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NSX taillight led bulbs

If you want to retain the same drop in place bulb format for the replacement, the problem is the brake lights. Two of the tail light bulbs on each side are dual function - a tail light bulb filament and a brake light bulb filament - 2057 bulb #. If you replace the 2057 filament bulb with a dual LED equivalent the brake lights and tail lights will work; but, the brake light failure detection circuit will likely not work or at best become flakey in it operation. You can either put up with the brake light failure detection circuit illuminating whenever you apply the brakes or disable the detection circuit. Your choice.

If you want to replace the rear turn signal bulbs with LEDs so that everything matches, then you will incur hyper flash. That problem is solvable by modifying the turn signal relay. There is a thread on NSX Prime with details on how to modify the relay if you use the search function.

You did not specify what best means. Brightest or most reliable? If you still want to do the LED switch, there are a lot of vendors including Phillips and Sylvania selling LED replacements. These days, regardless of the vendor name on the package pretty much all of the actual LED chips come from China so pick one and try it out.

I am still rock'n the very first original filament bulbs in my 2000.
One day when all the cars have LEDs, the cars with Edison bulbs will be kind of rare. Even BMW is imitating the ramp-up brightness in their LED turn signals. =)
My comments on LED brake/signal bulbs:
  1. While I think LED's are critical for safety for brake lights because they are brighter and, more importantly, illuminate faster to give following drivers more warning, we already have an LED spoiler light, so LED brake lights might not be quite as critical.
  2. Brake bulbs. Every LED will trigger the bulb-out indicator because the current draw is so low. Lots of threads on how to disable this and it's super easy, but some are unclear because the wire changes color at the connector so you need to be on the correct side of the connector to tap the correct wires. See link below.
  3. Brake bulbs: There are 2 brake bulbs which each have a low power (running light) and high power (brake light) filaments. With LED bulbs, there aren't different LED's, but the internal circuitry illuminates the bulbs lower or higher based on which wire is being powered. However, there is a 3rd light back there that is a separate bulb and only illuminates with the running lights. This also needs to be replaced with an LED, and it takes some trial and error to get them to match. Generally, you want some really cheap, low powered LED's in those running light sockets or it will look like you have your brake lights on. In fact, some have switched to brighter bulbs there and also changed the wiring to make those bulbs brake lights as well.
  4. While they're all made of chinesium, I generally like Boslla LED's for quality. I've had very poor results with Vleds. But I had to just grab some cheap running lights on amazon to get running-light-only bulbs dim enough to match the running light illumination in the "dual filament" brake bulbs.
  5. Several different rear lighting options (USM - all red, JDM - amber flash, 2002+ - round amber flash.) Be sure to get red bulbs for the red lenses and yellow or white bulbs for amber signals.
  6. Signals: Lots of drop-in LED bulbs with built in resistors to avoid hyperflash so you don't need to modify your relay. They do build up heat after a while and start to hyperflash eventually, but that only happens after you have had your signal on for a minute or so.
Thread that will answer all your questions about LED brakes and details on disabling the brake light warning, with the correct wire colors. Also some nice videos comparing LED to incandescent bulbs so you can see the difference in illumination speed: