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RE: Suspension kit upgrades

Joined
21 July 2020
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47
RE: Suspension kit upgrades

Hey guys,
Recently got a 91 X completely stock w/ 20k plus miles. What suspension kits do you recommend? No tracks or race circuits, just street/canyons/hwys, mostly for looks, slightly lower stance while maintaining comfort, most important is the ability to go back to stock. Should I have a change of heart...
Any Yes, New wheels 17/18. Thanks in advance!!!
 
Hey guys,
Recently got a 91 X completely stock w/ 20k plus miles. What suspension kits do you recommend? No tracks or race circuits, just street/canyons/hwys, mostly for looks, slightly lower stance while maintaining comfort, most important is the ability to go back to stock. Should I have a change of heart...
Any Yes, New wheels 17/18. Thanks in advance!!!

Honestly for your stated purpose, putting some lowering springs on your OEM dampers should be fine. I am partial to the Swift kit or the old Dali Racing units if you can find them. Eibachs sag and the H&R lowers too much. You might also want to refresh your bump stops and top hat rubber- you'll be pleased with how it firms things up versus the crusty 30-year old rubber that is in there now. Just my 2 cents.
 
[MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION], Thx for the advice! I might consider that, did find one Dali springs/Bilstein kit. I know B/Shocks can wear out, what the life line? Miles/years. And does the Dali springs have a life line?
 
[MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION], Thx for the advice! I might consider that, did find one Dali springs/Bilstein kit. I know B/Shocks can wear out, what the life line? Miles/years. And does the Dali springs have a life line?

Bilsteins last a long time on the NSX- similar to OEM. If they are leaking, you can have them rebuilt, though it is nearly the same cost to replace them with new units. I steer folks to these shocks all the time, as they are a good value proposition for those who do not want to go through the hassle and delay of sourcing factory shocks from Japan. But, since you have low-mile OEM shocks, it would be much less expensive (assuming the shocks are still ok) to simply change out the springs and bumpstops. This is purely anecdotal, but I've never heard of a Dali spring kit wearing out.
 
whatever you choose it will wake up your car...the sportsmind will be back..
 
Swift springs (Part # 4H015 ) and 1997 OEM dampers. You'll get a nice drop, good ride, and dampers that are closely matched to the spring rates (most important). The 1997 dampers have higher rebound and compression rates than your OEM 1991 dampers, but lower rates than the Bilsteins (hence better ride than the Bilsteins). The Swift springs are progressive and slightly stiffer than OEM and will match up nicely with the slightly higher rate 1997 dampers. This will be your most cost effective option IMO.

As far as wheels go, I would stick with your OEM 15/16 setup. They are forged (light) and actually a great match for the suspension. Match them with the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R and you will have a great canyon carver. Going to 17/18 is going to make your OEM brakes look small, tires are more expensive and there is no real performance benefit.
 
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Swift springs (Part # 4H015 ) and 1997 OEM dampers. You'll get a nice drop, good ride, and dampers that are closely matched to the spring rates (most important). The 1997 dampers have higher rebound and compression rates than your OEM 1991 dampers, but lower rates than the Bilsteins (hence better ride than the Bilsteins). The Swift springs are progressive and slight stiffer than OEM and will match up nicely with the slightly higher rate 1997 dampers. This will be your most cost effective option IMO.

As far as wheels go, I would stick with your OEM 15/16 setup. They are forged (light) and actually a great match for the suspension. Match them with the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R and you will have a great canyon carver. Going to 17/18 is going to make your OEM brakes look small, tires are more expensive and there is no real performance benefit.

++1 This is fantastic advice.
 
Swift springs (Part # 4H015 ) and 1997 OEM dampers. You'll get a nice drop, good ride, and dampers that are closely matched to the spring rates (most important). The 1997 dampers have higher rebound and compression rates than your OEM 1991 dampers, but lower rates than the Bilsteins (hence better ride than the Bilsteins). The Swift springs are progressive and slight stiffer than OEM and will match up nicely with the slightly higher rate 1997 dampers. This will be your most cost effective option IMO.

