NSX problems between 100 and 150K question

[willabeest]

i am a happy owner of a 1992 NSX 5 speed i purchased with 75K miles about 7 or 8 years ago. it now has 106K miles and runs well with the only potential problem being it barely passes on california emission HC with new aftermarket cats.
my question is what sorts of mechanical problems may occur over the next 50K miles with a probability of over 15%. the vehicle is very well maintained by an exceptional shop. i do not race or track it but it was tracked before i bought it.
it has a comptech clutch, headers, tubi exhaust, koni shocks, all of the lines were replaced, new coolant reservoir (OEM), newer rims from a 1996, (most of this was done before i bought the vehicle).
thank you.

 

[davidf]

If it's never been done, I'd service the tranny, replace the main relay as well. I even replaced my fuel pump relay just as a precaution.
I'd keep a check on the right inner CV boot as they seem to fail from exhaust heat. If the clutch slave and master cylinder are original, potential replacement there also. Consider the 02 sensors also.

 

[kookoo4nsx]

Well, since you put 30k miles in the last 7 years the things that could go wrong are anything on the scheduled maintainance list you have not completed. Other things are prone to go at 100k if they are still original such as:

1) Main relay.
2) ABS pump if not exercized.
3) Coil(s)
4) Clutch
5) Drivers seat leather.
6) Spool Valve gaskets.


I am assuming you had a complete 90k service including TB/WP Valve adjustment.

Take care of what needs to be done and ENJOY your NSX for the next 100k!

 

[willabeest]

If it's never been done, I'd service the tranny, replace the main relay as well. I even replaced my fuel pump relay just as a precaution.
I'd keep a check on the right inner CV boot as they seem to fail from exhaust heat. If the clutch slave and master cylinder are original, potential replacement there also. Consider the 02 sensors also.

O2 sensors replaced recently
front CV boots done recently (they leaked)
all maintenance up to date

 

[SoCalDude]

A/C compressor. I had my first one replaced at 94k and now it went out again at 109k.

 

[BATMANs]

My only issues was kaboom from too much boost. everything else is fine.

 

[LJSB]

My only issues was kaboom from too much boost. everything else is fine.

Who did your rebuild? Shad?

 

[BATMANs]

Who did your rebuild? Shad?

Nope.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/ellsworth-automotive-center-mountain-view

I needed a local guy that I can watch and control the direction of the build and component selection. taking pics is a good thing being local.

these guys have been in business for 43 years and do work for Dinan (across from them).

Shad just had a new born and he was hard to get a hold of.

 

[L_RAO]

I'm a big fan of having injectors professional cleaned every 100K...

 

[d.n]

Nope.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/ellsworth-automotive-center-mountain-view

I needed a local guy that I can watch and control the direction of the build and component selection. taking pics is a good thing being local.

these guys have been in business for 43 years and do work for Dinan (across from them).

Shad just had a new born and he was hard to get a hold of.

Having somebody local do it is worth it's weight in gold if things don't work perfectly out of the box.


Back on topic, I'd like to add injector seals to the list. Easy replacement and bad consequences if they fail. Not sure I would bother with too much else preemptively. Having somebody with a boroscope look at the VVIS plates isn't a bad idea. Ditto for installing a crank pulley shield if you did not buy a new crank pulley when the TB was done. Again these I personally did preemptively as a failure of these parts can kill the motor.

 

[davidf]

Well, since you put 30k miles in the last 7 years the things that could go wrong are anything on the scheduled maintainance list you have not completed. Other things are prone to go at 100k if they are still original such as:

1) Main relay.
2) ABS pump if not exercized.
3) Coil(s)
4) Clutch
5) Drivers seat leather.
6) Spool Valve gaskets.


I am assuming you had a complete 90k service including TB/WP Valve adjustment.

Take care of what needs to be done and ENJOY your NSX for the next 100k!

Yep, I forgot about them spool valve gaskets. I've done mine recently. If their not leaking though, leave em be.

 

[jond]

I have the same question. I'm sitting at ~115,000 curious what I'm about to get into.

So far I've done:
- O2 sensors. 1 went bad, but I replaced all to not worry about it again. Internet prices are way cheaper. No big deal here, just cel light, fine to drive on it to get to the dealer.
- Temp sensor. Cheap fix, not a big deal, just the car won't heat up. They fail open, so it's safe to drive with it broke to the dealer.
- Coil. Luckily it went bad near the dealer. Pretty sure it's safe to drive with one bad to get to the dealer, it's just a rough idle. As they get old, the seals can let water in which corrodes them and they die.
- AC computer that controls the fan speed died. There's lot of 'cheap' options to fix. I went with a fixed board from dali racing and had the dealer swap boards vs the entire unit.
- Taillight gasket started leaking.
- AC tensioner pully started making noise. Not a big deal, safe to drive with it bad, but I guess it can throw the belt which would be bad.
- Alternator. I replaced it because I didn't know where the sound was coming from above. They're WAY cheaper online(OEM reman).
- About to put in my second timingbelt/waterpump in a few months.

 

[davidf]

I have the same question. I'm sitting at ~115,000 curious what I'm about to get into.

So far I've done:
- O2 sensors. 1 went bad, but I replaced all to not worry about it again. Internet prices are way cheaper. No big deal here, just cel light, fine to drive on it to get to the dealer.
- Temp sensor. Cheap fix, not a big deal, just the car won't heat up. They fail open, so it's safe to drive with it broke to the dealer.
- Coil. Luckily it went bad near the dealer. Pretty sure it's safe to drive with one bad to get to the dealer, it's just a rough idle. As they get old, the seals can let water in which corrodes them and they die.
- AC computer that controls the fan speed died. There's lot of 'cheap' options to fix. I went with a fixed board from dali racing and had the dealer swap boards vs the entire unit.
- AC tensioner pully started making noise. Not a big deal, safe to drive with it bad, but I guess it can throw the belt which would be bad.
- Alternator. I replaced it because I didn't know where the sound was coming from above. They're WAY cheaper online(OEM reman).
- About to put in my second timingbelt/waterpump in a few months.

I'd consider the Power Enterprise or Toda belt for their additional strength, but thats just me.

 

[jond]

I'd consider the Power Enterprise or Toda belt for their additional strength, but thats just me.

Awesome, thanks! I wasn't even thinking about looking for something better.
Good stuff.

 

[NSX2398]

I don't see it mentioned anywhere but you might want to have the crankshaft damper thing replaced with OEM or someone had an improved version. It has been known to fail and eat timing belts.

One thing that I had to deal with was the tie-rod ends (IIRC) and had to replace the whole knuckle on both sides because there was no replaceable part that the tie-rod fits into.