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whats the best oil to use?

dnicho05:

I'm not taking exception to anything you said, but it certainly DOES beg the question: Why were you opening up an engine with only a measly 65K miles on it?

Richard
'93 Blk/Blk
 
rrwildman said:
dnicho05:

I'm not taking exception to anything you said, but it certainly DOES beg the question: Why were you opening up an engine with only a measly 65K miles on it?

Richard
'93 Blk/Blk

Yes I knew that was coming. Short answer: its a DODGE. ;) Longer answer: The Intake manifold plenum pan gasket blew out. Its a typical problem with the RAM engines. Dodge basicly cheaped out with the intake manifold. Instead of having a one peice intake they did a two piece. To make it worse the top half is Aluminum, and the bottom part (the plenum pan) is a cheap thin steel plate.

Dissimilar metals with different expansion characteristics + Cheap Gasket + Normal engine heat = Failed Gasket.

If you go to any of the Dodge forums you can find threads on this. A lot of people are really pissed about it. When the gasket lets go, you basicly get a vacuum in the engine block which sucks in engine gasses and oil. If left unchecked it will eventually cause engine failure, which a bunch of people have had happen, and Dodge basicly says "Tough Luck" to them.

Fortunately its an easy engine to work on, and I detected the problem immediately, so no problem here (except for the lost weekend I spent fixing it). :p
 
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EIFFEL said:
If you change it every 3000 miles, then it will be bright silver color and like new:D
:D
If it was an all aluminum engine with Titanium push rods, like some other car's engine that I can't put my finger on at the moment, I would totally agree with you. As for this engine it consists of a lot of pot metal and steel which always browns with heat and time (even with the use of synthetics). :eek:

Oh, and in case anyone was curious as to what a blown out plenum pan gasket looks like, here's what mine looked like.
 

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I just picked up some Lucas 20/50 Plus racing oil on the recommendation of a local engine builder. I'm planning on doing a little dyno test later this month to see if it produces any more hp. The guy says he typically sees hp increases of 3% to as much as 5%.

We'll see.
 
What I know:

1. Car manufacturers are starting to put synthetic and recommending only synthetic for their new cars.

2. Conventional oils have "thickeners" added that give it its multigrade properites. Since synthetic oils are more stable, they don't require these thickeners. These thickeners are made of very large molecules which can be easily sheared - this affects the stability of conventional oil. The bigger the difference between the low and high viscosity rating, the more thickeners you use.

3. Running 20/50 will probably SLOW down your car, not give you more HP. For pure performance, you want to run the thinnest oil you can while still maintaining around 220 degrees oil temp. Oil starts to break down around 300 degreess. I run 20/50 Redline Oil in my SER because it runs very hot under road racing conditions so I need the heat protection of the 20/50.

4. Your engine doesn't run at just one temp - there are parts of the car where friction and heat is much higher than your average engine temp. This is where oils breakdown. Synthetic oils, because they don't have to use thickeners. This is probably why BMW recommends such long change intervals for their cars.

If oil didn't breakdown, why would we need to change it every X miles? Since synthetics don't breakdown as quickly, you can technically go longer between oil changes offsetting some of the higher cost of synthetic oils.

5. Oil is a mix of base stocks, detergents, "thickeners", and anti-wear ingredients.

6. Synthetic oil tends to have more detergents (maybe because they don't need thickeners) and keep your engine cleaner.

7. Race oils don't have detergents to help suspend combustion byproducts and keep them from forming deposits in your engine. Fewer detergents = better lubrication properties (more oil, less cleaner). Of course, they expect you to change the oil after every race.

8. If your NSX is being pushed on a road course, it's probably not maintaining ~180 degree oil temps.

9. Many new cars (new F150, new Hondas) run 5/20 oil. Better mileage and lower emissions (not sure how this helps emissions).

10. Saying conventional oil is just as good as synthetic is like saying that push rods are just as good as overhead cams. Push rods get the job done but by any technical measure, overhead cams are better and you just seem like an old fart if you argue for push rods. :)

I run synthetic in my cars - my Infiniti FX45 is synth from the factory.
 
I have always done oil changes every 3-4k and I can't complain on the results. My commuter 94 Camry has 253k miles on it and runs great with original engine and tranny.

My father in law just bought a new 2004 911 4S cabriolet and he told me that the first oil change is at 15k miles. Can that be right??? I could never wait that long because I would go nuts after like 5k.

My question is even if the car doesn't "need" an oil change until 15k wouldn't it still be better to change it at least every 7500 miles minimum.
 
Most cars required changing every 7,500 miles. Porsche uses synthetic oil in their cars so they extended their intervals to 15k. I'm sure it won't hurt to go shorter - especially if you drive the car hard. 15k is based on "normal driving conditions".
 
