baynsac
Guest
In 1998 in Highschool one of my teachers who is a prime member to this date had a silver nsx and drove it to school and told us little about it.( Ken Crowel, chopsjazz)
I fell in love with the car and I promised myself to buy one one day. I could of bought it before 05 but was scared of the maintaince till finally in 05 when I gave in.
In 2005 I bought a 1991 NSX, Black with Ivory interior and with 37k miles. From the orginal owner in Chicago with full service history which I verified by calling and checking up on it. Got a PPI inspection, used all the suggestions on the people from prime, which helped alot. the car was driven 2k miles a year with the previous owner and I drive about 8-10k per year on it now.
Everything checked out, and I waited 5 months for delivery. Since it was the worst winter in years that year and was forced to drive it home to the Bay Area.
It was my first time driving an NSX and with the bad weather I still made it home fine and with a big grin on my face.
The whole ride back to Cali I was very comfortable and I fell in love with the car.
I drove the car to Vegas, Arizona, LA, and countless other places and no problem at all, AC blowing cold stereo blasting going 90+ on the hot desert and no problems at all. This Car is a true relaible car. Love the NSX.
I bought an nitrous kit that SNDNSOUL had on his wide body nsx and did high 12's in the quarter mile. Than I waited and studied the nitrous and with help of badcarma made my kit better with all the safety features and all options. I spent alot of money on it. And Its a great kit it works like a supercharger on WOT and makes 50% more hp at any given rpm than OEM.....till the bottle runs out.
Than I got a Ztek exhaust and Comptech Headers and than the Cantrell scoop intake.
Than got my Nitrous kit install at Science of Speed in AZ, who were suppose to do a direct port nirtous kit but couldnt so I had to do a wet kit.
I than also got my Throtle body bored to 65mm and cleaned at SOS. Than got some Comptech test pipes.
I have alot more to go but Here is the the list of things I have done:
1991 NSX Berlina Black with Real honda NSX-R diffusor, Down Force 02 Rear Bumper, Shine GTONE lip, VIS R Type Hood with R Scoop made by SOS, NSXR Front bumper Cover, NSXR Under battery cover
Comptech Headers, Z-Tek Competion Exhaust, Comptech Test pipes with 02 bung,
AIS scoop with Uni-Filter, SOS Big Bore Throttle Body,
NSX-R Chassis Bars, NSX-R Swaybars, Slotted Brembo rotors with ATE gold brake fluid, Stainless steel brake lines,
Royal Purple Synthetic Oil every 3k miles, NGK Spark plugs, R/C Eng fuel injectors,
Walbaro 255lph High Flow Fuel Pump, 80HP/TQ NX nitrous kit with
NX bottle heater/bottle opener/purge all controlled with Carbon Fiber switches
in the cockpit/Zublin RPM window switch/
AEM A/F guage, AEM nitrous pressure guage in place of ashtray /
NSX-R carpet and NSX-R Floor mats/SOS short hub and ZERO MASS ($900 retail for steering wheel weighs less than a pound) Racing Steering wheel/ CF Cruise control buttons / Autovation aluminum race pedals,
NSX-R mesh boot, SOS 4300k HID kit/
Focal componet speaker, Alpine 4 ch amp, Dual Screen with Navigation pod,
Alpine blackbird Navigation with Bluetooth phone, Alpine W205 DVD/MP3/CD/VCD/Jpeg/ 80G Ipod, Zetoolman Version 3 box with slim 10' sub.
,
Here is my Dyno on my NA engine:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27960
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27959
Than I did the Nitrous kit install at Science of Speed in AZ. And did everything Badcarma suggested for me to do to make it the Best Nitrous Kit on ANY NSX period.
I think I finally almost got this nitrous install done. I thought others might be interested. It all started with BadCarma and his knowledge. I started with a direct port nitrous and wanted to have a shop with lot of nsx experience to do my install so I drove to Science of Speed in Arizona. They were having trouble installing it direct port so I ended up getting a wet kit installed there. NX wet kit with remote bottle opener, auto bottle heater, Wide open throttle (WOT) switch.
Than finished the install at a local performance shop and added a purge kit, a down pipe(necessary for the track), Fuel pressure safety switch, Guages Air/Fuel and nitrous pressure. and now currently installing a NX/FJO racing Progressive controller that controlls how much I spray at every RPM, has a first gear lock out, Rpm window switch, lot of other features but not as many as The maximizer 2 I should of got where you can controll in each gear what rpms and how much you spray but its real expensive.
First before the Nitrous install I went to Rob in Valancia to make car ready for nitrous use. These steps are crucial before you start spraying.
