• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Alarm stuck w/ starter kill when replacing battery.....

Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
1 February 2002
Messages
1,106
Location
San Dimas, CA
Need some help please...after replacing the battery and getting both terminals on the horn blasts on me- parking lights solid, and I try to turn the alarm off with no avail. I know the remote works since I have two.

The alarm has a certain starter kill when it goes off and disables all kinds of stuff( aftermarket Viper) but the car will turn but not start. I remove the fuse so at least I can look around, there is a toggle switch put in the glove that I can usually switch with the key in the "ON" position to disarm the alarm in manual mode....NO LUCK. The alarm light doesnt even show.

SO the car wont start, I did think of leaving the battery connected to let the alarm just stop and reset maybe? but didnt want to waste the battery now.

I realize its an aftermarket but hopefully someone has insight on what I can try. I'm pretty sure that the alarm beeps the horn when going off not a constant one....
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
13 July 2001
Messages
593
Location
Woodstock Ga. N of Atlanta
If you left the fuse out when trying the valet switch, it won't work. I guess that is why you have no light. I would not worry about the amperage used during the 60 second reset recycle. We have NSX's with Vipers in our shop all the time, and when we reconnect the battery, we have the remote in our hands- I cannot tell you why you can't shut it off this way, unless the remote is weak. You should try putting all wiring and fuses back to nominal, and have someone else hook up the battery while you try the remote from inside the car. As anyone with a factory keyless can tell you, the first sign of a weak remote battery is the decreasing range, or decreased places you can stand and still have the remote work.

As for starting the car, the Viper installs a relay which is located under the dash below or near the steering column (exact location picked by the installer). It is easy to identify- it is the only relay which intercepts a wire from the ignition switch. Get a fleashlight, and find the small bundle of large guage wire coming from the ignition switch. You should find that the black/white wire has been cut in half and run through a relay. If you remove the two cut halves from the relay and restore the wire (or its connection temporarily) the car will start regardless of viper start.

All that said, if you are unsure of wiring procedures, find a Viper dealer.

Good Luck,
MB
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
22 November 2001
Messages
301
Location
Woodland Hills, CA
The alarms that I worked on all had a "feature" to reconnect the battery. All you had to do was to put the ignition key in the "on" position, then simply reconnect the battery. The logic is that only the owner and not a thief would have the key and ability to do an ignition "on". I bet this will still work.
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
1 February 2002
Messages
1,106
Location
San Dimas, CA
Interesting KPOND- got home too late to really try anything- but did notice that nothing really works, no headlights power door locks, so hopefully just a fuse...
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
9 April 2002
Messages
2,753
Location
New Zealand, North Island
Ok, did you pull the fuse to the alarm? If you have a back up battery: disconn that too.

Your car should start right up.

99.9% of the alarms have a "normally closed" kill switch. Pulling the fuse deprives power from the alarm and the relay closes....just like it was never there.

Post the model of the Viper. I really doubt it is a "normally open" switch.

If it is a "normally closed" alarm, I recommend that you throw it away. You just have a very expensive noise maker....completely worthless. Did the shop install the module on the driver side too?

Drew
 
Top