Any potential issues here?

[chewybaca96]

I'm planning to replace my stock suspension shortly with the BC Racing Coilovers with Swift springs. Right now I have a 19/18 set up with 275/30ZR19 and 215/35ZR18 tires. This will be my first suspension job on the NSX partially due to the fact that I'm getting tire rub on the fronts. The expectation is with the adjustable coilovers, I'll be able to stop the rubbing in the front. Just wanted to throw this out to the suspension experts here to see if you see any potential issues with this setup or if all sounds good to go.

 

[jwmelvin]

I don't see how coilovers will solve rub that occurs with a stock suspension. I just put the same BC setup on my car and it helped because I could raise it from where it was.

 

[chewybaca96]

I don't see how coilovers will solve rub that occurs with a stock suspension. I just put the same BC setup on my car and it helped because I could raise it from where it was.

Not necessarily the fact of coilovers, but the fact that they are adjustable, just as you mentioned for your car. Sorry if there was some confusion in my wording.

 

[jwmelvin]

Yes, but that would imply that you are trying to raise the car from its position with the stock suspension. With most coilovers, I don't believe that is possible. They generally start around or a bit lower than stock, and go lower from there. What are the offsets on your wheels? That will let those in the know around here give you the right advice. Your front tires only lose 4mm of radial clearance compared to the stock size, so I suspect your issue is offset; that's the issue I have, as a result of fitting over my big brakes.

 

[chewybaca96]

With a little finagling of a mirror, a light and my camera, offset is 40mm.

http://imgur.com/sh8GrKH

 

[jwmelvin]

Do you know the wheel width?

 

[stuntman]

What is the tire rubbing and when does it rub?

 

[chewybaca96]

Do you know the wheel width?

jwmelven, I can get that later. It's also printed inside the wheel spokes if I remember correctly.

What is the tire rubbing and when does it rub?

stuntman, it rubs if I'm going through a dip and turning. It rubs on the inside front as well as the outside front of the tire. On the passenger side it's rubbed through the wheel well liner where it meets the fender, not quite hitting the fender though. I can take some pictures of that as well. It also rubs/bottoms out if I hit a decent bump or pot hole in the road. The passenger front is the worst. Either way I plan to change the suspension out due to that, but I would like to be able to lift it slightly by adjustment. If the BC is not capable of that I can go a different route.

 

[stuntman]

You might have to remove your liners anyway when running a tire that large. Are you on stock suspension or lowered bilsteins?

 

[chewybaca96]

Do you know the wheel width?

jwmelvin, wheel size is 18x8. Please see this gallery. http://imgur.com/a/qmBbl

You might have to remove your liners anyway when running a tire that large. Are you on stock suspension or lowered bilsteins?

stuntman, stock suspension. See gallery: http://imgur.com/a/qmBbl

 

[stuntman]

Coilovers will do nothing to reduce the rubbing on the front part of the inner fender well. I'm not sure the adjustment range of the BCs, but you could possibly run near stock ride height and the reduced travel and higher spring rates may prevent or reduce rubbing the top of the inner fender well over bumps.

Its probably best to remove the inner fender liner all together and bend the tabs so your tire will not rub the outer tabs on the metal fender.

 

[chewybaca96]

Coilovers will do nothing to reduce the rubbing on the front part of the inner fender well. I'm not sure the adjustment range of the BCs, but you could possibly run near stock ride height and the reduced travel and higher spring rates may prevent or reduce rubbing the top of the inner fender well over bumps.

Its probably best to remove the inner fender liner all together and bend the tabs so your tire will not rub the outer tabs on the metal fender.

I actually just had the same conversation with the place I plan to buy the suspension from. Earlier today he said he was going to reach out to his BC guy and talk over this. He did mention they could technically do a custom job that would give a higher ride height, but the difference in spring rate from stock to the BC with swift springs should keep the rub from happening.

Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm going to go ahead and order them with 10/10 spring rate and see where I stand after the install.

 

[stuntman]

I think you will still rub until you remove the liners. Keep us posted.

 

[docjohn]

I actually just had the same conversation with the place I plan to buy the suspension from. Earlier today he said he was going to reach out to his BC guy and talk over this. He did mention they could technically do a custom job that would give a higher ride height, but the difference in spring rate from stock to the BC with swift springs should keep the rub from happening.

Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm going to go ahead and order them with 10/10 spring rate and see where I stand after the install.

If I were you I'd order 8 kg/mm rears

 

[Jinks]

I have BC coilovers with 18/19 with the same tire set up. The fronts are adjusted as high as possible and I also smack my fender liner on dips if I am at a speed higher then 50 mph plus I am on almost a full hard setting. The problem with the BC coilovers is the shock is way shorter then the Oem strut. The coilovers do handle way better then Oem but the rebound on these coilovers is something that I do not care for. But then again, you may have excellent roads where you live, I do not.
The BC coilovers are a good starting coilover and will cure your rubbing on full lock but you won't cure the fender liner rubbing. Hope that helps you decide. If I had to do it all over again, I would have saved my money and got the kw's

 

[chewybaca96]

I have BC coilovers with 18/19 with the same tire set up. The fronts are adjusted as high as possible and I also smack my fender liner on dips if I am at a speed higher then 50 mph plus I am on almost a full hard setting. The problem with the BC coilovers is the shock is way shorter then the Oem strut. The coilovers do handle way better then Oem but the rebound on these coilovers is something that I do not care for. But then again, you may have excellent roads where you live, I do not.
The BC coilovers are a good starting coilover and will cure your rubbing on full lock but you won't cure the fender liner rubbing. Hope that helps you decide. If I had to do it all over again, I would have saved my money and got the kw's

HAHA Good roads in Salt Lake City? Not a chance. I spent a couple years out where you are and in most areas you have much better roads, though that was 15 years ago. We get snow/ice that tears up the roads so you can't really go anywhere without hitting several bad spots.

