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Snap Ring (Transmission) Broke Today - Advice Appreciated

Two hats in this post. First, as forum admin, some folks need to chill right out and drop the personal issues before taking this thread any further.

Now, as one owner to another, let's talk about dealers and service and business.

Dealers make a lot of money on service. In fact it's not rare for a dealer to make as much or more on parts and service as on car sales. While some dealers may prefer not to do NSX service, Davis and other major NSX service shops certainly make good money at it because they have a strong reputation and as a result they have a steady stream of NSX customers. Davis has enough business that Bernie spends most of his time doing NSX work. While it's great to have that resource available, it's not a charity. They make money and deserve to do so.

Dealers (and independent shops) make money two ways on the service side: parts and labor. If you buy a clutch from the dealer and have them install it, they make some margin on the parts and some more on the labor. If you buy your clutch elsewhere they are only getting the labor. This means the job is less profitable for them. This means if they have strong demand for their service it is less desireable for them to do this job - they could be doing a job where they make money on both the parts and the labor.

I know in the past Davis has declined to install parts bought elsewhere. I'm not sure if that is still their policy, but it is certainly their right. Assuming you have given the full story, it sounds to me like when you asked about installing this clutch and specified labor only (meaning you were going to provide parts) they probably padded their labor estimate a bit. This was probably for one or both of the following reasons: 1) Cover their butt for the added unknowns they've run into before when a customer brings in a box with some clutch they've never seen before, no instructions and maybe even missing parts or a problem with the part and 2) To help make up for the money they are losing on the job by you buying your parts elsewhere.

The issue of using book labor can be debated, but basically it sounds like Davis is quoting a job price, not giving an hourly estimate. In the contracting / consulting world there are two main ways to work: Hourly (time and materials) or lump sum (fixed fee for the job). If they want to work that way -- basically going by their own "book rate" based on their experience doing this kind of work with customer-supplied parts, I don't see a problem with it, they are both legitimate ways of doing business.

Anyway I certainly don't think there is anything wrong with being an informed customer or understanding what you are paying for. And for most people trust is earned, not assumed. The good news is that many NSX owners have gone before you and Davis has earned the trust of the NSX community. But you are right, in general if you never ask for a cost breakdown that you can understand you're going to get ripped off left and right in all aspects of your life.

However if you understand how the business works, you will understand better why most shops do not like to deal with people who supply their own parts (usually more hassle, less profit), and why you may occasionally pay more in labor if you do supply your own parts. This can be a touchy issue though and really I think a better solution would be to publish a higher labor rate for customers who provide their own parts. As a customer I recognize the additional hassle and lost profit of customer supplied parts, but there are also times I would prefer to supply my own parts even if it means I'm paying more for labor to install them.... mainly because I have aftermarket parts on my car that are simply not available through the shop's regular parts channels.

I will tell you this: I would GLADLY pay a lot of money for someone with Bernie's experience to work on my car. You are lucky to have an experienced NSX mechanic nearby. Many of us do not have a good NSX mechanic for hundreds of miles around. On the up side I've learned a bit about the NSX as a result....
 
Ok I'm calm - I'll let the whole thing go. Sorry Ken & anyone who was offended with my "lack or respect."

May we go back to the original concern or should I say back to the topic.

Hopefully this thread will be usefull to members that have the same problem I am having!!!

My game plan - taking the car to DAVIS ACURA so that Bernie can work on it. Use their parts with the exception of a SPEC Stage 2 clutch. I'm towing in the car this weekend. Maybe I'll take some pictures for you guys. I'm ready to spend $3000 all together. Ouch!
 
When you think about it 2 grand is not a lot of money to do this much work. Does the motor have to come out of the car to get to the transmission or do they drop the transmission out of the bottom of the car?

On another note:
First I would like to say I really like my BMW service center.
I recently called the BMW dealer to have all the brakes changed on my X-5. The dealership is a hour drive away and I wanted to be sure they had the parts before I dropped the vehicle off.
I called ahead and asked for an estimate. Here is how it read,

Front brake pads parts....................................................106.70
Front brake sensor............................................................18.26
Front brake time to replace..1.2hours book rate@72/hr....86.40
rear brake pads.................................................................88.55
rear brake sensor..............................................................18.26
Time to replace rear pads..1.2@72/hr................................86.40
Two front [email protected] each.........................................205.70
two rear rotors @ 65.73 each......................................... 131.46
Time to replace rotors @72/hour......................................187.20
Total..........928.93
Tax.............74.31
Grand Total......1003.24

SO...I measure the rotors and see that in fact they are well within BMW's specs and do not need to be replaced. I call the service center back. The service manager informs me that BMW always replaces the rotors regardless of how the measure out.

