Window alignment guide-High bandwidth only!

[skyguy]

Over the years here on the Prime I have garnered invaluble information on the NSX. It's my turn to contribute.

Please excuse the spelling errors...
Here we go.

I decided to align my windows myself. After consulting with a NSX Master Tech I decided it could be done with an afternoon or 2...

The degree of difficulty is about a 7 on a scale of 10. So if you need your windows aligned and have the ability, time and tools then read on.

*Disclaimer: Everything here is based on my experience with this procedure. For warrented results get a quote from your local Acura Servive Department.

Consult your year manual for any changes/addendums.

*If you havent replaced your "window thinghys" with the Dali part, do so before alignment when door guts are taken apart.


OK, so here is my take:

Tools-

-Body panel prying tool as shown
-Allen wrench *Metric.
-Weatherstrip adhesive black, (Wal-Mart) *Really nasty stuff. Get another person to help at this stage. Unless you want it on the body of your NSX!
-Metric sockets and wrenches. *You will need a deep well 10mm socket for the removal of the rear pillar panel.
-blue tape
-flashlight
-Honda super high temp urea greese. *Most Honda/Acura dealers will have this in stock.
-Any other tools deam to do the job.

The NSX manual calls for measuring the window gap with all the trim and associated panels removed. These measurements are somewhat critical. Getting my digital calipers in the space required was impossible. I suppose Honda makes a measuring tool for this. I made my own "gap gauges." using 1/8 inch Baltic Birch plywood and cut them close to spec and then using my upright belt sander I fine sanded them to spec. Using a set of digital caliper to match the required mm width.

Step 1:
*Assuming you don't need door adjustment. If so see below diagram 20-18
Lower window fully.
Remove the inner trim plate. *shark gill leather thinghy. Use a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver covered in a sturdy cloth!

Step 2:
Remove the inside door handle. *page 20-6 manual below.
There are 8 screws total, (4 black/4 gold.) Be sure and not get them mixed up when reinstalling the inner door handle. You will ruin the plastic attaching threads if you do! Take a piece of masking tape and mark which side they go on for reassembly. *see pix.

Remove the door lock cable. *Note which of the three settings it is in the clip for reinstal.

Disconnect the plug for the power door lock.

Step 3:

Remove the front & rear sash covers. *Use body tool. Be careful of the two stubborn clips holding them in place.

Step 4:

Remove the screws holding the door panel on the door. There are 7 screws total. They are hidden under the weatherstriping, (no pix.)
The weatherstrip may come loose from the door. Use the body tool to pry the plastic fastner from the door. Re-attach during reassembly.

Now comes the hard part. Removing the door panel. The panel is held in place at the top where it meets the sill. Place one hand under the panel,

and the other hand at end of jamb near the lock. Now simultaneously push up to relieve the door from the top sill and pull out/slightly backwards with the other hand. You may have to bump it from below to losen from the sill. *Beware there are many connectors still attached to the panel.

Now while balancing the panel on your thigh disconnect the following:

1-Trunk lid opener, (driver door only.)
2-Power window
3-Courtesy light
4-Security alarm

Once the panel is free, Do not rest it right side up. You will damage the fasting tabs. Place on towel upside down or flat.

Step 5:

Remove the Bose Speaker/Amp unit. *Unscrew and Unplug. At this time feel free to shot-put the Bose into the nearest brick wall. It might be the best thing to do with this failure prone thing.:biggrin:

Step 6:

Remover the Control switch panel. *The thinghy the has the up/down window switch in the door panel. *4 screws.

You will need to use this to make the window go up/down during alignment. Connect to the power plug as needed during alignment check.

Step 7: Remove the Weather stripping. Remove the plastic fastners at each end. *Note: The fastner in the very front is of different size. Use body tool to lift them out.

*Clean body metal underneath weatherstrip with a non-paint removing solvent. I used denatured alcohol. But there are other options. If weatherstrip is worn/old. Call Acura, get in other car, get new weather strip.

Step 8:

Remove furry strip near weather strip. It is held in place by self friction and is tucked under the body panels at both ends. I had no problem during reassembly to just tuck it back in at both ends. I don't know if the manual calls for the removal of this furry strip, but when you re-attach the weatherstripping with the weatherstrip adhesive it will get on the furry strip if not removed....:smile:

Step 9:

Take break. Have lunch. :biggrin:

Step 10:

Remove the front pillar trim panel. *The long body trim piece that is painted running from front of body to top back of body.

Remove the rear trim panel. *3 screws.

