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Midnight_Raven's Build
- Thread starter Midnight_Raven
- Start date
Here is a pictures hopefully showing what I mean.
There is a faint W shape showing on the hood. This is more noticable when there is one light source and it's over the cabin of the car. If the light of the sun hits it it's not as noticable since the light is dispersed.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/38084336042/in/dateposted-public/" title="20171102_112705"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/38084336042_03b9d6c401_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20171102_112705"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
This is the underside of the hood. This frame piece is bonded to the top hood piece.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/37406435094/in/dateposted-public/" title="20171102_112723"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37406435094_104b46d90c_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20171102_112723"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
I think the problem is probably that since the bottom is made of carbon fiber and the top is made of FRP, if one or the other wants to expand or contract a little it is restricted by the other. I'm curious if anyone else with an FRP/Carbon Hood can chime in if they see this on their hoods.
There is a faint W shape showing on the hood. This is more noticable when there is one light source and it's over the cabin of the car. If the light of the sun hits it it's not as noticable since the light is dispersed.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/38084336042/in/dateposted-public/" title="20171102_112705"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/38084336042_03b9d6c401_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20171102_112705"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
This is the underside of the hood. This frame piece is bonded to the top hood piece.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/37406435094/in/dateposted-public/" title="20171102_112723"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/37406435094_104b46d90c_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="20171102_112723"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
I think the problem is probably that since the bottom is made of carbon fiber and the top is made of FRP, if one or the other wants to expand or contract a little it is restricted by the other. I'm curious if anyone else with an FRP/Carbon Hood can chime in if they see this on their hoods.
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Hey guys been a while.
Some updates for the NSX to start off the spring of 2018. Did my oil change and I modified the fender liners that Joe customized to eliminate rubbing on them. Now it's back to how it was before just barely rubbing the chassis a full lock. Also as some may have noticed I don't have any windshield washer nozzles on the hood of my car. That was a problem for me in Massachusetts because to be road legal you need working windshield washer setup. I ordered and customized a nozzle I found online and used 3M automotive tape to stick it on the underside of the hood. It sprays a lot wider than my OEM setup, but works good either way. Just need to see if I need to replace some of the hose lengths and properly secure them to the underside of the hood to claim that 100% installed. Currently using that blue painters tape to hold up the hoses.
I also ordered a new steering rack after Joe told me that my steering rack needed a rebuild since it has a lot of play. The new rack is here but I have a couple of Autox coming up so I'll have to wait until after those autox to swap out the steering rack. Will rebuild my current rack and have it as a back up when the new one eventually wears out.
Either way here are some pictures of the hidden windshield washer jets installed and of the spray pattern.
Close Up Shot
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/40696345674/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/40696345674_3e974ef39e_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Further Away Shot
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/39601456730/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/801/39601456730_7c91d2515f_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Spray Pattern
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/41367856272/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/41367856272_4f2ae4b0d1_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Some updates for the NSX to start off the spring of 2018. Did my oil change and I modified the fender liners that Joe customized to eliminate rubbing on them. Now it's back to how it was before just barely rubbing the chassis a full lock. Also as some may have noticed I don't have any windshield washer nozzles on the hood of my car. That was a problem for me in Massachusetts because to be road legal you need working windshield washer setup. I ordered and customized a nozzle I found online and used 3M automotive tape to stick it on the underside of the hood. It sprays a lot wider than my OEM setup, but works good either way. Just need to see if I need to replace some of the hose lengths and properly secure them to the underside of the hood to claim that 100% installed. Currently using that blue painters tape to hold up the hoses.
I also ordered a new steering rack after Joe told me that my steering rack needed a rebuild since it has a lot of play. The new rack is here but I have a couple of Autox coming up so I'll have to wait until after those autox to swap out the steering rack. Will rebuild my current rack and have it as a back up when the new one eventually wears out.
Either way here are some pictures of the hidden windshield washer jets installed and of the spray pattern.
Close Up Shot
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/40696345674/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/866/40696345674_3e974ef39e_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Further Away Shot
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/39601456730/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/801/39601456730_7c91d2515f_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Spray Pattern
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/41367856272/in/dateposted-public/" title="Hidden washer nozzle mod"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/41367856272_4f2ae4b0d1_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Hidden washer nozzle mod"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Wow what weird law to have a windshield sprayer required! I get it but wow!
