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bogle's 1991 mild build thread

Thanks! The seats, lol. They are the same, but I have the drivers seat one hole lower on the rear. The drivers seat is as low as it goes (and still not low enough for me), but it was a lot of work to get it that low and have it not interfere with everything. The passenger seat already interferes with everything and I just haven’t spent the time to make it match the height. It looks goofy, but I would rather spend that day on something else. Maybe someday I’ll get some skinnier seats that fit a little better. If these were 1/2” narrower, they’d be fine
We are living the same nightmare lol. My driver seat is ok, but I need to do something about the passenger seat. And, I feel like both seats need to recline more, but my mounting brackets don't have high enough holes... I wish the seats were 1/2" narrower too.
 
Yeah they are a total pain. You have pole positions, right?

I lust over seats every now and then. The best options for me are probably the Recaro RS-G or maybe the bride zeta 4. Both of them seem skinny enough to get on the floor and not hit the door panels. I just don’t know how I fit in them (tall, wide shoulders, skinny waist). The RS-Gs have really high shoulder harness holes, which is good for me, and there are a couple blingy JDM options based on it (ASM, mugen). The brides are cool too, but maybe a little too boy racer for the car. Also might want to avoid bachelorette party jokes from non car people, you know?
 
Yeah they are a total pain. You have pole positions, right?

I lust over seats every now and then. The best options for me are probably the Recaro RS-G or maybe the bride zeta 4. Both of them seem skinny enough to get on the floor and not hit the door panels. I just don’t know how I fit in them (tall, wide shoulders, skinny waist). The RS-Gs have really high shoulder harness holes, which is good for me, and there are a couple blingy JDM options based on it (ASM, mugen). The brides are cool too, but maybe a little too boy racer for the car. Also might want to avoid bachelorette party jokes from non car people, you know?
Nope- they are my feaux-S reproductions. Basically a NRG FRP-300 shell (it was the closest match in shape to the Honda Recaro) wrapped in kevlar and re-upholstered with genuine leather and ultrasuede. The seat dimensions are identical to the Recaro ABE. I have so much time, effort and cost into them that I will keep them, but I wish they were overall 10mm narrower everywhere. They are super comfortable though- I'm fat right now (6'1" 220, 36W) and they still fit great.

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Nice, they look great! For some reason I thought they were a PP frame. The ABE / ABE style seats are the only seats that look totally proper in the car, too bad they're just a bit big. My Evo 2's are also super comfortable, so hesitant to pull the trigger on new seats until i can sit in a few.
 
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Film! I got the film pics back and there were a couple good ones. This is Pentax K1000 + 85mm lens with Portra 400. First time with portra 400 and it looks a little more serious than the Kodak 200. Kodak 200 has more of a "your mom took disposable camera pics at your 8th birthday party" vibe. Definitely has a place, but I think this is the go to film from now on

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🍑

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Same same, different angle

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🧽: "Ight imma head out"

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More tuning

Well instead of faffing around with cameras, here's a proper tinkering update. If you've been following along, earlier this year I got the SoS Link installed, running, and pretty drivable by tuning from the o2 correction values. The next step was to tune tip in / accel fuel, that is: how quickly does it blend when you stab the throttle?

Generally throttle response was ok, but a little on the doughy side. It was worst when going from vacuum to boost at lowish RPM.

I’m not a super advanced tuner and have usually tuned tip in by feel. The basic gist being: if it bogs, too rich; if it hesitates / skips, it’s too lean; if it feels good, it’s probably fine and I should spend time on something else.

The car bogged, so it was a little too rich. The wideband would show a brief lean spike, go way rich (high 9s - low 10s), then even out to target AFRs (11.5 in boost). This little half throttle stab does a pretty good job illustrating:

tip in accel.jpg

Based on experience with other ECUs, this would tell me the tip in fueling was correcting too much and / or too late. The weird thing, though, was that out of the box, tip in fueling was basically off. It hardly ever added any correction to the final fuel value, even with very large TPS movements. WTF?

Turns out the Link ECU has a “wall wetting” feature. When set correctly, you may not need any / much tip in correction. It’s only a single parameter: percent 0-100. The SoS basemap had it set to 10%, and tip-in correction turned way down. Cool, but the lack of wall wetting timing control made me nervous: if I turn it down, will the lean spike be worse? Why can’t I just have it wet those walls earlier?

I decided to experiment with it. What happens if I do turn it down?

But before messing with it, I figured I’d turn off O2 correction. Up until this point I’d been tuning with O2 correction ON (closed loop). O2 correction values in boost were showing that it was pulling about 1% fuel, indicating the fuel tables were pretty close.

I did a little driving and a few pulls at different boost levels with the O2 correction off. Fuel in vacuum was good enough, yay:

vacuum is fine.jpg

Fuel in boost was rich, though, especially at lower RPM. Maybe tuning from O2 correction values in boost isnt so accurate...

boost too rich.jpg

And, strangely, the rear bank was even richer in boost (it’s leaner in vacuum):

boost too rich rear bank.png

After several passes pulling fuel and messing with the VTEC crossover to smooth things out (the Link uses 2 fuel tables), I got it to a pretty good place. A chart of a couple quick stabs, it’s a lot better:

after chart better.jpg

And here are the logged AFRs cautiously working up from partial throttle 4psi to full boost (~8.6). There are some weird cells in there caused by transitions (e.g. letting off the throttle between shifts). But other than that, it doesn’t get a whole lot better than this, as far as hitting AFR targets goes:

after table all better.png

Guess what? Tip-in feels really good now, legit throttle response is back. I didn’t even change the wall wetting, it was probably doing its job. What was happening? O2 correction disables on large TPS changes, so it’d run open loop for a bit, go rich because of the tables, then the O2 correction would catch up and lean it out to the target.

There is still sometimes a small lean spike, but it’s not consistent enough to mess with, and not causing a skip, so all good. Maybe I’ll play with the wall wetting in the future out of curiosity, but it feels real good now.

Next stuff

I’ve been moving pretty slow on car projects this year. The next logical step is to take it for a proper dyno session. I have some new bad ideas, though, they will need to happen before the dyno. It’s looking like end of the year or early next before it goes to the dyno.

In the meantime, I got a brand new OEM carpet from Mita, and a few new interior bits to go along with it. Those should go in over the next couple months.
 
it's probably way too hot for a dyno session anyway. love your progress. your process is very familiar to mine but even more methodological which i guess tells volumes LOL
Yeah it’s true, I’d take it to driving ambition and he’s in Sacramento. I’m sure it’s been like 110F there the last few weeks. Your new motor looks and sounds awesome!
 
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