Step 11:

Remove the rear pillar panel. This is the sail like painted panel just aft of the window. This part was the hardest step. You need this removed to measure during align period. You have to remove the rear inside trim panel, and a portion of the headliner panel and the seat belt bolt.

Now the hard part. The rear pillar panel is held in place by a nut on elongated shafts, (2 shafts total.)

and some body clips. Use your 10mm deep socket to get at these nuts. Prying back the headliner taking care as to not bend it too much,
*Pix is 10mm socket turned by hand.

(I suppose you could remove the whole headliner, but thats too much.)
Once the nuts are loosend take extra care as to not drop them in the body cavity. I cannot stress this enough. The elongated shafts are there to help you not drop them into the body of the car.
Pix of shaft without nut.

Pix of inside pillar without nuts.

Step 12:

Loosen the 4 bolts holding the regulator assembly. *Middle top/bottom of door. *Pix taken from above.

Step 13:

Loosen the 1 bolt at the front and rear sash, (2 bolts to loosen total.) The one that is non adjusting.
*Top bolt in pix.

Loosen both the front and rear sash adjusting nuts. *Use a box wrench with a allen wrench so as to not change adjustment. Truth be told. The nut can be loosend without the allen wrench using a socket.

*The first pix below is of adjusting the rear glass guide nut, not the sash adjust nut.
Pix is used for wrench demo only.

*The pix below is one of the sash adjusting nut, (lower nut in pix.)
There is one adjusting nut for each sash. loosen them both.

It may happen where the adjusting nut is stubborn and you can't hold the inner screw portion with the allen wrench while turning the outside nut with box wrench. If this is the case, do not force it. Remove the allen wrench and completly unscrew the adjusting bolt/nut with the box wrench. Get two same size metric nuts and thread them on the opposite end, jamming them against eah other. Clamp them your vice and unscrew the adjusting nut with box wrench.
Clean entire bolt/nut with whatever it takes to remove gunk/grime. *Pix shown is a toothpick in allen hole.

Step 14:
Move both the front and rear sash fore & aft to to align the door glass with the body at the front and center pillar. *No pix. Simply move the front one forward and the aft one back.

Step 15:

Loosen the nuts securing the rear glass guide. and adjust the fore and aft by moving the glass guide. * This was kind of hoksey at best. See diagram page # 20-15 below.

Step 16:

Carefully close door while holding glass at top, (prevents shattering window if you slam it with no protecting weatherstrip.)

Loosen the bolts at the stopper plates and adjust so that clearance "H" is within spec. *See page 20-15 diagram below.

Take your marking/measuring device(s) and measure the "H" clearance. *See daigram page 20-14 below for specs. Measured at 5 points along window.

*Note. The measure "H" is the top of glass to the frame. ie; how far up the window is to the frame. Truth be told. This spec is usually not out of whack. The critical adjust is the "B" measure, ie: how far the window is from the inside to the weatherstrip. This "B" measure is how far the window is bowed out or in. *usually out=wind noise at high speed.

Step 17:

Adjust "B" clearance by loosening the 4 nuts on the front & rear glass guides.

Turn each bolt with the allen wrench the same amount

Turning the allen counterclockwise lessen the clearance between window and frame. "sucks top of window closer to body."

Sit in car. take measuring device and measure along the 5 points as referenced in the diagram 20-14 below.

Step 18:

Greese window rails with Honda urea greese. *reach around rails with glop on finger, spread at will.:biggrin:

*if you have not installed the Dali window fixit thinghy, too late!
Posted elsewhere here on Prime. Pix is of old plastic part. Yes I replaced it before I did the alignment.

Step 19:

Tighten everything back up. Just reverse the order above.

Check alignment specs again before putting the body panels/weatherstriping back on.

I'm sure I forgot something. Please feel free to add a post of any corrections you may have.

Good luck!

Skyguy:smile:

Pages from a 1991 NSX shop manual below:

 

[Hugh]

Excellent work. This invaluable piece of information should be immediately added to the FAQ.

Thanks!

 

[needspeed]

This is what Prime is all about. Thanks so much for making the time to detail out this process for the community..........Steve

 

[whiteNSXs]

Thanks for the excellent write-up. I will not attempt the DIY myself.:biggrin:
Steve

 

[clr1024]

very well written and documented. I agree this should be posted in the FAQ right away

 

[dquarasr2]

That's awesome.

I'm still having trouble, though. With the glass all the way forward in its pads, with the regulator all the way forward, with the front and rear guides all the way forward, and with the rear sash all the way back, the glass still hits the rear sash on its way up and jams about 1" from the top.

