Window Air Noise and Blasted Dealers

[N-Wing]

So I had the potential for the dredded 'door locks and doesn't open problem'. So I had the lock changed. Normally no one steps within 4 feet of the car with a wrench unless his name is Larry B but this was a simple job so off to the local dealer. So now I feel the door does not close 'perfectly'. Something seems just a bit off and I find it gets stuck half closed more often than usual (if you don't slam it of course). This I could live with but, I'm also getting a wind noise right near the rear view mirror which I know I didn't have before. Also, I'm seeing very light witness marks on the inside of the window by the lock stem inferring some type of contact. I also notices that the rubber at the front portion on the outside of the window is riped a bit which might cause the noise. I took it back to the dealer and I was so unimpressed with the response from the tech that I told him I would take it apart myself (basically, they didn't touch the window, they couldn't have done it, I don't know what I going to look for, yada yada).

Now, the entire window unit was completely overhauled by Larry a little over a year ago and I never heard a noise prior (it was perfect). Any suggestions as to what I should look for in there? I'll also have to search for how to replace that rubber boot deal on the outside front of the window. I presume you can get that.

Thoughts?

 

[nsxtasy]

Based on your description, it's possible your windows were tampered with in some ways, and I'm not sure what you might have to do about it.

The windows do have some adjustability, though; it's most frequently evident when there is wind noise at high speeds. The procedure for adjusting them is in the body section of the service manual, under the heading "door glass adjustment".

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Bring it back to LarryB J/K

On each door there are small rubber stoppers. They actually screw in and out, to set the tension on the door when it is engaged with the stricker plate. Sounds like these may be turned out a little too far and they are actually holding the door further open(more tension against the stricker plate). On page 20-18 of the service manual they show adjustment of the stricker plate as well.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks Larry. With gas prices I'm trying to avoid driving all the way down there for something that simple. I'll check the stoppers this weekend and then I'll do a quick experiment with some tape concerning the wind noise. If the noise is from rubber, I'll get that replaced. Can't be too hard.

I'm mad because with my spacers orgainized 15 front 25 rear and my shark II antenna and Brian K's help on my CCU board, the car is back to perfect. Now that darn noise...

Thanks All.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Thanks Larry. With gas prices I'm trying to avoid driving all the way down there for something that simple. I'll check the stoppers this weekend and then I'll do a quick experiment with some tape concerning the wind noise. If the noise is from rubber, I'll get that replaced. Can't be too hard.

I'm mad because with my spacers orgainized 15 front 25 rear and my shark II antenna and Brian K's help on my CCU board, the car is back to perfect. Now that darn noise...

Thanks All.

You better brace yourself for that. For the cost of those seals you can get to the West Coast and still have gas money left

There is a product for the rubber seals called "Shin Este". It is a silicone lube for the seals and it is about $15 or so. If you get to that point, I would go that route before getting the seals.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[N-Wing]

Thanks Larry. I think I wrote this poorly. The seal I'm looking to fix is not the seal between the door and the window, although ultimately that may be the issue. The rip I have is on the rubber (not foam) on the window jam on the front 'tower'. It touches the window on both the inside and outside. I'll get a pick this weekend to make it more clear. The foam seal is in excellent condition. No need to mess with that.