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Tire Selection

Joined
20 January 2007
Messages
42
Location
Vancouver, Washington
Just picked up a set of 16/17 OEM rims for my '91 and now I need to decide upon tires.

Since there are very few choices available in the OE specified 215/ZR4516 size for the fronts, I am probably going to go with 205/45ZR16 for the front and 245/ZR4017 for the rears.

I have seen several threads mentioning the Continental Extreme Contact DW which I can find for $530 plus shipping through Tire Rack.

I was wondering about the Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport, as Costco has this brand on special this month.

The cost difference between the two is pretty marginal, so it's just a question of value, quality, etc...

I do not "track" my NSX, so it's not going to come down to which is the best track tire.

I welcome and appreciate any suggestions.
 
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I went with the RE-760's. Grip is about as good as the old RE-010's that were on there(probably dried out). Much quieter than the RE-010's and the RE-760 205's were actually slightly wider than the 215 RE-010's. Go figure.

I have 6K miles on the rears already and they still have plenty of tread left(even on the inside where they wear the most). So far I am very pleased with them.
 
if you dont mind forking up the money, RE-11 is da best i have ever rode on for the 16/17 combo. Another good choice is the Toyo R1R if its still available =D
 
I just installed Falken F452 tires on my stock 16/17 rims. I am running 225/45 16s on the front and 255/40 17s on the rears. I haven't had them on for more than a month but I notice they are way more quiet than my Yokohama's (same sizes) I previously had. So far, I am happy with them.
 
stick w/...

The Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sport is an "ultra high performance summer tire" which in-essence means touring tire for the NSX. Likewise, for the Falken FK452.

Next category is the "max performance summer tire" which is analogous to the OEM standard tires over the years. These non-OEM offerings offer (generally) the same grip as the stock tires, but at a better price-point & greater tread-life relative to the originals.

And then above that is the "extreme performance summer tire" which offers the most street-legal grip but (generally) at the expense of tread-life which tends to be similar to the OEM standard tires.

There are different priorities for different individuals, but personally speaking- if you're driving an NSX, why compromise on the performance/handling w/ sporty all-season/touring tires. The Continental ExtremeContact DW is a solid pick (what I would choose in this thread w/o a doubt)... not to mention at a solid price-point!
 
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With all due respect to prior comments, let's use some common sense :wink:

For mostly street driving and even occasional spirited street driving, even one or two track events a year, NONE of you will be using the maximum envelope of extreme perform ace tires irrespective of how great and skilled driver you think or you actually are. Street driving doesn't lend to such limits.

But just like many of us, sometimes we have to build that extra margin of safety with added goodies just to compensate our lack of "occasional" mental failure if not skills ...... :biggrin:
 
Hopefully not adding to confusion, but has anyone purchased within the last 90 days, tires, and which did you choose. I am just in the cruising mode as mine are 4yrs (10,000 rear)-6(30,000front) years old and am thinking about replacing all 4 with Bridgestone Potenzas RE 10's vs the Michelin. Have a quote for $1,600. S/b about $900-$1000? Is this competitive or is it list? Am I overboard on preventative maintenance? Comments from the experts, which you guys all are.
Warm regards,
Don
 
But just like many of us, sometimes we have to build that extra margin of safety with added goodies just to compensate our lack of "occasional" mental failure if not skills ...... :biggrin:

"I was doing great until Turn 6, where I ran out of talent."
 
am thinking about replacing all 4 with Bridgestone Potenzas RE 10's vs the Michelin. Have a quote for $1,600. S/b about $900-$1000? Is this competitive or is it list? Am I overboard on preventative maintenance?
Which Michelin tire are you referring to? :confused:

The stock tire - the Bridgestone Potenza RE010 you mention - is still available in your 16"/17" sizes, and it will give you superb handling "feel". Tire Rack sells them for $249F/$267R, plus shipping ($60-80) plus mounting/balancing ($60-120), and your total should be around $1200. You can always order from the Tire Rack, and use any local tire shop or mechanic for mounting/balancing; if you like, you can use one of their thousands of local installers, and even ship the tires directly to them if you like.

The Continental ExtremeContact DW in 205/45-16 and 245/40-17 is an excellent choice too, offering excellent dry and wet traction and treadlife. It's also remarkably inexpensive - $126F/$136R, for a total around $700. It's a "maximum performance" tire, with better performance and grip than the "ultra high performance" tires mentioned above (e.g. RE760). Buy the ExtremeContact DW now, as they may be discontinuing the front size in the near future (but a set of fronts should last through at least two sets of rears).

If you want the ultimate in dry traction for the street, you can get the "extreme performance" Bridgestone RE-11 (205/45-16 and 245/40-17), Toyo R1R (205/45-16 and 245/40-17), or Kumho XS (215/45-16 and 245/40-17). But compared with the Continental DW, they won't last as long, they are significantly more money, and the XS is notably inferior in rain. For most street driving, I'd recommend the Continental ExtremeContact DW, but those who do tend to push the envelope may prefer one of the extreme tires.

Am I overboard on preventative maintenance?
If you are replacing your current tires solely due to age, I wouldn't do so at this time. The Tire Rack has extensive writeups on this, which basically say that tires should generally last 6-10 years. Unless they show significant cracking, I wouldn't replace tires that are 4-6 years old; I'd wait at least a couple of years.

The other replacement criterion is tread depth. New performance tires generally come with about 10/32" of tread depth. By law in most states, you must replace them when they are down to 2/32", when the molded treadwear indicator bars are flat across the tread. To maintain good wet traction, you might consider replacing them when they get to 4/32". (Tests by the Tire Rack show that braking distances on wet pavement are 50 percent higher at 4/32", and double at 2/32", compared with new tires at full tread depth.)

And of course you can replace them if they aren't performing well and you want a make/model that will do better.
 
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Ken,
Thanks so much for the info. When a guy that has so much experience both on the street and on the track responds, and then replies that I might be overdoing it, preventative maintenance wise, I have to listen.

Really appreciate your taking the time to explain and send along the stuff from Tire Rack as you probably have to countless other new guys just getting started. Tis a joy to read your response and I am deeply grateful especially as I am working in the office today, in the rain, nursing a replaced shoulder and wishing the I could take the girl out of the garage.

Just took it out of storage due to the surgery, and have to use 2 hands to put it into reverse so I don't damage the new shoulder. I guess I'll have to keep it below 50 for a while as using 2 hands to shift into 5th, might be an issue.
Truly appreciate your response. I would have PM'd you, but wanted to make the thanks, public.
Warmest regards,
Don
 
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