I had nothing to do this week end so I pulled the X-5 in the garage and did the job myself.
Tools required:
lug wrench
floor jack
5/8 socket
1/2 drive ratchet
1/2 drive extension
pliers
WD-40
Gloves
Factory BMW parts from Bavarian autosports:
Front brake pads........................................59.95
front sensor................................................15.95
rear brake pads..........................................54.95
rear sensor.................................................15.95
shipping......................................................13.95
total.......160.75
TOTAL time for all 4 corners 58 minutes 38 seconds and I was not rushing the job either. So it seems that book time can sometimes be greater than actual time spent doing the job.

PS. The above time does not include racing up and down the side road burning in the pads, which was the best part of the job IMO.
:D :D :D :D :D
 
Sounds like you made out well. For something simple as brakes I could handle myself & actually enjoy doing the work to some extent.

Its more like 3 grand steveny.

But for transmission - I look at the repair manual and its overwelming. The engine doesn't need to come out. As far as removing and replaceing the transmission - book rate calls for 4.5 hours. Which is 72/hour x 4.5 = $324. But according to the service rep its going to be about $700 + $300 for the clutch. As some of prime members stated - their may be complications & sometimes jobs take long then expected, ect ect.
 
nsxexotic
But for transmission - I look at the repair manual and its overwelming. The engine doesn't need to come out. As far as removing and replaceing the transmission - book rate calls for 4.5 hours. Which is 72/hour x 4.5 = $324. But according to the service rep its going to be about $700 + $300 for the clutch. As some of prime members stated - their may be complications & sometimes jobs take long then expected, ect ect.

The book calls for 4.5 hours to Remove and reinstall the trany, but the repair to the upper case still needs to be done the TSB for the snap ring calls for 7 hours and my dealer said that was for a tech that does it all the time, snap ring repair does not fall in that catagory.

Dave
 
A point or two

No, I am NOT the only person in the U.S. who can do this job.

Yes, I have built more than ANYONE in the U.S., unless someone else has done 80 or so.

No- You should NEVER replace just the snap ring, so a 900.00 repair seems most unlikely.

Yes, Barnman is qualified to do this job, without a doubt, though I disagree about the Honda remark only because of the increase power demand leaving less room for improper shim measurements- the number cause of post overhaul failure DTR.

No, you don't send me the whole car, just the tranny- but I can't do it for about 10 weeks right now.

Yes short gears, R/P etc should be done now, if you're in the market, otherwise your total cost should be-

A Case half, 550. to 750 depending where you shop.
A snap ring- 5.50
5 Bearings, avg 50. each (some more. some less)
Second gear synchro is about 150., 1,3,4,and 5 are 45-50. ea.

MAXIMIM labor including r&r and clutch should be 12 hrs X (your local labor rate)

JMO,
Good Luck,
MB
 
steveny said:
Does the motor have to come out of the car to get to the transmission or do they drop the transmission out of the bottom of the car?

You drop the tranny.
 
I understand - thank you for your post.

Like NSXTech said its 12 hours. therefore 12 x $72 (hourly rate).
$864 + $800 for the uppercase + 1100 if I were to get the OEM clutch. Guess I'll be dishing out about $2754

I've been wanting a new clutch. My car has already rolled past 80,000 miles on the original clutch. I'm happy!
 
For the US it is late 1991 and 1992 production.

i.e. My car is 1991, #2812 out of 3163, late in the 1991 run, and it is in the range.

HTH,
LarryB
 
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Gerard van Santen said:
I thought the snap ring range wasn't for NSX's from 1991 but for NSX's from 1992 and/or 1993?

Snap ring range is late '91 to early '92 models. Checking the tranny is the absolute way to find out. My '91 #0991 doesn't fall in the range. (I like my model year being equal to the last digits in my VIN number. :))
 
I'd consider the house clutch(AM) that Davis Acura sells if I were you.
Miled, a well known member of the NSXCA, has one and loves it.
In case you don't know this dealership has racing NSX experience.
 
steveny said:
Factory BMW parts from Bavarian autosports:
Front brake pads........................................59.95
front sensor................................................15.95
rear brake pads..........................................54.95
rear sensor.................................................15.95
What are those sensors? Are those something comparable to the squeaker tab that's a part of the stock Honda brake pads, but a separate part on the BMW pads? Or something else?

Originally posted by nsxexotic
I know Honda Manual Fluid is the best for our cars! Well I'm pretty sure... how does REDLINE MT Fluid compare?
Redline makes two manual transmission fluids - MTL, which is comparable in viscosity to 10W30 motor oil, and MT-90, which is comparable to 10W40. In my NSX, I have tried Honda MTF, synthetic 10W30 motor oil, and Redline MTL. I did not notice any difference among the three. I now stick with the Honda MTF.

Originally posted by Larry Bastanza
For the US it is late 1991 and 1992 production.

i.e. My car is 1991, #2812 out of 3163, late in the 1991 run, and it is in the range.
Originally posted by Vytas
Snap ring range is late '91 to early '92 models. Checking the tranny is the absolute way to find out. My '91 #0991 doesn't fall in the range.
The transmissions in the snap ring range started showing up in '91 model year NSXs for the U.S. market with VINs ending around MT002500. (The sequence for that year ended somewhere around MT003220, I believe.) This translation does not work for other markets (e.g. Canada) which use their own VIN sequence.

As Vytas notes, you have to check the transmission number to make absolutely sure, since it's possible that a transmission was replaced with a snap ring one at some point. But any '91 NSX with a VIN significantly less than MT002500 almost certainly left Tochigi with a transmission that was not in snap ring range.
 
nsxtasy said:
What are those sensors? Are those something comparable to the squeaker tab that's a part of the stock Honda brake pads, but a separate part on the BMW pads? Or something else?


They are metal contact encased in plastic with wire leads that plug into the CPU. When the pads wear down enough to wear away the plastic the metal makes contact with the rotor and sets off the "change brake pad" light.
Pretty cool in theory, however my front sensor was worn to the metal and there was no light on.
I am really glad I did this brake job myself, not only for the savings but it was a great opportunity to see how well the vehicle is engineered. BMW really puts a lot of effort into the X-5.
 
dnyhof said:
Even $72.00/hr labor is very fair, who do I have to strangle in my area to get that rate?
If that's how much Davis is charging for Bernie's time, that's a steal.

Here are typical rates around the Midwest, where most things (other than the New York Times) generally cost less than along the East Coast:

Independent mechanic, Chicago area: $72/hour
Acura dealer, Milwaukee area: $80/hour
Acura dealer, Chicago area: $90/hour
Acura dealer, St. Louis area: $100/hour
 
robr said:
what should be done? it's very simple and it's the way I work when I'm doing consulting work..... you pay for the hours that are worked.

If you are comparing the two, mechanical repair work and consultation services and think they should be billed the same way it's no wonder you feel frustrated.
 
Some industries work almost exclusively on a T&M basis, billing actual time and materials to the client. Sometimes the work is done with an estimate, but there is no commitment that that will ultimately be the price of the job.

Some industries work almost exclusively on a fixed price basis, in which a price quote is given beforehand, and that's how much the job will cost, regardless of how long it will take.

In some industries, vendors are willing to provide estimates and do work on either basis. In such cases, the fixed price bid usually starts out higher, because it is padded to cover unexpected contingencies. But it may or may not ultimately be higher.

In most cases, there is no law that says that work must be done on one basis or the other. You're welcome to ask a vendor, including your mechanic, whether he would be willing to charge you based on his actual time, rather than the book time. He might refuse, or he might accept it. And there's no guarantee that one way will always cost you less, or will always cost you more. In general, doing arrangements on a T&M basis means that the customer absorbs more of the risk if things don't go smoothly, and you have no recourse if the price comes out higher than initially estimated. If you and your vendor are comfortable with that, go for it.

robr said:
(ken is right that I have a good one in the area, but I found them on my own
If you are referring to Mechanics Direct Modifiers, they have been advertising in NSX Driver and here on NSXprime, and offer discounts on performance mods to members of the NSX Club of America, so those are three ways that NSX members in the Boston area might find out about them...

Originally posted by kpond
I have no doubt that they know him too. They know he ia a virtual expert on his car and he has probablt taught them a thing or two about the NSX over the last years. He'd be the last guy to be treated poorly.
This scurrilous claim, that I get some sort of "special treatment" because of my knowledge of the NSX, is sheer nonsense. I pay the same rates as other customers and get the same treatment (including the same discounts and coupon specials that some dealers reserve for their repeat customers). And if I thought for a second that I were getting better service than most other folks, I would never recommend such a facility to others. Shame on you, Kendall, for attacking my own personal integrity by making such an outlandish and unfounded allegation.

In fact, I could name another "famous" person here on NSXprime, whose knowledge about the car (and contributions to our community) are legendary; his local Acura dealer (the only one for hundreds of miles) has consistently provided service at a horrendous level. He faces the same situation as I do, in that his dealer treats him the same way as all their other customers. Unfortunately, his dealer treats everyone miserably.
 
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I don't think you should phone a tech at work and expect them to drop what they are doing to discuss your repair questions.
Flat bed the car to Davis Acura and let them take care of it.
 
When I had a wheel alignment done on my Supra it took the dealer 2 hours but they only charged me for one. They said they can't charge people more than one hour,even though most cars take longer than that.
Charging by the book might be a scam, I'm not sure really.
 
Maybe you are in over your head with this kind of car. No one likes or needs to spend that kind of money, but if it takes 2 pages of replies to convince you then this might not be your kind of car.
Armando
 
nsxexotic said:
Acura dealer, St. Louis area: $100/hour
holy cow!

Yeah and I don't think they do a great job either. They have misdiagnosed me a couple of times already. I stopped taking mine there because of that and their outrageous prices.
 
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