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Tesla Powered 1994 NSX

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Bound to happen...but at this stage more of hobbyist clickbait..
 
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I've always thought that if petrol is banned in the future, I could build a battery pack in the shape of the gas tank and do this mod. I'm curious how he got his brakes to work without vacuum.
 
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I'm not too familiar with what constitutes swapping, but how far do you have to go to be considered swapped? It seems like they made this video about 2 months before they should have - a bit of a waste of time for viewers. Finish off the car, then do a video on it. Things to have:
1. Acceleration vs. an original
2. Range data. My PacHy PHEV battery that he seems to have used is only 16.6 kWh, which gives me 30 miles. Can't see the NSX going more than 60 miles.
3. Weight data. That PacHy battery weighs about 600 lb? Tesla motor weight?
4. How well the climate control and AC work.
5. Driving impressions/balance compared to the original.
6. Any things not working? (Other than the tach & fuel gauge?)

As an engineer, I can say that cutting that rear member is NOT properly reinforced. (That's a $2k cut btw.) Also seems to be missing ROD COMP. A, Rr. BEAM, (50205SL0000) Is that part needed or should I take it off as well to save weight?

I appreciate the double meaning of the toy F-R switch. Now that the NA NSX's are no longer current track technology, we're all just posers in toy cars - I think the new Civic R would destroy a 1st gen NSX around the ring.
 
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I'm not too familiar with what constitutes swapping, but how far do you have to go to be considered swapped? It seems like they made this video about 2 months before they should have - a bit of a waste of time for viewers. Finish off the car, then do a video on it. Things to have:
Acceleration vs. an original
Range data. My PacHy PHEV battery that he seems to have used is only 16.7 kWh. Can't see it going more than 60 miles.
Weight data. That PacHy battery weighs about 600 lb?
How well the climate control and AC work
Driving impressions/balance compared to the original.

I think the trunk is a silly place to mount the battery. If I were doing it, I would use the gas tank space for one pack and then put another on top of the motors, using the OEM side engine mounts and integrating it into the rear structure of the car for rigidity. This would keep the weight roughly in the same place as the OEM transaxle assembly. IIRC, the entire ICE transaxle assembly weighs about 700-800 lbs. The way he did it is pretty ghetto, with "notching" the rear beam and such. I would spend some $$$ to integrate the motor housing into the factory rear subframe, which means CNC and welding. Considering the weight of the components, I'd want better structure in there. I'd budget about $50k for the job.

Still, it's cool to see one driving as an EV.
 
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If you built a rack to hold them any reason you couldn’t mount them over the top? I would want the weight in the stock location, Or the front. I’m assuming the notch was to get it drivable. Judging by the ground setup I’m assuming it’s still a work in progress.

How much HP they getting out of these things. I bet it’s quick.

It’s $50k just for the hardware tho. Let alone the custom work.
 
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Won't get much more than 75 kW (100 HP) out of a PacHy battery so probably not that quick. Good thing since he cut a structural component.
 
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