I'm at my wits' end. Oster from Orlando is coming to Homestead so I'm going to let him look at it. I've spent 9 hours on it thus far to no avail. I cannot figure out why the window hits the sash.

But thanks much for this "how to".

 

[skyguy]

That's awesome.

I'm still having trouble, though. With the glass all the way forward in its pads, with the regulator all the way forward, with the front and rear guides all the way forward, and with the rear sash all the way back, the glass still hits the rear sash on its way up and jams about 1" from the top.

I'm at my wits' end. Oster from Orlando is coming to Homestead so I'm going to let him look at it. I've spent 9 hours on it thus far to no avail. I cannot figure out why the window hits the sash.

But thanks much for this "how to".

Humm. Dunno why this is happening. I found this to be useful concerning the sash adjustments.
1-Loosen all the sash bolts and adjustting nuts. Front and rear
2-Slide them as far fore, (forward) sash and aft, (rear sash) as possible.
3-Make your "H" & "B" adjustments as per the instructions, (leaving the two sash's completly loose.)
4-Roll the window all the way up.
5-Now adjust the sash's adjustment nut to conform with the current window position.
6-Tighten all the sash bolt's/adjustment nuts.

*The sash's are now aligned with current window "H" & "B" alignment. In other words make the sash's conform to the "H" & "B" settings.

I hope this helps.

BTW. It took me one day to do the pax side and 1/2 day to do the drivers side.

Side note. In the original post I stressed the point of not dropping the 10mm nut from the rear pillar into the body, remember. Well I was so careful with the nut I fumbled the 10mm socket, (not attached to handle) and dropped it into the body!

OK, so now I had to completly remove the seat belt rig and some inside panels, make a run to auto parts store and buy a magnitic retriever. Using my wifes compact mirror and a hefty flashlight I was able to retrieve the 10mm socket!:smile:
This added about an hour to the job and I wanted to melt the offending socket with a blowtourch!

Also the Acura manual calls for testing the complete job by running water from a hose on the window. I did not do this, I just took the NSX for a real high speed run. 110% better. Wind noise gone at all speeds!
:smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile:

 

[ChopsJazz]

Awesome! Now I know how to spend the rest of my summer vacation. At my rate I should get the "gap gauges" done in about a week!

Thanks for a helpful post!

 

[goldNSX]

Excellent!

 

[Vendetta]

When my driver side window is rolled up when the door is open, the door will not close. The top of the window hits the car and door won't shut. This sounds like exactly what I need to do but after reading through your nice writeup, I won't be trying this anytime soon. Maybe in the winter when my car just sits around.....maybe I'll pay someone more knowledgeable. :redface:

I need to do something soon because my windows "pop" when I roll them up and down. Time for the Dali fix it thingies.

 

[rbirling]

The distance the windows roll up is set by two bumpers at the top of the door. It would be very easy to adjust those, but probably you would need to do the other adjustments as well. But if it saves you a broken window, probably worth doing now.

The popping is a need for lubrication. You should only need the fixit thingies if you're window has the old type thingies. Doesn't hurt to replace them, but more difficult than the other stuff.

When my driver side window is rolled up when the door is open, the door will not close. The top of the window hits the car and door won't shut. This sounds like exactly what I need to do but after reading through your nice writeup, I won't be trying this anytime soon. Maybe in the winter when my car just sits around.....maybe I'll pay someone more knowledgeable. :redface:

I need to do something soon because my windows "pop" when I roll them up and down. Time for the Dali fix it thingies.

 

[skyguy]

When my driver side window is rolled up when the door is open, the door will not close. The top of the window hits the car and door won't shut. This sounds like exactly what I need to do but after reading through your nice writeup, I won't be trying this anytime soon. Maybe in the winter when my car just sits around.....maybe I'll pay someone more knowledgeable. :redface:

I need to do something soon because my windows "pop" when I roll them up and down. Time for the Dali fix it thingies.

It did take a while to do the job. Allow a weekend to do it right and replace the window thinghys. If your window(s) are starting to "pop", I would not chance it whatsoever. Do not use your window untill you install the Dali fixit thinghy.
Just my 02 cents worth.:smile:

 

[Bob Kenney]

One of the best, most complete documentations I have read or seen; I bet you could have cut you time in half if you had not chosen to take the time to share this with the rest of us. THANK YOU.:biggrin:

 

[710]

IMO posts like this one and many others on this site double the value of our cars. With such excellent resources like those on this site, our cars can be kept going, modified and in good condition easily instead of just a rare Honda with fallen windows and broken climate control units etc....
Thanks for the excellent post.

