NEED MORE INPUT GETTING MIXED MESSAGES??
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WHAT IS THE SNAP RING RANGE???FROM WHAT # TO WHAT#
- Thread starter MYNSX
- Start date
I "was" having a good day!!
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If so why do I have 43,000 miles and no problems??
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I guess you didn't look in the FAQ before asking, huh? As it states there:
"The snap ring failure is limited to transmission numbers J4A4-1003542 through J4A4-1005978. These transmission numbers are limited to 1991 and 1992 model year vehicles. You cannot determine whether a car is in the range for possible failure by VIN number, you MUST check the TRANSMISSION NUMBER."
If so why do I have 43,000 miles and no problems??
As also stated there:
"How many miles does it take to fail?
It varies widely."
Some failures are listed in the FAQ, and they occurred anywhere from 24K miles to 116K miles.
"The snap ring failure is limited to transmission numbers J4A4-1003542 through J4A4-1005978. These transmission numbers are limited to 1991 and 1992 model year vehicles. You cannot determine whether a car is in the range for possible failure by VIN number, you MUST check the TRANSMISSION NUMBER."
If so why do I have 43,000 miles and no problems??
As also stated there:
"How many miles does it take to fail?
It varies widely."
Some failures are listed in the FAQ, and they occurred anywhere from 24K miles to 116K miles.
I know its from the SCU#'S on the tranny.If you do a ring and pinion set and set of short gears is it possible to redo the snap-ring thing at that time at no cost???What do you think ??
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if you're doing the JDM gears/R&P mod, most of the LABOR associated with the SRF fix should already be there. There IS the cost of some additional casing parts, which your dealer MAY give you some help with if your car is in-range.
Best timing is when you need some clutch work done.
OK SO HOPEFULLY THE CLUTCH GOES FIRST.At 43,000 it might although there are no signs of wear yet.(original clutch)I was told to use the type -R ring and pinion set,is that correct?Further, as a complete package Clutch(type of clutch),Ring and pinion (type of clutch),Short gear set(which one if there are more than one) and what do you anticipate cost wise would be a good PACKAGE price???
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Clutch(type of clutch),Ring and pinion (type of clutch),Short gear set(which one if there are more than one)
Do you understand that the benefits of these changes (if any, and that's debatable) are relatively minor?
Do you understand that the benefits of these changes (if any, and that's debatable) are relatively minor?
or as option # 2 "if funds were an issue".To do stock clutch set and snap ring chang-out what do you anticipate as a good price???I need to concider both as this car will soon be "her" daily driver.
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The casting part(s) is the whole transmission housing.
1. not ALL transmissions in the snap-ring range are affected. This is because the tool used to make the snap-ring groove in the case went out of calibration slowly and was re-calibrated regularly, therefore there are several transmissions in the snap-ring range that are perfectly in spec and will never fail.
2. Replacing the “snap-ring” does not fix the problem, it just gives you a new snap ring to break again. The problem is with the groove in the transmission case and the CASE and snap-ring needs to be replaced.
DanO
Define relativly minor.I would imagine approx 455 gears or near that would significantly feel and perform 0-60 times.If these changes are that minor isn't it strange that many NSX'rs spend these thousands to do these mods.Unless I overheard this posted I probably wouldn't even concider it.
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I find the torque OFF THE LINE to leave me a little wanting.Unlike in my Cobra which is currently "her" daily driver,in which the urge to drag race is UNBEARABLE!!Although it does significantly have an effect on street racing at lights which can be a good thing.(MAYBE LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE!)What do you think??
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Ken,
I don't believe that changing to short gears and the R&P change (either the R or the 4.55) is a debatable "minor" change.
I think that it all depends on where the car is driven and what the owner is looking for. It sounds like this owner would indeed like the upgrade.
For most people who drive their NSX on the street the R&P change will make a noticeable change in standing start acceleration and rolling start acceleration.
Those same people who drive on the street will also appreciate and take advantage of the closer gear spacing between the 1-2 shift.
