WOODY said:
See, you're smart. You did some basic work that will go a long way in preserving your motor under boost. Sounds like it can handle an arsenic enema.
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500 mile impression of my Lovefab Turbo
- Thread starter brandonsan
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See, you're smart. You did some basic work that will go a long way in preserving your motor under boost. Sounds like it can handle an arsenic enema.
brandonson said:
Good deal. Smart engine upgrades. I agree that 600HP is about as far as you want to take it not only to preserve the rest of the drivetrain but that's probably a good limit for the entire car as well. Of course you can attain higher HP numbers but after a certain level the car goes from a finely balanced one to a hairtrigger, undriveable piece of shit like that Lingenfelter C6 with 1000HP.
Hugh said:
I agree, I do not think I would enjoy it above 600 RWHP. I think the targa chassis would become very un predictable with that kind of power. I know I am going to get flamed for this comment but it's the truth. If I were drag racing most of the time I would go for 900 + but it is still just a "fun street car" for me and that's all it will ever be for me.
brandonson said:
Drag racing is for fags. For God's sake even Hellen Keller could drag race. It's all about the handling. Real men road race. Got news for you, with 600HP you've crossed well beyond the threshold of "fun street car".
A Saturn Sky is a fun street car. A 600HP NSX is a world class exotic in the top 1% percentile of the car world.
Hugh said:Drag racing is for fags. For God's sake even Hellen Keller could drag race. It's all about the handling. Real men road race. Got news for you, with 600HP you've crossed well beyond the threshold of "fun street car".
Helen can drag, but she has been banned from Glamis
I am hoping that the "Basic" upgrades of piston, siamese sleeve will support a 500 rwhp system. I do not have arp head bolts or any upgraded head gasket or rods. We shall see! I expect 500 to be on the line between frightening and auxilarating. shouldnt need more than that(I hope)
Hugh said:
So So True... You all better stock up on Trannies...:biggrin:
Transmissions,, Hugh.:smile:
len3.8 said:
HAHA
len3.8 said:
You heard the rumor about him and DocL:biggrin:
brandonson said:
Congrats on your new boosted NSX, always good to have another member in the boosted family! Making it live at 650rwhp on pump gas with that turbo would be pretty tough, just go with the built motor and the 42R
Have fun, and watch out for some of the EVOs, we have one out here running 9's@142mph in street trim. Happy boosting:biggrin:- Joined
- 19 November 2002
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I believe anything over 550whp on a nsx will be too much for the car....unless you have superior suspension...like the GT-cars...if you gonna road race it, be sure to find a suitable turbo to...something that won't have the tires spinning all the time, but again spool smoothly...unlike the single supra monsters.
I'm guessing the price range for the complete boosted nsx is going to be around 20k in parts and labor?!...not including suspension and brakes, but from clutch on up.
I'm guessing the price range for the complete boosted nsx is going to be around 20k in parts and labor?!...not including suspension and brakes, but from clutch on up.
I'm still stock on the oil system Does your turbocharger smoke or burn oil? If there is no oil tank, oil might back out to turbine and might smoke oil on high rpms going up hill etc... What brand is the oil pump? I might be totally wrong but I'm just trying to understand the logics behind not using a oil tank.
The reason I ask, because I'm turbocharged for 2years now and the most problems I seen in the long run was the oil system. I drive my beast every day to work and back and put down 420hp/360tq, but the oil system is on my head every day. Turbocharger will turn oil black within 1,500 miles if it is not routed well.
Thanks,
Dave
Does your turbocharger smoke or burn oil? If there is no oil tank, oil might back out to turbine and might smoke oil on high rpms going up hill etc... What brand is the oil pump? I might be totally wrong but I'm just trying to understand the logics behind not using a oil tank.The reason I ask, because I'm turbocharged for 2years now and the most problems I seen in the long run was the oil system. I drive my beast every day to work and back and put down 420hp/360tq, but the oil system is on my head every day. Turbocharger will turn oil black within 1,500 miles if it is not routed well.
Thanks,
Dave
Alittleboost said:
I am just curios to why you would think this?
Because you control the boost, by dialing it in for the circumstance, you control the throttle with your foot, all you have to do is get used to the car's mannerisms and drive the dang thing. I have absolutely no problem with driving mine on the street or the track.
len3.8 said:
The clutch has everything to do with driveability.
len3.8 said:
I've got everything under control.
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len3.8 said:
The reason why I think this is because, if you mash the throttle with a large turbo out of a tight corner on the track your gonna spool and spin...I use to have a turbo type-R....and it just spun everywhere with a t3/t4. I'm just saying that those guys that want 550+whp....are going to have a problem with grip, its going to be hard and expensive to find a right sized turbo to spool evenly through out the power ban....for example if you ever looked at a supra with a T-88...that thing would be ridiculus for a track car going around corners. I'm just saying might as well go with a smaller turbo that will reach your goal of hp, allowing a smooth spool through out the band...instead of spooling at 5k rpm and sky-rocketing. I used to get rocked comming out of corners against all-motor type-R's...the would be able to mash the throttle and grip while I had to ease it in and flucuate my right foot from keeping it from spinning...true i would walk them in the straight...but there on my ass again in the corners.
