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WAXING

Joined
19 November 2001
Messages
46
Location
Tampa, Florida USA
First of all, thanks for all of the advice regarding the RX7 vs. NSX. I haven't made up my mind, but for sure, I'll keep you all posted throughout. I'm on the NSX website because I'm an enthusiast and eventual owner and I think you for your welcoming me into the forums.

Question - waxing. I've read the technical discussions on it, but it's too democratic and fair-based (as if not too hurt a particular manufacturers feelings - understandable) - however, what and HOW should a brand new car be waxed for the first time - in explicit detail to get the car to shine as if brand spanking new. One of the things I see alot is the fine scratches in the clear coat. I know you guys baby your cars, but I need some advice on how to approach waxing the NSX as to not at all hurt the paint. Thanks in advance for all your time with this.
 
I would highly recommend using Zaino.

You can learn all about their various products and read about the procedure here...
http://www.zainobros.com/

-Jim

------------------
1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
Looking for 76-79 Honda Accords
 
I highly recommend the Griot's Garage system using a machine polishing/wax system. I have had excellent results first with my '93 MR2 Turbo (red paint polished up like new) and with my '91 Black NSX. It uses a random orbital polishing machine (not high speed) so you won't "burn" your paint. You can find more info on their system here.

------------------
'91 Black/Black
 
I assume you're talking about a used car.

Assuming the paint isn't atrocious, here are the steps you will want to use:

1. Wash the car.

2. Use a good clay product to remove surface impurities. Most brands of detailing products include a clay product in their lineup. I've heard from knowledgeable folks that Clay Magic is the best.

claymagic.jpg


3. If there are any visible scratches or swirl marks, smooth them down with a good product designed for this purpose, such as Meguiar's #9 Swirl Mark Remover.

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4. Use a cleansing product such as Zymol HD-Cleanse to remove oxidation and light tar and acid rain deposits.

hdclean.gif


5. Finish the exterior with a protectant such as a carnauba-based wax. Zymol custom-designed their NSX wax for the NSX finish. However, due to its 51 percent carnauba content, it's not the easiest to apply and it's not cheap. Almost as good, and much easier to work with, is Zymol Japon.

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6. For the interior surfaces that are leather, use a good leather conditioner such as Zymol Treat.

treat.jpg


7. For the interior surfaces that are vinyl and plastic, use a product for this purpose, such as Zymol Vinyl, which leaves a nice satin sheen.

vinyl.jpg


Check the FAQ here if you're not sure which interior parts are vinyl and which are leather. (It's not easy to tell by looking at them.)

This may sound like a lot of work, but this is the procedure to use to restore your car to show condition. Once you do so, you won't have to do the Clay Magic, Swirl Mark Remover, or HD-Cleanse again for a long time - maybe once a year and/or only when you feel it's needed.

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 16 May 2002).]
 
Originally posted by nsxtasy:
...Assuming the paint isn't atrocious, here are the steps you will want to use...

Good overall advice once again from nsxtasy. I havent't used the Mother's or the Zymol products (because I have been happy with Griot's Garage - see above) but would like to point out that Griot's Garage also has and recommends a clay paint cleaner.

I have heard good things about Mother's and Zymol.

------------------
'91 Black/Black

[This message has been edited by Michigan NSX (edited 16 May 2002).]
 
Added note - I think what's most important is the procedure you use, rather than the brands. For example, if I had to choose between, say, (a) going through all the steps above but using all Meguiar's or Griot Garage products, vs (b) skipping steps 2 through 4 and using Zymol NSX wax, I would choose (a). IOW, I think you're better off doing all the steps even if you're using a different brand of products from that specified above.
 
I second nsxtasy's advice, both the types of products to use and the fact that they system is more important than any one brand of product. Another solution would be to pay a detailer to power-buff your car for you. This will restore it to new condition and you can maintain it (as nsxtasy points out) more easily once it's shiny. This should cost about $2-300 and will save you several hours of work.
 
