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Need help on potential audio set up

Joined
4 September 2003
Messages
459
Location
Chicago, IL
I've done a lot of research here so I apologize if I missed some things already talked about.
Appreciate if you audio experts can direct me to what I need and dont need.

04 NSX - Planned Audio mods:
- 10" replacement sub enclosure from AP-X in floorwell
- 10" sub / amp / wiring purchased separately

- wireless blue tooth (not cassette) but Grom?
- Smartenna (do I need?)

I will be playing music off my phone so the CD player or cassette won't be needed.

1. Do I still need smartenna because the antenna will go up when I turn the radio on?
2. How does the radio go into AUX mode when I want to play music off my phone? Antenna stays up?
3. I assume I need some type of RCA's to plug into the back of the seat or trunk to make the bluetooth device play? Does it connect to your phone or wireless?
4. Are you using the battery neg terminal as a ground or somewhere else?

Thanks in advance
 
So many possibilities and previous threads on this one, because audio is a very personal thing which varies person to person on what they like on setup. Should get lots of options.

1. Are you currently running all OEM head unit and Bose speakers?
Sounds like at least the head unit is OEM.

2. Are all in good working condition?
I found once I repaired my integrated Bose speaker amps and one torn speaker with BrianK that the OEM stereo became pretty good. Not worth dropping $$$ or more for anything new and all the headaches for an install not to mention trusting people to do the install on a car they probably have never worked on. Besides as many people say the best soundtrack is listing to that engine rev.

3. Actual use of Radio versus music from your phone?
If you hardly use the radio and/or live in a good reception urban area, just unplug the main antenna mast and the radio will default to the other mast which is on the glass over the engine bay. But you lose good reception on trips or wire a switch to power on/off or do it by hand each time you go out of town.

If you want the best of both worlds run a GROM with Honda spec plug along with Smartenna. You get antenna down while using your Bluetooth and antenna up when using your radio.

By the way the GROM takes over the CD player spot as opposed to being a true AUX input. So when you wire everything up using the CD changer wire... head unit/grom/smartenna in that order to make it all work. The best location is probably behind driver seat on rear panel as the CD player plug is accessible and you will get great Bluetooth reception. You just will have to extend the smartenna wires from the trunk to that location. No need to worry about RCA cables. Just plug and play.

Note you can go with either the GROM or USASpec Bluetooth adapter just make sure you order with the Honda spec plug. The advantage of the GROM is that it is compatible with the Smartenna while the USASpec is not. So I would just go GROM incase you change your mind about using a smartenna later on.

Good luck, I am sure other people will give you some helpful threads.
 
Thank you both and extremely helpful! Can't believe I missed your thread NSX2398.

I plan to do #1 in that thread. - 1. Keep the stock head unit but add an iPod/MP3 player interface (and add a new sub/sub enclosure/amp)

Would I need the Science of Speed piece or the GROM? Or are they the same thing? I see texmorales mentions to go with the GROM if I plan on getting a smartenna.
 
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Sorry .. I don't pretend to be an expert on Bluetooth or Grom but in this post, there was some discussion about Grom: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...densed-version
I went with the SOS one but I had no need for a smartenna. To be honest, I rarely hear the word 'smartenna' any more ... not even sure it anyone uses it any more. There's an article in the NSX Wiki which might help http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/SmartTenna You might also want to use the search as well to check for any recent discussion.
 
The first link didn't work but that's OK.
Do you know why people aren't mentioning the smartenna or buying as much?

I assume the reception with the antenna down and with it unplugged is the same?
 
Sorry .. here's the proper link to the 'condensed discussion' on the iPod adapter: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...for-your-oem-NSX-Stereo-the-condensed-version
I don't really know why it doesn't get discussed much. I think it was created in 1998 so maybe it's not well known to new users. It's listed on the SOS site so they may have some additional perspectives. I know that many people have joked about the fact that when the antenna goes up, it goes up so high the car looks like an RC car which was probably the motivation to do the Smartenna. My antenna has never worked (up or down) since I bought it so I've never looked into it. Even though mine doesn't go up and down, it still receives FM which is all I wanted. You might want to read the Wiki article .. it seems to suggest that Smartenna just temporarily disables antenna deployment in CD mode (which is also 'iPod' mode) so that wouldn't affect reception. You wouldn't want to unplug the antenna cable but if you disconnected the power to the antenna motor, you wouldn't need the Smartenna .. but, like me, you'd only be able to get FM.
 
I won't be needing AM/FM or CD mode once I gain bluetooth ability.

