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Remove rear axles.
- Thread starter BlKeViL
- Start date
If you mark the camber adjusters you can restore the alignment to the original position. Removal will require taking off the following:
1. Large 36mm nut in the center of the hub
2. Rear Rod Beam (Big U shaped aluminim member under the engine)
3. Lower a-arm inside mounting bolts (including camber adjustment, mark it)
4. The two lower shock mounting bolts and sway bar mounting bolts (I pull the sway bar back and out of the way to make it easy to swing out the rear knuckles, especially on the drivers side.)
Remove the inner CV's from the trans while you have someone else pulling the knuckes out and up, as you CAREFULLY pull the axles out of the trans case, so you do not damage the seals.
Then pull the axles inward, out of the hubs. If they are tight, a ball peen hammer(ball end) against the axle stub end (center)and another hammer will gently push the axle shaft out of the hub.
Reverse it all to put it back together.
HTH,
LarryB
1. Large 36mm nut in the center of the hub
2. Rear Rod Beam (Big U shaped aluminim member under the engine)
3. Lower a-arm inside mounting bolts (including camber adjustment, mark it)
4. The two lower shock mounting bolts and sway bar mounting bolts (I pull the sway bar back and out of the way to make it easy to swing out the rear knuckles, especially on the drivers side.)
Remove the inner CV's from the trans while you have someone else pulling the knuckes out and up, as you CAREFULLY pull the axles out of the trans case, so you do not damage the seals.
Then pull the axles inward, out of the hubs. If they are tight, a ball peen hammer(ball end) against the axle stub end (center)and another hammer will gently push the axle shaft out of the hub.
Reverse it all to put it back together.
HTH,
LarryB
Larry Bastanza said:
Larry, Looking on pages 16-4 and 16-5 of the service manual, there are two ball joints that are needed to be removed before replacing the drive axle. Are these a PITA to remove
Do local part stores (Adv Auto, PepBoys) carry something like the special tools that were mentioned in the svc manual that were needed to remove these or can you hit them with a hammer to make them separate? According to this thread, DanO states that there is a TSB recommending not to remove these. Is he correct?
i think the tool you are talkin about are ball joint presses. i dont know if pep boys sell the actual press. just curious why would you need to take the ball joint apart to get the axle off ??? i can see the ball joint boots but not the actual ball joint. just curious not starting problems:>
jgtcnsx said:
In the service manual it says you must use a ball joint remover to separate the toe and lower control arm in order to remove the driveshaft. I was just wondering if pep boys sold something like this or is there another way to separate these control arms
I remember hitting my control arms with a hamer on my prelude to make them separate. Here is a pic from the service manual.It is also says in the service manual that you need to drain the transmission fluid
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oh ok i see what your sayin. wierd i never heard of that. i guess you learn something new everyday. ya when i had to change axels in my teg it was just the ball joint boots that had to come off not the actual ball joint.but i guess its different in the nsx. thanks for the diagram
If you are not replacing the rear knuckle or lower ball joint boot, NEVER separate the ball joint. There is potential it will be damaged, and there is a TSB that talks about a change in this procedure when removing the trans, not to separate the ball joint as decribed in the manual.
Instead of separating the ball joint remove both bolts that hold the lower arm to the chassis (front one and adjuster bolt), after you mark the adjuster, let the lower arm hang as you swing out the knuckle vs. separating the ball joint to allow the lower arm to swing. Additionall be careful to remove the wheel speed sensor wire (2 10mm bolts) from the lower a-arm so the sensor wire is not stress as you move the lower arm around.
You will need to "pop" the inner CV joints out of the trans by using a pry bar to get past the detent of the circlips holding them in. If oyu are doing the right side use two pry bars at 180 degrees apart to give even pressure so it comes out straight. Don't forget to drain the trans fluid too, it will make for a biug mess, ask me how I know.
HTH,
LarryB
Instead of separating the ball joint remove both bolts that hold the lower arm to the chassis (front one and adjuster bolt), after you mark the adjuster, let the lower arm hang as you swing out the knuckle vs. separating the ball joint to allow the lower arm to swing. Additionall be careful to remove the wheel speed sensor wire (2 10mm bolts) from the lower a-arm so the sensor wire is not stress as you move the lower arm around.
