Poll on Brakes
- Thread starter gobble
- Start date
I agree that the NSX rotors do warp, its not just the pad deposit thing. After a track day they'd cool and be ok, then the next track day it would steadily come back over a 2 laps...a really loud rumble when i brake and the steering wheel would shake around! Scary!
Unfortunately Honda refused to replace the discs and decided to cut down the discs instead and the problem came back.
The car now has new discs and its fine. Although at this point the stone guards were removed too.
-Rob
Unfortunately Honda refused to replace the discs and decided to cut down the discs instead and the problem came back.
The car now has new discs and its fine. Although at this point the stone guards were removed too.
-Rob
I could be wrong as I'm still not a track rat/expert. As I'm still in the intermediate/advanced group; and I only been one track.
I also noticed the brake shudder when my rotors got hot, however, I learnt to ignore the "scary" feeling as Rob mentioned, I found that the brakes worked as good!!! Yeah, it shakes the wheel, but the car still slowing down as it supposed to.. Comparing braking from 140+ to 70 and the rear fishtailing(not quite, but floating), the steering wheel shudder and noise doesn't quite concerned me as much...
I also noticed the brake shudder when my rotors got hot, however, I learnt to ignore the "scary" feeling as Rob mentioned, I found that the brakes worked as good!!! Yeah, it shakes the wheel, but the car still slowing down as it supposed to.. Comparing braking from 140+ to 70 and the rear fishtailing(not quite, but floating), the steering wheel shudder and noise doesn't quite concerned me as much...
The decision to go with big brakes I think depends on the circuits you intend to frequent... Some circuits are harder on brakes than others...
One of the circuits I attend regularly has a first gear hairpin at the end of a 240km/h back straight, The OEM brakes just were not up to the continued punishment...
However for the street, the OEM brakes are fine
One of the circuits I attend regularly has a first gear hairpin at the end of a 240km/h back straight, The OEM brakes just were not up to the continued punishment...
However for the street, the OEM brakes are fine
nsxtasy said:
My rotors from the Windy City BMW event, did exactly the opposite, during the weekend, and still up to today! (only about 50 miles on the car since)
They would shutter big time when cold, and would smooth out by turn 12 on the first lap (now being hot) A hour later for the next session, same thing on and on. On the street, they shutter 100% of the time now due to deposits (you can visually see them) because they never get hot enough, and it has not been long enough to naturally clean them off from normal use. (too lazy to take themoff and clean them, because a BBK is coming)
Oh yeah HP+ pads, oem rotors. The pads worked great btw.......that is until the fluid started vaporizing due to my heavy foot!
robfenn said:
Those guards also protect you from cooking things that should not be cooked.
They need to come off for a big brake conversion anyway..
I might need to retract my comment i made that OEM brakes ok...we have newish discs..well, first track day.. and they are shot. I hope it's just brake pad deposit!
-Rob
I might need to retract my comment i made that OEM brakes ok...we have newish discs..well, first track day.. and they are shot. I hope it's just brake pad deposit!
-Rob
I have also experienced brake shudder in my first few track events and upon close inspection I found minute hairline spider web cracks in places on the rotor surface. I altered my braking technique and saved the brakes for a few more laps.
Now I use slotted OEM rotors and, after driving hard braking courses like Laguna Seca, I have never experienced the problem again. I also have removed the stone guards and added Dali air deflectors to aide cooling. Mostly I attribute the lack of shudder to the slotted rotors.
My .02
Now I use slotted OEM rotors and, after driving hard braking courses like Laguna Seca, I have never experienced the problem again. I also have removed the stone guards and added Dali air deflectors to aide cooling. Mostly I attribute the lack of shudder to the slotted rotors.
My .02
Brake rotors used for the track have a tendency to develop cracks over time, as they go through cycles of heat and expansion on the track, and cooling and contraction once the car sits. They start out as the hairline spider web type cracks on the surface. They gradually expand. When they reach the point where you can feel the crack with the edge of your fingernail (only try this when they're cool), you should replace them, before the rotor cracks and falls apart. Keep a close eye on them. Also, keep in mind that the cracks fill in when the brakes heat up; they will be more noticeable (both visually and through the pedal) after they cool down.ChopsJazz said:
In my experience, ALL rotors crack. I have used solid-faced, slotted, and cross-drilled rotors, and they have all eventually developed cracks, and at approximately the same rate. I am currently using slotted two-piece rotors (not to mention cooling ducts), and while they take longer before developing cracks, they too crack (as have the pair currently on my NSX).
Even if you haven't seen any cracking, I recommend that you continue to examine them closely, and especially that you do so BEFORE track sessions, not afterwards when they are hot.
nsxtasy said:
Really?! Wow. I cracked drilled ones in no time.
p.s. Driving around on cracked rotors? Shame on you!
hehehe I wait until mine look like this before replacing. I usually don't catch cracks until they're clearly visible on the outside edge of the rotor. Anything on the face doesn't really worry me, and are usually not raised enough to feel.
Just a note: I did NOT feel a shudder on the brake pedal when this happened, I just saw it by inspection!