Also did you buy a new OEM rack or send yours to get rebuild by Matt (D1 Guy)?
I bet your looking forward to having this back on the road!
Also did you buy a new OEM rack or send yours to get rebuild by Matt (D1 Guy)?
I bet your looking forward to having this back on the road!
It's Massachusetts and their inspection requirements. You'll fail inspection if they say your nozzle isn't working properly because it's considered a safety hazard I believe.
I bought the OEM rack and will send the currently installed one to be rebuilt after I remove it.
Yeah I can't wait to enjoy my car again. Basically a year with NSX while it was under the knife. I'm anxious for sure.
I bought the OEM rack and will send the currently installed one to be rebuilt after I remove it.
Yeah I can't wait to enjoy my car again. Basically a year with NSX while it was under the knife. I'm anxious for sure.
Hey guys,
So I did two autox events the weekend of 21st and 22nd. I felt a little rusty with the car on that Saturday. I think I've just gotten so used to driving cars with power steering I was a bit sluggish driving my manual steering car with wide front tires. After that the next day I just kept pushing more and more and man it felt great. I think the rear spoiler is definitely giving me more rear grip. I'm able to quickly rotate the car and not have to worry about it coming out from behind me. Feels nice! Unfortunately I forgot to hit record on the go pro on my last run of the day so I don't have any footage but I placed 3rd in the experienced street class so I'm happy. I can't wait to get out there again to drive some more.
Also wanted to add that everyone that see's this car has pretty unanimously told me that they love the color. Some told me before I had painted it they were not sure if they liked what I did with the widebody but now that's its painted they think it looks good.
Picture I took after cone duty.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/26918561777/in/dateposted-public/" title="20180422_121307"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/26918561777_ae5df0745a_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20180422_121307"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
So this Friday I spent a couple hours in the garage swapping out the old steering rack with the new one. Luckily I had some experience installing a knock bush with the old rack so I was able to disassemble the tie rods from the steering rack without having to remove the tie rods from the hub. Was kind of tough assembling the steering column and steering rack to each other by myself but I pulled it off and got it back together. I used duct tape to make a pivot point on the steering rack which allowed me to carefully position the two together without a huge amount of effort. Then I got under the car and gave the steering rack the final push up to fully engage the two. Took a little trial and error to figure out how to do it but I managed to do it myself.
I took a drive and I think I can tell a difference where now any slight movement of the wheel makes a small change in direction. One more thing fixed and now I think I just need to do my 7 year maintenance items next (Timing belt, water pump, coolant hoses, etc). Either way that's for the summer so I guess for now I'm good to go and enjoy the car for a little while.
Picture of old and new rack before transferring over the bushings over to the new rack.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/41785992041/in/dateposted-public/" title="20180427_105922"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/41785992041_8b834426b6_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20180427_105922"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
So I did two autox events the weekend of 21st and 22nd. I felt a little rusty with the car on that Saturday. I think I've just gotten so used to driving cars with power steering I was a bit sluggish driving my manual steering car with wide front tires. After that the next day I just kept pushing more and more and man it felt great. I think the rear spoiler is definitely giving me more rear grip. I'm able to quickly rotate the car and not have to worry about it coming out from behind me. Feels nice! Unfortunately I forgot to hit record on the go pro on my last run of the day so I don't have any footage but I placed 3rd in the experienced street class so I'm happy. I can't wait to get out there again to drive some more.
Also wanted to add that everyone that see's this car has pretty unanimously told me that they love the color. Some told me before I had painted it they were not sure if they liked what I did with the widebody but now that's its painted they think it looks good.
Picture I took after cone duty.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/26918561777/in/dateposted-public/" title="20180422_121307"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/26918561777_ae5df0745a_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20180422_121307"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
So this Friday I spent a couple hours in the garage swapping out the old steering rack with the new one. Luckily I had some experience installing a knock bush with the old rack so I was able to disassemble the tie rods from the steering rack without having to remove the tie rods from the hub. Was kind of tough assembling the steering column and steering rack to each other by myself but I pulled it off and got it back together. I used duct tape to make a pivot point on the steering rack which allowed me to carefully position the two together without a huge amount of effort. Then I got under the car and gave the steering rack the final push up to fully engage the two. Took a little trial and error to figure out how to do it but I managed to do it myself.