 

[MvM]

Skyguy,

This is a truly excellent writeup with very good and clear pictures. I agree completely with others, this should be in the FAQ.

I have recently put back my car together and did not even remember that I had done all that, although.
Only today, I have just discovered that my left window leaks a little at speed above 130 mph. Not annoyingly so, but it is definately something I have to check up on a later date.

One thing. If you have a loose battery around, you can leave the door-switch in the bodypanel and also use two wire with two small contact-points the make the window go up and down.

At dquarasr2:

I am very puzzled by your problem, 1" is a lot of distance. Could you post a picture of your problem, it might clarify things a lot.

 

[skyguy]

I did this in hopes those of you attempting this project might not have as many trial & error situations as in other NSX fix-it projects I have experienced in the past. Knowing this before I started this project I had the resources, (and "Geek-ability") to pull it off.

Hugh

Excellent work. This invaluable piece of information should be immediately added to the FAQ.

Thanks so much Maybe Lud will do it.

needspeed

This is what Prime is all about. Thanks so much for making the time to detail out this process for the community..........Steve

I couldn't agree more...thanks!

whiteNSXs

Thanks for the excellent write-up. I will not attempt the DIY myself.
Steve

It can be a pain and this is another reason to post this "surgery." Thanks!

clr1024

very well written and documented. I agree this should be posted in the FAQ right away

As Hugh said above...Who knows. At the very least it will show up in a search for Prime membes. Thanks!

dquarasr2

That's awesome. I'm at my wits' end.

I have felt this feeling way too many times also. Please feel free to PM me for any other concerns during Oster's visit to fix that pesky window. I do check in frequently. Thanks!

Chopsjazz

Awesome! Now I know how to spend the rest of my summer vacation. At my rate I should get the "gap gauges" done in about a week!

I hope it dosen't take your vacation/NSX driving time away from you!:tongue: I was PM'd about making the "gap guages" for Prime members. I replied that maybe a small donation to Prime would be enough. I should call my Acura Tech and ask 'em what they use. The permissable tolerance is +-2mm. My wood gap guages were very, very close to that. If anyone knows of what Acura use to weasure the gaps, please post.
Thanks Chopsjazz!

GoldNSX

Excellent!

Thanks!

Vendetta

I won't be trying this anytime soon. Maybe in the winter when my car just sits around.....maybe I'll pay someone more knowledgeable.

I just had $1800 worth of scheduled service done on my car. Had I not just spent this $ I think I might have had Acura do my window alignment. *If you do have Acura do the window alignment make sure the tech has done this procedure before!
Thanks!

Rbirling

The distance the windows roll up is set by two bumpers at the top of the door. It would be very easy to adjust those, but probably you would need to do the other adjustments as well. But if it saves you a broken window, probably worth doing now.

Couldn't agree more! Thanks!

Bob Kenny

One of the best, most complete documentations I have read or seen; I bet you could have cut you time in half if you had not chosen to take the time to share this with the rest of us. THANK YOU.

It would have saved some time as you quoted but it was the write-up that took the most time. Keeping the digital camera away from the greesy tools etc, was a pain!:biggrin: Thanks!

710

IMO posts like this one and many others on this site double the value of our cars. With such excellent resources like those on this site, our cars can be kept going, modified and in good condition easily instead of just a rare Honda with fallen windows and broken climate control units etc....
Thanks for the excellent post.

Couldn't agree more!:smile: how's Belguim this time of year? I miss the beer and the great food in Oostende. Thanks!

 

[dquarasr2]

Skyguy,
At dquarasr2:

I am very puzzled by your problem, 1" is a lot of distance. Could you post a picture of your problem, it might clarify things a lot.

As always, thanks for any offers or insight, most appreciated.

I don't think a picture would help, although I'll see what I can do. (Thus far when I take pictures at 480x600 they're still too big for Prime to allow them to be posted. I'll have to check the "how to post pictures" instructions again. If I have time this weekend I'll take some pics.)

The rear edge of the glass has an angle in it, must be about 130 degrees or so. As the window comes up, the point of that angle hits the felt in the inside of the sash. Actually, there's a little bump in the sash. I disassembled the sash. The bump is one of two very small rubber stops for the external door handle. I even removed the rubber stop from the handle assembly to give the window the gnat's *ss extra clearance it needs to go up all the way. No luck. It still BARELY hits the sash and jams. The window will go up to the adjustable bump stops at the top of the travel only if I remove the sash, put up the window, and then re-install the sash.