As far as wheels go, I would stick with your OEM 15/16 setup. They are forged (light) and actually a great match for the suspension. Match them with the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R and you will have a great canyon carver. Going to 17/18 is going to make your OEM brakes look small, tires are more expensive and there is no real performance benefit.

Thanks for the insight! I don’t think I’ll be riding with oem 15/16. I have to go with 17/18 wheels, just a personal preference and vision. But, I will still keep oem wheels for the future. I’m going to try the Dali/ Bilstien set first, since I found one. It’s not too much on the pocket, to try.
 
A set of 15mm spacers on the front and 25mm spacers on the rear of your 15/16 might change your mind. The car will handle better too. Since I have 17/18 on my car I can't be too critical of your desire to go that route. Good luck with whatever direction you choose to go.
 
A set of 15mm spacers on the front and 25mm spacers on the rear of your 15/16 might change your mind. The car will handle better too. Since I have 17/18 on my car I can't be too critical of your desire to go that route. Good luck with whatever direction you choose to go.

Yea, I just don’t like the design of the oem 15/16. IMO, it makes it look old. On the Dali/Bilstien set that I found, seller told me he bought it new two years ago. I was planning to have Autowave reparable NSX mechanic in CA. The mechanic told me I might want to think twice? Dali springs been out of production for 10yrs. He said if the car sat for 10yrs on it, springs will sag. He told me to get the Swift springs(budget set up) or KW V3, but the wait is months. What your thoughts? I’m a bit confuses, who’s right? Or is Autowave just trying to get deal done themselves.
 
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Yea, I just don’t like the design of the oem 15/16. IMO, it makes it look old. On the Dali/Bilstien set that I found, seller told me he bought it new two years ago. I was planning to have Autowave reparable NSX mechanic in CA. The mechanic told me I might want to think twice? Dali springs been out of production for 10yrs. He said if the car sat for 10yrs on it, springs will sag. He told me to get the Swift springs(budget set up) or KW V3, but the wait is months. What your thoughts? I’m a bit confuses, who’s right? Or is Autowave just trying to get deal done themselves.

Well, honestly the car is old . . . LOL.

With the 15/16 at factory ride height you have the look of a 4x4. It doesn't look great. Drop it down .8" in front and .6" in the rear with the Swift springs along with the wheel spacers and the stance looks much, much better.

BTW - you'll find the ride with the 17/18 to be harsher due to the narrower side wall. Plus if your streets are a torn up mess those 17/18 could get bent when hammered in a pothole. I'm probably beating a dead horse here but want you to be fully informed.

OK - back to the springs. Hard to say whether a 10 YO spring will sag or has already sagged, but if it was me I'd pass on any used spring. The cost differential is not that much between new and used and honestly who wants to replace their springs twice (2x the labor costs) because the first set sagged. One of the pluses with the Swift springs is that they are progressive. This will give you a better ride than linear springs but still have the handling characteristics you are looking for.

The KW3 are also a great solution and would give you the ability to adjust your ride height vs the fixed length Swifts. The KW dampers are also matched to the spring rate which is a plus. Obviously cost ($2,500+) with the KW3s are a big consideration and honestly unless you are serious about getting into HPDE days the adjustability of the KWs is kind of overrated. People will say you need it but once the rebound and compression are correctly set for the street you'll rarely ever change it. While I don't have KW (I have MCS) people who do have them love them.

One word about lowering; lower is not always better. Yeah there are owners out there who have their NSX slammed to the ground and to some it looks cool. I can tell you from first-hand experience that lower is not better. You'll tear up (or tear off) your front spoiler (which is NLA from Honda BTW) and also rub holes in your fender liners (I did) under compression. Handling is compromised and every speed bump and parking lot entrance will present a challenge to your front end.

If you go with the Swift springs definitely get the 1997 NSX dampers. Even though your car has 20k miles the valving is not ideal for the higher rate Swifts and your ride quality will be compromised. Swift springs are in stock at Vivid Racing https://www.vividracing.com/swift-springs-sport-springs-acura-nsx-9105-p-151455382.html

1997 dampers look to be in stock a www.acurapartsforless.com and you have a 5% discount using 5NSX at checkout.

