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Battery Drain, any ideas ?

Joined
11 June 2010
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317
I have a 2005 NSX and I purchased a new battery in June 2013. I pretty much treat it like a garage queen for the most part. I only drive it on nice days, otherwise it sits in the garage under a cover. I used a battery tender over the winter and about two weeks ago, I took it off the tender and started it for the first time this year. I went out yesterday and the battery was dead . I did not leave anything such as lights,radio,etc. on that I am aware of. Any idea why the battery would go flat after only a couple of weeks? The battery I purchased last June was supposed to be a top of the line battery. I thought I may go and have it tested to see if I just have a bad battery. Any ideas?<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
 
There's normally a parasitic drain to keep the alarm working, the radio presets active, etc. Left uncharged, two weeks is borderline for a battery to start an NSX. Under two weeks, and it should start fine. Over two weeks, and it probably won't start.

I always put mine on the charger any time it would sit for more than a week.
 
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I agree with Ken, on my 02, when new, if I let it sit 2 weeks, it needed a jump. Once I kept it on the CTEK, I got 9 years on the OEM battery, and replaced it before it gave out. The replacement battery is still going strong. I keep both of the toys on CTEK's year round. When I'm using a car over the weekend, I leave it off, otherwise, always on the charger.
 
Thanks for the info guys. It does not sound like I have a problem. I guess this is normal for the car. I have only had it for 10 months and did not realize NSX's had such a seemingly large parasitic drain. I can't remember any other car I have owned that would not start after sitting for only two weeks.<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
 
If you think two weeks is too short then measure your parasitic drain.
Once you have the number you can calculate how long your battery will last before needing a charge
 
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but is it possible to disable the radio? I never ever listen to it anyways, so if I could remove a fuse to reduce the battery drain, I would. Ditto for the alarm. I never lock the doors anyways. Is there a way to turn it off? And the clock, I never look at it. Can it be disabled?
 
I got some new battery terminals. One has a knob you turn and it disconnects the battery from the car without having to remove it. Very useful.
 
I love the car and can live with keeping it on the charger, but two weeks and the battery will go dead. Wow, that just seems like a huge parasitic loss. My truck can sit for what seems like a couple of months and just fire right up. <object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object>
 
I got some new battery terminals. One has a knob you turn and it disconnects the battery from the car without having to remove it. Very useful.

True, however make sure you do not need to go the inspection before you run 100+ miles without disconnecting it, since your ODBII will not be ready;)

Regards,
LarryB
 
The nsx drain is 40 to 65 mA, a normal car battery has a 40 Ah rating so at 65 mA that comes out to about 25 days. 40Ah/.065A/24. You would think you would get more then 2 weeks but amp/hour ratings are very dependant on the discharge rate.
 
Does anyone not think it strange that putting a new battery into the NSX introduced a problem that didn't exist beforehand? The exact same thing happened to me. I used to leave my car sit for weeks or even months at a time and it would start just fine without needing a tender. Then my mechanic said I needed a new battery during an oil change, so I put in a top of line expensive one. Then, three weeks later, the NSX would not start and I had to get AAA out to jump start me (since I wasn't able to succeed using my wife's car). Long story short, I had to get a tender and pretty much keep the car on it full time otherwise the new battery would go dead after 2-3 weeks.
 
Does anyone not think it strange that putting a new battery into the NSX introduced a problem that didn't exist beforehand?
No, not when the new battery needs charging after roughly the same time as most other NSX's do. The strange thing to me is that you claim your car could sit for months without charging and still start the car, when no one else has had that experience (at least, not unless they disconnect the battery so that there is no drain from the alarm system and other electronics in the car).
 
Makes sense to me. Car batteries are designed to deliver large current for a short time and are sold on how big its CCA rating is. Making a battery that is good at starting makes it less good at a long slow drain. You could go to a deep cycle battery and get much better life sitting.
 
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My 97 is having battery drain issues after sitting for a week. So I wanted to see if anyone had ideas. Here is what I tried so far.