I took a drive and I think I can tell a difference where now any slight movement of the wheel makes a small change in direction. One more thing fixed and now I think I just need to do my 7 year maintenance items next (Timing belt, water pump, coolant hoses, etc). Either way that's for the summer so I guess for now I'm good to go and enjoy the car for a little while.
Picture of old and new rack before transferring over the bushings over to the new rack.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/41785992041/in/dateposted-public/" title="20180427_105922"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/41785992041_8b834426b6_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20180427_105922"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
I haven't been on much, excellent color choice!
Gil
Gil
Hey guys,
Hope you guys are having a good start to 2019. I don't have a lot planned for 2019 just a couple of small mods and that is it.
This past summer I bought a set of Volk CE28SLs in 17"x9" +22 and 18"x10.5" +22 wheels. These were the wheels I originally was going to go with before going with 18" and 19" BC Forged setup. I told myself I would either mount my Direzza ZIIs on them, if I was able to sell the Advan Model 5s, or sell the Model 5s with the tires and upgrade the tires on the new set. I was able to successfully sell the Model 5s with my Direzzas ZIIs, so I bought myself some 245/40R17 and 275/35R18 Bridgestone RE71Rs. This wheel/tire setup will result in a total weight decrease of 31.46lbs compared to my current setup and is stickier than the RE11s I currently have. I have to get the tires mounted on the wheels since I just got them a week or two ago. The BC Forged set I'm going to use for street duty until the tires wear out then I'm going to put all season tires on them to allow me to use my NSX even on colder days/nights in the fall/winter/spring. The Volks will be my dedicated Track/AutoX setup.
I'm ordering a lexan hatch from SOS to remove some weight and lower my CoG slightly. I believe people say this results in a 12-18 lb decrease. I'll weigh the difference for my hatch once I'm done to see the actual difference. I also plan to get a harness, harness bar, and hans device. I'm thinking a Cedar Ridge Harness bar and Schroth FLEXI 2X2.
I may remove my bluetooth stereo system to bring the weight down even further.
Here's a picture of the wheels
View attachment 157849View attachment 157855
Also I weight the NSX in October with a little under half a tank of gas at NHMS weigh station. Thinking that means it really weighs about 2760lbs topped off as it sits today. I'm thinking it'll be about 2715-2720lbs after I finish doing my mods this year.
Here's some footage I took that day:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cosn7I6LNlc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Either way I'll make some more updates as parts come in and get mounted.
Hope you guys are having a good start to 2019. I don't have a lot planned for 2019 just a couple of small mods and that is it.
This past summer I bought a set of Volk CE28SLs in 17"x9" +22 and 18"x10.5" +22 wheels. These were the wheels I originally was going to go with before going with 18" and 19" BC Forged setup. I told myself I would either mount my Direzza ZIIs on them, if I was able to sell the Advan Model 5s, or sell the Model 5s with the tires and upgrade the tires on the new set. I was able to successfully sell the Model 5s with my Direzzas ZIIs, so I bought myself some 245/40R17 and 275/35R18 Bridgestone RE71Rs. This wheel/tire setup will result in a total weight decrease of 31.46lbs compared to my current setup and is stickier than the RE11s I currently have. I have to get the tires mounted on the wheels since I just got them a week or two ago. The BC Forged set I'm going to use for street duty until the tires wear out then I'm going to put all season tires on them to allow me to use my NSX even on colder days/nights in the fall/winter/spring. The Volks will be my dedicated Track/AutoX setup.
I'm ordering a lexan hatch from SOS to remove some weight and lower my CoG slightly. I believe people say this results in a 12-18 lb decrease. I'll weigh the difference for my hatch once I'm done to see the actual difference. I also plan to get a harness, harness bar, and hans device. I'm thinking a Cedar Ridge Harness bar and Schroth FLEXI 2X2.
I may remove my bluetooth stereo system to bring the weight down even further.
Here's a picture of the wheels
View attachment 157849View attachment 157855
Also I weight the NSX in October with a little under half a tank of gas at NHMS weigh station. Thinking that means it really weighs about 2760lbs topped off as it sits today. I'm thinking it'll be about 2715-2720lbs after I finish doing my mods this year.
