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1st dyno pulls.
- Thread starter 01blacks4
- Start date
Nice numbers, any details in regards to the setup?
thanks guys, yeah AEM for tuning...not sure yet on the flutter? not even sure if its an issue...if you look at the ghraph the scale is much lower that most. i think it is in 2 LBS increments....if it was say 20-30 pound increments it would show as "smooth" like you are thinking.
the setup has a built bottom end, sleaved w/ low comp pistons..
turbonetics 62-1 turbo, this was picked as i wanted the lowend tq, not so worried about high end power... 12.5 pounds boost
after its all done and some miles on it i may swap out for a BIG turbo for a dyno pull or two
try and be like everyone else and hit 700hp:biggrin:
the setup has a built bottom end, sleaved w/ low comp pistons..
turbonetics 62-1 turbo, this was picked as i wanted the lowend tq, not so worried about high end power... 12.5 pounds boost
after its all done and some miles on it i may swap out for a BIG turbo for a dyno pull or two
try and be like everyone else and hit 700hp:biggrin:
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Those are flywheel numbers? Why post flywheel numbers, we want to know what the wheels are seeing not what your flywheel is seeing!
BOO! TO FLYwheel exageration of numbers!!!! :biggrin:
I'm just playing with you
Looks like you are going to have quite a monster on your hands.
When are you going to share the details of the set-up instead of teasing dyno threads?
J. R.
BOO! TO FLYwheel exageration of numbers!!!! :biggrin:
I'm just playing with you
Looks like you are going to have quite a monster on your hands.
When are you going to share the details of the set-up instead of teasing dyno threads?
J. R.
Those are flywheel numbers? Why post flywheel numbers, we want to know what the wheels are seeing not what your flywheel is seeing!
BOO! TO FLYwheel exageration of numbers!!!! :biggrin:
I'm just playing with you
Looks like you are going to have quite a monster on your hands.
When are you going to share the details of the set-up instead of teasing dyno threads?
J. R.
man it is Wheel.... it is a "glitch" in the software, it ALWAYS says flywheel.....
what kinda details do you want?
Still 3.0?
Looks awesome. Congrats and enjoy her.
man it is Wheel.... it is a "glitch" in the software, it ALWAYS says flywheel.....
what kinda details do you want?
Gravity Fed set-up? When do you start seeing boost? Looks like you have full boost just a hair over 4k. I would have thought on a small turbo like the 62-1 you would have seen full boost by high 3's, but that is probly becuase you have lowerd the compression on the motor. Who knows.
What wastegate are you running too to control the beast? tial 44mm?
J. R.
this is a pic of my system, i have changed to a larger wastegate since this pic was taken but everything else is the same....
what do ya think?
it IS NOT gravity...i cant see how you can have it gravity without bashing in the floor pan...
FWIW i do have a couple of these oiling systems left, i would sell them if they are needed..cool resivor, cool mount, catch can...even the pump if needed
full boost was @ 4200, roughly...i think it is compression related and on a stocj compression it was full boost @ 3600...i did sive the turbo for stock compression, may change it may not...seems to do just fine...
62-1 isnt really small
same CFM as a gt35....just about right for a streetable nsxyeah tial 44
Very nice,
Could I get a couple more pics of how you did the piping to the muffler? Also what kind of muffler is that?
ALSO, a GT35R depending on what A/R housing you go with should see full boost by 3,500 rpm on a 3.0L NSX. I would say that is a VERY streetable turbo. Your set-up looks to be very streetable as well. I am still going back and forth between a GT40R .85 A/R and a T67BB .81 A/R. So to add to my questions, what A/R did you go with on the 62-1???? My guess is you went over a .90 from your dyno.
BTW: All that coating looks nice, but next time don't coat your DP unless it was made of mild steel and you are only coating it keep it from rusting. If that is the case go with a non thermal coating. You would have seen better spool times if you hadn't coated it. Ideal Gas Law my friend! Just think, static pressure from a gradient is my friend.
Anway. Looks good!
J. R.
Could I get a couple more pics of how you did the piping to the muffler? Also what kind of muffler is that?
ALSO, a GT35R depending on what A/R housing you go with should see full boost by 3,500 rpm on a 3.0L NSX. I would say that is a VERY streetable turbo. Your set-up looks to be very streetable as well. I am still going back and forth between a GT40R .85 A/R and a T67BB .81 A/R. So to add to my questions, what A/R did you go with on the 62-1???? My guess is you went over a .90 from your dyno.
BTW: All that coating looks nice, but next time don't coat your DP unless it was made of mild steel and you are only coating it keep it from rusting. If that is the case go with a non thermal coating. You would have seen better spool times if you hadn't coated it. Ideal Gas Law my friend! Just think, static pressure from a gradient is my friend.
Anway. Looks good!
J. R.
J.R, I agree that looking at the maps the gt35r and 62-1 should see full boost by 3500, but if you go back and look at dyno charts none actually do. It is all @ about 4000.
The 62-1 has a .58 ar and a stage 5 wheel.
As far as the thermal coating, yes I agree if the turbo was closer to engine (block). but you must agree that the with the turbo as far away as it is....the heat build up is greatly reduced (unfortunately) and there for the amount of loss due to coatings that you describe is questionable, if even measurable. Actually it could be argued that the coating on the headers…increases flow enough due to the length and control of the heat.
It could also be argued that the coating will help future heat expansions which would help control cracking…and since that turbo is hanging way at the end of those headers (I do have a mount for it though) cracking is something that may be an issue….
while i know your a greddy guy, here is the turbonetics chart
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/downloads/techdata/TurboMatrix.pdf
as you see the turbo i have picked VS the engne size equates to 500hp. which is where im at (after some more tuning ).
The 62-1 has a .58 ar and a stage 5 wheel.
As far as the thermal coating, yes I agree if the turbo was closer to engine (block). but you must agree that the with the turbo as far away as it is....the heat build up is greatly reduced (unfortunately) and there for the amount of loss due to coatings that you describe is questionable, if even measurable. Actually it could be argued that the coating on the headers…increases flow enough due to the length and control of the heat.
It could also be argued that the coating will help future heat expansions which would help control cracking…and since that turbo is hanging way at the end of those headers (I do have a mount for it though) cracking is something that may be an issue….
while i know your a greddy guy, here is the turbonetics chart
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/downloads/techdata/TurboMatrix.pdf
as you see the turbo i have picked VS the engne size equates to 500hp. which is where im at (after some more tuning
). 
Not sure if he's brave or just crazy... do you remember this post... same guy...Already running it on the dyno after only 100 miles on fresh engine? your brave.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6917401blacks4 said:
01blacks4 - I respect your enthusiasm pushing the envelope... I'm just glad it's on your dime and not mine. ;-) You don't seem to be too cautious even after blowing your last motor and dropping $$ on a big rebuild.
actually not brave...just understand what is going on....motor just needs to go thru a few heat cycles and it is fine...most engine builders would break in the engine on the dyno, why not this one...Just need those rings to expand
As far as blowing my last motor you make it sound like it was me that did it...
you drop you car off at the tuner, and get a call 2 minutes after its on the dyno "ahh your motor blew up", then you look at the "tune" that was supposed to be on the car and find 12 deg timing advance with 8 pounds of boost on a stock bottom end....it goes BOOM.
ya ask the shop what happened and they say, he man sorry we only go one pull....
Now i have never blamed tham and i would never bash them...@%$ happenes and yeah it sucks it happened to me. but blaming, finger pointing and whinning on a public forum doesnt do anyone any good. (ok maybe it helps all the FI haters in the world)
while it may be difficult to convey on a public forum, trust me, i am over cautious.
I, like others that are going this route have goals they want to achieve, and know how to get there.
I do appreciate your concern though....
marc
actually not brave...just understand what is going on....motor just needs to go thru a few heat cycles and it is fine...most engine builders would break in the engine on the dyno, why not this one...Just need those rings to expand
As far as blowing my last motor you make it sound like it was me that did it...
you drop you car off at the tuner, and get a call 2 minutes after its on the dyno "ahh your motor blew up", then you look at the "tune" that was supposed to be on the car and find 12 deg timing advance with 8 pounds of boost on a stock bottom end....it goes BOOM.
ya ask the shop what happened and they say, he man sorry we only go one pull....
Now i have never blamed tham and i would never bash them...@%$ happenes and yeah it sucks it happened to me. but blaming, finger pointing and whinning on a public forum doesnt do anyone any good. (ok maybe it helps all the FI haters in the world)
while it may be difficult to convey on a public forum, trust me, i am over cautious.
I, like others that are going this route have goals they want to achieve, and know how to get there.
I do appreciate your concern though....
marc
I think Marc has the right point of view for someone going FI on an NSX. There are always going to be risks, hope for the best but be prepared for the worst. There is always a chance of blowing your motor with any sort of forced induction, but if you want the horsepower that is a risk you need to be prepared to take. If not, best just to stay NA.
I have known Marc for a bit now and one thing I can say is that he is very cautious and meticulate !!!
I also have the upmost respect for him not only doing a turbo but doing the design himself.
It's individuals like this that have allowed us to achieve some pretty amazing results from our cars especially since some FI companies(Comptech,Gruppe M) have called it quits.
Like posted above going FI can be a risky route,especially if there is a weak point in your motor to start with ,FI will only amplify this.So unless you start with a brand new motor built by a repetuable shop,you really have no idea what to expect and this is what led to the problem with Marc's original motor(if I am not mistaken).There are so many variables that are beyond ones control !!
I have known about this set-up since the "get-go" and Marc was racking his head on how to achieve his set goals.I believe his goal was the 500 RWHP and according to his dyno,CONGRATS is an order !
With a litle more fine tuning he WILL be there.(no pun intended)
Now I need to get back down to AZ and get a ride in this thing,better yet Drive it ????!!!
Stacy
J.R, I agree that looking at the maps the gt35r and 62-1 should see full boost by 3500, but if you go back and look at dyno charts none actually do. It is all @ about 4000.
The 62-1 has a .58 ar and a stage 5 wheel.
As far as the thermal coating, yes I agree if the turbo was closer to engine (block). but you must agree that the with the turbo as far away as it is....the heat build up is greatly reduced (unfortunately) and there for the amount of loss due to coatings that you describe is questionable, if even measurable. Actually it could be argued that the coating on the headers…increases flow enough due to the length and control of the heat.
It could also be argued that the coating will help future heat expansions which would help control cracking…and since that turbo is hanging way at the end of those headers (I do have a mount for it though) cracking is something that may be an issue….
while i know your a greddy guy, here is the turbonetics chart
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/downloads/techdata/TurboMatrix.pdf
as you see the turbo i have picked VS the engne size equates to 500hp. which is where im at (after some more tuning
Hey marc,
I was actually only talking about the coating after the turbo. YOU WANT TO KEEP ALL THE HEAT you can before the turbo, but get rid of it after. Anyway, I am tired and don't feel like typing out all the physics involved with the Ideal Gas Law, but I'll call you tomorrow and you can pick my brain all you want. T-mobile is FREE ON THE WEEKEND! Woot! Talk my ear off for all I care. :biggrin:
J. R.
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