1. Compression test and leak down test. This is the deal maker or breaker.
2. Change spark NGK BKR7E gaped at 0.35 (one step colder, or 2 if you are pushing more than 100 hp shot, in that case it will be NGK BKR7E-11's
3. Ignition Coil check for spark and intensity- Validate if ignition is putting out enough spark ( OEM LEVEL) make sure check each coil pack is in spec.
4. Replace fuel filter.
5. Install Oem injectors that have been cleaned to excelent flow conditions by RC' Eng. Or if you can afford to pay a little more get them RC' enginering to clean and have them make it peak hold 15% more flow.
6. Install new Fuel pump or you can get the High Flow Walbaro 255lph Fuel pump. I got the Walbaro High flow fuel pump
7. Fuel pressure regulator. Validate pump is working at proper flow level.
Raise the OEM fuel pressure regulator to full time 12v.
8. Dyno to see how the car running. Make sure A/F looks good. ( I did this with a 45 shot and it looked good )
Dyno Results:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...hp?photo=27960
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...hp?photo=27959
Here is a Dyno Result with just a small 45 hp shot:
http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=chartoi1.jpg
Look at the Torque and Horsepower numbers big difference even with a small shot. No other way than NITROUS to make such TQ numbers so quickly.
Now we are installing FJO racing Progressive controller.
http://www.fjoracing.com/products/2stageminicontroller/
And also using my dyno results to determine how much hp nitrous spray to add at what RPM. So I will spray 25-50% hp more at each 500 rpm than the current hp its making now in each RPM. So when the nitrous is activated it will run like a super/turbo charger and be safe as it can be. Might not be able to use it all day everyday but ALWAYS when I need it.
This is a great setup it will only run when the fuel pressure/oil pressure is optimum, only at Wide open throttle, Only at the set RPM 3000-7000 rpms, not hard on the drive train or engine as there is no hard nitrous hit, it progressively increases hp/tq as the rpms/gears increase.
Most of the Parts List is Here:
MY Nitrous Kit:
Nitrous Express Polished 10lb bottle (retail $349)
Full tank with 10 lbs of nitrous. ($55)
billet aluminum bottle brackets (retail $249)
Nitrous express solenoids for nitrous and fuel, 2
Dual stage wet kit fogger nozzle
Automatic bottle opener ( can open your bottle from your car seat with a switch) Automatic bottle Heater with optium pressure holder ( keeps your nitrous at the right temp)
Down Pipe ( a must on the track with nitrous )
Fuel pressure safety switch,
WOT switch
purge kit
zublin rpm window switch
B&m fuel pressure regulator
Autometer nitrous pressure gauge
Nitrous pressure gauge sending unit
Autometer AFR gauge
HISTORY OF NITROUS FOR YOU PEOPLE THAT ARE SCARED OF IT AS YOU DONT UNDERSTAND IT:
HISTROY - For other who might just be looking into Nitrous for the first time or would like a better overall intro to it. Buy the Book by JOE PETTIT how nitrous works best book ever on the subject and very simple to read and understand. (THANKS DAVE badcarma for the recomendation and all your help)
How does nitrous oxide help an engine perform better?
This Question of the Day talks about how sodium chlorate acts as a way to store oxygen. You release the oxygen in sodium chlorate by heating it. It turns out that nitrous oxide (N20) works exactly the same way. When you heat nitrous oxide to about 570 degrees F (~300 C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So the injection of nitrous oxide into an engine means that more oxygen is available during combustion. Because you have more oxygen, you can also inject more fuel, allowing the same engine to produce more power. Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest ways to provide a significant horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.
Nitrous oxide has another effect that improves performance even more. When it vaporizes, nitrous oxide provides a significant cooling effect on the intake air. When you reduce the intake air temperature, you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinder.
The only problem with nitrous oxide is that it is fairly bulky, and the engine needs a lot of it. Like any gas, it takes up a fair amount of space even when compressed into a liquid. A 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (rpm) consumes about 10,000 liters of air every minute (compared to about 0.2 liters of gasoline), so it would take a tremendous amount of nitrous oxide to run a car continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries only a few minutes of nitrous oxide, and the driver uses it very selectively by pushing a button.
Overview
When nitrous oxide decomposes, a single mole will release 1/2 mole of oxygen gas, allowing an oxygen saturation of 33% to be reached. Air, which contains only 21% oxygen, permits a maximum saturation of only 21%. This oxygen combines with hydrocarbons such as gasoline, alcohol, and diesel fuel to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor, which expand and exert pressure on pistons.
Nitrous oxide is stored as a liquid in tanks, but because of its low boiling point it vaporizes easily when released to atmosphere. When injected into an inlet manifold this characteristic causes a reduction in air/fuel charge temperature with an associated increase in density, thereby increasing the cylinder's volumetric efficiency.