Granted, those who track their cars (road course and not drag strip) and who see speeds from 50-130 might not benefit but I think that most people who drive their cars on the street have said here that the short gears and the R&P change was one of the best changes they've made.
-Jim
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1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
Looking for 76-79 Honda Accords
[This message has been edited by Jimbo (edited 27 November 2001).]
I don't believe that changing to short gears and the R&P change (either the R or the 4.55) is a debatable "minor" change.
I think that it all depends on where the car is driven and what the owner is looking for. It sounds like this owner would indeed like the upgrade.
For most people who drive their NSX on the street the R&P change will make a noticeable change in standing start acceleration and rolling start acceleration.
Those same people who drive on the street will also appreciate and take advantage of the closer gear spacing between the 1-2 shift.
Granted, those who track their cars (road course and not drag strip) and who see speeds from 50-130 might not benefit but I think that most people who drive their cars on the street have said here that the short gears and the R&P change was one of the best changes they've made.
-Jim
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1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
Looking for 76-79 Honda Accords
[This message has been edited by Jimbo (edited 27 November 2001).]
- Joined
- 3 February 2000
- Messages
- 3,942
Not at no cost, but at considerable savings compared to going back and doing it later because you'll save about $800 in labor +/- depending on your particular shop. The parts cost is still several hundred to change out that part of the tranny case over and above any other work you would be doing.
Either gears or clutch work is a good time to do the tranny case from a labor-savings standpoint.
Whether you want to do change out the case is up to you. Nobody can tell you what to do there.
[This message has been edited by Lud (edited 27 November 2001).]
Being there are 43,000 miles on it it might indicate the tranny was un-effected.Although being that I like to do my long range driving in this car I'd be really freaked out if my tranny had a stroke going to California on some open road and become the victim of some redneck farmer asking me to "squeel like a pig".(My carry permit is nor reciprical from Arizona to Cali. so it stay's home)
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I must say I appreciate all of the different opinions from everyone .All of you are being very helpful.It's about time I make the time to attend some of the local meetings to A.Z.I have had a conflicting schedule to date because of my own commitments but look foward to a local meet.THANKS
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I don't believe that changing to short gears and the R&P change (either the R or the 4.55) is a debatable "minor" change.
Well, let's look at the numbers:
1/4 mile with the stock 5-speed and stock R&P: 13.67 seconds
1/4 mile with the short gears and 4.55 R&P: 13.38 seconds
0-150 with the stock 5-speed and stock R&P: 37.78 seconds
0-150 with the short gears and 4.55 R&P: 37.66 seconds
I consider an improvement of less than three tenths of a second to be relatively minor indeed.
However, if you're looking for the perception that you're accelerating a whole lot faster, even though you're not, then the gearing changes are fine. That's because you will be reaching redline quicker and needing to shift quicker. Of course, you reach redline quicker because you're shifting at a lower road speed, not because the car is accelerating faster.
For most people who drive their NSX on the street the R&P change will make a noticeable change in standing start acceleration and rolling start acceleration.
A "noticeable" change? No. A "perceived" change, one that is not borne out by the numbers? Yes.
If these changes are that minor isn't it strange that many NSX'rs spend these thousands to do these mods.
Lots of owners make changes that don't have much impact on actual performance, but make a significant impact on the perception of performance. Look at all the discussions we've had here about how different exhausts sound - which seems to be a much greater concern than which one adds more horsepower.
However, if you'd like to spend thousands and get ACTUAL improvement in your acceleration, rather than just a perceived improvement, spend your money on the BaschBoost supercharger instead of on gearing changes.
Well, let's look at the numbers:
1/4 mile with the stock 5-speed and stock R&P: 13.67 seconds
1/4 mile with the short gears and 4.55 R&P: 13.38 seconds
0-150 with the stock 5-speed and stock R&P: 37.78 seconds
0-150 with the short gears and 4.55 R&P: 37.66 seconds
I consider an improvement of less than three tenths of a second to be relatively minor indeed.