I am currently using the CASTROL RS. Although I want to try the Castrol SLX but was not recommended by workshops cause they say the oil is too 'thin'. What do u guys think?
 
I went to Walmart to buy a case of Mobil 1 for my first oil change. Went to check out counter and when they scanned the case, the price came out to $4.31 for the case of 6 quarts. I told the clerk that was wrong. She scanned it 3 more times and said, "that's what the computer says, and I'm not going to argue!!" So I went back and got 4 more cases all for less than $25!! So that should cover my "expensive oil" costs for awhile. I tried to tell her it was wrong twice, and she wouldn't listen!!! Oh well!!! Just a little Mobil 1 oil story for you!!!
 
Heh... i'm a freak about this stuff..... I change my oil before every track event. I have gone to the track once a month so far. And usually i don't even drive it much on the 'in-between' periods. A lil crazy yeah... but.. eh.. it's just me...

Oh yeah.. i use mobil 1 10/30 non-synth. Reasoning: on the back of the honda oil... you'll see the mobil 1 logo... and i don't think it's synthetic. (think i'm gonna get hurt for saying that one).


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JChoice said:
Porsche uses synthetic oil in their cars so they extended their intervals to 15k.
That's odd, because the manufacturers of synthetic oil have retracted their long-ago claims that you could extend your oil change intervals if you are using synthetic oil.

Supercar said:
I am currently using the CASTROL RS. Although I want to try the Castrol SLX but was not recommended by workshops cause they say the oil is too 'thin'. What do u guys think?
We don't have those kinds of Castrol oil in North America.

Oh, and can you please spell out words like "you"? This isn't a chat room. Thank you.

VBNSX said:
i use mobil 1 10/30 non-synth. Reasoning: on the back of the honda oil... you'll see the mobil 1 logo... and i don't think it's synthetic.
That's odd, too. Mobil 1 is Mobil's branding for synthetic oil. Mobil also sells non-synthetic oil, but it is not labeled as "Mobil 1".
 
What's the best oil to use?

Extra virgin olive oil, but it really depends on your cooking needs. For other purposes I suggest a water-based lubricant, such as K-Y, it doesn't cause latex to break down.
 
Re: What's the best oil to use?

I know this is off topic. I have a female friend with a 2000 BMW 3 Series, and she did not change oil (even though her tripcomputer/the maintenance indicator light must have asked her to) for 23K miles. Miracuously, the engine was fine until she put Diesel fuel into the car.

:eek:
 
TigerNSX:
"I have a female friend with a 2000 BMW 3 Series, and she did not change oil (even though her tripcomputer/the maintenance indicator light must have asked her to) for 23K miles. Miracuously, the engine was fine until she put Diesel fuel into the car."



Remind me why again women are allowed to drive??

J/K:) sort of;)
 
I have been using Redline 10/30 synthetic, great quality race oil. Don't think it is any better, was what the previous owner had, got the rest of his case and have been using it since. I change my oil every 3000 miles and feel like a dork taking it to the recycler, it looks just the same coming out as it does going in! I rationalized the changes just for the peace of mind factor.

I am thinking about dumping my used oil in my Toyota pickup and driving it the rest of the 7000 miles the oil should last, anyone else do this?
 
I see no performance gain in anything over what the manufacturer specs. $$$$'s of dollars spent engineering the fine product so who can question their recommendations? That said, I 'choose' to utilize an Amzoil synthetic in both of my performance cars. The NSX is a high revving motor with lesser power and the GNX is a lower revving motor with substantially more power. I've had good wear and tear for years using the Amzoil product and simply prefer to continue with it's use for my rides. :D
 
A slight off topic but still related to motor oil. I was reading a local newspaper and saw an article on FilterMag.

I have heard of people using a magnetic drain plug to trap metal particles. This device wraps around the oil filter to trap all the metal particles, down to 1 micron that would pass through filters.

It may be another one of those gadgets like to Tornados, or connect a magnet on a shower head to make soft water. But the concept of FilterMag is simple. A one time $57 sounds like a good "peace of mind" investment.

What do you all think?
 
Hmmm why didn't I think of that?

How about the FRM cylinder liners? Or other moving parts inside the engine? Being a non-techie, I don't know what material the other moving parts are made out of. Don't even know if FRM (fibre re-enforced metal?) sticks to magnets or not.

Please allow me to get even further off topic. Would this gadget work on an iron block engine?
 
Rod bearings are usually copper... aluminum block... the pistons are titanium.. (you've got a problem there if pieces are coming off them)..... I have the spoon drain plug... and if you've ever blown up an engine (h22) you'd see that although the drain plug is great conceptually... but it really doesn't do much for us since nothing would really stick to it.

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