When N2O breaks down in the engines combustion phase, the oxygen atoms are freed from their bond to the nitrogen atoms in an exothermic reaction, contributing to the overall power increase.
Nitrous systems can increase power by as little as 0.5 hp or as much as 3,000 hp, depending on the engine type and nitrous system type. All systems are based on a single power kits but these kits can be used in multiples (called 2, 3 or even 4 stage); the most advanced systems are controlled by an electronic progressive delivery unit that allows a single kit to perform better than multiple kits can. Most Pro Mod cars and some Pro Street cars use three stages for additional power, but more and more are switching to pulsed progressive technology.
Fans can easily identify nitrous-equipped cars at the track by the fact that most will "purge" the delivery system prior to reaching the starting line. A separate electrically operated valve is used to release air and gaseous nitrous oxide trapped in the delivery system. This brings liquid nitrous oxide all the way up through the plumbing from the storage tank to the solenoid valve or valves that will release it into the engine's intake tract. When the purge system is activated, one or more plumes of nitrous oxide will be visible for a moment as the liquid flashes to vapor as it is released. The purpose of a nitrous purge is to ensure that the correct amount of nitrous oxide is delivered the moment the system is activated—air or gaseous nitrous oxide in the line will cause the car to "bog" for an instant until liquid nitrous oxide reaches the intake.
Types of nitrous systems
There are two main categories of nitrous systems: dry & wet. A nitrous system is primarily concerned with introducing fuel and nitrous into the engine's cylinders, and combining them for more efficient combustion. There are 4 main sub types of wet system: single point, direct port, plate, and plenum bar all of which are just slightly different methods of discharging nitrous into the plenums of the intake manifold.
Dry
In a dry nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the manifold dry of nitrous. This property is what gives the dry system its name. Fuel flow can be increased either by increasing the pressure in the fuel injection system, or by modifying the vehicle's computer to increase the time the fuel injectors remain open during the engine cycle. This is typically done by spraying nitrous past the mass airflow sensor (MAF), which then sends a signal to the vehicle's computer telling it that it sees colder denser air, and that more fuel is needed. This is typically not an exact method of adding fuel. Once additional fuel has been introduced, it can burn with the extra oxygen provided by the nitrous, providing additional power.
Dry nitrous systems rely on a single type nozzle that only sprays nitrous through it, not nitrous and fuel. These nitrous nozzles generally spray in a 90 degree pattern.
Wet single-point
A wet single-point nitrous system introduces the fuel and nitrous together, causing the upper intake to become wet with fuel. In carbureted applications, this is typically accomplished with a spraybar plate mounted between the carburetor base and the intake manifold, while cars fitted with electronic fuel injection often use a plate mounted between the manifold and the base of the throttle body, or a single nozzle mounted in the intake tract. However, most makes of nitrous systems combined with unsuitable intake designs, often result in distribution problems and/or intake backfires. Dry-flow intakes are designed to contain only air, which will travel through smaller pipes and tighter turns with less pressure, whereas wet-flow intakes are designed to contain a mixture of fuel and air. Wet nitrous systems tend to produce more power than dry systems, but in some cases can be more expensive and difficult to install.
A wet nozzle differs in the way that it takes in both nitrous and fuel which are metered by jets to create a perfect or proper air-fuel ratio (AFR).
Newer wet nitrous kits on domestic cars have become increasingly easy to install by pulling fuel via the schrader valve on the fuel rail which is normally designated as a fuel test port. It makes plumbing and using a wet nitrous kit much more simple.
Wet direct port
A wet direct port nitrous system introduces nitrous and fuel directly into each intake port on the engine. These systems are also known as direct port nitrous systems. Normally, these systems combine nitrous and fuel through several nozzles similar in design to a wet single-point nozzle, which mixes and meters the nitrous and fuel delivered to each cylinder individually, allowing each cylinder's nitrous/fuel ratio to be adjusted without affecting the other cylinders. Note that there are still several ways to introduce nitrous through a direct port system. There are several different types of nozzles and placements ranging from fogger nozzles that requires one to drill and tap the manifold, to specialty direct port E.F.I. nozzles that fit into the fuel injector ports along with the fuel injectors.
A multi-point system is the most powerful type of nitrous system, due to the placement of the nozzle in each runner, as well as the ability to use more and higher capacity solenoid valves. Wet multi-point kits can go as high as 3,000 horsepower (2,400 kW) with only one stage, but most produce less than half that amount with two, three or even four stages.[citation needed] These systems are also the most complex and expensive systems, requiring significant modification to the engine, including adding distribution blocks and solenoid assemblies, as well as drilling, tapping and constructing plumbing for each cylinder runner. These systems are most often used on racing vehicles specially built to take the strain of such high power levels. Many high-horsepower race applications will use more than one nozzle per cylinder, plumbed in stages to allow greater control of how much power is delivered with each stage. A two-stage system will actually allow three different levels of additional horsepower; for example, a small first stage can be used in first gear to prevent excessive wheelspin, then turned off in favor of a larger second stage once the car is moving. In top gear, both stages can be activated at the same time for maximum horsepower. A more recent improvement on the staged concept from WON is the progressive delivery system, which allows a simpler single stage system to act even better than multiple stages, delivering a smoothly progressive increase in power which is adjustable to suit the user requirements.
Reliability concerns:
As all modifications to increase power, the use of nitrous oxide carries with it concerns about the reliability and longevity of an engine. Due to the greatly increased cylinder pressures, the engine as a whole is placed under greater stress, especially the parts involved with the combustion chamber. An engine with components not able to cope with the increased stress imposed by the use of nitrous systems can experience major engine damage, such as cracked or destroyed pistons, connecting rods, or crankshafts.
Even if the engine is up to the task, severe damage can occur if a problem occurs in the fuel system; an engine running with nitrous oxide depends heavily on the proper air to fuel ratio to prevent detonation from occurring. For example, if the engine's fuel supply was to be reduced, this would cause the engine to run lean by whatever degree the fuel delivery was reduced by which can lead to engine knock or detonation. Depending on the engine, this may only need to occur for a matter of seconds before major damage occurs.
Despite these concerns, most modern OEM engines can reliably handle a nitrous power increase in the region of 50%, especially when that power is delivered using progressive control
This is what I have done so far to reduce weight.
91 OEM NSX Curb Weight 3010lbs
1991 NSX- S/R New Weight: 2795
Diet / Weight Saving program my NSX just went thru below:
Spare Tire/Wheel ('91-'93) (removed) -29.4 lbs
Spare Tire Mounting Bracket (removed) -3 lbs
Air Pump, (removed) -9 lbs
Entire Tool Kit with Jack (removed) -14 lbs
Floor mats (left and right) and Trunk Mat (Removed when at the track) -12.4 lbs
Engine Cover -25 lbs
Add Odyssey 680 battery(+14.7) & Remove(-35lbs OEM battery) -20.3 lbs
Z-TEK Headers and Remove OEM headers -12 lbs
Remove Cats w/shields- add Comptech Test Pipes (with 02 bung hole) -22 lbs
Custom S/R Race Exhaust & Remove OEM Exhaust -23 lbs
Carbon Fiber NSX-R wing (+6.8) and remove OEM wing -7.2lbs
NSX-R Carbon Fiber Hood and Remove OEM hood -5 lbs
Remove OEM steering wheel & Airbag & add Zero-Mass CF Steeringwheel -17-19 lbs Estimated
Remove OEM rear beam & Replace with STMPO Aluminum Replacement Beam - 15lbs
Next on the list is to do some maintiance Full 90K with timing belt and water pump and all the hoses and all the things I read recommended at this time. Which is getting done as we speak At Niguel Motors.
Here is the list:
Which includes :
Replace ALL hoses
Replace timing belt, water pump,
adjust valves,
replace valve cover seals,
replace rear cam seals,
replace Vtec seals,
replace oil pressure sending unit seals,
replace alternator and A/C belts.
Change Fuel Filter,Bleed and flush cooling system
Replace Cam plugs
Replace Vtec Gasket set
Replace Oil pan Gasket
Repace TENSIONER
Replace THERMOSTAT
Replace SPARK PLUG SEALS
Replace VTEC O-RINGS
Replace SPOOL VALVE O-RINGS
drain & refill transmission Fluids
Replace fuel filter
take a look at the V-tech solenoids
bleed brake fluid
bleed and cycle ABS system
check and set parking brake adjustment
Transmission is Getting Shipped to LEVELTEN Racing to be built to handle 500hp.
Here is LEVELTEN WEBSITE:
http://www.levelten.com/AcuraTransmission_p/acu-ja1800-1000p.htm
I Will have the fastest auto NSX in the World.
Got My Meth Kit ordered from Wil (Angus) with my custom aluminum 3.5 gallon tank that goes where the tool box does.
You can see it here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55070&d=1241575422
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55069&d=1241575379
NEXT IS THE TURBO KIT .......NEXT 2 WEEK ON MORE ON THAT as its still in the air on few things...
Project NSX-R/T
I fell in love with the car and I promised myself to buy one one day. I could of bought it before 05 but was scared of the maintaince till finally in 05 when I gave in.
