Clutches

[lithiumus]

I've got the RPS Max series with the Cyn-R-G segmented flywheel. I believe it's tested to 400-600 lbs of torque. It's more affordable as I paid approx. $2,600 installed. My car is naturally aspirated but my clutch was completely worn out and I figured if I did any mods SC or turbo, my clutch would not need upgrading.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46841

Check out www.turboclutch.com

 

[sjs]

I'm running a Tilton 3 plate Carbon-Carbon clutch. ... I've got plenty of pictures of the clutch and installation on my website www.mscperformance.com

Yikes! Not exactly bolt-on is it? How much did you need to fabricate?

 

[Mark911]

Yikes! Not exactly bolt-on is it? How much did you need to fabricate?

It's not too bad. The kit has a few glitches that I fixed. The biggest issue is that the stock master cylinder will not work. I found out the HARD way as I spent hours bleeding the system because the clutch would not disengage. I finally drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing to actually watch the slave cylinder move. It moved, but not nearly enough. So I altered the geometry of the stock master cylinder/pedal assembly to get more throw. It worked, but the actuator rod was at a bad angle and the thrust load would probably cause the master cylinder to fail. So I simply replaced the stock MS with a Willwood 3/4 inch. An adapter here and a rod mod there and it was a done deal. Tilton warns about over-throw so you got to be a bit careful. Mark

 

[kaiser-nsx]

I previously installed ACT HD00- Heavy duty with modified stock disc. It was great for daily driving. Smooth, no chatter, quick grabs. After it was broken in it was great...

 

[Sig]

It's not too bad. The kit has a few glitches that I fixed. The biggest issue is that the stock master cylinder will not work. I found out the HARD way as I spent hours bleeding the system because the clutch would not disengage. I finally drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing to actually watch the slave cylinder move. It moved, but not nearly enough. So I altered the geometry of the stock master cylinder/pedal assembly to get more throw. It worked, but the actuator rod was at a bad angle and the thrust load would probably cause the master cylinder to fail. So I simply replaced the stock MS with a Willwood 3/4 inch. An adapter here and a rod mod there and it was a done deal. Tilton warns about over-throw so you got to be a bit careful. Mark

Mark911 = DIY KING

Hear that? That's the sound of me bowing down :biggrin:

 

[Turbo NSX]

I have had the clutchmaster stage 4 in my car for about 6 months now. I love it. It does take some getting used to (like a day or two) but I think that is expected anytime you change to a different clutch. The pedal has the same feel as stock. The clutch does act like an on/off switch and holds super strong. There is a little chatter if you are not paying attention to what you are doing, generally this happens when I am stuck in LA traffic and I cannot really take the clutch out all the way, because its time to stop again. I think I paid around $1500(probably less) for the clutch with my core. I will definately buy the same clutch when I have to replace this one.

 

[Andrie Hartanto]

I test drove the Tilton on Marks car over the weekend around the paddock. I thought it is stiffer feel than Comptech PG2. Kip Olson also uses Tilton carbon clutch and said it is lighter pressure than his old Comptech PG2. I tend to trust him as he felt it back to back, as I was going from memory. That being said, Kip Olson was able to use the stock Master Cylinder.

We also have Tilton carbon clutch for our race car, but the car still in construction.

 

[the nsxnut]

For us mere mortals driving street/track cars...

The OE twin disc (95 and older) is pretty damn robust. I ran my 400+ fwhp BBSC with it for 10,000 miles before it was time to replace. At that point, the clutch had over 50,000 miles on it. I replaced it with the Centerforce rebuild version of the OE twin disc, same surface area, upgraded friction material, and had great engagement and NO chatter, clean shifting, but then a problem developed after another 7 or 8 thousand miles... the OE clutch hubs have damper springs (like most street clutches). The retainer clips (heavy gauge steel) on the damper springs broke from the shock loads of redline shifting on track (BBSC application, 400+fwhp), and caused a number of problems. It was so subtle (the broken retainer) that it can't be seen with a cursory inspection, and you can still shift the car if you take it easy; the problem is apparent only under high-stress redline shifting...
anyway, it has finally been resolved, (rebuild the rebuild :wink: ), and my CF OE twin disc is going back in for additional bashing....

High HP can cause some special circumstances, but for normal wear and tear, it's really all about HOW you use the clutch, not which clutch you use...

Be glad you're not driving a Ferrari, or a Porsche, when it comes to clutch replacement... :wink: