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400 hp at the wheels on whipple CTSC?

An update: I fell pretty short, landed on 333whp on a DP3000 BIG SAD FACE :( not sure what the reason was.
I tuned with the following
ID1000s
AEM EMS 2
Comptech Intake
Comptech Headers
High Boost CTSC
APX Resonated Test Pipes

I was expecting 360s to 370s, but Hawaii has a weird sea level and climate that makes things a little screwy. I'm glad its all tuned up and I can finally enjoy my car, but I cant help feeling like i fell short of what the potential was. My tuner is extremely safe though, keeps the AFRs on the rich side and I dont think he fiddles with timing toooo much. He's proud that no one has blown a motor on his tunes and his tunes reflect that I believe (but that isnt a bad thing). At this rate I think I will just drive on and look at maybe a turbo in the future. The car doesnt feel slow, but getting caught up in the numbers game makes me a little edgy.

Also the car had brand new plugs and all the coils were inspected and seems to work fine. Have not done a compression check but the car idles perfectly and doesnt seem to be skipping a beat.
 
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still nice numbers. dynos are all over the place. sometimes one will be 50whp from each other.

did you keep an eye on that boost curve? I'm chasing .5 lbs of boost that i lost somewhere. slipping belt or hboost leak somewhere.

good luck!
 
The tuner said its a pretty constant 8lbs, I'll have to try get a copy from the dyno to get more specifics, I'm sure he was more concerned with the AFRs and it was getting really late by the time we finished. Kept hitting issues, my only advice is to gap your plugs at .030 After we did that there was no more issues with the ignition system.
 
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turbolence46 said:
The tuner said its a pretty constant 8lbs, I'll have to try get a copy from the dyno to get more specifics, I'm sure he was more concerned with the AFRs and it was getting really late by the time we finished. Kept hitting issues, my only advice is to gap your plugs at .030 After we did that there was no more issues with the ignition system.
Click to expand...
what plugs are you running? i'm running 1 step colder (aka. the 7's)
 
Popping/detonation right around vtec 6krpms at WoT. If you here some detonation at that point and your AFR is perfect, then check your plugs.
 
They normally ship at .043 be careful not to touch the electrode if you have to gap them
 
I'll admit there are a few out there that read high particularly church's dyno but it's not a general dynapack thing. I would say more specifically that each specific dyno and operator will dictate its output. I've had my cars on dyno jets, dynapack, mustang and dyno dynamics. The mustang and dynapack were not far off and the others were considerably higher. It all depends on the individual dyno. I'm trapping 2-3 mph higher that others making 400+ when I only made 390 on a dynapack.
 
I am curious why you would run 1000cc injectors on a 333hp motor? 550's are usually good for 425hp or so.

A tune that is too conservative is not good for your motor for several reasons. What are your WOT AFR's.
 
@ logic,

You're right when it comes to the operator dictating output. Any dyno that gives you the power to control load during a pull can control output. Most Mustang and Dynapack owners that know what they are doing will tell you that. Dynojets will be the most consistent and most accurate as far as the smoothness of the pull. I've seen 20hp dips during VTEC engagement on a Dynojet that a Dynopack couldn't pick up.. reason being that they didn't have enough load on the engine. It greatly affects spool up as well which dramatically changes the torque curve. Any honest Mustang and Dynapack operator will try to get the load proper to give you the most realistic results. But then again it is strictly for tuning so results at the track or a still running engine will tell all :)
 
Noah,

You probably were not getting detonation, but simply blowing out the spark.

Spark plug gap will vary based on a number of conditions/age of the coil packs/etc. But typically we recommend guys with lower boost run .028-.030. And run the NGK 6282 plug for engines up to 600-700 whp.

As discussed before, on both the SOS AEM EMS systems for OBD2 cars I've tuned, their base calibration for ign sync was drastically off. If your dyno tuner didnt mess with the ignition timing as you posted above, he didn't find MBT on the engine, there is probably more power to be made. However, with that being said, if he didnt try to change the ign sync on the AEM, then he was probably getting nervous adding timing when high ignition timing numbers are staring at him in the face lol.

Mase
 
Not trying to take over this thread, but we are about to finally tune my high boost ctsc 1.6 tomorrow. Its been a long road and a good learning experience over the last month. Been watching this thread. Dyno'd on a dyno jet at 257 (3.0 l) with billyboat headers, and exhaust, and cai. Running short gears, and I think 4.23 diff from the tests I have done on the highway and from the sos chart - but not sure.
Anyways: high boost, 550's, 255 fp, aem ems 2, watermeth inj, and my tuner is pretty conservative but I am hoping for some big numbers. I just want to stop losing races to average cars haha. Anyone know about dyno jet is this an accurate dyno?
 
If I were you I'd be me concerned with just being faster then a car then the numbers, although I will probably be going to a turbo set up in the future. Race a guy that says he has 365whp or w/e and let that be the comparison. Its kinda my view at the moment to be a true benchmark since dynos vary greatly, and there are a lot of factors that effect the results. Nevertheless, the norm seems to be over 350+ under 400. I probably just suck and my car hates me lol -_-
 
kevgk said:
Not trying to take over this thread, but we are about to finally tune my high boost ctsc 1.6 tomorrow. Its been a long road and a good learning experience over the last month. Been watching this thread. Dyno'd on a dyno jet at 257 (3.0 l) with billyboat headers, and exhaust, and cai. Running short gears, and I think 4.23 diff from the tests I have done on the highway and from the sos chart - but not sure.
Anyways: high boost, 550's, 255 fp, aem ems 2, watermeth inj, and my tuner is pretty conservative but I am hoping for some big numbers. I just want to stop losing races to average cars haha. Anyone know about dyno jet is this an accurate dyno?
Click to expand...

Yes, the Dynojet is pretty industry standard for tuning and accuracy. It is also among the most sensitive so if you have a smooth power curve on a jet, then you bet your ass it will be buttery smooth on the road. It can pick up wheel imbalances, a bad cv joint, and a shotty tune as well :) If you did your baseline power pulls on a jet, then it's best to do all of your subsequent tuning/pulls on the jet to get a better understanding of your gains. Hope this helps. As far as making over 400whp on a Comptech whipple, I have accomplished that feat so yes it is possible. If you would like to see some before and after graphs of this customer's progress to get to this power I can show you.
 
dmscrx said:
Yes, the Dynojet is pretty industry standard for tuning and accuracy. It is also among the most sensitive so if you have a smooth power curve on a jet, then you bet your ass it will be buttery smooth on the road. It can pick up wheel imbalances, a bad cv joint, and a shotty tune as well :) If you did your baseline power pulls on a jet, then it's best to do all of your subsequent tuning/pulls on the jet to get a better understanding of your gains. Hope this helps. As far as making over 400whp on a Comptech whipple, I have accomplished that feat so yes it is possible. If you would like to see some before and after graphs of this customer's progress to get to this power I can show you.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome to see how you got 400. You can pm me thanks!
 
It can be done, quite frankly, I could probably do it right now if I had the guts to push my motor to the limits. Being a 3.0 doesnt help, but a more free flowing exhaust (Pride V2 FTL) Smaller pulley, more aggressive timing, and leaning out the mixture a little more. I think I could get pretty close, especially if I sprayed something more then just water.
 
turbolence46 said:
It can be done, quite frankly, I could probably do it right now if I had the guts to push my motor to the limits. Being a 3.0 doesnt help, but a more free flowing exhaust (Pride V2 FTL) Smaller pulley, more aggressive timing, and leaning out the mixture a little more. I think I could get pretty close, especially if I sprayed something more then just water.
Click to expand...
Agree. I also feel I can squeeze more out of mine and if it was simply a numbers game I definitely would.

No disrespect to the guys who are successful at making crazy power.

OT Question: How does AEM account for a knock event? When you're tuning at WOT how are you able to see how much knock is occuring? On the HKS it has an audible knock amp. I was listening to it in real-time.. kind of amazing.
 
On my setup, my AEM digital interface shows knock, I think it uses the knock voltage to figure it out.

- - - Updated - - -

it not so much the HP that concerns me, I (which I'm planning) think that 400whp on a turbo set up, puts the safety within reason, but the means to get the whipple there crosses the line for me in a few categories. The 3.2 L motors might work out better though.
 

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