Some console trim panel pictures - paint and refinishing

[Malibu Rapper]

I decided to redo the paint job on my customized trim panel that was modified for my double DIN stereo install. I used the Honda Graphite Grey 88-00928 that D'Ecosse had mentioned in a previous post. The color I had before was the Rustoleum metallic black which didn't look bad, I just felt the metallic flakes were too big.

I started off trying to sand off the old paint but quickly got tired of that so I ran to Osh and picked up a spray can of Jasco Graffiti remover. I actually had to buy two cans to complete what you will see. When I shot it on there, I started to see the finish bubbling and peeling away. Turns out that the factory finish on the console trim as many already know is metallic underneath and covered with a coating that makes it scratch and stain resistant. The pictures here do not do it justice, it's really a beautiful looking metallic color once you get all the coating off.

This is the stuff all peeled off, the pictures don't do the factory finish justice at all, it's one of the coolest finishes you will ever see. Ignore the bondo.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Phase 2

Ok, so all the finish is stripped off. Time to paint the trim panel.

Because of the extensive work performed to fill in the gaps for my double DIN deck, I had to do a lot of sanding and finish work to fill in the imperfections. A painter friend suggeseted using a guide coat to find the imperfections and that helped a lot. A guide coat is just a coat of contrasting paint over areas where I would have imperfections. You sand off that layer of paint to the primer and the areas of imperfection show up. I used Bondo glazing putty to fill in the pinholes and some sanding marks.

Here's the primed trim panel:

Guide coating:

And now here are several shots comparing the factory finish on the door trim panels to the console trim that I painted. I am going to spray a layer of matte finish UV resistant clear coat on this later but it's already pretty similar in color.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Beautiful job, Malibu!
I agree on the mettallic black which is why I finally looked for something different - it looked nice during the day, but at night, when th elight picked up the flakes more, the metal definitely looked a little overwhelming. New colour is just right IMO.

 

[SoCalDude]

Nice work! Been thinking about doing this myself. Can you post a picture of the backside where the double DIN opening is? Thanks.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Backside

Try going to this link HERE

It has some shots of my original modification, it's very similar to how it is now.

The trick with doing the double din kit is give the double din opening walls on the left, bottom, and right sides. I used strips of ABS that were hot melt glued into place. It is critical to make sure you really stuff that glue into all the cracks so that the ABS doesn't bend causing a crack in your finish. I had to redo the glue this time around so that it wouldn't crack. I'd say the thinner the ABS the better because I actually had to sand mine down a bit at the bottom so that the lid would open and on the sides because the stereo kept scraping into the walls when it'd open. You could probably use strips of sheet metal.

The backside isn't pretty but no one ever sees it.

I wanted this post to contribute a few things. First, you could strip off the plastic finish on the trim pieces with Jasco graffiti remover. Next, that finish underneath is gorgeous. Finally, that Honda graphite finish is pretty darn close to the factory finish and with the console trim in the middle, you'd really have to scrutinize to see that it's a different color than the finish on the door trim pieces.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Duplicolor Honda Graphite Grey 88-00928

Just for reference, here's a pic of the graphite gray canister. It's made by Dupli-Color and you can buy it at Kragen or most auto parts stores.

 

[THonda]

totally off topic but do u have a set of Gewalt split 5 spoke wheels?

 

[D'Ecosse]

totally off topic ....

Exactly!
- that's what pm's are for

 

[SoCalDude]

I decided to redo the paint job on my customized trim panel that was modified for my double DIN stereo install.

Turns out that the factory finish on the console trim as many already know is metallic underneath and covered with a coating that makes it scratch and stain resistant.

Was just looking at this again. Did you actually convert a factory console to fit the double DIN unit? What did you use to cut the opening?

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Yes I did convert a factory console trim. I used a Dremel with a cutting disc to cut everything. I cut most of it short of where I wanted it, then I sanded it out carefully with the Dremel again.

I hot glued strips of ABS to the sides and bottom and filled in the big gaps with Bondo.

I'd do this all over again if this was a double or single din installation.

 

[SoCalDude]

Yes I did convert a factory console trim. I used a Dremel with a cutting disc to cut everything.

Did you buy new head unit before you cut the console or did you measure the apprx. size for a double DIN and cut it first?

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Did you buy new head unit before you cut the console or did you measure the apprx. size for a double DIN and cut it first?

