And there she goes......

[arista5]

he has since edited out any for sale content,but in one of the threads he claimed to be having issues with the car,do we know specificly what those were?

From what i have been reading I think a toasted clutch

 

[Oyagi]

From what i have been reading I think a toasted clutch

Chicks dig burnouts.

 

[ffffanman]

OMG, I should have just bought it.
Trev

 

[nsx300]

it also said for 60k when he bought it for 50k, he was probably trying to make a profit but then got busted doing it and is now saying he is keeping it.

 

[swbatte]

It's all so very clear to me now.

 

[type-j]

it also said for 60k when he bought it for 50k, he was probably trying to make a profit but then got busted doing it and is now saying he is keeping it.

Where does it say that??? Please read all threads and educate yourself before u make stupid comments. I've been through enough with this car so far, so please everyone relax! seriously.

 

[BioBanker]

Lets just help Shawn figure out the best way to get the clutch problem worked out (new clutch? replace the disc in the stock clutch if it needs?) so that he can move on and be a super happy NSX owner, just like we all are/have been.

He bought the car with the best of intentions and once the clutch is worked out I hope that he will be back on track. He didnt buy the car with any intention of flipping it.

 

[lithiumus]

Maybe we can help you out here. As far as I know, Dean's car was in fantastic condition. The clutch is an RPS clutch which is the same as mine and is rated at over 400lbs of torque so it's a perfect match for the power and should last a long long time.

Point us to a post detailing some of the issues and we can try to get things sorted out right.

 

[BioBanker]

Garrick - the RPS clutch really looks like it is done. The issue is now that the car was stranded at a red and needed to be flat bedded to the dealer.

AFAIK Shawn is trying to decide if he should put the stock clutch back in (with a new disc? where is the best place to get the disc from?) or pick up an SOS sport clutch.

There's a big difference in cost between the two.

 

[Oyagi]

Get another RPS. The stock clutch is just a cheap solution for now (unless he plans to flip it, in which case it'll be someone else's problem).

 

[lithiumus]

Get another RPS. The stock clutch is just a cheap solution for now (unless he plans to flip it, in which case it'll be someone else's problem).

The RPS clutch is a fantastic clutch but the pressure plate is super strong and adds a lot of clutch pedal pressure. Until you get used to it, it's not easy minimize the wear on the clutch as Chris prescribes...

So I would recommend against the RPS clutch. The SOS clutch is supposed to be less pressure than the RPS but is still more pressure than OEM. I imagine that Chris specifically placed the below instructions with the clutch specifically due to premature wear...

Quoted from Chris... the last point is particularly important... I never really add any kind of power for acceleration until my clutch foot is completely released and clutch fully engaged...

The clutch disc liner for the full face street disc is very similar to the OEM liner. The clutch should last as long or longer than a factory clutch. However, the life of the clutch disc, as with any clutch - OEM or aftermarket, is largely dependent on how it is driven. Here's an excerpt from our installation guide that details this:

These tips are provided to maximize the life of your clutch.

• Do not depress the clutch for extended periods while the engine is running such as at stop lights. Shift the transmission into neutral, depress clutch, and remove your foot from the pedal.
• Do not ride the clutch pedal with your foot while the car is being driven.
• The majority of most clutch wear occurs only when the clutch pedal is pressed or depressed switching gears – regardless of how fast or aggressive the car is being driven. Because of this, you should take care with lighter clutch and flywheel assemblies to not feather the clutch heavily, and to not allow the engine speed to drop considerably from shifting slowly (requiring the clutch to take up the difference between the engine and transmission speed).
• Try to minimize how much you feather the clutch starting from a stop. This is the time that all clutches see the majority of wear. Get into the habit of depressing the gas pedal slightly to get engine momentum and releasing the clutch pedal as quickly as possible while still maintaining smooth engagement to minimize wear.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1423689&postcount=20

 

[aznblitzzzz]

wow the cost of the stock clutch assembly from acura is $3400 not including labor to install it either?

 

[Oyagi]

Welcome to the wonderful world of exotic car ownership!

I love my RPS. You get used to it very quickly, in fact the only time I find it stiff is when I've driven another car for an appreciable amount of time, then getting back to my NSX feels almost like I'm driving a tank!

 

[Joy2Drive]

$3400 seems a bit steep. What's the split on parts and labor? I am just glad we have negotiated club discounts in the GTA.

You are probably better off with the SOS Sport Clutch which can easily handle the added torque of the SC. You just need to adjust on the engagement or this won't last you very long either. Definitely read Lithiumus' post above.

It's funny Garrick also commeted on how soft my OE clutch felt comparing to his RPS, it also took him some driving to adjust for the catch. I don't think I would enjoy or can adjust well to a heavy clutch. I recall driving my friend's 135 with dinan stage 2 (450 rwhp), and I found it difficult to handle, which tells me I am best to stay within my limits.

 

[Tony Montoya]

The OEM clutch is $3400 for the part only, the labour is extra? How much is the OEM clutch in the USA? The Acura dealer has been good to me but the parts are very expensive and have not been adjusted from when the CDN dollar was worth .75 US dollars.

 

[Bram]

Please confirm if you still need to buy a fly wheel, because, the flywheel is the Expensive part of the 97-05 clutch kits, so keep that in mind.

The actually 97-05 clutch kit is cheap without the flywheel.

Bram

 

[lithiumus]

I should correct my post as the RPS clutches that I own was one of the earlier models when RPS had just completed developing it. Dave and John C bought it afterwards but in general, the pressure was the same.

Currently, RPS only seems to have a twin disc clutch that is able to hold 700+ pounds of torque at OEM pedal pressure which is $2,400. The SOS clutch with flywheel is $1,700.

Shawn, do me a favor, when they pull the RPS clutch out, can you have the mechanic inspect it and save the core parts? I'd be interested in the core in case my clutch ever needs something since RPS isn't making these any more...

Good choice on the SOS. Only 5% more pedal pressure which is great.