In 2005 I bought a 1991 NSX, Black with Ivory interior and with 37k miles. From the orginal owner in Chicago with full service history which I verified by calling and checking up on it. Got a PPI inspection, used all the suggestions on the people from prime, which helped alot. the car was driven 2k miles a year with the previous owner and I drive about 8-10k per year on it now.
Everything checked out, and I waited 5 months for delivery. Since it was the worst winter in years that year and was forced to drive it home to the Bay Area.
It was my first time driving an NSX and with the bad weather I still made it home fine and with a big grin on my face.
The whole ride back to Cali I was very comfortable and I fell in love with the car.
I drove the car to Vegas, Arizona, LA, and countless other places and no problem at all, AC blowing cold stereo blasting going 90+ on the hot desert and no problems at all. This Car is a true relaible car. Love the NSX.
I bought an nitrous kit that SNDNSOUL had on his wide body nsx and did high 12's in the quarter mile. Than I waited and studied the nitrous and with help of badcarma made my kit better with all the safety features and all options. I spent alot of money on it. And Its a great kit it works like a supercharger on WOT and makes 50% more hp at any given rpm than OEM.....till the bottle runs out.
Than I got a Ztek exhaust and Comptech Headers and than the Cantrell scoop intake.
Than got my Nitrous kit install at Science of Speed in AZ, who were suppose to do a direct port nirtous kit but couldnt so I had to do a wet kit.
I than also got my Throtle body bored to 65mm and cleaned at SOS. Than got some Comptech test pipes.
I have alot more to go but Here is the the list of things I have done:
1991 NSX Berlina Black with Real honda NSX-R diffusor, Down Force 02 Rear Bumper, Shine GTONE lip, VIS R Type Hood with R Scoop made by SOS, NSXR Front bumper Cover, NSXR Under battery cover
Comptech Headers, Z-Tek Competion Exhaust, Comptech Test pipes with 02 bung,
AIS scoop with Uni-Filter, SOS Big Bore Throttle Body,
NSX-R Chassis Bars, NSX-R Swaybars, Slotted Brembo rotors with ATE gold brake fluid, Stainless steel brake lines,
Royal Purple Synthetic Oil every 3k miles, NGK Spark plugs, R/C Eng fuel injectors,
Walbaro 255lph High Flow Fuel Pump, 80HP/TQ NX nitrous kit with
NX bottle heater/bottle opener/purge all controlled with Carbon Fiber switches
in the cockpit/Zublin RPM window switch/
AEM A/F guage, AEM nitrous pressure guage in place of ashtray /
NSX-R carpet and NSX-R Floor mats/SOS short hub and ZERO MASS ($900 retail for steering wheel weighs less than a pound) Racing Steering wheel/ CF Cruise control buttons / Autovation aluminum race pedals,
NSX-R mesh boot, SOS 4300k HID kit/
Focal componet speaker, Alpine 4 ch amp, Dual Screen with Navigation pod,
Alpine blackbird Navigation with Bluetooth phone, Alpine W205 DVD/MP3/CD/VCD/Jpeg/ 80G Ipod, Zetoolman Version 3 box with slim 10' sub.
,
Here is my Dyno on my NA engine:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27960
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27959
Than I did the Nitrous kit install at Science of Speed in AZ. And did everything Badcarma suggested for me to do to make it the Best Nitrous Kit on ANY NSX period.
I think I finally almost got this nitrous install done. I thought others might be interested. It all started with BadCarma and his knowledge. I started with a direct port nitrous and wanted to have a shop with lot of nsx experience to do my install so I drove to Science of Speed in Arizona. They were having trouble installing it direct port so I ended up getting a wet kit installed there. NX wet kit with remote bottle opener, auto bottle heater, Wide open throttle (WOT) switch.
Than finished the install at a local performance shop and added a purge kit, a down pipe(necessary for the track), Fuel pressure safety switch, Guages Air/Fuel and nitrous pressure. and now currently installing a NX/FJO racing Progressive controller that controlls how much I spray at every RPM, has a first gear lock out, Rpm window switch, lot of other features but not as many as The maximizer 2 I should of got where you can controll in each gear what rpms and how much you spray but its real expensive.
First before the Nitrous install I went to Rob in Valancia to make car ready for nitrous use. These steps are crucial before you start spraying.
1. Compression test and leak down test. This is the deal maker or breaker.
2. Change spark NGK BKR7E gaped at 0.35 (one step colder, or 2 if you are pushing more than 100 hp shot, in that case it will be NGK BKR7E-11's
3. Ignition Coil check for spark and intensity- Validate if ignition is putting out enough spark ( OEM LEVEL) make sure check each coil pack is in spec.
