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Paint question - opinions

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11 December 2008
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Hi all, I currently have a GPW 1992 that I am thinking about selling. There is a gouge/scratch a few inches long on the passenger door that was inherited by me when I purchased the car. Enclosed is a picture - upper left part of the passenger door (the car is dirty overall) . My question: Is possible to just repair/repaint 1 panel? Or must the entire car be resprayed?
If YOU were selling the vehicle, would you repair first or pass on as a discount?


TIA!
 

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I would say pass on the discount, lots of ppl are sticklers for original paint, myself included. I sort of want to repaint my Berlina but have mustered up the courage to have someone do it.


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There should be no problem repainting just the door. Since color fade is less of an issue with white the only thing that may be noticeable is the shine / absence of scratches compared to the adjacent panels. That will be a function of the condition of the paint on the other panels. I would be inclined to get cost estimates for the repair and subtract a portion of this from your no damage ask price. Let the new owner deal with the joys of paint repair if they so choose.
 
I would go with this option first and see.

While the flat white paint isn't hard to match, but being 16 years old, it may be a bit harder. Blending both the front fender and rear quarter panel is a must. However, the passenger side will always be more shiny than the rest of the car with the new clear coat.

I personally prefer a car with a small scratch on the original paint than one with slight mismatched color.

I would say pass on the discount, lots of ppl are sticklers for original paint, myself included. I sort of want to repaint my Berlina but have mustered up the courage to have someone do it.


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I would find a quality body shop that will take the time to match the paint colour as close as possible, and only paint as little as you can get away with. The scratch will have to be blended into the rear quarter panel a bit, but I would keep it to a minimum. You should be able to blend it out using the horizontal line on the rear quarter panel and the door.No need to paint any more than you have to. A professional buff job to the rest of the car should keep the repair from being obvious. Not quite sure why you would want to get anywhere close to the front fender. I can't tell from your picture, but I expect the scratch is too deep to try and have a pro do some compounding and or wet sanding? Like others that have commented, I would rather deal with the scratch, if I was looking at your car, as opposed to having someone paint the whole side of the car. Some buyers would envision the worst ,seeing that a large amount of the car has been painted. Take a picture of the scratch before the repair to be able to show any interested buyers questioning the reason for the new paint.
 
What I would first ask is do you want perfection or not? Perfection would be take to body shop and let them handle it. The car was good enough you bought it with the scratch after all. If not then you could get some urethane matched to your color for less than $75 a quart plus hardener. You could then dab some paint on the scratch and sand/buff. You wouldn't first sand with sand paper however first. They sell little 1 inch long sanding blocks in 1000 or 1500 grit. They look like a little sharpening stone. They allow you to sand just the raised up dabs flat. Then sand with 2000 grit paper and buff it out. I've done it on many cars painted a single stage color that I had left over paint for. The repairs are invisible. I also did this on my 63 vette with base/clear new paint job the repair shop made some nasty scratches on my perfect paint job. https://flic.kr/p/24sJxDg
 
Most shops would say the damage is too close to the QP they would need to blend into the QP. It shouldn’t be much more for the blend of the QP.

I would sell it the way it is but discount the price bc of the scratch.
 
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Most shops would say the damage is too close to the QP they would need to blend into the QP. It shouldn’t be much more for the blend of the QP.

This requirement to blend into adjacent panels when there is a visible gap between panels mystifies me. I had the front hood, bumper and front fenders repainted on my NSX because of extensive stone chip damage with no blending of the paint into the door panel to match. There is no perceptible color difference between the fender and door although I do admit that the perceived color of the Monaco Blue Pearl changes dramatically with lighting and viewing angle which perhaps conspires to disguise any differences. The paint shop did test shoot the paint onto a piece of scrap to check the color match before redoing the body panels - so I probably incurred more labor and paint cost because of the test shoot.
 
Most shops would say the damage is too close to the QP they would need to blend into the QP. It shouldn’t be much more for the blend of the QP.

I would sell it the way it is but discount the price bc of the scratch.

I've been looking for a GWP NSX for a while now. I think you are going to sell it relatively easy whichever way you decide to go. Discounting the price is probably the best way to go though. If you leave the scratch, but you discount the price by the average repair estimates you get, then you have a pretty known quantity. If you opt to fix the scratch, you will be out the cost to repair and also run the risk that you or the potential buyer don't like the quality of the repair. In that situation you are out the repair money and might still have to reduce the price.
 
This requirement to blend into adjacent panels when there is a visible gap between panels mystifies me. I had the front hood, bumper and front fenders repainted on my NSX because of extensive stone chip damage with no blending of the paint into the door panel to match. There is no perceptible color difference between the fender and door although I do admit that the perceived color of the Monaco Blue Pearl changes dramatically with lighting and viewing angle which perhaps conspires to disguise any differences. The paint shop did test shoot the paint onto a piece of scrap to check the color match before redoing the body panels - so I probably incurred more labor and paint cost because of the test shoot.

I agree but many shops in the industry request/require the blend to make their jobs a lot easier. I’ve seen really good painters not needing to blend and I’ve seen poor quality even with the blend. It’s all about the shop.
 
This.....

I've been looking for a GWP NSX for a while now. I think you are going to sell it relatively easy whichever way you decide to go. Discounting the price is probably the best way to go though. If you leave the scratch, but you discount the price by the average repair estimates you get, then you have a pretty known quantity. If you opt to fix the scratch, you will be out the cost to repair and also run the risk that you or the potential buyer don't like the quality of the repair. In that situation you are out the repair money and might still have to reduce the price.
 
I appreciate the opinions and comments guys!
I think I'm going to have the car detailed with a paint correction for selling purposes and leave everything else as is for the new owner.
 
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