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Honcho's NSX-R Track Weapon Build Project

Congratulations on the new car!

Thanks for the recognition and kind words. It was disappointing for me to see a vendor here blatantly rip off the layout without any acknowledgement, insult me for using a cheaper (?) prop valve, and then sell the ABS delete kit for $500+.

Anyways, I highly recommend you upgrade to the later style NSX ABS unit or use the S2000 system that [MENTION=24013]syndicate[/MENTION] has developed. After all, it is ultimately safer and an investment in the car, whereas the ABS delete is appealing for just a few hardcore folks like us.

If you do go through with the ABS delete, the reason why I switched from the 45 degree double-flared OEM style to the 37 degree AN style is the following: From my understanding comparing the two, the Air Force/Navy (AN) 37 degree flare (and SAE/ISO 37 degree flares) were developed to be a reliable connection method when the fitting might be taken apart and reconnected occasionally. It's also easier to make "in the field" if necessary. The 45 degree double flare on most (all?) OEM car brakes is because it is an extremely reliable connection if you don't ever plan on touching it. Obviously, that's not exactly the case since mechanics redo these connections a lot of times. While car brakes and airplane hydraulics both serve very important safety functions, I think the airplane hydraulics might carry a bit more risk. As they use the AN style, that was good enough for me. That might help to address your weakness concern vs. OEM.

Whether you go with AN or double-flare, just practice making straight tubing cuts, lightly deburring the edges before flaring, and check the contact seating areas after you make the flare and connections. Honestly, unless you're using stainless tubing, you don't need a bender. Just bend by hand or wrap it over various pipe diameters lying around. Just don't make too tight of a bend radius where you feel it suddenly yield on you or kink the tubing (obviously). Also, don't make a bend, try to straighten it if you mess up, and then rebend. It should only be bent once to maintain strength (ideally).

My $0.02 :smile:

Dave, your threads and builds have been an inspiration to me since I had the black car. Honestly, yours is one of the voices I respect the most on Prime. Which is why I'm surprised by your advice! I did the full 01+ ABS conversion on the black car and loved it. But, that car was a daily driver including in winter. For safety, then, ABS was a must for me, as was the ancient TCS system, both of which saved the car on several occasions in the snow. One place where the modern ABS never came into play for me was the track. I'm dating myself, but my first car was a 1983 Mazda RX-7. My junior year of high school, I bought it for $500 not running and rebuilt the carb- ran perfectly after that. :D Soon after acquiring the car, I started tracking and autocrossing it. My racing instruction at the time taught "threshold braking," where you brake progressively harder and later each lap to find the limit of traction and learn to feel the point just before lockup. Once you figure it out, you just brake at that limit and you never slide. The RX-7 certainly did not have anything like ABS! So, I learned to threshold brake. My racing instruction appears to be like riding a bike because, in almost 5 years of tracking the black car, I never once got into ABS.

Combine the above with the fact that the Imola S Zero will be a sunny day, track and car show car- basically the complete opposite of the black car- I doubt it will ever see even rain! Thus, I'm not sure if the funds earmarked for the ABS upgrade (whether OEM or Syndicate S2000) are best dedicated there, or spent somewhere else that may deliver more enjoyment out of the car. Because of my profession, I have the funds to do everything OEM and new on this project. But, because of my marriage and the compromises that go with it, I have agreed to severely limit the budget and stage the build process over years. Rather than get mad, I've decided to embrace the challenge! It adds an element of DIY and creativity to the project. I can delete the ABS entirely for about $100 worth of parts and make it look like an OEM option from Honda, thanks to your fantastic delete build...

I would have thought that the manual conversion would have been first on the list :smile:

As noted above, I had to make compromises. Because of the scarcity of OEM Type-S parts and bits, I decided that the color and cosmetic change should be Stage 1, so that I can grab the badges and all of the other little Honda bits that might not be available in a few years. There will always be hundreds of wrecked NSXs that I can pirate all of the manual shift parts from, so the time pressure is less. Only potential issue is the 6-speed availability, but Honda is still making them to order, though there is a 12-month wait. Makes sense considering the 2005 model year likely will continue to be supported until 2025. Worst case is I grab a 5-speed and put a ATS carbon 4.4 LSD in it. So, lots of options for the manual conversion that will remain so for a while.

