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Subwoofer fix

Joined
29 January 2004
Messages
196
Location
Las Vegas
Since I haven't picked up my NSX but get it this Thursday, no sleep until then or not after for a while either can't you just remove the original sub and cut a top panel or plate and mount the sub to that without building a box and just fill the area below with sound dampning material or am I totally off base?
 
No I realize that you need an amp I was just asking if you could cut a face plate the same as the area being removed and screw it down to enclose the area
 
You can't run a sub in free air - you need an enclosed box to make it work properly. A completely sealed (i.e. no air can leak out or in at all) box gives the most efficient (i.e. smallest) volume, with a ported box requiring bigger physical dimensions. Even a ported box requires very particular dimensions of the port tuned to the particular speaker - this is not just a "leaky" box, or a box with a hole cut in it!
Sealed is the only way to go in an NSX & even then with limitations - typically there is only enough space (with minimum compromise to passenger legroom interference) for a box of < 0.5 cu ft, which limits it to 8" subs primarily (not a blanket statement - there are some 10" subs available that will operate in this volume or less, but they're not cheap!).
1/2 Cube sounds like a lot but remember a perfectly rectangular box of 6 x 12 x 12 = 0.5 cu ft, but a box to fit within that space cannot possible be rectangular so you see how difficult it is to acheive that volume. I've seen some claims for substantial volumes in the NSX footwell space that are simply not the case. I'm in the process of creating my own box currently with a goal of 0.46 cu ft for my Phase Linear Alliante which requires only 0.34 cu ft net, but that must be added to ~0.12 cu ft required for the speaker displacement volume itself, grossing a total box requirement of 0.46 cubes. Still not a small enclosure requiremnt yet that fits in one of the most compact applications there is for a quality 10" unit.
Many are operating 10" subs in boxes that are simply inadequate & would have much better performance from an 8" - but bigger must be better right? ;)

Here's a link I found with a quick search that may help you understand some of the subtleties of sub enclosure design.
 
I realize that it must be an enclosure I was just thinkink insted of making a complete box utlize the space already there and fashion the front plate to seal off the compartment. BY THE WAY HOW ARE YOU DOING WITH YOUR ENCLOSURE definitely would like some help as I paln on tackling this next weekend and I plan on using a Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 2 P28S4 how are you doing your doors?
 
special k said:
I realize that it must be an enclosure I was just thinkink insted of making a complete box utlize the space already there and fashion the front plate to seal off the compartment.
You'll see when you get in there this is not really practical - it's not as if a box-shape exists that just needs a front cover to complete it. For an 8" sub, consider Andy Buzz NSX custom made box - http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23657
how are you doing your doors?

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26805
 
i was originally thinking of doing the same, but as was pointed out, once you get the existing sub "box" out, you'll realize it's not possible. i tried anyway with a very shallow 10" sub, but that was way too big, you might be able to do it with a very shallow 8. the 10 diameter was just much larger than the stock "box". i screwed down a couple of pieces of wood to try to get more depth and width, but even then, no good, and even if it was, no way this would fit back in the stock spot. until i buy a premade subbox, i made my own wooden one, and stuck it behind the drivers seat.
 
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