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Rising from the ashes - Valhalla

So a little update on the latest adventures. Installed the quick release hub and new steering wheel. Took a bunch of times to get the horn to work properly. I did research a bunch on getting this working but ended up just hooking the horn button up to every pin on both connectors in the steering hub and finally found the right one. All good there. One thing i noticed right away, beside the loss of weight, is the way smaller diameter of the actual wheel. I had my OEM wheel re-wrapped with two extra layers and new leather and that wheel felt great in my hands. This new wheel feels like a toothpick in comparison. But I do like it on the track. FYI it is the same diameter as OEM at 350mm. Also replaced my Zeitronix black box and wideband sensor, as it was the culprit for the flickering display. Currently working with #jwmelvin on a new design for a LED gauge cluster for the dash. Will update when we make some more progress.

Speaking of track, I did two days at Wild Horse Pass West a couple of weeks ago. Prior to that I corner balanced the car and had it re-aligned. That was an eye opening experience. It appears that the initial setting of the suspension was way off. The front springs were pre-loaded by at least 3/4 of an inch or about 600 lbs! So I backed them down, adjusted all the coil-overs for proper height and rake and then turned the dampers down to 12F and 10R and it was like driving a new car. Cross weighting was dead on at 50% with me in the car. Then off to alignment where we were able to max caster and camber all around (equal on both sides of course) and set toe in .13 rear and out .13 in the front. The car tracked flawlessly both days. I did firm up the dampers to 20 clicks front and rear and the car remained perfectly balanced.

But all was not quite perfect. While the car did everything I asked of it, and the tuning I have been doing was bang on, some gremlins did arise. I noticed some brake fluid weeping under the brake master cylinder, onto the brake booster. Not enough to impact my track days but I would have to replace it. If you ever have to do this, be sure to bench bleed the master before you install it. Also, speed bleeders will be your friend. Also while looking around i saw brake fluid under the dash where the clutch master resides. So replace all clutch hydraulics and add a speed bleeder to the slave. Some quick tricks here are to open the reservoir and attach tubing to the bleeder with a bottle attached and open the bleeder up to drain all of the fluid out before removing the master. Way easier and no mess. And when you install the new parts, place the tube and bottle back on the bleeder and let gravity fill the system. You will do far less manual bleeding afterward.

But the most concerning part was in both afternoon sessions the car would start to overheat. I'd not experienced this before while running much hotter ambient temperatures at Thunderhill last year. So I slowed down and had to abandon both late sessions. I guess the original radiator had finally had enough. So a new Koyorad is on it's way and I'll install that in the next couple of weeks. I'm sure that when I remove the original one, the fins will be packed full of junk. I've seen this before on an NSX with more mileage. But the extra capacity of my new radiator should provide me with a better safety margin.

So when this final bit of maintenance is complete, the car will be ready for duty in 2020. It has never run better, handled better, and will be near bullet-proof. Damn, what a good feeling to own a well sorted out NSX. May you all share in this feeling this upcoming year. Pics to follow of some of my handy work;
 
[MENTION=25419]Valhalla[/MENTION] Glad to hear everything is working great! What Sparco wheel did you go with? I think I'm finally ready to try a non-SRS steering wheel....
 
@Valhalla Glad to hear everything is working great! What Sparco wheel did you go with? I think I'm finally ready to try a non-SRS steering wheel....

I went with an OMP wheel and here are the specs on it;

https://www.ompamerica.com/en_us/car-kart-parts/steering-wheels/wrc-75925.html

I wanted to go with a Super Quadro (https://www.ompamerica.com/en_us/car-kart-parts/steering-wheels/super-quadro.html) But it is only 320 mm in diameter. I was talked out of it due to the small size (no power steering assist) and the fact that the NSX has a very slow steering rack. Would work perfectly on an S2000 or #RYU 's car but not an NA1. Also because of the slow rack, you really want a round wheel. After two track days, I found myself shuffling the steering wheel on several corners and that Super Quadro would have given me even more issues in those corners. I'm learning to love it. The QD addition makes the flat bottom, not necessary and I love the access in and out with the wheel removed. Here are some pics;OMP Offset with QD.jpgThe New Office.jpg
 
Brief update. Took the car to my local tuner for some work and to get my tune updated. I installed a couple of AEM sensors for fuel and oil pressure and had them connected to my AEM Series 2 ECU. This was for safety as well as to aid in the tune. But I got a phone call rather quickly. After one pull, there was no boost. Zero. I kind of felt it coming. Didn't make me feel any better, but it wasn't a total surprise.

The last track weekend, I had one of the slowest cars in my group. I knew I was down on horsepower. I can only surmise that the turbos over spooled last year at Chuckwalla when I blew a cold side charge pipe at full throttle down the back straight. I think that with no resistance on the compressor side, they over spooled and they have been dying slowly over the past year. So off they came and are on their way to Aerocharger for assessment. This will give me some time to work on some other projects while the car is up on stands. This build continues.....
 
