So who is the owner of this car???
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Very cool jack system on NSX.....
- Thread starter DocL
- Start date
why do the tires stay up??, as if the car would be on the floor,
photoshop maybe ??
photoshop maybe ??
It's for sale here on prime. It uses 4 air jacks from a Lola mounted to the tie down locations.
It's real most likely, no photoshop. The wheels don't drop probably because he's got aftermarket coil overs. Mine barely drop.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90232&highlight=lola
It's real most likely, no photoshop. The wheels don't drop probably because he's got aftermarket coil overs. Mine barely drop.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90232&highlight=lola
Very astute observation! I sense photo trickery as well.Regardless of suspension type there has to be more wheel droop than that.
I Want Those Airjacks!!!!
negative :wink:
my NSX when on a lift, the wheels drop no more than 1cm ... a little less than 1/2"...
with my previous car, a Civic with Eibach coil overs, there were no drop at all...
no need to do photo tricks... if there is a trick, it's a coil over trick:tongue: :tongue:
If there is interest. It's a relatively easy project to add them.
I ran all the lines, fitted in the AN to NPT coupler, and mounted the external receiver this past winter on my ride. All that is left is for me to pay and get shipped out the jacks and four safety stands. :smile:
For a different reason thou. Frequently wrenching on my car during the evenings, coupled with the ubber low ride height and under panels- it just makes good sense as jacks/jack stands, lifts, etc... can get a little precarious at times depending on what you are doing. Over time, it has become a real genuine maintainability problem for me day in and out.
AP, among many others offer components suited to our lift specification. I am using components from Genesis courtesy of HRP. I was thinking I could have Dave fab me up a set of custom plates so I don't have to re-tap my rails for the generic ones.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=579,212,363&action=category
I ran all the lines, fitted in the AN to NPT coupler, and mounted the external receiver this past winter on my ride. All that is left is for me to pay and get shipped out the jacks and four safety stands. :smile:
For a different reason thou. Frequently wrenching on my car during the evenings, coupled with the ubber low ride height and under panels- it just makes good sense as jacks/jack stands, lifts, etc... can get a little precarious at times depending on what you are doing. Over time, it has become a real genuine maintainability problem for me day in and out.
AP, among many others offer components suited to our lift specification. I am using components from Genesis courtesy of HRP. I was thinking I could have Dave fab me up a set of custom plates so I don't have to re-tap my rails for the generic ones.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=579,212,363&action=category
To what end? The guy is selling the car. Sooner or later a prospective buyer is going to ask about the airjack system, and will know right away if the pix are bogus.
So we are talking $3K for parts?
Just my opinion,,I could be wrong,,but it looks funky to me.I have never had a coil-over system on my car though so if someone would like to post a pic of thier car with coil-overs jacked up that would be helpful.
Scroll all the way down:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/pod_index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1662
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/pod_index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1662
Not sure what all the alarm and fuss is over.
More than likely he simply limited his travel. There are two ways to do this:
1) Install a Droop limiter. Essentially a delrin spacer that limits the effective travel (e.g. 30mm-40mm, etc..) per your requirements. JRZ, Moton, Penske, etc... can all assist you. JRZ quoted me out at $150 per shock plus $30 in parts for the service not long ago- so I'll probably just have it done next time I send them back in for service; as my back tends to sag a good bit with my heavier wheel/tire combo.
2) Affix a cable from the chassis to the hub. This is the NASCAR way of doing things, although some road race guys I've seen also employ this implementation.
More than likely he simply limited his travel. There are two ways to do this:
1) Install a Droop limiter. Essentially a delrin spacer that limits the effective travel (e.g. 30mm-40mm, etc..) per your requirements. JRZ, Moton, Penske, etc... can all assist you. JRZ quoted me out at $150 per shock plus $30 in parts for the service not long ago- so I'll probably just have it done next time I send them back in for service; as my back tends to sag a good bit with my heavier wheel/tire combo.