Here's some footage I took that day:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cosn7I6LNlc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Either way I'll make some more updates as parts come in and get mounted.
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Just mounted the wheels yesterday and put them on the car today. Took the car for a spin and it just felt so much better with the lighter wheels/tires. I went from 255/35R18 Fronts & 305/30R19 Rears to 245/45R17 Fronts & 275/40R18 Rears. Overall diameter of the tires went down by .3 in the front and .6 in the rear. Gives me more clearance and I barely rub at all now. Also steering feels lighter at driveway speeds which is a nice plus.
In addition to that I replaced the driver side window molding strip because my old one ended up tearing near the top of the B pillar.
Next up is the hatch. Might tackle that tomorrow or leave it for next weekend. Update: I'm ordering an extra hatch frame so that I can keep my original hatch as is and not sacrifice it for this mod. Need to wait until it arrives until I can replace the hatch now.
In addition to that I replaced the driver side window molding strip because my old one ended up tearing near the top of the B pillar.
Next up is the hatch. Might tackle that tomorrow or leave it for next weekend. Update: I'm ordering an extra hatch frame so that I can keep my original hatch as is and not sacrifice it for this mod. Need to wait until it arrives until I can replace the hatch now.
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- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 164
Love the CEs on the car. They look great.
Thanks cccoltsicehockey.
My hatch frame has shipped and should be here on Friday the latest. I also ordered a SOS tow hook. I need to figure out how to get a rear tow hook on as well. Thinking about it if I have a mechanical problem I have no way of towing the car without damaging the front & rear bumper as it currently sits.
In addition I made another couple of purchases. New floor mats to replace my nearly 30 year old floor mats. Also ordered a new coolant expansion tank and a Type-R expansion tank cover. Doing this as preventative measure since the lexan hatch will not be tinted like my rear glass, so I need some way to protect the expansion tank from UV light.
With that said I am considering also replacing the radiator. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with that so I can change out the tank and the radiator at the same time. Next post should include some pictures of the lexan hatch install.
My hatch frame has shipped and should be here on Friday the latest. I also ordered a SOS tow hook. I need to figure out how to get a rear tow hook on as well. Thinking about it if I have a mechanical problem I have no way of towing the car without damaging the front & rear bumper as it currently sits.
In addition I made another couple of purchases. New floor mats to replace my nearly 30 year old floor mats. Also ordered a new coolant expansion tank and a Type-R expansion tank cover. Doing this as preventative measure since the lexan hatch will not be tinted like my rear glass, so I need some way to protect the expansion tank from UV light.
With that said I am considering also replacing the radiator. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with that so I can change out the tank and the radiator at the same time. Next post should include some pictures of the lexan hatch install.
Decided to give an update.
Well after sitting on this for a long time I decided to go ahead and start working on my car. It's been a busy couple of months at work, so I've pretty much decided putting all modding and track/autox off for the summer. Since this weekend it's super hot and I didn't need to go into work, I decided to do some garage work instead.
1st thing I decided to do is remove the audio system from the car. It died on me AGAIN (2nd time in 2 years) and I don't want to waste time trying to figure out what component of the system died. I guess that makes it easier to ditch the system. I pulled all the parts out of my car (door speakers, subwoofer, 2 amps, bluetooth controller, bass controller, sub box bracket and plate, and all associated wiring. I put this in a box and weighed it for a total of 10 lbs. Pretty light considering how much came out, just not happy that it dies on me so quickly. I came up with an alternate solution for music that is pretty good and since it's not permanent I can easily pull it off and take it with me if needed. Also this alternate solution only weights 3 lbs total including bracket. That's 7 lbs saved haha. Since it's close to my head, I can still hear the music pretty clear even with my engine buzzing behind me.
