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Electrical Problems / Gremlins / Please help!

Joined
23 October 2000
Messages
224
Location
Irvine, CA
Here's one for the guru's on the board - a few days ago, went to start the car - key position 1, all was normal.. key position 2, nothing, no engine turning sound. Noticed that in position 1, battery was showing ~10volts. Jumped the car and that worked to start it, appeared to idle fine until it started to overheat. Turned off car and started researching on NSXPrime.

Figured to clean the (heavily) corroded battery connectors since the starter wasn't turning over and figured in might have been a simpled grounding problem. Removed the battery and baking-soda'd the connectors this morning, put the battery back in, and VOILA! car started up find.

Turned car off, removed key, and noticed what appeared to be a turn signal clicking. Closed and locked the door but clicking was stil present. Open'd the door and the chime sound came on (as if the key was in the ignition).

Put the key in, and started the car. Car started fine, but noticed that the head units on my stock stereo were dimming and lighted in sync with what appeared to be the turn signal clicking.

Took this video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xss_hpbmyCA


Notice the timing of the chimes changes drastically. Any advice on how to proceed would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
replace the battery. do you have an aftermarket alarm of any kind?


Hmm... I just found another post for which this was the solution (the battery), but the weird behavior continues even after the car is started. The sound I identified as the hazards, they are flashing regardless of whether car is started or not.

The dash and interor lights also flicker in sync with the hazards while the car is started.

The car does have a V1 and an aftermarket alarm ...

Second question: Is it safe to drive the vehicle notwithstanding all these electrical issues (to get it to a shop) or is there a possibility that a critical system will fail while driving and seriously damage the car?
 
Check the relay(s) controlling your signals/hazards/ignition. Pull the relay and see if you are still getting a closed signal. If you are, trace back the wires to see if anything is not grounded properly or rubbing. This problem sounds very similar to the electrical problems I had, only in another part of the car. Try reading through this thread especially the part where mine was fixed.
 
Ok... I'm assuming this would be the "Lighting Relay" in the main compartment. Do I just pull the sucker out or do i need to press somewhere to release it?

Thanks... sorry for the novice questions...
 
Activate then deactivate your alarm. Then open door with key and relock a couple times. Often alarms will mess things up after complete power loss when changing battery. Usually when stock alarms do this you get the hazard clicking and the fuel will cut off after a couple seconds to prevent theft and alarm disable by disconnecting the battery. I don't know what type of alarm you have but I doubt it has fuel cutout, but should have power disconnect protection.
 
Wow... the alarm coupled with a grounding issue (I had unhooked the horn ground to quell the alarm after the problems started) coupled with a corroded ground on the battery may have been the issue. Here's my sequence of events:

1. Corrosion on ground post of battery building up finally severs a strong ground connection to the battery.

2. Trying to start car (with no engine cranking) and flashing interiors alerts me to a poor grounding connection. Weak connection on battery triggers aftermarket alarm, I unground alarm to shut it up.

3. Jumping the car gets it started, but car over-heats after idling for 30 minutes. After I shut car down, engine still won't crank itself leading me (with the help of NSXPrime Gurus) to conclude battery problems.

3. Cleaning the posts and reconnecting battery solves some electrical problems allowing engine to start BUT, ungrounded aftermarket alarm horn introduces tons of other problems.

4. Grounding horn (which caused it to start chirping again) causes electrical gremlins to disappear, but required the a few clicks of the aftermarket disarm to turn-off.

I just took her for a spin and she didn't over heat, and no acting up of electronics either. All circuits closed when I shut the car down, so I think I'm good ....

THANK YOU GUYS MUCH FOR THE HELP!
 
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