I have to agree with all the above advice, especially in regard to the "system". I have a Blk/Blk which we all know can be a real challange. I happen to use the Meguiars system. It is 5 steps:

Gold Class Car Shampoo, w/Chenille(sp?) sponge
Cleaner and Clear Coat Prep
#9 Swirl Remover
#2 Polish
#26 Professional Yellow Wax

I have had many folks with Black NSX's complement me about the car, and say "How do you get it to look like that?" The key for me is the #2 Polish. It gives the car the "wet" look, all the time.

In addition, probably the most important thing is HOW you wash, to keep the swirl's/scratches from returning. It's very simple, use two buckets, a soap bucket and a rinse bucket. NEVER take the sponge off the car and go to the soap bucket, go to the rinse first, to insure no contaminants get into the soap. This is the MAIN cause for swirls, IMO.

It took me a full year of owning this Black car to figure this out, plus the help of NSXPrime that explained all this in detail, under the "Detailing Section" of the FAQ.

I used to get so frustrated when I would wash the car and it was all swirled up when I was done. I used to think I had to detail it EVERY time I washed it, No more!! I usually go through this "detailing" process once every spring, then wash carefully and wax a few times over the summer.

BTW, The "chenille" sponge is a sponge covered with a kind of "shag" material. You can get them at Target for about $3.

ALL OF THIS IS DONE IN THE SHADE, ALWAYS.

Regardless of what system you use, the techniques all apply. I am not pro/con to any system in particular, since I have seem really nice work done with most systems available. I will say that the general comments in regard to Mequiars and that is a little easier then other systems, if you are not a pro detailer.

Also, to be safe I use an orbital buffer. It takes a little longer, but it is completely safe.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Two more points to avoid swirls. Remember, swirls are usually caused by minute particles of dirt getting rubbed/swept across the finish. They can happen in a lot of ways; the wash rag is only one of them.

1. Be careful what you use as an applicator, for washing the car as well as for applying the polishes and waxes etc. Cotton is very soft. I use 100 percent cotton detailing cloths. (A bag of 36 is $12 at Sam's Club.) Larry mentions a Chenille sponge. I'm not sure about his but some sponges are wrapped in shag that is all cotton, and all cotton is good. Others contain polyester on the surface, which is not as gentle as cotton. I prefer the detailing towels because I think they are less likely to hold dirt in the weave than a thick shag on a sponge; just my O.

2. Don't let anything touch your car's finish except for soft cloths (detailing cloths or the soft side of a car cover). All you need to do is to set something down on top of your finish once (like before you get in the car or when you're about to put it in the trunk) and it may slide just enough to leave scratches there.
 
Great advice on this. Question though - what if this is the VERY FIRST wash and wax on a BRAND NEW car? Do all the steps such as swirl removing need to be done, or do I do a straight wash and wax?
 
Originally posted by SUPO:
Great advice on this. Question though - what if this is the VERY FIRST wash and wax on a BRAND NEW car? Do all the steps such as swirl removing need to be done, or do I do a straight wash and wax?

On a new car, I would skip the swirl remover and the clay. I would still cleanse, though. For the cleansing, you could use the HD-Cleanse, or you might consider a product designed for new car finishes, such as Meguiar's #5 New Car Glaze.

product_m05.gif
 
Thanks NSXtacy - except could you reorganize this information - I'm getting confused with the details from the other posts. For a new car - first wax - what are the procedure in steps? I don't want to create swirl marks or damage clear coat. And, is Maguires easier as the previous post said, or should I stick with your previous recommendations.
 
Ken,

The Chenille sponge I was talking about is 100% cotton. I agree with you totally about cotton only, and that is what led me to try this product.

Oh, one part I left out. There are actually 6 steps. After you are all done spray the car with "Quik Detailer" from Mequiars and wipe off with a clean cotton detail towel. This same product also comes in gallons and it is called "Final Inspection". Excellent results. After the first small bottle, you WILL buy a gallon!!

After the annual detail, when I only wash the car, I use this spray after every wash and it looks like I spent all day on the car. My complete wash routine takes about 1.5 hours.

HTH,
LarryB
 
http://www.nsxsc.com/html/body_article10.html

There's a good comparison between Zymol and Zaino over at NSXSC.

I view Zaino kind of like using a quality synthethic oil...Better protection and better performance. Doesn't soften or melt in hot weather... Lasts forever....Has a killer shine!

I also like Zaino because it's so easy to apply and remove.