Pictures of my bracket I made. Hooks to center rear speaker piece. Requires removal of rear long piece of interior to hook in place then you can put that panel back in to help further secure this down. Still moves a little but not much.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334072936/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_195711"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334072936_9401c184c6_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_195711"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Strap it down to make it more secure.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334215442/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_195650"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334215442_b710a7b68e_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_195650"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
How it looks in the car. I think it looks pretty neat and not too out of place in the car.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334215437/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_155312"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334215437_1140d855e2_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_155312"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
2nd task is working on the lexan hatch that's been sitting in my basement for a couple of months. I had already cleaned all the adhesive off the frame right when I bought it, so I started measuring out all the holes I needed to drill out. I started drilling the frame, but my #36 drill bit broke quarter of the way through. I decided to wait until tomorrow to pick up a new bit and continue with the install of the hatch. With that said I have removed my oem glass I'll post some pictures tomorrow once I have something to show.
Well after sitting on this for a long time I decided to go ahead and start working on my car. It's been a busy couple of months at work, so I've pretty much decided putting all modding and track/autox off for the summer. Since this weekend it's super hot and I didn't need to go into work, I decided to do some garage work instead.
1st thing I decided to do is remove the audio system from the car. It died on me AGAIN (2nd time in 2 years) and I don't want to waste time trying to figure out what component of the system died. I guess that makes it easier to ditch the system. I pulled all the parts out of my car (door speakers, subwoofer, 2 amps, bluetooth controller, bass controller, sub box bracket and plate, and all associated wiring. I put this in a box and weighed it for a total of 10 lbs. Pretty light considering how much came out, just not happy that it dies on me so quickly. I came up with an alternate solution for music that is pretty good and since it's not permanent I can easily pull it off and take it with me if needed. Also this alternate solution only weights 3 lbs total including bracket. That's 7 lbs saved haha. Since it's close to my head, I can still hear the music pretty clear even with my engine buzzing behind me.
Pictures of my bracket I made. Hooks to center rear speaker piece. Requires removal of rear long piece of interior to hook in place then you can put that panel back in to help further secure this down. Still moves a little but not much.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334072936/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_195711"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334072936_9401c184c6_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_195711"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Strap it down to make it more secure.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334215442/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_195650"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334215442_b710a7b68e_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_195650"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
How it looks in the car. I think it looks pretty neat and not too out of place in the car.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48334215437/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190714_155312"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48334215437_1140d855e2_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190714_155312"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
2nd task is working on the lexan hatch that's been sitting in my basement for a couple of months. I had already cleaned all the adhesive off the frame right when I bought it, so I started measuring out all the holes I needed to drill out. I started drilling the frame, but my #36 drill bit broke quarter of the way through. I decided to wait until tomorrow to pick up a new bit and continue with the install of the hatch. With that said I have removed my oem glass I'll post some pictures tomorrow once I have something to show.
Got most of the lexan installation work done today with some setbacks along the way. I was able to measure out the centerline of the window and rail and get it set up pretty close to ideal location. I think I was off by like .1" to one side which is not much. I mounted the window on the car and I can see that there is some uneven gaps but nothing super noticeable. I had a tap break in the middle of the day so I unfortuneatly had to slowly work it back and forth to get it out and that delayed me a bit. On top of that the digital vernier I bought to do my measurments didn't arrive until 3:30PM today so that also delayed me a bit. Either way next step is to add sealant and install final hardware. I feel like these screws a little too short and would like some more thread engagement and also going to see if I can find something that doesn't stick out as much. So in the meantime I'm going to leave it as is and seal when I get new hardware. Once I have it all sealed up and finalized I'll then weight my OEM setup vs my lexan setup. Nice thing about having two is I can weigh these and give a definitive answer lol.
Here are some pictures
Measured out and all holes drilled. Ready for tapping.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343417102/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_114514"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343417102_95971ab018_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_114514"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Tapping the holes. Notice the butyl tape on the corner added that to help temporarily hold in place since my hand clamps kind of sucked.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343416482/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_213621"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343416482_d39ac15b94_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_213621"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Partially bolted to car driver side:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343272166/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_222808"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343272166_d2a97e6eef_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_222808"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Partially bolted to car passenger side:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343272091/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_222821"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343272091_074c22034d_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_222821"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Here are some pictures
Measured out and all holes drilled. Ready for tapping.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343417102/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_114514"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343417102_95971ab018_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_114514"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Tapping the holes. Notice the butyl tape on the corner added that to help temporarily hold in place since my hand clamps kind of sucked.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343416482/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_213621"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343416482_d39ac15b94_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_213621"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Partially bolted to car driver side:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343272166/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_222808"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343272166_d2a97e6eef_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_222808"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Partially bolted to car passenger side:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48343272091/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190721_222821"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343272091_074c22034d_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190721_222821"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Similar to you, I decided to go for a bluetooth speaker until I get the chance to fix my audio system. I'm using 2 Beats Pill+ speakers. I set them up in stereo using a single phone.
