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Midnight_Raven's Build
- Thread starter Midnight_Raven
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Well I just finished installing the seats and the rear hatch garnish. Here are the weight measurements that I got. The DF rear hatch garnish weighed 1.8lbs vs the oem hatch garnish that weighs 2lbs. Savings of .2lbs. The oem seats weighed 40lbs and 40.2lbs. The DF seats with SOS rails weighed 24lbs each. Total weight savings of 32.2lbs. So as of now my NSX should have a curb weight of about 2733lbs. Once the side scoops are replaced, which I may do tomorrow depending on how I feel, the NSX should have a curb weight of 2723lbs. 12lbs shy of NA1 NSX-R curb weight. 
Also I just realized I don't need to host the pics because I think I can just upload them to the forum lol. Here are some pics from yesterday.
Also I just realized I don't need to host the pics because I think I can just upload them to the forum lol. Here are some pics from yesterday.
Well I took a risk today and payed the price... I broke the male seat belt clip. I was trying to make the DF seats and OEM seatbelts work perfect for me. I had it almost perfect, it was just that the plastic housing for the male portion of the clip was slightly touching my hip while I was driving. I tried to bend the male piece about 10 degree's to eliminate the touching. Well it seems the metal is not only hard but BRITTLE. It snapped right where I was trying to bend it. Looks like I'll either need to buy another 3 point or consider just going for a dot approved 4 point harness.
Update: New seat belt assembly ordered. Might as well replace the oem peice so the car still have the 3 point available for future use.
Update: New seat belt assembly ordered. Might as well replace the oem peice so the car still have the 3 point available for future use.
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My transmission arrived with some small damage on it. Connector on cable broke and there are some burred edges on the case but not serious enough to bother replacing the transmission for. Acura is shipping me another cable so I can just replace it. The burrs I think I can live with.
Additionally I replaced my seat belt assembly and that good. I noticed if I slide a little more forward it eliminates my hip from touching the piece so I ended up having a work around. I'll still want to get a harness down the road.
New problem that came up. My rear wheels lugs are getting loose more often than I'm comfortable with. It may be a sign the studs are failing. Ordered ARP wheel studs and will install those when they arrive.
Also I took some pics of the NSX the other day and thought I'd share here as well.
Additionally I replaced my seat belt assembly and that good. I noticed if I slide a little more forward it eliminates my hip from touching the piece so I ended up having a work around. I'll still want to get a harness down the road.
New problem that came up. My rear wheels lugs are getting loose more often than I'm comfortable with. It may be a sign the studs are failing. Ordered ARP wheel studs and will install those when they arrive.
Also I took some pics of the NSX the other day and thought I'd share here as well.
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Update: Went autocrossing again last weekend and won first place again in the novice group. This time I was about 8 seconds slower than the guys on racing tires. A 1 second improvement compared to my first time. Feel like this is a good way to learn car control. Here is a pic I took while we were queuing up for our runs.
This morning I decided to work on my seats. A couple post before I mentioned I thought my studs were failing because I was hearing some weird clunking noise from behind and I found my lugs to be loose. The lugs were loose because there was some oil residue on the studs. I cleaned these up and now it's all better. The noise was still present though. After trying different things out I discovered it was my seat/rails causing the noise. After more investigating I discovered the noise was a two part thing. First the seats have some flex and when they were flexing they would cause the rail to tap on the base a little. I basically loosened the rails and tightened them up in a
flexed state and that noise went away. The second noise was the base of my seat hitting the floor board. I had about a 1mm to 2mm gap under my seat and the floorboard. When I sat in my seat it would barely touch. When I would go over bumps or if the car rocked back and forth a bit my body movement would cause the seat to hit the floor making a audible thud/knocking noise. Instead of lifting the seat up one slot I decided I wanted to be as low as possible so I undid the two rear bolts and sandwiched a piece of foam/padding between the seat and the floorboard. Took the car out this morning and tested it out. Noise went away or is dampened to the point that you can't hear it over the rest of the cars noises. Very happy with the fix because the noise was getting on my nerves. It was getting to the point I was like I think I rather use my accord as a daily now... which was never the case.
Additionally I went ahead and got a price quote for the roof paint. Unfortunately I'll have to wait a bit since the best painter in the shop is out recovery from back surgery. In the meantime I decided to plastidip my roof. In the process of doing it now. I finished putting the base and after 4 hours I will mask and do the glossifier. Hopefully it looks half decent so I can drive like this for a couple of months.
