Did this problem start happening when you changed the battery? If so, then you might want to try another battery. BTW, checking battery voltage isn't sufficient to determine if the battery is good. It can tell you if the battery is bad. If you get 12.6V, the next step is to load test it. Also, is the battery that you are using rated with sufficient CCA's?
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Dead battery again
- Thread starter iroar
- Start date
The problem started with my one year old Optima red under cold weather conditions, just like the previous time in December/January 2007/8 when I replaced my first Optima red. This has happened only in cold weather conditions and I am suspecting only after the car has been parked for a few days.
This time around, we changed the Optima with an off shelf Weicker battery from Battery Plus temporarily and it seemed to be OK though it was cranked only twice in a month. We replaced it with a brand new Odyssey 925 manufactured in November 2009 and worked fine the first day. A week later it worked fine too. Parked the car for 4-5 days and the cell codes came on first cranking. The cells were cleared, the Odyssey battery was on battery tender the next 4-5 days, fully charged and the cell codes came again when cranked in cold weather. The Odyssey was tested by Battetry Plus and again by the dealer. The battery is good - even though its CCA is not as high as other batteries. It worked today in the morning with no cell codes even though it was parked outside in the dealer's lot overnight.
The only established variable so far seems to be the cold weather; both in 2007/8 and 2009/10. I installed the CTSC in mid 2007, so this could be another variable perhaps; cold weather cranking with a CTSC? Will check the mapping etc. .....
I am still suspecting that perhaps the time interval between starts may be at issue too; it oddly didn't do it when it was in the shop for a month, and it doesn't seem to be doing if the car is cranked within 24 hours per today's experience. Yet it will do so in my garage after it stays for 4-5 days when the weather has been cold. I will try tomorrow morning to see if this is a key variable or not; otherwise, I have to hire garage ghostbusters LOL!
This time around, we changed the Optima with an off shelf Weicker battery from Battery Plus temporarily and it seemed to be OK though it was cranked only twice in a month. We replaced it with a brand new Odyssey 925 manufactured in November 2009 and worked fine the first day. A week later it worked fine too. Parked the car for 4-5 days and the cell codes came on first cranking. The cells were cleared, the Odyssey battery was on battery tender the next 4-5 days, fully charged and the cell codes came again when cranked in cold weather. The Odyssey was tested by Battetry Plus and again by the dealer. The battery is good - even though its CCA is not as high as other batteries. It worked today in the morning with no cell codes even though it was parked outside in the dealer's lot overnight.
The only established variable so far seems to be the cold weather; both in 2007/8 and 2009/10. I installed the CTSC in mid 2007, so this could be another variable perhaps; cold weather cranking with a CTSC? Will check the mapping etc. .....
I am still suspecting that perhaps the time interval between starts may be at issue too; it oddly didn't do it when it was in the shop for a month, and it doesn't seem to be doing if the car is cranked within 24 hours per today's experience. Yet it will do so in my garage after it stays for 4-5 days when the weather has been cold. I will try tomorrow morning to see if this is a key variable or not; otherwise, I have to hire garage ghostbusters LOL!
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I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out this problem as well since it is so intermittent. I am experiencing the same exact problems.
In cold weather or under all weather conditions though intermittently? How about time intervals between cranking? What tests have you done/eliminated thus far?
The problem is intermittent in all weather conditions. I started having the problem last year. I talked to Shad and Bob and they suggested changing out my battery. So Driving Ambition installed a new battery, I can't recall which Odyssey they installed at the moment, and the problem seemed to go away for awhile. A few weeks later after the car had been sitting for a week, the problem came back. I took the car to my Honda mechanic who has NSX experience and he performed all of the battery tests you did. At first he thought it might be the battery once again since he said that he was getting below 10V during cranking. He hooked it up to a battery tender and the problem seemed to go away until a few weeks ago the problem came back. After I got the car back from him the car would sit idle for a few days and would be fine when I went to drive it. However, the car sat for about a week and the problem came back.
So I bought a battery tender and hooked it up. No issues up until last week, and that was after the battery was on the tender. I have found that if I rev the car around 3000 rpm when starting it the problem goes away. Or, like you, once the car warms up the problem will go away.
This guy seemed to have the same problem but I don't recall him posting any updates...he also has an Autorotor set-up.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119973
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Interesting reading this thread:
This guy seemed to have the same problem but I don't recall him posting any updates...he also has an Autorotor set-up.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119973
Ryan, I see you have had the problem for some time now. Albeit mine seems to be only in cold weather. I suggested to the dealer using a fuel line cleaner but they said the fuel flow was fine. So were the valves.
Will bump that thread to see if there is any update.
This guy seemed to have the same problem but I don't recall him posting any updates...he also has an Autorotor set-up.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119973
Ryan, I see you have had the problem for some time now. Albeit mine seems to be only in cold weather. I suggested to the dealer using a fuel line cleaner but they said the fuel flow was fine. So were the valves.
Will bump that thread to see if there is any update.
For reference:
My '91 is 63 mA as well with a Smartenna and Grom ipod interface. The rest of the car is stock.
I charge my car for 1 hour a day using a simple battery charger plugged into light timer. I do this all winter long and batteries have lasted as long as 9 years. A battery tender is better as it charges on a required basis. I am just too cheep to buy one.
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For reference, mine read 27 mAmp when tested by the dealer. Totally stock as far as electrical are concerned.
All the diagnostics at the dealer showed fine, and of course it didn't do it there overnight but in did issue misfire codes in my garage the next day!
It is at Shad for diagnostics; we are suspecting a grounding issue perhaps per the other thread.
All the diagnostics at the dealer showed fine, and of course it didn't do it there overnight but in did issue misfire codes in my garage the next day!
It is at Shad for diagnostics; we are suspecting a grounding issue perhaps per the other thread.
Can't wait to hear what Shad finds.
I am having similiar problems of the car going dead sans battery tender after about 6-7 days. I do have an voltmeter, but have not used it a lot.
Anyone want to outline what I need to do with the meter to help diagnose the problem? :smile:
Anyone want to outline what I need to do with the meter to help diagnose the problem? :smile:
You really need a mili Amp meter to trouble shoot, does your meter have that function? First off I would load test the battery, Autozone will do it for free, just show them the jump start terminal in the engine bay. Lots easier to get to then the battery.
I have this one....just not real adept on how to use it or what I need to measure.
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/3320multimeter.php
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http://www.jcwhitney.com/auto-rangi...15&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=278515
OK, so I think I figured out how to measure the mAMP draw on car which was 27 mAMPS. I think from my reading this is within normal range.
Prior measurements on a 7 day period sans starting the car, my battery went from 12.60 volts to 12.26 volts.
I have had the car go dead with some varying intervals ranging from what seems 5-8 days. It sat at the dealer for 6 days and showed no drain. I am starting to think it is an intermittent device that is "turning on" and not a continuous draw.
Prior measurements on a 7 day period sans starting the car, my battery went from 12.60 volts to 12.26 volts.
I have had the car go dead with some varying intervals ranging from what seems 5-8 days. It sat at the dealer for 6 days and showed no drain. I am starting to think it is an intermittent device that is "turning on" and not a continuous draw.
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