Honcho,
If you want a CF delete panel I have one you can have. Just PM me. It is a trapezoid shaped cover that is some no-name (maybe Dali?) piece.

The Fujitsobo exhaust I got from you is still awesome, and has a lot more blueing now. I also found ti test pipes which I haven't tried yet.

Last thing I tried the ABS delete and didn't like it.. I flat spotted some tires on the track and since went to a NA2 ABS and haven't looked back. FWIW.

I'll PM you about the panel. The OEM Type-S Zero part is $120, so this is a good example of the issue described above. I can say "yeah honey, but look, I was able to save $120 by using an aftermarket panel from a friend- remember that guy who bought my titanium exhaust?- and just painting it Honda Graphite Gray." :D Is it dimensionally the same as the OEM panel?

So happy to hear about your experience with the Fujitsubo- I continue to believe it is simply the best exhaust ever made for the NSX, and so mad that I let my spare one go!! lol. Now, I'm going to have to import another one! (part of Stage 2 sadly...)

As for the ABS, yeah that is my fear- ruining a good set of tires at the track- but in a recent convo with my dad (who was also one of my first track instructors), he made a good point when he asked whether I had ever activated ABS in the old NSX on the track and his eye roll when I said no and mini-tirade about how kids these days are using computers to make up for their lack of driving ability (and subtly bashing my GT-R). He finished with "well at least you remember how to threshold brake." For reference, he tracks his 1992 Miata with a Ford 5.0 V8...and no ABS. I've driven that car...scary is a word I would use. :D Still, the Syndicate S2000 option is tempting...
 
As for the ABS, yeah that is my fear- ruining a good set of tires at the track- but in a recent convo with my dad (who was also one of my first track instructors), he made a good point when he asked whether I had ever activated ABS in the old NSX on the track and his eye roll when I said no and mini-tirade about how kids these days are using computers to make up for their lack of driving ability (and subtly bashing my GT-R). He finished with "well at least you remember how to threshold brake." For reference, he tracks his 1992 Miata with a Ford 5.0 V8...and no ABS. I've driven that car...scary is a word I would use. :D Still, the Syndicate S2000 option is tempting...

For your intended use and skill level, then yes, I'd say the ABS delete should work great!

I agree on the threshold braking. For the first time in many, many years, I locked up the front drivers tire intentionally to test my (somewhat) rusty skills back in March with an old set of tires. That was also shortly after I finished winter driving the car:

View attachment 154999

It hasn't had ABS, TCS, stereo, and A/C for almost nine years now. I use the no fog stuff on the windshield interior for safe colder driving and it works fine. As I get older I think about adding the A/C back in more and more. :smile: However, I can't because I have aluminum air tanks for the lift system mounted where the condensors used to be.
 
For your intended use and skill level, then yes, I'd say the ABS delete should work great!

I agree on the threshold braking. For the first time in many, many years, I locked up the front drivers tire intentionally to test my (somewhat) rusty skills back in March with an old set of tires.

Also remember that I'm not chasing lap times anymore. As I get older, the allure is just not there. Instead, tracking now will be to just enjoy the car in its natural element. I'm not planning on dive-bombing corners like Gan-San- probably driving 7/10 to 8/10 instead. Even less chance of ABS becoming involved if I am braking early and light. I'm even debating whether to run R-comps or just stick with sport tires. Who cares if they are 2 sec per lap slower? Considering your AN fittings have lasted 9 years without issue, I'm going to do that too. I'm a little worried about flaring the front hard lines while still on the car.
 
I hear ya. It's the sudden panic stop on public roads is what concerns me these days though. I had Allstate insurance the time I did the ABS delete and I remember asking them to remove ABS as a discount from my policy. They couldn't (apparently those features are linked to the VINs), so I made sure it was documented in my file in case I had a claim later. You know, those lawyers are pretty sharp and I wanted to make sure I tried to do the right thing! :wink:
 
Delivery 01

A few posts back, [MENTION=4282]docjohn[/MENTION] mentioned that I am not some random dreamer. He's right. :D Look what happened while I was at work this morning.

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delivery 2.jpg

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Looks like we've got a bad exhaust hanger...

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The kids were very excited, apparently. Mrs. Honcho took them for a drive around the block.

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Hello 317, welcome to Honcho's place.
 
I like the rear glass decal collection.:biggrin:
 
Guys I'm going to close this thread and start a new one now that the car is here, since I can't re-name it.
 
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