2) Affix a cable from the chassis to the hub. This is the NASCAR way of doing things, although some road race guys I've seen also employ this implementation.
no bad intentions on the wheel drop comment, just an observation.
i have tein RA and they do drop A LOT when i had my car on jacks (avatar :biggrin: ). looking at the other pictures, i notice a slight wheel drop ~2 in.
i have tein RA and they do drop A LOT when i had my car on jacks (avatar :biggrin: ). looking at the other pictures, i notice a slight wheel drop ~2 in.
Guys, read the description of the car! He has custom shortened shaft/stroke shocks! Thats why there is minimal droop!
Read:
Koni custom built adjustable shocks with threaded and hard anodized shock bodies, shortened shafts to minimize “droop” (to accommodate nitrogen air jacks). These were built using a Computer assisted shock dyno that measured an OEM NSX shock high and low speed bump and rebound. Then the shocks were valved to replicate the OEM high speed bump and rebound for high speed street/track and valved to replicate an open wheeled car data pulled @ Road America on low speed (turn in, and mid corner) bump and rebound. Completely rebuildable and serviceable. They were built by the shock builder who worked for Neuman Hass in the mid 90’s. Better set up that Penske racing shocks in this application as they were built for the NSX and they fit the NSX OEM locations without alteration.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90232&highlight=lola
Read:
Koni custom built adjustable shocks with threaded and hard anodized shock bodies, shortened shafts to minimize “droop” (to accommodate nitrogen air jacks). These were built using a Computer assisted shock dyno that measured an OEM NSX shock high and low speed bump and rebound. Then the shocks were valved to replicate the OEM high speed bump and rebound for high speed street/track and valved to replicate an open wheeled car data pulled @ Road America on low speed (turn in, and mid corner) bump and rebound. Completely rebuildable and serviceable. They were built by the shock builder who worked for Neuman Hass in the mid 90’s. Better set up that Penske racing shocks in this application as they were built for the NSX and they fit the NSX OEM locations without alteration.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90232&highlight=lola
I know the owner and car well. It's not photoshopped. As someone mentioned, the custom suspension keeps the wheels from dropping. This also has to be the cleanest early model NSX's I've ever seen. The air-jacks are also custom made.
- Joined
- 14 September 2006
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So who is the owner of this car???
He's obviously not a very bright guy jacking it up in such a precarious manner--on those wood blocks.
What an ignorant comment. You have no idea what the reason is for raising the car up like this. Ever thought that he may be lifting it up so he can get jackstands under it?
These airjacks were not designed to lift car up so you can get under it. It's to get the wheels off in a track situation.
These airjacks were not designed to lift car up so you can get under it. It's to get the wheels off in a track situation.
wowwww, now that would be a flying NSX !!! better than the De Lorean in back to the future :biggrin:
I have Tein coilovers, but without that jacking system, it's too much of a PIA to jack it up just to see!
The SOS JIC suspension has 2" of total travel. I set mine to be slightly below the midpoint of travel. Therefore I jack up the car about 7/8" before the wheels come off the ground.
T.J.
- Joined
- 14 September 2006
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Doesn't matter what he jacked it up to do, it is the way he did it:
#1: The blocks are too narrow. You want wider planks of wood. If you bumped into the car accidentally or for whatever reason the car moved slighty, one peg if not all pegs could slide off the wood or cause the wood to pivot on its edge and cause a disaster.
#2: The jack stand pegs sit ALL THE WAY AT THE END of the blocks of wood (or near the end) at the rear of the car. There is no reason for this precarious positioning. If you had to use those thin blocks of wood, at least put the pegs in the middle. If anything, use bricks or a combo of bricks and wood.
And if he was planning to put jackstands under the car, I would hope he'd do so ASAP after jacking it up instead of taking the time to take a picture of this disaster waiting to happen. The torque-wrench hints at something else.
This isn't meant as a flame, but to prevent a fellow NSX-owner from KILLING HIMSELF or someone else--the last thing I would want to see happen.
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