So you're saying out with the Smartenna and IN with the antenna power disconnect + SOS Ipod adapter?
 
Just checking in on things...

If you will always be just using Bluetooth (which takes over the CD player spot) and not worrying about AM/FM reception than NSX2398 is definitely right. Just disconnect the power to antenna and buy a USASpec/Grom and your good to go. SOS has really great customer service. They have high shipping prices but when you call or email for support they are all over it.

Yea, not to many people talk about Smartenna anymore, definitely doesn't help that they don't make them anymore. So you have to get one off another Prime member. Usually people just disconnect power or the antenna completely or try for a short fixed antenna to get rid of the RC car look. People comment on mixed results on the short antennas. Personally I love the flagpole length antenna as it reminds me of just how unique our cars our. Regardless all these options are reversible and easy to go back to OEM when needed.

Good luck.
 
Last year I decided I wanted a great sounding stereo that ran off my phone, was nearly invisible, and was reverseable.

So, I started with the SOS stage 2 system. Basically its the sub and box, new door speakers, and an amplifier.

To that I added an Audio Control equalizer so that I could have full control over the sound system and it offers multiple audio inputs. I added a JL Audio remote level control to be able to adjust the volume without touching my phone. I mounted it in the center coin try area.

To that I added a Fusion Bluetooth Dongle that is for marine use. I mounted this behind the center speaker grill (I removed the speaker).

I also insalled the SOS factory to aftermarket harness and ran that to the "b" input of the EQ. I also unplugged my antenna so it always stays down.

Today, when i get in the car I connect to the Fusion bluetooth with my phone and off I go. Volume is adjusted with my small black control in the center coin tray and the only hint that something is not stock. Sound is just awesome. I could not be more happy with it. Lots of clarity, lots of sound, lots of power.

IF I want to return to the cars stereo I just select the "b" input on the EQ, plug in the antenna, and it works.

I have pics and such, if you were inteterested in something like this it might motivate me to do a write up on the procedure.......
 
Sorry .. here's the proper link to the 'condensed discussion' on the iPod adapter: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...for-your-oem-NSX-Stereo-the-condensed-version
I don't really know why it doesn't get discussed much. I think it was created in 1998 so maybe it's not well known to new users. It's listed on the SOS site so they may have some additional perspectives. I know that many people have joked about the fact that when the antenna goes up, it goes up so high the car looks like an RC car which was probably the motivation to do the Smartenna. My antenna has never worked (up or down) since I bought it so I've never looked into it. Even though mine doesn't go up and down, it still receives FM which is all I wanted. You might want to read the Wiki article .. it seems to suggest that Smartenna just temporarily disables antenna deployment in CD mode (which is also 'iPod' mode) so that wouldn't affect reception. You wouldn't want to unplug the antenna cable but if you disconnected the power to the antenna motor, you wouldn't need the Smartenna .. but, like me, you'd only be able to get FM.

Just checking in on things...

If you will always be just using Bluetooth (which takes over the CD player spot) and not worrying about AM/FM reception than NSX2398 is definitely right. Just disconnect the power to antenna and buy a USASpec/Grom and your good to go. SOS has really great customer service. They have high shipping prices but when you call or email for support they are all over it.

Yea, not to many people talk about Smartenna anymore, definitely doesn't help that they don't make them anymore. So you have to get one off another Prime member. Usually people just disconnect power or the antenna completely or try for a short fixed antenna to get rid of the RC car look. People comment on mixed results on the short antennas. Personally I love the flagpole length antenna as it reminds me of just how unique our cars our. Regardless all these options are reversible and easy to go back to OEM when needed.

Good luck.

Do you have a DIY for disconnecting the power to the antenna motor?
I didn't see it in the Wiki or the links provided.

Apologies if it's in one of the links, but I didnt see.
 
I need to remove the panel behind the driver headrest for SOS to determine if their USA-Spec will work in my car. Anyone know how to do that?

I didn't find anything in the Wiki and I looked through the whole service manual.
 
If you're not in a rush I'm in the midst of creating a kit for the NSX that uses all OEM speaker boxes, a digital amp that is mounted where you can't see, an aux connector, all OEM wiring and connectors. It's mostly plug and play only much higher sound quality. It takes up absolutely zero extra space over OEM.

- - - Updated - - -

It'll be another month or two before it's ready for sale.
 
^ Sounds interesting and definately not in a rush. Just bought the car so still getting used to things and listening to the sound of the motor at WOT. ha

Meantime, do you know how to remove the panel behind the driver headrest?
 
