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Why put oil on Cam Holder bolt threads?

jwc

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Hi!

I'm in the middle of replacing the rear head Cam Plugs and am ready to start the re-assembly process after the lengthy dis-assembly process. I was just curious as to why the manual calls for applying oil to the 8mm Cam Holder bolt threads?

Thanks! :biggrin:

John C.

P.S. A big thanks to Larry B. for the tip on getting to the Cam Plugs without removing the Timing Belt (re: thread "Camshaft Plug Replacement"). Just for the record, I'm not going to use Hondabond on the Cam Plugs, just a little around the curved part of the Cam Holder for the Valve Cover Gasket. There was a discussion on this in the above-mentioned thread.
 
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I'm not the engine building expert, but I have read engine blueprinting and building books. Typically, when you want very consistent torquing and bolt stretch, you lubricate the threads so that you don't get the bolts sticking with friction (sticktion). You want this on the bottom end of course, and you also want it on the cam holders, as they function in a way similar to main bearings on the crank--locating the camshaft in position against the forces of the valve springs and the timing belt hanging off the end.
 

MCM

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I torque bolting at work to 3000+ lbs often.
Generally use a hytorc, or multiplier.
Torque specs specify the type of lubricant.
If it does not, its a dry torque.
What car gets anything torqued / tensioned to 3000 ft lbs?
Thanks!
 
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the friction between metal on metal could drastically effect actual torque value... I think I read some where that if you dont use oil when the application requires you to, you can actually be over 40% under the torque specs if you go dry.

also with that said, some applications require special lube such as arp head studs.

if you use oil instead of their special assembly lube you can be 30% under torque even with oil as lubricant.

congrats on the cam plugs, gota try it Larry's way next time if im not doing it with a TB job. :smile:

how long did the job take?

did you only change the cam plugs? also keep us posted on going dry.

regards

Rob:smile:
 

jwc

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Wow, thanks for all the great responses! Very interesting! I'm so glad I followed the manual, otherwise I would have probably significantly under-torqued the cam bolts. I also carefully followed the bolt tightening sequence laid out in the manual. I'm still putting everything back together - I'll probably finish after work tomorrow. I work very slowly and clean everything thoroughly as I go. I've been taking some photos too, so I'll post those soon. I'll add them to the Camshaft Plug Replacement thread to complement the existing photos.

John :cool:
 
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hey john,

awesome. if you need someone to host the pictures, i got a blazing fast server with lots of room and silly bandwidth :wink:
 
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exactly, was a hyd torq. drive,( hyd. porta-power, 1" hyd. drive ) 3" nut on a piece rail equipt, don't know of anything auto motive that reaches those numbers,( although honda crank pulley bolts can be pretty nasty for auto hardware)
 
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exactly, was a hyd torq. drive,( hyd. porta-power, 1" hyd. drive ) 3" nut on a piece rail equipt, don't know of anything auto motive that reaches those numbers,( although honda crank pulley bolts can be pretty nasty for auto hardware)

Honda Pulley is a monster.
 

jwc

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hey john,

awesome. if you need someone to host the pictures, i got a blazing fast server with lots of room and silly bandwidth :wink:

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the offer! I'll let you know if I need somewhere to park my pictures. :smile:

John
 
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