However, if you're looking for the perception that you're accelerating a whole lot faster, even though you're not, then the gearing changes are fine. That's because you will be reaching redline quicker and needing to shift quicker. Of course, you reach redline quicker because you're shifting at a lower road speed, not because the car is accelerating faster.
For most people who drive their NSX on the street the R&P change will make a noticeable change in standing start acceleration and rolling start acceleration.
A "noticeable" change? No. A "perceived" change, one that is not borne out by the numbers? Yes.
If these changes are that minor isn't it strange that many NSX'rs spend these thousands to do these mods.
Lots of owners make changes that don't have much impact on actual performance, but make a significant impact on the perception of performance. Look at all the discussions we've had here about how different exhausts sound - which seems to be a much greater concern than which one adds more horsepower.
However, if you'd like to spend thousands and get ACTUAL improvement in your acceleration, rather than just a perceived improvement, spend your money on the BaschBoost supercharger instead of on gearing changes.
- Joined
- 10 April 2001
- Messages
- 662
Whether you want to do change out the case is up to you. Nobody can tell you what to do there.
There's a lot of good information and advice from Mark Basch about the snap ring problem and what to do about it in this previous NSXprime topic:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000044.html
The difference between perceived benefits and the actual performance numbers with different gearing setups was previously discussed in this NSXprime topic:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001575.html
There's a lot of good information and advice from Mark Basch about the snap ring problem and what to do about it in this previous NSXprime topic:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000044.html
The difference between perceived benefits and the actual performance numbers with different gearing setups was previously discussed in this NSXprime topic:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001575.html
I already have the N.O.S. nitrous set-up money was an issue at the time being I paid for the car in cash.Although the adding of a supercharger and toning down on the NOS is something I've discussed with Mark Basch of course a solid clutch and tranny is in orderwhich to me would mean 10,000.00 out of pocket.
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Why do you think you need to replace the entire transmission and clutch? (I'm assuming that's what you're considering, based on the amount of money.)
That pre-sumtion is based on an original clutch the car having 43,000 miles on the clock and being within the snap-ring range no problem with failure just within the range and while your in there Mark would ya'...
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I would assume that 10,000 would be approximatly correct for...short gears/ring and pinion/snap-ring overhaul and super-charger..?????
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I would assume that 10,000 would be approximatly correct for...short gears/ring and pinion/snap-ring overhaul and super-charger..?????
Oh! I didn't realize you were including the cost of the supercharger (which I believe runs around $5-6K installed).
Regarding the snap ring situation, remember Mark Basch's advice (click on the link above from the Forums Nazi) - basically, don't worry about it unless you're doing the transmission work anyway. If you intend to spend the money on the gears - that's up to you - then I suppose it makes sense to do the snap ring thing. And $10K sounds about right, give or take a grand or so, including the SC.
Is your car in Arizona? Is Mark going to do the work on it?
Oh! I didn't realize you were including the cost of the supercharger (which I believe runs around $5-6K installed).
Regarding the snap ring situation, remember Mark Basch's advice (click on the link above from the Forums Nazi) - basically, don't worry about it unless you're doing the transmission work anyway. If you intend to spend the money on the gears - that's up to you - then I suppose it makes sense to do the snap ring thing. And $10K sounds about right, give or take a grand or so, including the SC.
Is your car in Arizona? Is Mark going to do the work on it?
Yes I live coast to coast NY to AZ.The NSX stays here and Mark is the one who does all my work.Other than an emergency of which Ive had none to date.Although my race mechanic and I installed the NOS kit.Also RM installed their DTM exhaust kit.
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I was wondering about the snap ring issue as well. I checked my transmission J4A4-1004490 my 92 na1 was manufactured in August of 1991. There is also an ink stamp with a green dot on top of my trans case under air box labels 4821...does this mean snap ring clearance issue was addressed?