As far as a new car and the first treatment, I would recommend using the following procedure...

1. Wash the car.
2. Clay - to remove contaminants.
3. Apply ZFX and Z5 (or Z2)
4. Use Z6 Enhancer spray afterwards as needed.

There's also a great section on tips and hints on the Zaino site...
http://www.zainobros.com/files/tips.htm

I think you'll find on both NSX Prime and NSXSC there's a lot of NSXers discovering that synthethic is the way to go!

------------------
1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1991 NSX Blk/Blk Auto #3070 (Sold)
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
Looking for 76-79 Honda Accords
 
With my advice on what the PROCESS is, rather than the specific BRANDS to use, I was trying to avoid yet another confrontation raised by the usual Zaino zealots, who look for any and every opportunity to push sales.

For some of the steps, I truly believe that Zymol products are better than Zaino in many, many ways. (If you're interested in hearing why I say this, send me a private e-mail.) And there are still many members of NSXprime and nsxsc that also prefer Zymol over Zaino for these steps. For other steps, I've found that Clay Magic and Meguiar's products seem particularly well-suited. The bottom line is that you can get great results using Zymol products, and you can get great results using Meguiar's products or other brands too.

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 17 May 2002).]
 
Do a search, please, and you can review all the previous arguments and nitpicking. Let's not go through it all over again.

Remember, the search is your friend.
 
Originally posted by Larry Bastanza:
After you are all done spray the car with "Quik Detailer" from Mequiars and wipe off with a clean cotton detail towel.

Why? It looks great as it is after the waxing step...
 
Thanks NSXtacy - except could you reorganize this information - I'm getting confused with the details from the other posts. For a new car - first wax - what are the procedure in steps? I don't want to create swirl marks or damage clear coat. And, is Maguires easier as the previous post said, or should I stick with your previous recommendations.
 
Originally posted by SUPO:
Thanks NSXtacy - except could you reorganize this information - I'm getting confused with the details from the other posts. For a new car - first wax - what are the procedure in steps? I don't want to create swirl marks or damage clear coat.

Simplified, here are my recommendations:

NEW CAR:

1. Wash.
2. Cleanse.
3. Wax.
4. Condition leather.

USED CAR:

1. Wash.
2. Clay.
3. Remove swirl marks (optional, if needed).
4. Cleanse.
5. Wax.
6. Condition leather.
7. Condition vinyl.

Originally posted by SUPO:
is Maguires easier as the previous post said, or should I stick with your previous recommendations.

I guess it depends on how picky you are, and how much trouble you want to go to to get the best products for the job - the ones that work the best as well as the ones that are easiest to use. I use a variety of products from different manufacturers, because I believe different products are best for different purposes, and no one brand is the best at everything. As you can see, some folks disagree, to the extent that the brand of detailing products you use becomes something akin to a religious cult. I still feel that the brand is not as important as the process, and you can use this same process with Zymol, Meguiar's, 3M, Zaino, or any other brand; each brand has its own product for each step of the way. And if you use this process, you'll find that any major brand will be pretty easy to use and give excellent results.

One advantage of Meguiar's is that it's sold in many auto parts stores; you can look up your local retailer on Meguiar's website here. Zymol is sold in a small number of specialty shops which you can locate on their website here, or purchase directly from their website or by Internet or phone from a specialist such as Emmons Coachworks, which carries a variety of brands. (Don't forget to join the NSX Club of America and use your member discount when you're buying from Zymol or Emmons.)

[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 16 May 2002).]
 
Ken,

Why the quik detailer? mmm... I guess I just like the "final" touch. It also has this great aroma. It says: "detailed" to me. Hey, we all have our quirks!
smile.gif


LarryB
 
Actually, I like the Meguiar's Quik Detailer, but for a different purpose. I use it for spot cleaning - like when there's a bird poop or a bug splat on the car, and I don't want to wash the whole thing.

product_a33.gif


Meguiar's also has a similar product, called Final Inspection #34. I asked their sales rep what the difference was, and he pointed out that they have a "consumer" line of products, and a "professional" line of products, even though both lines are sold to consumers in retail stores, and they need to cover all needs in both lines. He said they're virtually the same thing.

product_m34.gif
 
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