Overall...if my goal was 500whp, i would go with a smaller turbo boosting 12-17psi using its effieceintcy range...than a large one only boost 6psi and spooling later in the power band...of course there are going to be trade offs but a smooth power band is what i would want.
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winreboot said:I'm still stock on the oil system
The reason I ask, because I'm turbocharged for 2years now and the most problems I seen in the long run was the oil system. I drive my beast every day to work and back and put down 420hp/360tq, but the oil system is on my head every day. Turbocharger will turn oil black within 1,500 miles if it is not routed well.
Thanks,
Dave
Lovefab's oil supply and return system is second to none. I remember talking to Cody about one of his high mileage testing runs - a trip that totaled 5500 miles on the kit with a race track visit half way through. Upon changing his oil after the trip, the condition of the oil was perfect and there was no loss of oil.
His NSX has 110,000 miles on the motor.
I would hang around the S2000 forums and the Lovefab turbo kit is the finest kit, atleast from my research, that is made for the car(although its probably a nice duel between Lovefab and Full race).
It is a full, full kit with everything for the S2000 at a reasonable price(considering what it has) and hopefully things will go the same for the NSX kit.
It is a full, full kit with everything for the S2000 at a reasonable price(considering what it has) and hopefully things will go the same for the NSX kit.
Are S2000 motors as sensitive to boost an NSX motors, i.e an open deck design?
Anyone ever hear of these guys? http://www.cgperformance.com/honda_closed_deck_block.htm
Anyone ever hear of these guys? http://www.cgperformance.com/honda_closed_deck_block.htm
Hugh said:
They are open deck but the WHOLE engine is a sturdier (forged pistons, thick forged rods etc.)powerplant than the NSX engine. You can get 500 RWHP pretty easily with a low compression head gasket on a stock engine. On the other hand transmissions and differentials are ticking timebombs with anything over 400 RWHP.
Yeah, right. No it wasn't me but I was on Crain highway Saturday. I had a STI try and race me but that was over pretty quick.
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mrsteve said:
How did they know it was a turbo? These kids these days could not hear a turbo spool up on a car 5 inches from their own car with the coffee can muffler or open exhaust with a 8000 watt Kraco amp sitting loose in the trunk. Maybe when they lost the NSX caught up at the next light and said " My car has a turbo and you busted my ass with your "My Name is Earl" edition Lude"!
quick Q
Why are we sleving the engines again? Talked to my engine teacher and he said sleving is suppose to weaken the engine even if you use special super duper strength sleves.
His explaination is that the head pulls on the top end and the crank pulls from the bottom and apparently this pull-pull force is a no no. Due to the removal of materials from the block the pull force would cause engine fatigue and problems.
The interferance fit of the sleves against the cylinder walls apparently does not account for anything.
From what i learned, the only reason a engine should be sleved is if the cylinder walls has been really messed up or the engine has been bored out too much either though to many rebuilds or other factors and the saving grace of what would be a junk block is to bore it out and slam in some sleves to salvage the block to OEM specs.
Also with the open deak, i see the magic in bracing it but compaired to the open deck design, the closed deck or open deck inserts have very small passages to let coolant pass...... would that over heat the engine or cause any other issues? Also since the material for the brace is not spot on, would the difference in temperature during cooling and heating up cause warpage?
Is there anyway to achave a close deck with bigger holes or would that compermise structural integraty too much?
Tahnks:smile:
Why are we sleving the engines again? Talked to my engine teacher and he said sleving is suppose to weaken the engine even if you use special super duper strength sleves.
His explaination is that the head pulls on the top end and the crank pulls from the bottom and apparently this pull-pull force is a no no. Due to the removal of materials from the block the pull force would cause engine fatigue and problems.
The interferance fit of the sleves against the cylinder walls apparently does not account for anything.
From what i learned, the only reason a engine should be sleved is if the cylinder walls has been really messed up or the engine has been bored out too much either though to many rebuilds or other factors and the saving grace of what would be a junk block is to bore it out and slam in some sleves to salvage the block to OEM specs.
Also with the open deak, i see the magic in bracing it but compaired to the open deck design, the closed deck or open deck inserts have very small passages to let coolant pass...... would that over heat the engine or cause any other issues? Also since the material for the brace is not spot on, would the difference in temperature during cooling and heating up cause warpage?
Is there anyway to achave a close deck with bigger holes or would that compermise structural integraty too much?
Tahnks:smile:
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