Why did my NSX die??

[Michael Zerivitz]

I was accelerating in 3rd up the "on ramp" of Interstate 4 (Florida) in my '92 NSX with 59,900 miles-- when it suddenly died! I felt a lurch, like the transmission downshifted, then the battery light and the engine check light came on - and the engine stopped. I drifted to the shoulder and tried to restart. After a few tries, the engine started, but stopped again after 30 seconds. Had the car towed home.

Now here is a possible clue. Last month I had the A/C compressor replaced. Afterwards, the "brake light out" warning light illuminated, but all of the brake lights were functioning properly. This went on for about a week, then the warning light stopped illuminating. Shortly thereafter, the car died w/o warning.
Any ideas what is wrong with my car??? Thanks!

 

[Acura NsX Pilot]

This is really not my field of expertise but have you checked the alternator.....maybe it went bad ?

 

[steveny]

Fuel pump?

 

[hlweyl]

It would help if we had more info. What does the car do now when you put the key in? Try to crank it? Does it start or nothing?

If it were the timing belt that went originally, I don't think it would start up again. Put the key in and turn on the lights, are they bright? If so then you can probably rule out alternator/battery. Then you might consider fuel pump/main relay.

HTH and good luck

 

[Michael Zerivitz]

More info...

Battery was replaced last month. It cranks, but will not turn over (not start). Seems like plenty of electrical power in the battery. Thanks to all for your suggestions, keep 'em coming.

 

[D'Ecosse]

I suspect the brake light indicator & the A/C compressor replacement have nothing to do with your problem.
To start, try pulling the trouble codes & we'll see where you go from there - see the FAQ http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/trouble_codes.htm for how to get the codes.
Otherwise for general T/S, you want to try to break the diagnosis down to fuel or spark & take it from there.

 

[NetViper]

I say the main fuel relay..

 

[demigod]

Maybe the distributor?

 

[Briank]

First find out if you have a fuel or spark problem. Squirt some fuel into the intake and see if it fires. If it does you have a fuel system problem, if not you have an ignition problem.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

This is the classic "My car will start but will not run" symptom. Since I have been through this recently I will give you my take.

There are three possibilities:

1. Ignition Switch
2. Main Relay
3. Fuel Pump Resistor

1. The ignition switch typically will end up with no indicator lights (Main power cut), so since you have the CEL light on and alternator light on, it probably is not the ignition switch. To test it for sure, try wiggling the key when it is in the "on" position. If your dash lights flicker, replace it.

2. The main relay's are troublesome, but lets try the fuel pump resistor first, since this is an easy test. Disconnect the fuel pump resistor and using a paperclip, jumper the two pins together in the harness. This will take the resistor out of the loop, and if it is bad, the car will fire up and run. This was the problem with mine, and it is sooo intermittent, it was a real PITA to finally diagnose. (I had replaced the main relay first and all seemed well, until a month later when the car died AGAIN.)

3. If it still will not fire up with the resistor jumped out, then I would replace the main relay. The main relay will enable the fuel pump. You can also test this by using a volt meter on the input side of the fuel pump resistor, it should be a + 12 in BOTH The START and RUN position of the ignition switch. The only other possibility if +12 is not there in the "run" mode is the ECU control output being bad, which is not too likely.

Additionally, if you are pretty good with a soldering iron, you can short out the contacts inside the main relay and see if the car runs. If you want details on this let me know, I have a "test relay" now of my own.

The other interesting thing to note is that each of these items are not very expensive, either to purchase and/or install. The hardest one to install would be the ignition switch, and even that is pretty easy.


HTH,
LarryB

 

[dlongo]

The other interesting thing to note is that each of these items are not very expensive, either to purchase and/or install. The hardest one to install would be the ignition switch, and even that is pretty easy.

Main Relay failures on the older cars seems so common from reading these threads. I'm thinking I should just replace mine now as preventative maintenance

 

[Zishan]

I say the main fuel relay..

I think its the main relay also. You problems sound like how mine was acting. Cheap fix and easy to replace, $50 part #RZ-1010.
Good Luck
- Z

ps - maybe we should put this in FAQ?

 

[huyduchoang]

I fixed the main relays on many hondas in the past. A new part may have the same problem in the future.

What you need to do is take apart the main relay and resolder all the contact points.

 

[Michael Zerivitz]

Lots of good ideas. I will take my car to a local independent (NSX certified) mechanic and will let you know what he finds.

Thanks to everyone!!!

 

[Michael Zerivitz]

The Answer is...... MAIN RELAY

Well, it turned out that the culprit was a bad Main Relay, a Mitsuba RZ-0101.
Cost of part: $70. Cost of Labor: $90.

Thank you to everyone who contributed ideas to help me determine the problem!

 

[NetViper]

Re: The Answer is...... MAIN RELAY

Well, it turned out that the culprit was a bad Main Relay, a Mitsuba RZ-0101.
Cost of part: $70. Cost of Labor: $90.

Thank you to everyone who contributed ideas to help me determine the problem!

I won! Do I get a prize . You should have installed it yourself and saved the $90. It takes about 5 minutes. Glad your car is alive and well again!