You will need to "pop" the inner CV joints out of the trans by using a pry bar to get past the detent of the circlips holding them in. If oyu are doing the right side use two pry bars at 180 degrees apart to give even pressure so it comes out straight. Don't forget to drain the trans fluid too, it will make for a biug mess, ask me how I know
.HTH,
LarryB
Larry, Thanks for the response. You really save me a lot of headaches
P.S. I guess either way you look at it, removing driveshafts are a PITA!!!
P.S. I guess either way you look at it, removing driveshafts are a PITA!!!
Larry Bastanza said:
I've completed steps 1 and 2. Was wondering in step 3 can you remove the bolts for the upper a-arm vice lower? If this is possible, I don't have to worry about the camber.
Not a good idea. The upper arm bushings are spring loaded in there static droop position. If you take those bolts out you have a problem threading them back into the upper cradle. I have seen these stripped because of this mistake. VERY BAD.
What you need to do is mark the camber bolt positions. Best is a small punch mark on the adjuster and the a-arm, then just realign them up when you put them back together (I have also used a Sharpie to mark them now and then). Make sure you do not mix up the left and right side bolts if you are doing both. That would make for a heck of a misalignment.
ALSO: I screwed up, there is a step 2A. You need to separate the toe link from the rear beam by removing the one bolt at the rear beam end. No alignment here, just reassemble. THEN there is a step 2B(optional). I remove the bolts (4) that hold the rear stabilizer bar so it hangs free, then I remove the lower shock bolts. You may get away without this, but I do it so I can easily move the rear knuckle around, insurance to not damage the seal in the trans when you pull the shaft out on the left side.
Sorry, senior moment
HTH,
LarryB
What you need to do is mark the camber bolt positions. Best is a small punch mark on the adjuster and the a-arm, then just realign them up when you put them back together (I have also used a Sharpie to mark them now and then). Make sure you do not mix up the left and right side bolts if you are doing both. That would make for a heck of a misalignment
.ALSO: I screwed up, there is a step 2A. You need to separate the toe link from the rear beam by removing the one bolt at the rear beam end. No alignment here, just reassemble. THEN there is a step 2B(optional). I remove the bolts (4) that hold the rear stabilizer bar so it hangs free, then I remove the lower shock bolts. You may get away without this, but I do it so I can easily move the rear knuckle around, insurance to not damage the seal in the trans when you pull the shaft out on the left side.
Sorry, senior moment
HTH,
LarryB
I can't get the axle out of the bearing assembly on the passenger side Something just doesn't seem right I am pulling and tugging, but I can only get it to budge a little bit. Not to much room to work with a screw driver either.
Something just doesn't seem right I am pulling and tugging, but I can only get it to budge a little bit. Not to much room to work with a screw driver either.
OK,
So the axle is free from the trans and it is hanging, right? Take a ball peen hammer and put the ball on the center of the axle (where you took the nut off). There is a small dimple in the end of the stub axle where the ball should be placed. Get another hanmmer and give it a whack. It should not be too hard to get it to start to slide inward. Once it moves about an inch, you can pull it out from the inside.
If you would like, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I can e-mail you back a pic
HTH,
LarryB
So the axle is free from the trans and it is hanging, right? Take a ball peen hammer and put the ball on the center of the axle (where you took the nut off). There is a small dimple in the end of the stub axle where the ball should be placed. Get another hanmmer and give it a whack
. It should not be too hard to get it to start to slide inward. Once it moves about an inch, you can pull it out from the inside.If you would like, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I can e-mail you back a pic
HTH,
LarryB
Larry Bastanza said:
:redface: :redface: :redface:
Hey Ty...
although you're not using it.. i have that 'special tool' you're talkin about.. just a future reference thing...
x
although you're not using it.. i have that 'special tool' you're talkin about.. just a future reference thing...
x
I got the axle out the abnormal way All I did was take off the large boot bands for both axles and removed the drive shaft and attached components. Both inboard and outboard joints are still in the hub and bearing assembly (psgr side). Now I can replace my inner and outer joint boots :redface:
All I did was take off the large boot bands for both axles and removed the drive shaft and attached components. Both inboard and outboard joints are still in the hub and bearing assembly (psgr side). Now I can replace my inner and outer joint boots :redface:Hello,
I have a problem to remove the passager rear axle.