This has been fairly exasperating. While I did not perform the complete clearance adjustments and measurements, I did move the window as far forward as it would go and the sash as far rearward as it would go, clearance measurements-be-damned. (Actually, if I would set the clearance at the front of the window per measurement, the window would hit the sash even sooner in the "up" travel.)

I can't help think that there must be something else going on here, like maybe the tabs in the window guides are worn out allowing too much play in the window's position. But then again, when I started this whole adventure, all I had done was adjust the bottom rear adjusters to get the top of the window tighter against the weatherstrip (i.e., pull the top of the glass closer to the body, not the up/down adjustment).

 

[skyguy]

As always, thanks for any offers or insight, most appreciated.

I don't think a picture would help, although I'll see what I can do. (Thus far when I take pictures at 480x600 they're still too big for Prime to allow them to be posted.

Try this free image software program called Irfanview here.

Once installed open you image by clicking on the top left icon of a folder.
Once the image is in the main window click on "Image". In the drop down box that appears click on "resize/resample." in the width box make the say...600. It will keep the aspect ratio of the height in porportion. Now just click on the disk image at the top to save your newly sized photo. Thats it!
It is also a great slide show program as well.

I'll have to check the "how to post pictures" instructions again. If I have time this weekend I'll take some pics.)

In Prime forums click on "Click here to upload your NSX photos."

In the top right corner just below where it sez "Logout" you will see a link to "upload photos." Click on that and use the browse keys to select photos. It will ask you if you want to process these files, just click yes and your photos are now on your members "NSX picture & video Gallery." To link them to a post just right click on the picture and choose "Copy link location." In the field box when you make your new or reply post here on Prime click on the icon at the top (5th from right) that looks like postage stamp with a mountain in it. In the field box that appears hit Ctrl key and V key on your keyboard...Done. Now your pix is resized and wil appear in your post. I know it sounds like a lot, but after a couple times it's ez.

I can't help think that there must be something else going on here, like maybe the tabs in the window guides are worn out allowing too much play in the window's position. But then again, when I started this whole adventure, all I had done was adjust the bottom rear adjusters to get the top of the window tighter against the weatherstrip (i.e., pull the top of the glass closer to the body, not the up/down adjustment).

Hummm. It sounds like the rear of the window is possible angled incorrectly. Hummm. Maybe, somehow, the glass became slightly rotated counterclockwise, (looking at the window from the outside of car.) a very little bit.
Are the front glass rails somehow lifted upward at all? If they are a little this will cause a jamming at the rear. Hummm, check the sash if it's been damaged or...If the gap within the sash itself wide enough for the glass. I dunno. These are the areas I might check. If all else fails, leave it in the dissasembled state and limp down to the nearest Acura Service center.

Good luck!

Skyguy

 

[NSXLuvr]

Holy cow. Incredible write up - Thank you. Talk about being thorough. But I think you convinced me to have some friends over or let Acura do it.:biggrin:

Thanks again.

 

[matteni]

Fantastic job on this writeup. It is efforts and the "giving back" like this that makes owning an NSX so rewarding. Thank you again!

 

[Vega$ NSX]

Wow, that writeup was so great, it effectively convinced me to not try and tackle this job myself. :smile:

 

[johnny010]

Wow, that writeup was so great, it effectively convinced me to not try and tackle this job myself. :smile:

The problem is, the dealer that I went to couldn't do it either.

 

[gar123]

Skyguy,

Thanks for the complete detail of aligning the windows. It's an invaluable write up. It's too bad you live in Des Moines Iowa. I don't know if I should attempt this myself, though. If anyone in So-cal needs to get this done, maybe we can do this alignment together- meeting of minds, sort of speaking. I live in Oxnard. E-mail me at [email protected]. Thanks again Skyguy for your knowledge on this- Kudo's to you, my friend.

Galvani

 

[CL65 Captain]

FYI: Even though the 1997-2005 Manual shows the same page and procedure, the Targas are much harder to do because the weather stripping isn't one piece going back. The front strip wraps around the windshield, then you have a piece on the targa and the third piece wraps around the rear.

I got about 1/2 through this and realized that I think its time to let the dealer finish the job. Well at least the door panel is already off.

 

[eddie_82]

Before I tackle this job I would like to ask the collective wisdom of Prime for their advice. Please note this only applies to the driver's side door in my case.

When I am driving if I roll up the window it does not seal completely and I get some wind noise. It appears to come from the top of the window towards the rear of the car. If I open the door then roll up the window and shut the door, there is no wind noise. It appears that the window goes up an extra 1/8" or so when the door is open.

Which adjustments do I need to consider in order to correct this?