4. Replace fuel filter.
5. Install Oem injectors that have been cleaned to excelent flow conditions by RC' Eng. Or if you can afford to pay a little more get them RC' enginering to clean and have them make it peak hold 15% more flow.
6. Install new Fuel pump or you can get the High Flow Walbaro 255lph Fuel pump. I got the Walbaro High flow fuel pump
7. Fuel pressure regulator. Validate pump is working at proper flow level.
Raise the OEM fuel pressure regulator to full time 12v.
8. Dyno to see how the car running. Make sure A/F looks good. ( I did this with a 45 shot and it looked good )
Dyno Results:
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...hp?photo=27960
http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/sh...hp?photo=27959
Here is a Dyno Result with just a small 45 hp shot:
http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=chartoi1.jpg
Look at the Torque and Horsepower numbers big difference even with a small shot. No other way than NITROUS to make such TQ numbers so quickly.
Now we are installing FJO racing Progressive controller.
http://www.fjoracing.com/products/2stageminicontroller/
And also using my dyno results to determine how much hp nitrous spray to add at what RPM. So I will spray 25-50% hp more at each 500 rpm than the current hp its making now in each RPM. So when the nitrous is activated it will run like a super/turbo charger and be safe as it can be. Might not be able to use it all day everyday but ALWAYS when I need it.
This is a great setup it will only run when the fuel pressure/oil pressure is optimum, only at Wide open throttle, Only at the set RPM 3000-7000 rpms, not hard on the drive train or engine as there is no hard nitrous hit, it progressively increases hp/tq as the rpms/gears increase.
Most of the Parts List is Here:
MY Nitrous Kit:
Nitrous Express Polished 10lb bottle (retail $349)
Full tank with 10 lbs of nitrous. ($55)
billet aluminum bottle brackets (retail $249)
Nitrous express solenoids for nitrous and fuel, 2
Dual stage wet kit fogger nozzle
Automatic bottle opener ( can open your bottle from your car seat with a switch) Automatic bottle Heater with optium pressure holder ( keeps your nitrous at the right temp)
Down Pipe ( a must on the track with nitrous )
Fuel pressure safety switch,
WOT switch
purge kit
zublin rpm window switch
B&m fuel pressure regulator
Autometer nitrous pressure gauge
Nitrous pressure gauge sending unit
Autometer AFR gauge
HISTORY OF NITROUS FOR YOU PEOPLE THAT ARE SCARED OF IT AS YOU DONT UNDERSTAND IT:
HISTROY - For other who might just be looking into Nitrous for the first time or would like a better overall intro to it. Buy the Book by JOE PETTIT how nitrous works best book ever on the subject and very simple to read and understand. (THANKS DAVE badcarma for the recomendation and all your help)
How does nitrous oxide help an engine perform better?
This Question of the Day talks about how sodium chlorate acts as a way to store oxygen. You release the oxygen in sodium chlorate by heating it. It turns out that nitrous oxide (N20) works exactly the same way. When you heat nitrous oxide to about 570 degrees F (~300 C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So the injection of nitrous oxide into an engine means that more oxygen is available during combustion. Because you have more oxygen, you can also inject more fuel, allowing the same engine to produce more power. Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest ways to provide a significant horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.
Nitrous oxide has another effect that improves performance even more. When it vaporizes, nitrous oxide provides a significant cooling effect on the intake air. When you reduce the intake air temperature, you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinder.
The only problem with nitrous oxide is that it is fairly bulky, and the engine needs a lot of it. Like any gas, it takes up a fair amount of space even when compressed into a liquid. A 5-liter engine running at 4,000 rotations per minute (rpm) consumes about 10,000 liters of air every minute (compared to about 0.2 liters of gasoline), so it would take a tremendous amount of nitrous oxide to run a car continuously. Therefore, a car normally carries only a few minutes of nitrous oxide, and the driver uses it very selectively by pushing a button.
Overview
When nitrous oxide decomposes, a single mole will release 1/2 mole of oxygen gas, allowing an oxygen saturation of 33% to be reached. Air, which contains only 21% oxygen, permits a maximum saturation of only 21%. This oxygen combines with hydrocarbons such as gasoline, alcohol, and diesel fuel to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor, which expand and exert pressure on pistons.
Nitrous oxide is stored as a liquid in tanks, but because of its low boiling point it vaporizes easily when released to atmosphere. When injected into an inlet manifold this characteristic causes a reduction in air/fuel charge temperature with an associated increase in density, thereby increasing the cylinder's volumetric efficiency.
When N2O breaks down in the engines combustion phase, the oxygen atoms are freed from their bond to the nitrogen atoms in an exothermic reaction, contributing to the overall power increase.