I remove coilover,stabilizer bar
The Intermediate shaft is on my gearbox
My axle is only on the intermediate shaft, but free on the other side.
I can't remove the axle from the intermediate shaft, I don't understand why
I think the circlip on the intermediate shaft is my problem.
New Axle
I have a problem to remove the passager rear axle.
I remove coilover,stabilizer bar
The Intermediate shaft is on my gearbox
My axle is only on the intermediate shaft, but free on the other side.
I can't remove the axle from the intermediate shaft, I don't understand why
I think the circlip on the intermediate shaft is my problem.
New Axle
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Look at post #9 above
You will need to "pop" the inner CV joints out of the trans by using a pry bar to get past the detent of the circlips holding them in. If you are doing the right side use two pry bars at 180 degrees apart to give even pressure so it comes out straight.
BTW, get rid of that FRAM oil filter while you are in there, not a good choice
HTH,
LarryB
You will need to "pop" the inner CV joints out of the trans by using a pry bar to get past the detent of the circlips holding them in. If you are doing the right side use two pry bars at 180 degrees apart to give even pressure so it comes out straight.
BTW, get rid of that FRAM oil filter while you are in there, not a good choice
HTH,
LarryB
You could also try the following:
Plan A:
If the driveshaft doesn't sepreate with use of just one screwdriver/prybar, try rotating the driveshaft 90 deg. and try again. If it fails, turn the shaft some more and try again.
Plan B:
If it still won't budge try plan A but now keep pulling the shaft while turning (but now 180 deg.). When finished with turning, try and wiggle the screwdriver a bit as to centre the C-clip on the driveshaft. Most of the time the driveshaft pops out with almost ridiculous low effort.
Good luck!
Roger
Plan A:
If the driveshaft doesn't sepreate with use of just one screwdriver/prybar, try rotating the driveshaft 90 deg. and try again. If it fails, turn the shaft some more and try again.
Plan B:
If it still won't budge try plan A but now keep pulling the shaft while turning (but now 180 deg.). When finished with turning, try and wiggle the screwdriver a bit as to centre the C-clip on the driveshaft. Most of the time the driveshaft pops out with almost ridiculous low effort.
Good luck!
Roger
I got the axle out the abnormal way
Anybody else use this method? Did you encounter any difficulty? Problems strapping the boots while they're on the car? If so please let me know the procedure you used.
Got the pass side done today! Took me 5hrs and saved $400.
I couldn't get the inboard cup past the detent no matter how hard I pried, so I pulled the axle out minus the inboard cup, figuring I could rebuild the inboard joint while the cup is still attached to the car. After taking a couple minutes to line up the bearings while rebuilding the outboard end on a bench vise, I realized that it would be a freaking miracle if I could line up the inboard bearings while the axle was hanging off the rear knuckle.
THIS DOESN'T WORK. Aligning the bearings to the tracks requires precision that is impossible while you're wrestling a floating 50lb knuckle/axle assembly. I pried the inner cup once more and finally got it out. Putting the axle back in was 10x easier than getting it out.
None of you are probably stupid enough to try taking this shortcut. I just wanted to share my misery.
Also, I don't see how you're getting 180deg of access for the passenger side inboard joint. There's the oil pan to the front and the lower trailing arm support to the rear. I only had around 90deg of access, and got it out with one prybar.
I couldn't get the inboard cup past the detent no matter how hard I pried, so I pulled the axle out minus the inboard cup, figuring I could rebuild the inboard joint while the cup is still attached to the car. After taking a couple minutes to line up the bearings while rebuilding the outboard end on a bench vise, I realized that it would be a freaking miracle if I could line up the inboard bearings while the axle was hanging off the rear knuckle.
THIS DOESN'T WORK. Aligning the bearings to the tracks requires precision that is impossible while you're wrestling a floating 50lb knuckle/axle assembly. I pried the inner cup once more and finally got it out. Putting the axle back in was 10x easier than getting it out.
None of you are probably stupid enough to try taking this shortcut. I just wanted to share my misery.
Also, I don't see how you're getting 180deg of access for the passenger side inboard joint. There's the oil pan to the front and the lower trailing arm support to the rear. I only had around 90deg of access, and got it out with one prybar.
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I've found a large prybar worked best on the LH side & brass punch & hammer on the RH side. I could never get the RH side out with a prybar, but popped straight out with the punch & hammer.