How paint looked this morning.
I sanded down the cracks/chips and masked roof. Cleaned roof with rubbing alcohol to get the cleanest surface possible.
1st coat of dip
2nd coat of dip
After my 4th coat of dip I removed the tape to avoid damaging the edge of the dip.
Here is how different from the gloss black the dipped roof looks like. Hopefully the glossifier will help even it out. Will update after I do the glossifier later tonight.
This morning I decided to work on my seats. A couple post before I mentioned I thought my studs were failing because I was hearing some weird clunking noise from behind and I found my lugs to be loose. The lugs were loose because there was some oil residue on the studs. I cleaned these up and now it's all better. The noise was still present though. After trying different things out I discovered it was my seat/rails causing the noise. After more investigating I discovered the noise was a two part thing. First the seats have some flex and when they were flexing they would cause the rail to tap on the base a little. I basically loosened the rails and tightened them up in a
flexed state and that noise went away. The second noise was the base of my seat hitting the floor board. I had about a 1mm to 2mm gap under my seat and the floorboard. When I sat in my seat it would barely touch. When I would go over bumps or if the car rocked back and forth a bit my body movement would cause the seat to hit the floor making a audible thud/knocking noise. Instead of lifting the seat up one slot I decided I wanted to be as low as possible so I undid the two rear bolts and sandwiched a piece of foam/padding between the seat and the floorboard. Took the car out this morning and tested it out. Noise went away or is dampened to the point that you can't hear it over the rest of the cars noises. Very happy with the fix because the noise was getting on my nerves. It was getting to the point I was like I think I rather use my accord as a daily now... which was never the case.
Additionally I went ahead and got a price quote for the roof paint. Unfortunately I'll have to wait a bit since the best painter in the shop is out recovery from back surgery. In the meantime I decided to plastidip my roof. In the process of doing it now. I finished putting the base and after 4 hours I will mask and do the glossifier. Hopefully it looks half decent so I can drive like this for a couple of months.
How paint looked this morning.
I sanded down the cracks/chips and masked roof. Cleaned roof with rubbing alcohol to get the cleanest surface possible.
1st coat of dip
2nd coat of dip
After my 4th coat of dip I removed the tape to avoid damaging the edge of the dip.
Here is how different from the gloss black the dipped roof looks like. Hopefully the glossifier will help even it out. Will update after I do the glossifier later tonight.
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You have the sos rails right ? I'm still waiting for mines to come in. What type of screw you replaced for the rails?
jizheng you might be okay. SOS is doing a new design. I'm sure they will update the bolt for those since I've informed them of the fault. I ended up going to ACE hardware and picking up class 10.9 hex head metric bolts to replace the button head screws that were supplied.
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- Joined
- 21 December 2005
- Messages
- 1,215
[MENTION=6399]Midnight_Raven[/MENTION] I would just peel that dip off, sand till its perfectly smooth (looks smooth enough from here) & wrap with gloss black. That glossifier is NOT going to make it glossy enough to match the side pillars. So the car is going to look silly w/ a semi glossish roof while the side pillars are glossed.
Okay so now the glossifier is dry, after the 8 hour cure time, and I took some pics.
Masked the roof again.
Glossifier in it's uncured state.
Glossifier in it's cured state.
Different angle. It's noticeable that it's not the same color or glossiness but then again this is only a couple month work around until I get my roof painted. Not bad for 30 dollars of dip and glossifier.
Masked the roof again.
Glossifier in it's uncured state.
Glossifier in it's cured state.
Different angle. It's noticeable that it's not the same color or glossiness but then again this is only a couple month work around until I get my roof painted. Not bad for 30 dollars of dip and glossifier.
My Shorai battery finally arrived today and I just finished putting it on. My old battery and bracket combo weighed 36.2lbs. The shoari battery, bracket, and hardware weighed a total of 6.2lbs. Therefore a weight savings of 30lbs compared to the interstate one I had on.
If my measurements are correct my curb weight should be 2802.3 lbs Oh yeah!
So next up is my 6 speed transmission and clutch and that will complete my 2nd stage of modifications for the NSX.
So for now I guess there will be a break in the action until next year, since I am trying to finish off paying my school loans this year, therefore I need to wait to save up for the transmission next year.
Here's a recent picture I took of the NSX while I went to check out a event this weekend. That Maserati looks huge next to the NSX lol
The website for this battery says they require a 13.1V at idle system but the nsx idles with around 12v so how is the battery holding up on the car?
