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clutch
- Thread starter cagedrex
- Start date
I have a spec stage 2. It seems to engage when the pedal is almost completely released and pedal pressure is higher. The clutch chatters like crazy when new, but chatters less now.
I am not too thrilled with this clutch and am considering going back to the OEM. The OEM was much easier to drive on the streets.
I am not too thrilled with this clutch and am considering going back to the OEM. The OEM was much easier to drive on the streets.
The vast majority of NSX owners are running the OEM clutch. It's the best all-around clutch for stock/near stock power applications. I would not recommend any other clutch unless the power requirements dictated it...period.
okay but this is the third clutch this car has broken,what to do?
I believe burning cluches out has more to do with the driver than the cluch.
thanks but i think after 8 years of racing and and 18 years of driving i think i know how to use a clutch ,it's not burnt it's broken
What do you mean by "broken"? Is it slipping or will it not function? I am going to assume it's slipping for the sake of this response.
Are you saying you have gone through three OEM clutches? In what time period and over how many miles? What kind of power are you running?
The OEM clutch can last anywhere from 20K miles to 125K miles depending on driving style. It's a Honda part and extremely high quality. If you've blown through three clutches in less than, say, 175K miles I'd say driving style is to blame.
There are few, if any, aftermarket cltuches that are going to last longer than the OEM. If you continue to drive in the fashion you are driving they will last just as long as the clutches you've gone through up to this point.
i have only had the car for two months i don't drive it extremly hard as i have a race car for that ,when i say broken i mean broken the clutch disk where the springs are broke . the clutch broke on the last owner in the same fasion about five years ago (just a guess ) he never drove the car very much. I have only put about 5000 km on it ,so i would guess the clutch has about 15000 total km .the clutch still has lots of meet left so it can't have that many km on it
I really don't understand what 8 years of racing and 18 years of driving has to do with anything if you're having such cluch problems. Bye the way, I was racing before you were born.
Please review the comments by NSXGMS. If you're blowing through three cluches you don't know how to use a NSX cluch, regardless of how much you've raced or driven.:tongue:
So the part is failing and you personally have only gone through one clutch after 5K km. This is pertinent information. Please try to lay it all out in the original post so that we don't have to go back and forth and take days to repsond.
This is almost certainly not an OEM clutch. If it is, it wasn't installed correctly. Since it's not a difficult install it's probably not an OEM clutch. Nor was the clutch prior to that if the previous owner also had clutch failure--twice.
Go buy an OEM clutch and have it installed by someone who knows what they're doing (tell us where you live and we'll point you in the right direction). The part and the labor will have warranties. You should not be experiencing part failure after 15K km from an OEM clutch installed by any NSX tech with half a brain. That's extremely uncommon and atypical. If OEM clutches are failing there's something else wrong that needs to be addressed ASAP.
it depends on how you drive the car.
if you do clutch drops and high rpm slips for racing, you definitly can bust the stock clutch.
if you know how to drive the car and dont race.... the clutch should defintily NOT be braking at the springs.
this usually only happens during high rpm launches. i broke mine with off the line launch.
this is why i use a soild clutch disk, no springs :smile:
but there are still other things to brake besides the friction disk.
if you know your going to abuse the car/clutch with racing i would go aftermarket with a friction material built to handle the extra abuse.
the springs on a solid high quality clutch will not brake under normal/abusive driving conditions.
i would bet that your clutch is probably not an oem but a cheap knock off... unless you drop the clutch or do launches.
if you do clutch drops and high rpm slips for racing, you definitly can bust the stock clutch.
if you know how to drive the car and dont race.... the clutch should defintily NOT be braking at the springs.
this usually only happens during high rpm launches. i broke mine with off the line launch.
this is why i use a soild clutch disk, no springs :smile:
but there are still other things to brake besides the friction disk.
if you know your going to abuse the car/clutch with racing i would go aftermarket with a friction material built to handle the extra abuse.
the springs on a solid high quality clutch will not brake under normal/abusive driving conditions.
i would bet that your clutch is probably not an oem but a cheap knock off... unless you drop the clutch or do launches.
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Yes, if the clutch has been beat on massively it could fail in this fashion. I believe the OP that he personally isn't beating on it but perhaps the previous owner did and it was on its last legs when the OP acquired it. The OP mentioned the previous owner has had several clutch failures.
But I also would guess that the clutch is almost certainly not OEM and the previous owner probably didn't baby it.
So which clutch are you braking? NA1 dual disc or late model single disc?
na1 dual disk ,broke the outer one in two places
And you know this because the exact part number is on the Acura invoice? Or the tech confirmed it is an Acura clutch? Or is it possible the previous owner brought in his own clutch for Acura to install?
If the OEM clutch is failing it's because it's being beat on very hard or there's something else majorly wrong that any tech will easily see. Do not think an aftermarket clutch is going to last as long or have as much quality as the OEM clutch.
The bottom line is that the clutch failure you're describing is due to either a crap clutch or crap driving. I suspect the previous owner beat the clutch hard and I'm even assuming it was an OEM clutch. I believe your claim that you don't beat on the clutch since you haven't had the car long enough to destroy the clutch even if you wanted to.
If you drive normally with stock power the OEM clutch is probably the best option. If you beat on the car even an AM clutch will fail prematurely. Under normal driving conditions the OEM clutch will last as long or longer than any AM option on the market and is a Honda quality part that has lasted well over 100K miles for many, many, many owners, including myself.
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