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Turn off the ABS; Forever. Issues?

Joined
19 December 2004
Messages
916
Location
Glastonbury, CT
:mad: Executive Summary: I want to turn my ABS off forever. Pull the fuse and jump the wire for the light. Is there any reason that would be a bad idea (other than not having ABS)?

Detail:
So I have been reading about the ABS system for about 2 hours. Most specifically this post:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46983&highlight=ABS

Now that I've gotten through that I saw at the end that someone pulled the fuse on there NSX since it had 150k miles and they weren't especially concerned with ABS. That sounded good to me. I went through the "what the hell is that noise" phase when I bought the car and have had a solenoid stuck before. Larry B. confirmed all the issues when my car was there for service. I can't stand the sound of that pump and mine goes off about once a month. Yesterday however as I pulled into a golf course I felt the brakes felt very slightly different. When I got out of the car I saw that I was leaking a good deal of brake fluid. I never heard the pump so I though I actually broke a brake line. I then played my round (which was worse than usual) thinking I would probably have no brakes upon returning. When I got in I had good brakes. I drove slow, the pump when on and cycled till it shut itself off and the light went on. Just prior to it shutting off I tried to exercise it. I can stand the system. I would remove it if I had the know how. It sounds like I can pull a fuse and jump a wire. Anyone do this? Are there consequences? I've got to get this behind me so I can concentrate on my oil leak and door closing issues.

As always, any thoughts would be appreciated. If I missed the thread on this just point me to it.
 
I used to pull the fuse for track events,but in the end I felt no significant benefit so I have had my 96 system engaged.If I were you I would spend some doe and get the 00 upgrade kit from sos and have a more responsive modern system imo.
 
I used to pull the fuse for track events,but in the end I felt no significant benefit so I have had my 96 system engaged.If I were you I would spend some doe and get the 00 upgrade kit from sos and have a more responsive modern system imo.

+1 I plan on doing the ABS upgrade and save a little weight in the process.
 
I had not seen that upgrade before. Looks like a descent plan. I'm not looking to put $1500 in at the moment though. So my question remains, if I shut the sytem down, can I run into additional items. If not, I can shut it down, save my pennies and then ultimately in a year or so update the system. What do you think? Anyone had experience with this?
 
Actually I was wandering the same thing?
 
unplug the abs computer.
 
unplug the abs computer.

You'd better let the plugs in the ABS computer and only pull the fuse. I did it only once and was only rolling 50 meters with a car that didn't pull. Background: the ABS computer must share the wheel sensors with the TCS.
 
To answer your questions:
Can I just turn the ABS system off? YES
Will it hurt anything? NO
What is the best way to do this? (You didn't ask this, but that would be your next question anyway)

First off the problem is probably curable. I have helped many people with this same problem around the country. I've been quite successfull. Read some of my other posts on this subject.

The easiest way to disable the ABS is to unplug the wire from the ABS pressure switch that is attached to the ABS accumulator and install a jumper connector.

The pressure switch is attached to the accumulator mounting bracket. The accumulator is the large round sphere that is about the size of a large grapefruit or a double D. It is located to the rear of the ABS module and down low. It can be seen from above, but easier from underneath the car. There is a two wire connector that is ORANGE in color that you disconnect. I think that I may have an extra one of these jumper connectors so PM me your address and I will send you one. When you get the connector just plug it into the harness, from the chassis of the car, and your ABS pump cycling problems will disappear, SO WILL ANY ABS FUNCTION!!!! Then just zip tie the wire from the pressure switch back to itself (so it doesn't dangle)[You sure don't want anything dangling next to a Double D]. If I was home I could send you some pictures. I will be home on monday 22 Sep.

It is almost impossible to disconnect the orange connector from above the car. It is best done from underneath the car. In the mean time you can pull the ABS pump relay to disable the pump, but the ABS caution light will remain illuminated. You can also pull the two ABS fuses, but the ABS light will illuminate if I remember right. If you use the jumper that I am going to send you the ABS caution light will not illuminate. Your choice, let me know.