I bought the head unit first, then I started cutting out for it. It's important to have the unit there first so you can see what you're dealing with and make adjustments. If you do it all ahead of time, you're setting yourself up for redoing the whole thing again.

 

[SoCalDude]

I bought the head unit first, then I started cutting out for it. It's important to have the unit there first so you can see what you're dealing with and make adjustments. If you do it all ahead of time, you're setting yourself up for redoing the whole thing again.

I'm just about ready to start the install. In your Kenwood head unit mounted or screwed on to something or does it just rest there?

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Hey Gene,

I started out epoxying 4 brackets on the head unit. I originally was going to have the brackets spot welded but I'm glad I didn't because I've had to move them around.

I bought some kinda "liquid titanium" epoxy from Osh, then I bought some small right angle brackets in the cabinetry section. I grinded the backsides of the brackets to give them a rough finish for the epoxy to adhere to better and did the same with the top and bottom of the stereo where they would contact. I drilled a hole in each bracket to take the factory stereo screws.

I then test fitted and held the stereo into place where I wanted it (you'll want to test fit it with the console trim) with rags and stuffing to hold it steady while I dropped the brackets into place with epoxy and screwed them into the original stereo mounting holes. I left it to dry in place. Nice thing about the epoxy is that it's semi-permanent and allows you to break the brackets off if you twist them with a set of pliers, otherwise it's very strong.

Ultimately, I found that the 4 brackets complicated things too much getting the right angle and fit with the dash. So I removed the two top brackets and I believe I just kept the bottom brackets. I just remember the stereo needed to be as high as you can get it and the more angle you have, the flusher it will look but you can only lean it so far.

You want the screw holes in the brackets to be able to let you adjust the head unit slightly. Also another tip is that the DDX7015 didn't have problems opening and clearing the top of the hole in the console trim because of the way it opens. I had more issues at the bottom where the face would extend out. I'm going to redo my walls with a single strip of sheet metal bent like a rectangular U shape. Use lots of glue to hold the wall in place, make sure you stuff it in all the crevices so that you don't have any areas where the walls can flex, otherwise you may end up with cracks later. Hope this helps...

 

[D'Ecosse]

I used a similar mounting point to Maibu - used a piece of angle bracket from Home Depot. It's pretty thick so won't allow any flex - it's also 2" wide so gives good support. In my case obvioulsy I have the single DIN but you can see I took up the extra space with a piece of MDF and the video controller sits above the head unit.

 

[SoCalDude]

Thanks Malibu Rapper and D'Ecosse!

I guess brackets and epoxy it will be!

 

[SoCalDude]

I hot glued strips of ABS to the sides and bottom and filled in the big gaps with Bondo.

Okay, it's been 3 months but I finally picked up the 7015 last night. Couple of questions for you.

Does the trim piece that comes with the 7015 fit on top of the console; so you cut the opening to fit the size on the unit, not the trim piece?

What is the ABS pieces on the side used for and where do you get it?

Thanks!

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Okay, it's been 3 months but I finally picked up the 7015 last night. Couple of questions for you.

Does the trim piece that comes with the 7015 fit on top of the console; so you cut the opening to fit the size on the unit, not the trim piece?

What is the ABS pieces on the side used for and where do you get it?

Thanks!

Hey Gene, man, I was wondering how long it would take you! Ok, first, the trim piece is not used. Doesn't fit.

The ABS pieces were filler material for the sides. What will happen is that the deck will not sit flush with the face, instead you recess it just a tiny bit. What happens is at the lower part of the deck on the sides there will be large gaps between the console trim and the stereo. There will also be a large gap at the bottom part of the stereo, too. They need to be filled in to look nice. The idea is to build walls at the sides at at the bottom so you don't have empty space. The top of the deck sits slightly recessed and nearly flush with the console trim.

The ABS didn't take too well to the heat when my car was out in the sun at the dealership for a day. I purchased a good sized sheet of aluminum from the hardware store which I will replace the ABS with when I get back from my vacation. What I plan to do is cut a strip about 1/2"x16" and bend in a U shape to fit the bottom of the sides and bottom of the stereo. Hotmelt glue it into place and refinish. I might opt for having it painted professionally this time with real automotive paint. The spray can stuff didn't hold up well in the heat. I never intended for my car to sit out in the sun for that amount of time under those conditions so it might suit you well to paint it on your own if your car won't see such horrid conditions.