Oh wow, I hadn't dropped by in a while. Loving the consistent progress JC, although we miss seeing it in So Cal! FWIW, the oem steering wheel is 370mm, oem type-s is 360mm and oem type-r is 350mm. Essentially you downsized to type-r spec, which I personally love the most! That probably explains why your new OMP felt like a toothpick in comparison to OEM, not because your hands got bigger ;).

Sorry to hear about the recent issue. Do I smell an SOS TT in your near future :cool:
 
The build continues

The toothpick reference on the new steering wheel is because of the diameter or the wheel itself and not the overall dimension. My original wheel had been reconditioned with two additional wraps before it was covered in new leather. It is a much fatter grip and really feels nice. The difference is striking. But I'm getting used to it.

Sorry to hear about the recent issue. Do I smell an SOS TT in your near future :cool:

Not quite, but close. I sent my existing turbos to Aerocharger to have them looked at and sorted out. Along the way I contacted a former Primer who had done a lot of research and a build with the newer, larger frame turbos from Aerocharger. One thing led to another and I ended up buying his system! So currently my car is with out anything under the trunk (looks kind of naked) waiting on the hot and cold side plumbing. Those boxes should arrive mid-week. We both decided to return the 66 Series turbos for inspection so I should get them back in a couple of weeks from Aerocharger.

And what of my old system? I have it boxed up pending a sale to an NSX owner in Texas. That buyer will also receive my fully reconditioned turbos straight from Aerocharger. That sale should finalize tomorrow. He is also excited.

If you are wondering what I'm getting, here is a link to the thread of the original builder of my new system:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...hargers-TT-more-testing?highlight=aerocharger

The difference between what he did and what I will do is;

  1. He had to run FIC due to emission. I don't have that restriction so will be full stand alone, AEM Series 2. This should provide me with more power and safer tuning with parameters to pull timing in case something is not quite right as to AF, fuel or oil pressure and coolant temp..
  2. I will also tune to E85 for even more power and safety.

I plan on having the car tuned to about the same power levels inclusive of de-tuning for track days. Maybe a touch more. But the beauty is if anything should ever happen to my motor, if I should have to build the bottom end, the system can handle up to 600 with only a couple more pounds of boost. I now have the ceiling I didn't before. Been prepping for the new system over the past week and the car is ready. So am I.
 
Dibs if you ever sell the 66 series turbos haha. Man last I talked to Dozier I couldn’t get anything done, and I tried for months to get him to build me another kit! He was at the mercy of some fabricator who had injured himself and couldn’t work too so eventually I gave up after months of persostence. Congrats on the upgrade, I think it’s still the ultimate TT setup for the car and I thought about upgrading my turbos to the 66 series when I had them at aerocharger to rebuild but all the flanges were different and the size of the charge piping was optimized for the smaller ones already too. Only way it could get better (at significantly more cost) would be to get the turbos right off the headers for even more response but then again response is already excellent.


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Dibs if you ever sell the 66 series turbos haha. Man last I talked to Dozier I couldn’t get anything done, and I tried for months to get him to build me another kit! Congrats on the upgrade, I think it’s still the ultimate TT setup for the car. only way it could get better (at significantly more cost) would be to get the turbos right off the headers for even more response but then again response is already excellent.


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Thanks, I am looking forward to it. As to moving these turbos closer to heat, it's not a good idea. They don't like a lot of heat, like other turbos do. And with ceramic coated and lava rock wrapped mid-pipes, they shouldn't lose a lot of heat. It really is a slick system.
 
JC, this is Rahim. Didn't know you have a build thread on here.

Aerocharger finally shipped out the turbos yesterday and I should have them by next week.
I will try and get the timing belt and few things done before I install your old kit.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new set up.
 
JC, this is Rahim. Didn't know you have a build thread on here.

Aerocharger finally shipped out the turbos yesterday and I should have them by next week.
I will try and get the timing belt and few things done before I install your old kit.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new set up.

My system is fully installed. Now just have to sit tight and wait for the tuning session on Friday. Talked with Dave Dozier yesterday for a while. We discussed the mods I made to the hot side, tuning tips and limitations, mostly of the motor at this point. So the tune will be conservative. But at least I know I have head room for more should I decide to fully build the bottom end. And we will also tune it with E98. I have the SOS Flex Fuel sensor so I can run any grade of ethanol, so for track days the motor should be safer. Looking forward to getting back on the road.
 
So, the tune is in. Not quite where I had hoped to end up but there were extenuating circumstances.

The good news - tune came out to 415 rwhp and 293 ftlb of torque on pump 91 gas. Very linear and the torque peaks before VTEC so all is good there. The car runs very nice with no hiccups and pulls very strongly. It is a very conservative tune.