The KW's are definitely a bit more pricey. Can you give me some specifics on why you would go with them other than the obvious fact that they are a better system? I don't plan to really track it other than maybe a couple times a year on a casual track day out at the Miller track. Mainly I just want to replace stock, have a better system and maybe reduce the rubbing if not eliminate it.

 

[Jinks]

HAHA Good roads in Salt Lake City? Not a chance. I spent a couple years out where you are and in most areas you have much better roads, though that was 15 years ago. We get snow/ice that tears up the roads so you can't really go anywhere without hitting several bad spots.

The KW's are definitely a bit more pricey. Can you give me some specifics on why you would go with them other than the obvious fact that they are a better system? I don't plan to really track it other than maybe a couple times a year on a casual track day out at the Miller track. Mainly I just want to replace stock, have a better system and maybe reduce the rubbing if not eliminate it.

First things first, as I am sure someone who loves BC coilovers will tell me I am wrong. I am just giving you my opinions of such.
When I installed the BC coilovers, the shock was so much shorter then the Oem shock that when I lowered the car the left wheel went right and the right wheel went left. I had to adjust the toe links just to get it to drive. On to the test drive, some of the strut locking nuts were lose and clunking. Easy fix. I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted but still did not feel compliance from the coilovers. Yes they are stiff but I still bottom out on potholes at a high speed, I have the cracked fenders to prove this. So I am running just about five clicks from full hard on the 10/10 spring rates. It handles very well but what it does terribly is rebound. Hit a rough road and you "will" be bouncing like a 64 impala. Are they worth the 900$ yes they are. But just like you, the kw's were just a bit out of reach at the time. But in all fairness, they did what I bought them to do, replace the blown oem shocks and make the car drivable. But it still costed me two slightly cracked fenders and I am all the way up in the front. The rears have zero issue as do all suspension for our cars. The front wheel wells in an nsx as smaller then a starving figure skater and larger wheels just complicate the issue. The kw's are priced high for a reason. They are researched, developed, and tested. Hope this helps. If you still go with BC I recommend removing your front fender liners.
AJ

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View attachment 122631





This is my car on the same wheel and tire sizes on BC coilovers on the highest perch up front. Fyi, I am on my 3rd front lip which is Oem

 

[chewybaca96]

First things first, as I am sure someone who loves BC coilovers will tell me I am wrong. I am just giving you my opinions of such.
When I installed the BC coilovers, the shock was so much shorter then the Oem shock that when I lowered the car the left wheel went right and the right wheel went left. I had to adjust the toe links just to get it to drive. On to the test drive, some of the strut locking nuts were lose and clunking. Easy fix. I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted but still did not feel compliance from the coilovers. Yes they are stiff but I still bottom out on potholes at a high speed, I have the cracked fenders to prove this. So I am running just about five clicks from full hard on the 10/10 spring rates. It handles very well but what it does terribly is rebound. Hit a rough road and you "will" be bouncing like a 64 impala. Are they worth the 900$ yes they are. But just like you, the kw's were just a bit out of reach at the time. But in all fairness, they did what I bought them to do, replace the blown oem shocks and make the car drivable. But it still costed me two slightly cracked fenders and I am all the way up in the front. The rears have zero issue as do all suspension for our cars. The front wheel wells in an nsx as smaller then a starving figure skater and larger wheels just complicate the issue. The kw's are priced high for a reason. They are researched, developed, and tested. Hope this helps. If you still go with BC I recommend removing your front fender liners.
AJ

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View attachment 122631





This is my car on the same wheel and tire sizes on BC coilovers on the highest perch up front. Fyi, I am on my 3rd front lip which is Oem

It won't let me open the attachment.

 

[Jinks]

It won't let me open the attachment.

try this one.View attachment 122632

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^^^ What you see here, is the highest possible setting of the BC coilovers with 18in up front running a 215/35/18.
It leaves about a 1.5 inches of travel in the shock before it makes contact with the fender liner and shatters your delicate aluminum can fender.

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Another shot.View attachment 122633

 

[chewybaca96]

try this one.View attachment 122632

- - - Updated - - -

^^^ What you see here, is the highest possible setting of the BC coilovers with 18in up front running a 215/35/18.
It leaves about a 1.5 inches of travel in the shock before it makes contact with the fender liner and shatters your delicate aluminum can fender.

- - - Updated - - -

Another shot.View attachment 122633

Ok cool. I can see the first picture but not the second. From the looks of it you have more clearance than I currently do. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post a link to it with a good close up of the clearance from my tire to fender. I'll grab a measurement too. Thanks for the update.

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If I were you I'd order 8 kg/mm rears

doc, can you give me some input on why you would go with 8kg in the rear? Suspension is not my forte and I'm open to all input. I'd just like to make a decision on pro's and cons, so I'd appreciate your reasoning.

 

[jwmelvin]

The 10/8 spring-rate ratio is what the NSX-R used, I believe. So a number of us have used that for our coilovers.

 

[docjohn]

10/10 combo all other parameters being the same tends twords over-steer,or loose.

 

[stuntman]

1.5" of shock travel or travel at the tire before it hits your liner? Why not remove the plastic liner?

 

[docjohn]

Billy I'm not a fan of removing the liner because when I did it in a week I had a nice reverse ding on my aluminum fender panel.If folks do it i would recommend some spray-on goop to protect the metal.

 

[stuntman]

^That's one way of doing it... I really need to finish my inner liner design which will fix all of these problems... Just difficult when my car is on the other side of the country. Anyone in South Florida want to lend their car for a week for development?