Today I was able to test the throttle body some more. The idle and WOT numbers are consistent. The only odd thing I noticed is that when the engine was fully warmed up and off, the % open fluctuated 0.4% without any input - at WOT the % open was consistent. I thought that must have been the...
As always, thanks for the reply and insights. I did clean the idle speed control screw and port. They did not look as bad as the one that Kaz posted in that other thread. The tip was discoloured, but there was no build up. I wiped it down with some carb cleaner. I used an inspection camera to...
I'm having a bit of a problem narrowing down an issue with my car that started a couple months ago. It’s a 97 NSX-T with a stock engine with an AP-X exhaust. There is no check engine light and no codes in the system. The symptoms that I have are a more than normal lumpy idle, intermittent...
You may find this thread and in particular this post from Kaz helpful for setting up the TPS after replacement
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/176554-Throttle-Position-Sensor-installation-issue?p=1739342&viewfull=1#post1739342
I am still experiencing the issue. Its not heat related as it happened once or twice now at the beginning of a trip.
After a whole day of checking connectors I found one rear wheel sensor that disconnected very easily and one bad wire on an O2 extension (wire just fell out of the connector). I...
The issue didn't occur on the way home even though there were some bumpy stretches during the drive. I'm not sure I'm at the arduino stage yet but I will look into it. Oddly, the issue did occur today - radio cut out, relays on the rear wall clicked, dash lights came on but the engine didn't...
Thanks again. I was talking through the issue with somebody here at work and realized that the events seem to happen only after the car has been run for a longer period of time (about an hour or more). I was wondering if any of those relays or switches that were mentioned might be more...
I believe this might be the case. I'm thinking that in most cases the interruption is so quick that I'm not seeing the effects. Just that one time as it was at night I could see that all the electrical components went out. I'll look at the ignition switch again. With the old part it had a very...
Thanks for the suggestion. I cleaned the ones that I hadn't done yet just in case. They didn't look bad but since it didn't cost anything I cleaned as many as I could find - even the smaller ones. I also checked the fuel pump resistor for bad connections but it seemed fine as well.
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Hey Primers. I'm looking for some advice/help on a problem I'm having with my car. The problem is sometimes the car cuts out when I hit a bump. Sometimes I get a ABS/TCS warning (both lights on), sometimes that is associated with a loss of electrical power (no radio) and sometimes a full loss...
I can tell you about my experience and it might help. I have a 1997 which I think was the first year with the immobilizer. I was only given the valet key when I purchased the car. When I took it to the Acura dealer they cut a new key for me but only then they realized that they needed the red...
Thank you for the replies and suggestions. I checked the solenoid wire and confirmed that it is seated well and is getting 12V when cranking. When the car wasn't starting I did hear the solenoid click every time I tried to crank the engine. At this point I think I will look into getting the...
Just a quick update from last night. The car started each and every time I tried so I wasn't able to test anything under a failed state. I measured the voltage at the engine compartment per Frank's suggestion and got 12.5V. When I cranked the engine the voltage dropped to 10V momentarily and...
Larry B - Thanks for the idea. I checked the battery terminals. There is no movement on either of them.
ftuhy - it doesn't crank. The dash lights come on, the headlights work fine, I can hear the fuel pump prime, I can hear the starter pinion click into place and return but that's it...
Thanks for the replies. I did get the battery tested and the test said it was good. I am going to try to jump start the car from the battery location (I used the engine location the first time) to make sure there isn't a problem between it and the starter. If that works then I'll replace the...
I’m looking for either a confirmation of my diagnosis to my car problem or some further direction on what to look at before I start buying parts. I tried to perform all the tests (from Prime) that I could based on my skill and available tools. The car is a 97, 6spd with 95K kms.
The short...
I'm not sure if you have seen this write up, but it helped me (all credit to the author).
http://nsxe-repair.com/DS-removal.html (all credit to the author)
I don't recall there being clips - except for the triangle pieces. I do recall having a hard time pulling the panel out of the top of...
I grabbed and electronic copy here a while ago - http://www.manuals.ws/files/list/brand/8/cat/2/Automobile.htm. Not exactly a scanned copy but you might be able to clean it up and print it out - it will need the cover page.
Well, after 2.5 years (that's how long I have owned the car) trying to troubleshoot a horrible throttle response it looks like Kaz solved it. I can't thank you enough for the help Kaz. Actually, thank you to everyone that jumped in to help. I was quite literally days away from getting rid of...
Kaz - wow, thank you for detailed reply. Yes, hindsight being 20-20 I probably should have left this one to the experts.
Here is where I am at currently:
Engine not running:
Vref = 5.002v
Closed = 0.495v; 9.4% TH (from OBD)
Open = 4.250v; 84.7% TH (from OBD)
Your comment about the idle is...
I finally got around to getting a scan tool and doing some testing. The readings I get are interesting.
With the voltages set as indicated in an above post - 0.45v closed and 4.2v WOT the scan tool showed 7% throttle at closed and 84% throttle at WOT with a cold engine. With a warm engine I...
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