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Issue with VTEC errors / slugish power - solved!

Joined
19 July 2022
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63
Just sharing here in case anyone else hit this issue. Big thanks to user BTL3.0 for all the help and selling me coil packs!

A few months ago I was on my way to a car show and the check engine light lit up. I was in the far left lane in 5th, but I managed to get to a nearby exit and shut down the car. In restarting the error didn't come back and all gauges looked happy so I went to the show and drove it home and it didn't do it again. In checking the codes the next day they were clear, so I chalked it up to something to keep an eye on.

About a month ago the check engine light came back, so this time we read it and found it was complaining about the front VTEC solenoid. I ordered a replacement and had it installed. I got the car back and nothing had changed.

I then went through all the coil packs one at a time and found some rust on the cylinder 1 coil and replaced that. None of this changed the symptoms of the issue.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that the car was getting hard to start. Normally I can blip the ignition a couple of times and it fires right up. Now I found that I had to pump the gas to get it to fire. Hmmm. I had also recently noticed that when filling the tank I had to pull the pump out a bit or it would shut itself off. I figured that was likely the evap canister, but made a note to add it to the list of symptoms.

Last week the car got to the point where it was sputtering and intermittently bogging at anything under 3K RPM, and the check engine light was now tripping on both the front and rear solenoid. I figured at this point it was the fuel pump. As my mechanic didn't have a gauge that would fit the fuel filter on the '91 I ordered a gauge to leave installed on the car. This showed the pressure right at 30 which is low (should be 35 to 40 at idle). I had also already ordered an OEM pump from Japan that got here faster than expected, so I took that down to the shop and asked them to put it in. The mechanic that's been working on the car was skeptical, but agreed it was worth a shot. He finished up the car yesterday AM and I've been driving it ever since.

It not only resolved the issue, but it runs better than it did when I got it last year. Throttle is even more immediate, and the flywheel feels like it spins up faster (may be placebo but I'll take it).

As to the original pump that failed, they found that it was a Walbro aftermarket pump that may have gotten dried up (left with no fuel in the tank) when it was stored before I got it.

Hope this helps someone else. Also do yourself a favor and replace the pump with OEM parts. It's a pain and expensive to drop the tank, so you don't want to do that more than once. Chances are the OEM pump will outlive me...
 
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Great to hear you got it sorted out. As our NSXs age, the fuel pumps are starting to get weak and/or fail. Usually, you start seeing fatigue around 100,000 miles, but I see yours was an aftermarket pump. Any idea how many miles on it?
 
Great to hear you got it sorted out. As our NSXs age, the fuel pumps are starting to get weak and/or fail. Usually, you start seeing fatigue around 100,000 miles, but I see yours was an aftermarket pump. Any idea how many miles on it?
It couldn't have been too many, as the car only has 48K on it. My guess is they upgraded the stock pump to the higher flow pump to get better fuel pressure. Otherwise I have no idea how they could have worn out the stock pump in so few miles?

Now I have a gauge for that, so going forward I'll not have to guess. Hopefully this ensures it never comes up again, as it seems once you sort a solution and a way to monitor it, it never recurs...
 
What does the pressure gauge indicate now with the new OEM pump?
 
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So glad you got it sorted. I was wondering myself when your fuel injectors were last cleaned. Your symptoms sounded a lot like mine before I got mine changed. I was wondering if they might be contributing as well.
 
Your idle fuel pressure falls within spec; but, at the bottom end of being within spec (36 - 44 psi). Have you replaced the fuel filter? With a fresh fuel filter you should also carry out the regulator test where you disconnect the manifold reference line and the pressure should rise to 46 - 53 psi.

If everything tests out OK, I would do a reset on the ECU to reset the stored long term fuel trims. If you had persistent low pressure the engine will run lean and the ECU will have accumulated + trim values to try and correct this. If you have corrected fuel pressure then the + trims will cause the engine to run with a lower than normal AFR. Resetting the trims should return it to closer to normal. You don't absolutely need to do this because the ECU will eventually bring the trims back to the required values; however, you may soot up your plugs a bit in the mean time.

Don't do the reset until you confirm the fuel pressure regulator passes the test. Your pressures still look a little low to me.
 
I was trying to read the gauge without my glasses on. In checking Today the pressure shows over 40 at idle:
Fuel pressure new pump.jpg
It's like a new car. I don't think it ran this well when I took delivery last year. You could previously feel a little blip when it went to VTEC, where now it's just a smooth power band from bottom to top end. Just in time to put it away for the season! (I'll keep it out until the 1st snow flake).
 
FWIW, I'm seeing a lot of fuel tank/pump replacement on T3TEC's blog lately. We might be at that point on most NSXs...
 
could be. I have no idea when they put the aftermarket pump in, but it may be that it failed prematurely as it looked fairly new. I trust the parts from Honda Japan that lasted 30+ years.
 
could be. I have no idea when they put the aftermarket pump in, but it may be that it failed prematurely as it looked fairly new. I trust the parts from Honda Japan that lasted 30+ years.
I have not heard good things about the Walbros when it comes to durability. Like you said, the OEM Densos seems to be good to about 100,000 miles and then they start to get tired. It's rarely a full blown failure.
 
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