1. Took the battery to Oreilly and Batteries Plus. It passed the voltage and load tests at both places.
2. Put it back in the car and wired in my multimeter to measure current. It showed that the draw was ~35 mA. Based on BrianK's post above I do not think that I have an unusual current draw. I do not turn the alarm on when I have it in the garage, but the current was still 35 mA even with the alarm activated.
3. I pulled fuses from all three boxes and did not notice any changes more than a couple mA.
4. Removed the multimeter from the battery and started the car. Let it idle for about 20 minutes. Voltage at the battery was 14.7V even with the radio, headlights, defroster, and AC on. So, I believe that alternator is working.
5. Turned the car off and checked the current draw again. It was still 35mA.

This all leads me to believe that the battery is bad even though its passing the auto store tests. Does anyone else have any other ideas? It is a 5 year warranty Interstate battery that is about 4 years old, so I am going to take it into the local Interstate dealer in town. I keep it on a tender in the garage, but the car does sit in the garage a lot. I know that sitting is not great for batteries, so maybe the recent cold pushed over the edge.
 
I
keep it on a tender in the garage, but the car does sit in the garage a lot. I know that sitting is not great for batteries, so maybe the recent cold pushed over the edge.

Sitting is not bad for lead acid storage batteries. Mine has sat for about 5 months per year disconnected / no tender without issue since 2012. Sitting with a load connected which drains the battery and causes it to go through a deeper charge cycle is bad. If the tender is large enough to supply the parasitic loads (all 35 ma of it) and correctly regulated the battery should float and be indifferent to the parasitic loads.

You didn't specifically say it; but, I presume that your battery drain issues led to a non start situation? Did that occur with the battery on the tender? If so, that suggest a problem with the tender.

In addition to the parasitic loads of the integrated control unit, clock stereo and the security unit, the ECU has keep alive power for fuel trims and error codes and the ABS, EPS, TCS all probably have keep alive power for there error codes. The earlier suggestion about disconnecting things to eliminate the parasitic loads is probably not practical. The parasitic current you measured seems reasonable so it does not seem like you have a short anywhere.

I 'think' the battery in my car is the one intended for the automatic (I forget the group number). The reason I say think is that the battery in the car expired about a year after I bought the car, so I took the battery into a battery shop to be recycled. They asked me for the application and brought out a battery significantly smaller than what I was recycling. I said ' No just give me one that's the same as what I brought in'. Hence my uncertainty about the actual group number on my battery. Short story, I have let the car sit for three + weeks in temperatures down to 0C without having starting issues and without using a tender. It has been like that since 2012. I also have a keyless entry system which increases the parasitic load. When the car is in the garage I don't lock it. I do use Mobil 1 which has a lower pour point than conventional oils which may ease the starting burden on the battery.

If you want to extend the cars sitting time, consider switching to the slightly larger battery used in the automatic version of the NSX. There may also be slightly larger batteries that will fit in the holder - there are sizing guides for the various group numbers on the web and you could work through the list to see what fits. The battery I purchased from the battery shop was their house brand, nothing special and not expensive. You could also try Brian K's idea and seek out a battery designed for deep cycle operation.
 
Thanks [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION]. It was drained to the point where the car would not start and the voltmeter in the gauge cluster showed ~8 volts after a week. I started fine when I jumped it from the fuse panel in the back. It did go dead while plugged into a 1.25A battery tender. I did consider the possibility that the tender is going bad since the light on the tender never switched from maintenance mode to charging mode even though the battery was dead. I am going to replace it with a 5A tender.
 
Battery Sizes:
Manual Transmission: Group 35, 640 CCA, 50 Ah
9-9/16\" x 6-3/4\" x 7-3/4\" (243 x 171 x 197 mm) ~ 40 lb
Automatic Transmission: Group 24F, 710 CCA, 55 Ah,
10-3/4\" x 6-7/8\" x 8\" (273 x 173 x 203 mm) ~ 42.5 lb
Zanardi (& CRV): Group 51R, 500 CCA, 45 Ah,
9-5/16\" x 4-15/16\" x 8-5/8\" (237 x 125 x 219 mm) ~ 31.5 lb
Weights are for my favourite Canadian Tire AGM (5 year non-prorated warranty). So if your NSX sits a lot, @Old Guy's 24F is 2.5 lb of cheap insurance. Both my NSX's came "upgraded" to the 51R; 2-3 weeks & it needs a trickle charge to start.
 
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