I don't think you can go wrong with either option (Swift or KW). It really comes down to how much you want to spend. The end results are going to be largely the same.
 
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One additional note about the KW3 - these have spring rates of 343lb IIRC and they are linear not progressive. That's higher than the Swift springs whose rates in the front vary from 146-218lbs and the rears are 157-258lbs. The higher number is the rate when the spring is fully compressed.

Stock 1991 rates for comparison are 170lb in front and 220lb in the rear. So as you can see the Swift springs are slightly stiffer than OEM but not so much as to significantly impact ride quality.

The KW3 will be noticeably firmer even on their softest setting. Not saying this is bad in any way as most people who upgrade to the KW3 want a firmer ride. It's just something to make note of. Combine the KW3 with 17/18 wheels and you will notice more road irregularities and your ride will be firmer / harsher than what you currently have.
 
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One additional note about the KW3 - these have spring rates of 343lb IIRC and they are linear not progressive. That's higher than the Swift springs whose rates in the front vary from 146-218lbs and the rears are 157-258lbs. The higher number is the rate when the spring is fully compressed.

Stock 1991 rates for comparison are 170lb in front and 220lb in the rear. So as you can see the Swift springs are slightly stiffer than OEM but not so much as to significantly impact ride quality.

The KW3 will be noticeably firmer even on their softest setting. Not saying this is bad in any way as most people who upgrade to the KW3 want a firmer ride. It's just something to make note of. Combine the KW3 with 17/18 wheels and you will notice more road irregularities and your ride will be firmer / harsher than what you currently have.

Ok, Thx for all the info! Very helpful in determining all the choices.
 
One additional note about the KW3 - these have spring rates of 343lb IIRC and they are linear not progressive. That's higher than the Swift springs whose rates in the front vary from 146-218lbs and the rears are 157-258lbs. The higher number is the rate when the spring is fully compressed.

Stock 1991 rates for comparison are 170lb in front and 220lb in the rear. So as you can see the Swift springs are slightly stiffer than OEM but not so much as to significantly impact ride quality.

The KW3 will be noticeably firmer even on their softest setting. Not saying this is bad in any way as most people who upgrade to the KW3 want a firmer ride. It's just something to make note of. Combine the KW3 with 17/18 wheels and you will notice more road irregularities and your ride will be firmer / harsher than what you currently have.

Looking into the 97 dampers you suggested, on the the Acura site you refer. I have a question, do I choice the 97 Targa? or 97 couple? I thought the 97 only come in Targa. The 97 Targa dampers list as 95-05 years application. The 97 dampers Couple 97-01 year. Which is the correct one I should look into? Thx!
 
Looking into the 97 dampers you suggested, on the the Acura site you refer. I have a question, do I choice the 97 Targa? or 97 couple? I thought the 97 only come in Targa. The 97 Targa dampers list as 95-05 years application. The 97 dampers Couple 97-01 year. Which is the correct one I should look into? Thx!

Get the coupe dampers. Even though it lists 1997 - 2001 as fitment years they will fit your 1991 as well. Part number (from 1991) changed because dampening specifications changed.

Front damper - 06511-SL0-961Rear Damper - 06521-SL0-961
 
Get the coupe dampers. Even though it lists 1997 - 2001 as fitment years they will fit your 1991 as well. Part number (from 1991) changed because dampening specifications changed.

Front damper - 06511-SL0-961Rear Damper - 06521-SL0-961

Do I need any other parts to make it work? Any other nuts, bumper stops, hardware kits, and etc? Beside, the Swift Springs kit and 97 dampers front and rear, to plug and play. Will the 97 dampers connect directly to the oem 91 dampers area and parts? All the the parts are enter changeable from the 91 to 97 dampers?
 
Do I need any other parts to make it work? Any other nuts, bumper stops, hardware kits, and etc? Beside, the Swift Springs kit and 97 dampers front and rear, to plug and play. Will the 97 dampers connect directly to the oem 91 dampers area and parts? All the the parts are enter changeable from the 91 to 97 dampers?