You can buy the aluminum sheet in small sizes from the smaller hardware stores like Aces or Osh (not Lowes or Home Depot). I think I got a 12x24 sheet for about $8.

Good luck!

 

[SoCalDude]

Hey Gene, man, I was wondering how long it would take you!

Bradley,

The console is just about done. Looking pretty good thanks to your directions. Question on the wiring. Is there something I need to do to be able to be able to have the video on when I'm driving and not just neutral? I'm also thinking about putting in a rear camera as well. Was considering mounting a camera somewhere around the license plate area. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Hey Gene, yes, you need to ground the Parking Brake cable to have the video on while you are driving. It is illegal to do this but many ppl do this with their units. If you wired it to the parking brake wire, go ahead and unwire it to the parking brake cable and ground it either on your ground cable or on that ground bolt that is underneath the stereo.

As for a rear camera, I think it might be easier and cheaper to go the keyhole route as D'Ecosse has done. He has a post on this somewhere. You can easily run wire to the trunk and it's a nice fit.

 

[SoCalDude]

You need to ground the Parking Brake cable to have the video on while you are driving. It is illegal to do this but many ppl do this with their units. If you wired it to the parking brake wire, go ahead and unwire it to the parking brake cable and ground it either on your ground cable or on that ground bolt that is underneath the stereo.

May do this tonight. I've attached the Metra harness to the wiring on the Kenwood. Everything is ready to go.

I'm not sure what to do to ground the Parking brake cable? I do see two wires attached to the top and bottom of the parking brake. Both of these wires have already been discounnected on my car. They look to have been cut. Just the tips are still remaining. Help? Thanks.

Also, should the face sit a bit recessed just for looks or is it a functionality issue?

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Ground the parking brake wire that is coming from the Kenwood, not the car's parking brake wire, sorry.

The face is recessed for looks and to prevent glare. In addition, mounting it recessed will make it easier to install, if you try to flush mount it, you will understand what I mean. I think it's a win situation all around to recess it.

 

[SoCalDude]

Ground the parking brake wire that is coming from the Kenwood, not the car's parking brake wire, sorry.

Well I connected the harness tonight and nothing, no power. I knew I hate wiring.

Does the Metra harness have all 16 wires because mine only has 12 with 4 empty slots.

The only wiring I used on th 8 pin was the parking brake wire.

Does all this sound right? What else should I look at?

Thanks for your help Bradley.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

Hey Gene,

There was one thing tricky about the Kenwood that might not be clear to every installer. There are 2 power wires and 2 ground wires. On the back of your unit, there are 2 wiring harnesses. The little wiring harness has the long Pink wire for parking brake (which you should connect to your ground). That same harness also has a power and a ground wire which you should wire to the Metra harness (your harness is fine BTW).

Ok, now here's the part that is a little tricky. There is the larger Kenwood harness that also sports a 12v constant and a ground wire. What you want to do is from both Kenwood harnesses, take the two yellow wires and wire them to the yellow on the Metra harness. Then take the pink wire+the black wire from the little harness+the black wire from the larger kenwood harness and wire them into the black wire on the metra harness (OR you can wire them to the ground in the dash). So on the Metra harness, for the yellow and the black wires, you will have 2 yellows going to the 1 yellow Metra wire, and 2 black wires going to the 1 Metra black wire.

That's all the wires you need for the unit to power up. Now if you turn your ignition on and the stereo doesn't power up when you press the Source button, then you have either a problem with your power or your ground. The easiest thing to check is to see if you blew a fuse. There are 2 fuses, one on that yellow wire from the Kenwood harness and then there's the car's radio fuse which I believe is at the driver kick panel and labeled appropriately.

My guess is that you didn't wire up both Kenwood harnesses correctly. If you still have problems, you can gimme a call and I swing by that way on Fridays. I can bring the soldering iron and shrink tubing to make your install look pro.

HTH

 

[SoCalDude]

My guess is that you didn't wire up both Kenwood harnesses correctly. If you still have problems, you can gimme a call and I swing by that way on Fridays. I can bring the soldering iron and shrink tubing to make your install look pro.

Thanks. You are right, I only used the larger harness. I thought you wouldn't need to use the smaller one if you used the larger one. I'll give it another try tonight!