Nice job with the lexan. Are you going to get an air scoop?
Nice job with the lexan. Are you going to get an air scoop?
Exciting! I want to do this one day!
Thanks, I thought about it, but I don't think I really need an air scoop and I would assume it kills rear visibility. If I had ITBs maybe then it would be a good idea but for now I think I'm good.
Anthony
Thinking about this mode since quite a long time, so please allow me some questions:
Where did you buy the lexan cover ?
How is the fitment ?
Is it "just" using the old / OEM frame and install the lexan cover on it (old frame has to be threaded before)
Did you remove the OEM glas from the frame by yourself or did you use a company doing that ?
Wheight reduction is about 6 kgs roughly ?
Where did you buy the lexan cover ?
How is the fitment ?
Is it "just" using the old / OEM frame and install the lexan cover on it (old frame has to be threaded before)
Did you remove the OEM glas from the frame by yourself or did you use a company doing that ?
Wheight reduction is about 6 kgs roughly ?
I bought the lexan cover through Science of Speed. The fitment is pretty good but definitely not perfect I think. I may need to widen the holes a little to help get it to l sit better, if I want better fitment, but I dont think it'lll get much better than how it currently sits. You do need a sacrificiall hatch frame to do this mod. I called SOS to see if they had a spare one and luckily they did. So I bought their hatch frame which had the glass removed already and kept my original hatch with glass intact. I thought I heard someone recently made a carbon fiber hatch frame though, so it might be worth looking for that if you want to save even more weight.
I have done this mod with Turbo2go before on his car and we did pull the glass off. Getting glass off is kind of a pain but doable. We used a thin guitar wire with two wooden handles to hold wire with and sawed back and forth as we went around perimeter of glass. Then we used a dremel with a wire wheel to grind off the factory adhesive/sealant..
I havent weighed the setups yet. I want tonweigh them after I add the sealant to get the true weight difference.
Here the information on the CF hatch frame:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/189800-The-quot-austrian-type-R-quot-NSX/page4?p=1999599&viewfull=1#post1999599
You may want to contact Christian (austrian type-R) for help! :wink:
Yes ATR in Austria is making the carbon frame.
Hi guys I finished doing the install. I got a total weight savings of 11.4lbs. Lexan Hatch with frame is 23lbs and glass hatch with frame is 34.4lbs. I guess I over tightened some of the screws on the hatch and noticed stress cracks near the holes of the lexan hatch this morning. I didn't realize it was that easy to crack 
. I guess a lesson learned for you guys really be careful with how tight you tighten the hardware on your lexan hatch. With that said I've reduced 20 lbs with the hatch and speaker update. In combination with my wheel upgrade (30lbs) I should be at ~2710lbs curb weight at the moment. Need to think what else I can do to further reduce weight. Maybe get rid of traction control module and SRS wiring system. Just need to figure out how to get the SRS light to stay off.
Here are the pictures of it after it's been installed.
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Next step is ordering and installing a Masiv radiator to improve cooling capabilities of the car. I got to wait two weeks for more to be available for order.
. I guess a lesson learned for you guys really be careful with how tight you tighten the hardware on your lexan hatch. With that said I've reduced 20 lbs with the hatch and speaker update. In combination with my wheel upgrade (30lbs) I should be at ~2710lbs curb weight at the moment. Need to think what else I can do to further reduce weight. Maybe get rid of traction control module and SRS wiring system. Just need to figure out how to get the SRS light to stay off. Here are the pictures of it after it's been installed.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48391513562/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190727_102858"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48391513562_aba8976a2e_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190727_102858"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77613264@N02/48391371976/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190727_102840"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48391371976_edce1d9acb_k.jpg" width="2048" height="996" alt="20190727_102840"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next step is ordering and installing a Masiv radiator to improve cooling capabilities of the car. I got to wait two weeks for more to be available for order.
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