Have you talked to your shop / mechanic? They can advise you best. Having said that my general rule-of-thumb is to replace any rubber part with new as well as critical nuts and bolts. Keep in mind your rubber parts are almost 30 years old. If it were me I'd replace what I've highlighted in the pictures below.

FRONT:

Front.JPG

REAR:

Rear.JPG

Also take a look at your dust cover boots and replace them if torn or damaged. Sway bar bushes would also be on my list because, again, they are almost 30 years old.

Science of Speed has complete shock absorber top mounts (spp-82X) that have stiffer urethane bushings and lightweight machined billet 6061 aluminum top hats. Get the 10mm version. This is not a requirement but nice to do since you'll have the suspension apart. If you go this route you will not need most of what is highlighted in the above pictures.

Once done you'll need to get your car aligned.
 
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Have you talked to your shop / mechanic? They can advise you best. Having said that my general rule-of-thumb is to replace any rubber part with new as well as critical nuts and bolts. Keep in mind your rubber parts are almost 30 years old. If it were me I'd replace what I've highlighted in the pictures below.

FRONT:

View attachment 166979

REAR:

View attachment 166980

Also take a look at your dust cover boots and replace them if torn or damaged. Sway bar bushes would also be on my list because, again, they are almost 30 years old.

Science of Speed has complete shock absorber top mounts (spp-82X) that have stiffer urethane bushings and lightweight machined billet 6061 aluminum top hats. Get the 10mm version. This is not a requirement but nice to do since you'll have the suspension apart. If you go this route you will not need most of what is highlighted in the above pictures.

Once done you'll need to get your car aligned.

After figuring all the prices on the 97 dampers and New rubber stoppers, and etc. This set up would be close to $2K with the Swift, and most of the parts are on back orders, with no clear dates in site... I oped to go with Swift springs, Bilstein shocks and the SOS upper mount(you suggested) combo. Hopefully this will satisfy my need. Thanks again, for all the advice and inputs!
 
After figuring all the prices on the 97 dampers and New rubber stoppers, and etc. This set up would be close to $2K with the Swift, and most of the parts are on back orders, with no clear dates in site... I oped to go with Swift springs, Bilstein shocks and the SOS upper mount(you suggested) combo. Hopefully this will satisfy my need. Thanks again, for all the advice and inputs!

The Bilsteins are a good second option if the OEM 1997 dampers are not available. Should match up well with the Swift springs. One word of caution / advice; install the Swift springs on the upper perch on the Bilsteins. You may be tempted to go with the lower perch to get additional lowering, but it will be too low, especially in the front and you will rub the inner fender liner most any time you hit a bump.

Post up pictures when you are finished.
 
The Bilsteins are a good second option if the OEM 1997 dampers are not available. Should match up well with the Swift springs. One word of caution / advice; install the Swift springs on the upper perch on the Bilsteins. You may be tempted to go with the lower perch to get additional lowering, but it will be too low, especially in the front and you will rub the inner fender liner most any time you hit a bump.

Post up pictures when you are finished.

Didn’t not know that, was planning to put on the lower perch. My thoughts, Swift springs are lower about 0.80 inch and setting the Bilstein lower perch sit at 7/8 inch, thinking it matches pretty well. Any idea how much lower will it be, with Bilstein setting at lower perch?

Will do on posting pictures,
 
Didn’t not know that, was planning to put on the lower perch. My thoughts, Swift springs are lower about 0.80 inch and setting the Bilstein lower perch sit at 7/8 inch, thinking it matches pretty well. Any idea how much lower will it be, with Bilstein setting at lower perch?

Will do on posting pictures,

Doing both will work out like this.

.875 + .80 = 1.675” lower in the front.

For practical purposes this is too low and the front tires (especially if you go 17/18) will rub the inner fender liners every time you hit any kind of dip in the road.

I had Tein-S springs (.7" lower) with the Bilsteins on the lower perch and it rubbed a lot. Could not wait to get them off.

If you are doing the work yourself there is no harm in trying the Swifts on the lower perch. However if you are having a shop do it you’ll need to budget for a second go-around as I don’t think you’ll be happy with the ride on the lower perch.
 
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agree on the upper perch..
 
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