Now to address the different feel of your brakes. This has NOTHING to do with the ABS. It may be the start of a failing brake master cylinder. The brake fluid is coming from one of two places. Either from the reservoir in the ABS system because of pump cycling and aeration of the fluid which causes a reservoir overflow, or from the brake master cylinder. If it is from the ABS, the ABS modulator and the lower parts of the ABS system will be wet with fluid. Did you notice that the ABS pump was running a lot just prior to arrival at the golf course? If this is dry, look under the brake master cylinder and see if it is wet there. That should answer that question. If not let us know.

Brad
 
Last edited:
i had my abs turned off for about 2 years now. with the jumper method and it cant really tell the diffrence. Everything seem to run as normal and i beleive that the brake fluid leak is the brake cylinder fix it now before it really goes and then you'll either have to tow the car or fix it there.
 
OLDMNSX,
That was the exact answer I was looking for. I'll PM you. I would be interested in the jumper wire.

All that said:
I believe my brake master cylinder was changed last year. I'll confirm tonight. I think its ok however. The only place I see fluid is on the reservoir which I believe was due to the stuck solenoid. Concerning the ABS motor prior to parking, I didn't hear it. I did have the windows down and the radio on, so I may have missed it. The brake feel may have been a 'sixth sense' for a moment. Haven't noticed anything since.

All that said:
I took the car out Saturday morning and 'exercised it' to the point of probably needing new tires. It once again appears to be working. I'm probably going to disable it with the jumper if it happens again as I'm just done with dealing with it. If I drove in the rain, exercising it would be less of an issue but since its only on sunny days, I tend to not do it.

Thanks for info. I'll PM you on the jumper wire.
 
To answer your questions:
Can I just turn the ABS system off? YES
Will it hurt anything? NO
What is the best way to do this? (You didn't ask this, but that would be your next question anyway)

First off the problem is probably curable. I have helped many people with this same problem around the country. I've been quite successfull. Read some of my other posts on this subject.

The easiest way to disable the ABS is to unplug the wire from the ABS pressure switch that is attached to the ABS accumulator and install a jumper connector.

The pressure switch is attached to the accumulator mounting bracket. The accumulator is the large round sphere that is about the size of a large grapefruit or a double D. It is located to the rear of the ABS module and down low. It can be seen from above, but easier from underneath the car. There is a two wire connector that is ORANGE in color that you disconnect. I think that I may have an extra one of these jumper connectors so PM me your address and I will send you one. When you get the connector just plug it into the harness, from the chassis of the car, and your ABS pump cycling problems will disappear, SO WILL ANY ABS FUNCTION!!!! Then just zip tie the wire from the pressure switch back to itself (so it doesn't dangle)[You sure don't want anything dangling next to a Double D]. If I was home I could send you some pictures. I will be home on monday 22 Sep.

It is almost impossible to disconnect the orange connector from above the car. It is best done from underneath the car. In the mean time you can pull the ABS pump relay to disable the pump, but the ABS caution light will remain illuminated. You can also pull the two ABS fuses, but the ABS light will illuminate if I remember right. If you use the jumper that I am going to send you the ABS caution light will not illuminate. Your choice, let me know.

Now to address the different feel of your brakes. This has NOTHING to do with the ABS. It may be the start of a failing brake master cylinder. The brake fluid is coming from one of two places. Either from the reservoir in the ABS system because of pump cycling and aeration of the fluid which causes a reservoir overflow, or from the brake master cylinder. If it is from the ABS, the ABS modulator and the lower parts of the ABS system will be wet with fluid. Did you notice that the ABS pump was running a lot just prior to arrival at the golf course? If this is dry, look under the brake master cylinder and see if it is wet there. That should answer that question. If not let us know.

Brad

I jumped my connector with a paper clip (and later a proper wire) and for the most part it works. The ABS light is off and ABS is non-functional but every so often, maybe once every 500 miles, I hear the ABS buzz and the ABS light turns on. Any ideas why this happens? I just want to disable ABS and the ABS light permanently for now.
 
You will only miss your ABS, that one time you need it.
Too Late!


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I jumped my connector with a paper clip (and later a proper wire) and for the most part it works. The ABS light is off and ABS is non-functional but every so often, maybe once every 500 miles, I hear the ABS buzz and the ABS light turns on. Any ideas why this happens? I just want to disable ABS and the ABS light permanently for now.

You likely have a poor connection. You have disabled it the easiest and most proper way.

Get a salvaged connector as they are very common and make a better solid "jumped" conection. The grey connector works just as well as orange....if it fits it ships.
 
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