NSX does not idle at 12V. It's actually closer to 14 like most cars. Not sure where you get that from. I've killed my Shorai. Deep cycled too many times. But they are warrantying it for me. No one has had this battery longer than I have.
Battery
Would you recommend the battery if the car is NOT a daily driver? I live in Midwest and it gets pretty cold here (-18 last winter for hours at a time) and am concerned about losing a pricey battery to the elements. I would not want to tickle charge it unless I had to.
Would you recommend the battery if the car is NOT a daily driver? I live in Midwest and it gets pretty cold here (-18 last winter for hours at a time) and am concerned about losing a pricey battery to the elements. I would not want to tickle charge it unless I had to.
Dont want to hijack raven's thread but no I would not recommend it to you. Unless you use a quick disconnect and simply are willing to lose your alarm, ecu, radio and clock settings each time. Then it will last. I don't even use my car in the winter. On good summer days you will get 10-14 days out of it without a good restart. MAX.
I used my car very often. To the point that I start it up a minimum of at least once a week. For my case this battery is fine. I know if you guys baby the car and drive it only on a nice day like once a month then maybe the battery is not meant for you. I bought the trickle charger and in the winter use that. With that said the battery has been working great for me and I'm okay with the short charge since it just means I have more of an excuse to use it .
.
I've now had the Shorai in my car for almost 2 years now and is still going strong.
The battery wouldn't be damaged due to the cold, it just wouldn't start up due to the lithium chemistry not liking extreme cold.
It's fine for a car that's only driven once a week, just not really suitable for very cold conditions.
The battery wouldn't be damaged due to the cold, it just wouldn't start up due to the lithium chemistry not liking extreme cold.
It's fine for a car that's only driven once a week, just not really suitable for very cold conditions.
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I posted this on facebook but I think you guys would appreciate it. A little video recording of my 3rd autocross for the summer. My favorite thing is you can really hear the in-cabin sound the car makes. I really like the GRF exhaust and sound deadening removal combo. It sounds awesome to me.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/l4SBE7rvbls" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Oh yeah I didn't even mention my results. So I think I'm definitely improving my driving technique. This time I was only 4 seconds slower than the guys on racing slicks. Every single event I get close and closer to the guys running racing slicks. I believe this is as close as I'll get though. Although relative to the fastest guys running street tires I was officially only 2.9 seconds behind. Could of been 2.4 seconds if I hadn't hit one cone on that run. I think my goal is to get withing 1.5seconds of the fastest guys on street tires. I doubt my NSX will ever be on equal terms with the built S2000s on an autox course but if I can get close to them I would be happy. Maybe the 6 speed will close that gap a little more next year we'll see.
Update: Autocross #4 of the year took place yesterday. Again about 4 seconds slower than the guys on slick. This time I was officially 2.7 seconds behind the fastest guy on street tires. But 2 seconds behind with one cone hit. So overall there is a time improvement from my 3rd to 4th autocross. Next one is on the 21st. We'll have to see if I can close the gap a little more then.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/l4SBE7rvbls" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Oh yeah I didn't even mention my results. So I think I'm definitely improving my driving technique. This time I was only 4 seconds slower than the guys on racing slicks. Every single event I get close and closer to the guys running racing slicks. I believe this is as close as I'll get though. Although relative to the fastest guys running street tires I was officially only 2.9 seconds behind. Could of been 2.4 seconds if I hadn't hit one cone on that run. I think my goal is to get withing 1.5seconds of the fastest guys on street tires. I doubt my NSX will ever be on equal terms with the built S2000s on an autox course but if I can get close to them I would be happy. Maybe the 6 speed will close that gap a little more next year we'll see.
Update: Autocross #4 of the year took place yesterday. Again about 4 seconds slower than the guys on slick. This time I was officially 2.7 seconds behind the fastest guy on street tires. But 2 seconds behind with one cone hit. So overall there is a time improvement from my 3rd to 4th autocross. Next one is on the 21st. We'll have to see if I can close the gap a little more then.
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Finally after much waiting for the release of the new GoPro I finally bought myself one. Picked up a GoPro Hero4 Black edition. Been playing with it for the past week. Video is great but audio is a little lacking (as expected) so I decided to buy an external mic to make it awesome. Bought an Audio-technica ATR3350iS external mic. It has a long 20' cord which makes it easy to place wherever you want it on the car. I also created a wind screen with some fake dead cat fur to help eliminate wind noise. I can't test the wind part yet since it's raining out and don't want the mic to get wet. Either way for now here is a video I made with 3 different microphone locations in my garage. 1st video is the mic in the trunk, 2nd is mic under the center light panel, and 3rd is mic directly above passenger side exhaust tip. From what it seems like the trunk one is obviously muffled. The one under the center light panel sounds good but it seems like you loose a bit of environmental sounds but I would suspect you get the least amount of wind at that location. The third one seems to capture the exhaust the best and the environment best but it's probably going to be more open to wind than the 2nd setup. Either way let me know what you guys think.
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/r3OqHwKHvGc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Picked up a GoPro Hero4 Black edition. Been playing with it for the past week. Video is great but audio is a little lacking (as expected) so I decided to buy an external mic to make it awesome. Bought an Audio-technica ATR3350iS external mic. It has a long 20' cord which makes it easy to place wherever you want it on the car. I also created a wind screen with some fake dead cat fur to help eliminate wind noise. I can't test the wind part yet since it's raining out and don't want the mic to get wet. Either way for now here is a video I made with 3 different microphone locations in my garage. 1st video is the mic in the trunk, 2nd is mic under the center light panel, and 3rd is mic directly above passenger side exhaust tip. From what it seems like the trunk one is obviously muffled. The one under the center light panel sounds good but it seems like you loose a bit of environmental sounds but I would suspect you get the least amount of wind at that location. The third one seems to capture the exhaust the best and the environment best but it's probably going to be more open to wind than the 2nd setup. Either way let me know what you guys think.<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/r3OqHwKHvGc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Preview of what I'm doing next. MRacing Type1 Mirrors.
I chose the type 1 vs any of the other styles because to me it's contoured like the NSX body and doesn't have too much of a wedge shape or a rectangular shape. For example like the spoon mirrors which to me don't look like they even match the car design or the rectangular shape like the Craft Square mirrors which again doesn't seem to match the styling of the NSX body.
I'm going to try to mount it to the triangle piece of the door and create a filler piece for the old mirror mounting location to temporarily fill in holes/indentation for the door. Should be a nice winter project. Still not sure if I'll like it but at 300-400 dollars I said why not give it a try. Hoping the mirros mounted off the door will give a clean side profile to the car. If I like it I'll keep it and if I don't I'll just sell it to someone else who might like it.
Did a quick mock up and here it how it looks with my placement. I think I'm liking this look. One downside to this mirror though is the mirror inside the housing doesn't swivel. Therefore all the mirror adjustments needs to be made with the stalk and base and not the piece of mirror itself. Reason as to why this is a downside for the mirror is I was hoping to place the mirror as low to the "hip" line as I like to call it of the car. It's a good 3 inches higher than where I think it would look good at but I think I can live with that compromise or take some material out of the mirror swivel to get it where I want with the angle I need.
I chose the type 1 vs any of the other styles because to me it's contoured like the NSX body and doesn't have too much of a wedge shape or a rectangular shape. For example like the spoon mirrors which to me don't look like they even match the car design or the rectangular shape like the Craft Square mirrors which again doesn't seem to match the styling of the NSX body.
I'm going to try to mount it to the triangle piece of the door and create a filler piece for the old mirror mounting location to temporarily fill in holes/indentation for the door. Should be a nice winter project. Still not sure if I'll like it but at 300-400 dollars I said why not give it a try. Hoping the mirros mounted off the door will give a clean side profile to the car. If I like it I'll keep it and if I don't I'll just sell it to someone else who might like it.
Did a quick mock up and here it how it looks with my placement. I think I'm liking this look. One downside to this mirror though is the mirror inside the housing doesn't swivel. Therefore all the mirror adjustments needs to be made with the stalk and base and not the piece of mirror itself. Reason as to why this is a downside for the mirror is I was hoping to place the mirror as low to the "hip" line as I like to call it of the car. It's a good 3 inches higher than where I think it would look good at but I think I can live with that compromise or take some material out of the mirror swivel to get it where I want with the angle I need.
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Just spent the last hour reading this build, great thread. I wish I had the patience and attention to detail that you do. Car looks great
I think I figured out where I want to mount the mirrors but the challenge is how to mount them there. I want to get the mirrors to be as close to the belt/hip line as possible and I think I may have an idea of how to do it. I guess I now need to figure out how to make molds and I think end up making carbon fiber pieces for the filler plates and the triangle window piece.
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