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Fuel Filter Banjo Bolt Alignment

25 April 2005
Western PA
Hello. I have a question please.

I've searched through the forums, but have not found anything about my specific question. If I missed something, please be kind - this is my first post even though this website and you all have been invaluable when I was looking for my NSX (I've already joined NSXCA)!

OK - I decided to replace the fuel filter on my '92 NSX with ~65k miles. The 60k service was completed by the previous owner at an Acura delaership and they listed "fuel filter replacement" in the work order. However, an examination of the parts list on the receipt did not turn up a fuel filter. It didn't look new, so I just bought another one from my local Acura dealer.

What a pain to change it. Some of the threads here were helpful about suggesting to remove the engine cooling fan, but I was just able to avoid that. I was thinking it would take me 1/2 hour like a regular car, but this turned into almost 2 hours.

My problem arose when I went to install the banjo bolt on the outlet of the new filter that goes to the engine (with the new washers of course). I couldn't get the bolt to align exactly with the fuel hose connection such that it is a straight shot into the hose. It's about 1 or 2 degrees off-center. In this configuration, the fuel pressure is fine, but I may have reduced the flow rate of the fuel slightly.

I was able to get the inlet fuel hose to the fuel filter perfect and torqued to the recommended 28 ft-lbs. I think the outlet is torqued to about 40 ft-lbs trying to get it lined up. It's interesting to note that getting off the inlet to the old filter was difficult because the (factory?) had it torqued down to about 40 ft-lbs to get it lined up correctly.

I don't think I can torque it any more without doing some damage to the filter or rounding off the head. It's only off by a few degrees and the outlet of the banjo bolt and the inlet of the fuel line are both countersunk so they are somewhat flared (which helps the fuel flow).

I haven't had any codes thrown yet about being too lean and it drives fine. Someday I would like to get it dyno'd.

Should I take it back apart and get some thinner washers? Has anybody else encountered this?

Thank you,

Hi Dave,

I need to understand what you mean by 1-2 degrees off center? If the banjo has sealed properly and fuel is not running all over the place the fitting is installed correctly. If it was crossthreaded you would have a real mess on your hands, since it would not seal.

Also the torque spec is 20 ft.lbs. 28 is Newton Meters:). Do not evaluate the torque setting used by the torque it may take to get it off. That is not correct. Remember you have "crush washers" what will add friction during removal.

Just for reference I use an impact gun to get these off is about 3 seconds, then they torque back up to 20 ft.lbs. about as easily. I use a swivel extension with a short 17mm 3/8 drive socket.

Crush washers come with the kit (5), those are the only ones to use.

On the early cars I will remove the fan(may have been my post you read) because it is just such a PITA with the fan in place. The newer cars do not have the fan.

Thanks for the replies guys. There are no leaks and I didn't cross-thread. I don't think I'm communicating my problem correctly.

Oh, I did torque it to 20 ft-lbs. I don't know why but the 28 stuck in my head! I took the other bolt to about 40 ft-lbs to try and get it aligned.

The (poor) diagram below shows what I mean by the bolt and fitting not being centered correctly in the Top View sketch. I guess I could grind on the fuel filter tabs that hold the fuel line centered.

Like Brian and Larry said, ignore the alighnment. I use one of these-
google the words "honda banjo tool" and you'll find them for uner 20 bucks.
Makes the job REAL easy.



  • tool.bmp
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Here's a close-up of a banjo.
Notice the hollow inside, so it doesn't matter how the bolt is positioned.
With other words, the fuel can go around the bolt, inside the banjo.

DutchBlackNsx said:
Here's a close-up of a banjo.
Notice the hollow inside, so it doesn't matter how the bolt is positioned.
With other words, the fuel can go around the bolt, inside the banjo.

Cool! I didn't notice that when I had it apart.

Anything other than a straight path is restrictive to fuel flow. It helps to know that there is at least another path (albeit slightly more restrictive) and I didn't block off a lot of flow area by having it a few degrees off-center. The combination of only being off a few degrees with the hollowed bolt doesn't make me worry so much now about being lean at WOT.

Also thanks for the tip about the banjo tool. If I do this 4 years down the road again I'll have to get one of those.