Nitrous systems can increase power by as little as 0.5 hp or as much as 3,000 hp, depending on the engine type and nitrous system type. All systems are based on a single power kits but these kits can be used in multiples (called 2, 3 or even 4 stage); the most advanced systems are controlled by an electronic progressive delivery unit that allows a single kit to perform better than multiple kits can. Most Pro Mod cars and some Pro Street cars use three stages for additional power, but more and more are switching to pulsed progressive technology.
Fans can easily identify nitrous-equipped cars at the track by the fact that most will "purge" the delivery system prior to reaching the starting line. A separate electrically operated valve is used to release air and gaseous nitrous oxide trapped in the delivery system. This brings liquid nitrous oxide all the way up through the plumbing from the storage tank to the solenoid valve or valves that will release it into the engine's intake tract. When the purge system is activated, one or more plumes of nitrous oxide will be visible for a moment as the liquid flashes to vapor as it is released. The purpose of a nitrous purge is to ensure that the correct amount of nitrous oxide is delivered the moment the system is activated—air or gaseous nitrous oxide in the line will cause the car to "bog" for an instant until liquid nitrous oxide reaches the intake.
Types of nitrous systems
There are two main categories of nitrous systems: dry & wet. A nitrous system is primarily concerned with introducing fuel and nitrous into the engine's cylinders, and combining them for more efficient combustion. There are 4 main sub types of wet system: single point, direct port, plate, and plenum bar all of which are just slightly different methods of discharging nitrous into the plenums of the intake manifold.
Dry
In a dry nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the manifold dry of nitrous. This property is what gives the dry system its name. Fuel flow can be increased either by increasing the pressure in the fuel injection system, or by modifying the vehicle's computer to increase the time the fuel injectors remain open during the engine cycle. This is typically done by spraying nitrous past the mass airflow sensor (MAF), which then sends a signal to the vehicle's computer telling it that it sees colder denser air, and that more fuel is needed. This is typically not an exact method of adding fuel. Once additional fuel has been introduced, it can burn with the extra oxygen provided by the nitrous, providing additional power.
Dry nitrous systems rely on a single type nozzle that only sprays nitrous through it, not nitrous and fuel. These nitrous nozzles generally spray in a 90 degree pattern.
Wet single-point
A wet single-point nitrous system introduces the fuel and nitrous together, causing the upper intake to become wet with fuel. In carbureted applications, this is typically accomplished with a spraybar plate mounted between the carburetor base and the intake manifold, while cars fitted with electronic fuel injection often use a plate mounted between the manifold and the base of the throttle body, or a single nozzle mounted in the intake tract. However, most makes of nitrous systems combined with unsuitable intake designs, often result in distribution problems and/or intake backfires. Dry-flow intakes are designed to contain only air, which will travel through smaller pipes and tighter turns with less pressure, whereas wet-flow intakes are designed to contain a mixture of fuel and air. Wet nitrous systems tend to produce more power than dry systems, but in some cases can be more expensive and difficult to install.
A wet nozzle differs in the way that it takes in both nitrous and fuel which are metered by jets to create a perfect or proper air-fuel ratio (AFR).
Newer wet nitrous kits on domestic cars have become increasingly easy to install by pulling fuel via the schrader valve on the fuel rail which is normally designated as a fuel test port. It makes plumbing and using a wet nitrous kit much more simple.
Wet direct port
A wet direct port nitrous system introduces nitrous and fuel directly into each intake port on the engine. These systems are also known as direct port nitrous systems. Normally, these systems combine nitrous and fuel through several nozzles similar in design to a wet single-point nozzle, which mixes and meters the nitrous and fuel delivered to each cylinder individually, allowing each cylinder's nitrous/fuel ratio to be adjusted without affecting the other cylinders. Note that there are still several ways to introduce nitrous through a direct port system. There are several different types of nozzles and placements ranging from fogger nozzles that requires one to drill and tap the manifold, to specialty direct port E.F.I. nozzles that fit into the fuel injector ports along with the fuel injectors.
A multi-point system is the most powerful type of nitrous system, due to the placement of the nozzle in each runner, as well as the ability to use more and higher capacity solenoid valves. Wet multi-point kits can go as high as 3,000 horsepower (2,400 kW) with only one stage, but most produce less than half that amount with two, three or even four stages.[citation needed] These systems are also the most complex and expensive systems, requiring significant modification to the engine, including adding distribution blocks and solenoid assemblies, as well as drilling, tapping and constructing plumbing for each cylinder runner. These systems are most often used on racing vehicles specially built to take the strain of such high power levels. Many high-horsepower race applications will use more than one nozzle per cylinder, plumbed in stages to allow greater control of how much power is delivered with each stage. A two-stage system will actually allow three different levels of additional horsepower; for example, a small first stage can be used in first gear to prevent excessive wheelspin, then turned off in favor of a larger second stage once the car is moving. In top gear, both stages can be activated at the same time for maximum horsepower. A more recent improvement on the staged concept from WON is the progressive delivery system, which allows a simpler single stage system to act even better than multiple stages, delivering a smoothly progressive increase in power which is adjustable to suit the user requirements.