The top panel? It's just clips. Push it up toward the roof
 
If you're not in a rush I'm in the midst of creating a kit for the NSX that uses all OEM speaker boxes, a digital amp that is mounted where you can't see, an aux connector, all OEM wiring and connectors. It's mostly plug and play only much higher sound quality. It takes up absolutely zero extra space over OEM.

- - - Updated - - -
Interested...are you going to use OEM head unit or ?


It'll be another month or two before it's ready for sale.

Interested...are you going to use OEM head unit or ?
 
I didn't find anything in the Wiki and I looked through the whole service manual.

Go to page 20-38 in the shop manual and follow the numbered step by step instructions.

I have a Grom USB/IPhone/AUX/Bluetooth adapter and a Smartenna.
 
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You can use whatever you want as the source. Your phone, your radio, an aftermarket radio... The problem of the self amplified Bose speakers does not exist in my system. It took me a long time to find a proper driver to work well on the OEM Bose door enclosures. It keeps figment stock, wiring stock, angles the speaker correctly, is lightweight, and you don't have to plaster your entire door with heavy dynamat only to have a speaker that's recessed under the door cover 5" and firing toward your calves. My driver is a 4" flat piston driver with double the dispersion pattern of your standard driver and is pretty flat in the Bose box from 70-21.000 Hz. It's point source, meaning all frequencies emanate from the exact same point and unlike tweeters and woofers that go in separate areas of the car, this keeps everything together. That means no phase distortion. It's quite simple and works very well. I've posted this before but this was an adaptor I made previously from MDF for the factory enclosure. I've since mass produced a few of these. Having a speaker in an actual enclosure is superior to one floating openly in a door. No matter how much dynamat you put on a door it still does not make a great speaker box. And 80% of a speaker's sound quality is determined by its box not by the driver. Buying really expensive drivers and throwing them in a door is not a good practice IMO. This system I'm putting together isn't expensive.

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a1425327.jpg


- - - Updated - - -

That's not the driver... That was one of my initial designs. But that adaptor adapts my driver to the Bose box utilizing its air volume and port length, and brings the speaker out, angles it back toward you and up toward your ear. Almost all other drivers just sit flat in the door and the grille and door cover recess them 3-4". It's even worse when you remove the enclosure.

I also believe the subwoofers we use... The 10's and 12's for the most part are too big. The proper size for a sub that can go low in that size enclosure is 6-8". The NSX cabin is tiny and reinforces low frequencies you don't need a lot. The OEM su is just another Bose 3" driver.
 
My driver is a 4" flat piston driver with double the dispersion pattern of your standard driver and is pretty flat in the Bose box from 70-21.000 Hz. It's point source, meaning all frequencies emanate from the exact same point and unlike tweeters and woofers that go in separate areas of the car, this keeps everything together.

I'm curious about your driver. In my experience (high-end home audio), those drivers don't have very good treble response. I've been planning on using a coax driver in the door but your approach has a lot of merit. What else can you tell us?
 
I'm not done testing. I really didn't want to post until I'm closer. Things come up for me and stuff gets left behind. I started this "light weight" stereo project 2 years ago. Maybe 3 lol... I am running sound analyzers in the car and determining the response. You can alway EQ your way in. The home drivers that have little treble response... That IS the OEM Bose driver. It's the same driver they use in almost all their speakers. It's simply EQ'ed. Using an EQ normally flattens response but when you use multiple drivers it creates phase distortion. The more you EQ The more you distort. Phase distortion is basically delays with certain frequencies. Parts of the sound spectrum lag or get ahead and all does not arrive at your ears with correct timing or phase. With multiple drivers (separate mids and tweeters and woofers) you have this problem to a huge degree. With a single point source driver it's much much less. And I'm talking just about the sounds arriving at your ear without the effect of the cabin, the sonic reflections. When you factor in the cabin, the phase distortion increases and created a nightmare. That's why it's so important to have a driver that angles directly toward your ear... And a point source (single driver) if possible. This is how Bose does it. Single driver, EQ'ed. I will decide on the EQ after I test in the car and analyze. This is just really time consuming and I don't have a lot of it.
 
Yup, I agree with your reasoning for using a single driver, if it can perform. I understand how projects take so much more time than one ever plans, and look forward to reading about your progress.
 
No. It has 3 Bose full range drivers. Two act as door speakers and one as a subwoofer. Same speaker. The center was for the factory cell phone later converted to a "center" by Bose.
 
Thanks. Are members adding tweeters and if so, any good spots to hide them away from out in the open? The highs on the stock bose are lacking in my opinion so maybe looking to add a pair.
 
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