The bad news - it's a conservative tune for a number of reasons;

1) The wideband O2's could not be placed in an optimal position. That would have been after the turbos but before the cats. I'll be pulling the exhaust and having new bungs welded in early next week and then move the widebands. Ended up tuning with sensors in the tail pipes but that is not optimum because they are measuring O2 after the cats. So a little fine tuning will still need to be done.
2) We were chasing a variance between front and rear banks of up to 14%. Sometimes it was 7% and would vary up to 14% at different rpms. Could not get it steady and the variance was just too great and inconsistent. Didn't bother with E98 as it would have been a waste of time. So we tuned conservative and this was at less than 8 lbs of boost. What could cause this?

Well it could be a number of things so i will be checking, in order;
* Plugs - to see if one is discolored versus the rest to show a poor cylinder
* Compression - to see if that discolored plug leads us to poor compression in that cylinder or something else
* Valves - will adjust valves to see if that did affect compression
* Injectors - will send them out to be flow tested and cleaned
* Inspect timing belt - to see if a cam skipped a tooth on the timing belt

Once we find the culprit, will go back to UMS, amend the base tune, and then go for E98. Looks like it will be a couple more weeks of fiddling around. Getting closer.
 
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I apologize if I missed it but what’s the piece under your radio?

No apologies required. That is a magnet that I have mounted so that my phone stays secure. I run the phone for music, directions, Waze, Race Chrono for track days, and hands free text and messages. It holds the phone very securely.
 
I think we may have found the missing 50 ponies. Pulled the exhaust and it will be going in tomorrow for new wideband bungs after the turbos. Simple enough. Injectors are out and will get a one day turn around for testing and cleaning. Check.

Pulled the plugs and they all look identical so i proceeded with a compression test;

Cylinder 1 - 185
Cylinder 2 - 200
Cylinder 3 - 195 (at this point I'm feeling good because Tony thought the low compression cylinder was in the rear bank)
Cylinder 4 - 180 (ok, that is down a bit but I can live with it)
Cylinder 5 - 175 (aahhhh, not great but livable)
Cylinder 6 - 150 (and that right there ended my party)

I'll put it all back together by week's end and drive her as is. I know I'll have to drop the motor and service the bottom end. Sucks because I did major service work just a couple of years ago. But now it looks like everything will be coming out of the motor.

Dilemma time;
1) Do I pull the motor and return it back to OEM fresh, just cleaning up the cylinder walls and replacing bearings and rings?
2) Or do I send the block out, upgrade pistons, rods and all bearings and go for even more power?

I know most of you will chime in "go for Door #2 "! But it's because it's not your money. Let's have some semblance of responsibility. The market has not been kind to me of late.
 
that bites......depends on your cash situation time ect....most important is why do you need more than 300 hp? If you have good reasons to want to be in the 400+ hp crowd then do it.I replaced my second engine build with a oem 3.2 long block and have been happy.
 
that bites......depends on your cash situation time ect....most important is why do you need more than 300 hp? If you have good reasons to want to be in the 400+ hp crowd then do it.I replaced my second engine build with a oem 3.2 long block and have been happy.

Thanks for your post. It's kind of foreboding that as I was at the tuners, we were talking about where I currently was sitting power wise, and possibly where I might end up. I did make mention that if something were to happen to my motor, I would have the head room with the FI to build it for even more power. Call me Nostradamus.

I sure didn't plan for that to happen the same day. No, I did not.

So I have been pricing a build and looking at other options too. It's good that I have a strong heart, and unlimited funds. Well, one of those statements are true.
 
I'm not a wrench nor am I super enlightened with turbos ...but seems that folks with the SOS twins have had pretty good reliability on the street....I have not read much feedback how that stands up to hpde...
 
I'm not a wrench nor am I super enlightened with turbos ...but seems that folks with the SOS twins have had pretty good reliability on the street....I have not read much feedback how that stands up to hpde...

The SOS twins are an awesome option and very well designed. The instruction manual is what we all dream of. Just did an install of this system on a customers car. Fully built motor and he is shooting for 700 rwhp as he wants to compete in 1/2 milers. Chris is a friend, and their shop is just down the street so support is immediate. As I proceed forward, I see SOS being included in my 2020 tax return as a dependent.

But I like my turbo setup and it did not cause my internal engine woes. The Aerocharger system has been pretty well documented with many track days to be competent and reliable. Why I lost compression on #6 , we'll only find out when we pull it apart. Currently, we can only speculate.
 
Lol I'm like playing a kazoo giving the cellist music advice......:redface:
 
Because the two banks were showing different A/F I'd guess that is what caused the difference in cylinder break in. Delete the cats, setup the O2 sensors, and just hone/ring the engine. See how it does with a new break in. Make sure your fuel rails are both seeing the same pressure.
 
Because the two banks were showing different A/F I'd guess that is what caused the difference in cylinder break in. Delete the cats, setup the O2 sensors, and just hone/ring the engine. See how it does with a new break in. Make sure your fuel rails are both seeing the same pressure.

Yes they are seeing different A/F. Bungs are being installed now and injectors will be in my hands tomorrow morning. That will help but not fix the problem. Again, won't know for sure until I tear it down. Just getting my ducks lined up so that I will know my options with how to proceed.
 
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