Reliability concerns:
As all modifications to increase power, the use of nitrous oxide carries with it concerns about the reliability and longevity of an engine. Due to the greatly increased cylinder pressures, the engine as a whole is placed under greater stress, especially the parts involved with the combustion chamber. An engine with components not able to cope with the increased stress imposed by the use of nitrous systems can experience major engine damage, such as cracked or destroyed pistons, connecting rods, or crankshafts.
Even if the engine is up to the task, severe damage can occur if a problem occurs in the fuel system; an engine running with nitrous oxide depends heavily on the proper air to fuel ratio to prevent detonation from occurring. For example, if the engine's fuel supply was to be reduced, this would cause the engine to run lean by whatever degree the fuel delivery was reduced by which can lead to engine knock or detonation. Depending on the engine, this may only need to occur for a matter of seconds before major damage occurs.
Despite these concerns, most modern OEM engines can reliably handle a nitrous power increase in the region of 50%, especially when that power is delivered using progressive control
This is what I have done so far to reduce weight.
91 OEM NSX Curb Weight 3010lbs
1991 NSX- S/R New Weight: 2795
Diet / Weight Saving program my NSX just went thru below:
Spare Tire/Wheel ('91-'93) (removed) -29.4 lbs
Spare Tire Mounting Bracket (removed) -3 lbs
Air Pump, (removed) -9 lbs
Entire Tool Kit with Jack (removed) -14 lbs
Floor mats (left and right) and Trunk Mat (Removed when at the track) -12.4 lbs
Engine Cover -25 lbs
Add Odyssey 680 battery(+14.7) & Remove(-35lbs OEM battery) -20.3 lbs
Z-TEK Headers and Remove OEM headers -12 lbs
Remove Cats w/shields- add Comptech Test Pipes (with 02 bung hole) -22 lbs
Custom S/R Race Exhaust & Remove OEM Exhaust -23 lbs
Carbon Fiber NSX-R wing (+6.8) and remove OEM wing -7.2lbs
NSX-R Carbon Fiber Hood and Remove OEM hood -5 lbs
Remove OEM steering wheel & Airbag & add Zero-Mass CF Steeringwheel -17-19 lbs Estimated
Remove OEM rear beam & Replace with STMPO Aluminum Replacement Beam - 15lbs
Next on the list is to do some maintiance Full 90K with timing belt and water pump and all the hoses and all the things I read recommended at this time. Which is getting done as we speak At Niguel Motors.
Here is the list:
Which includes :
Replace ALL hoses
Replace timing belt, water pump,
adjust valves,
replace valve cover seals,
replace rear cam seals,
replace Vtec seals,
replace oil pressure sending unit seals,
replace alternator and A/C belts.
Change Fuel Filter,Bleed and flush cooling system
Replace Cam plugs
Replace Vtec Gasket set
Replace Oil pan Gasket
Repace TENSIONER
Replace THERMOSTAT
Replace SPARK PLUG SEALS
Replace VTEC O-RINGS
Replace SPOOL VALVE O-RINGS
drain & refill transmission Fluids
Replace fuel filter
take a look at the V-tech solenoids
bleed brake fluid
bleed and cycle ABS system
check and set parking brake adjustment
Transmission is Getting Shipped to LEVELTEN Racing to be built to handle 500hp.
Here is LEVELTEN WEBSITE:
http://www.levelten.com/AcuraTransmission_p/acu-ja1800-1000p.htm
I Will have the fastest auto NSX in the World.
Got My Meth Kit ordered from Wil (Angus) with my custom aluminum 3.5 gallon tank that goes where the tool box does.
You can see it here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55070&d=1241575422
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55069&d=1241575379
NEXT IS THE TURBO KIT .......NEXT 2 WEEK ON MORE ON THAT as its still in the air on few things...
Project NSX-R/T
- APX Methenol Kit with Custom 3.5 g aluminum tank
- BURNS LIGHTWEIGHT PERFORMANCE EXHAUST
- Air to Air Intercooler
- AEM boost Controller Guage
- STEEL BRAIDED OIL LINE AND A/N FITTINGS LINES WITH black COLORED FITTINGS AND Black EVERYTHING COLOR WISE ON COUPLERS ETC...
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