Also wrap your axle boot with a thick towel or something similar so you don't tear the boots or removal of the struts.
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BC Racing Coilovers - Comprehensive Review
- Thread starter Honcho
- Start date
If I remember correctly... Once I had the wheel speed sensor wire and bracket loose (as you have) I was able to do it. Make sure the shock is lifted as high as it will go (against top mount) while the brake rotor is pushed down on has hard as you can, and the bottom of the shock should slip out toward the rotor (like yours is starting to) then backwards toward rear of car. Once it is behind the lower arm you can finish unbolting the top mount (I'd left one nut partially threaded to hold it up) so the shock will drop down for removal.
People also say you can remove the rear bolt on the upper A-arm. I was unable to use this method because the brake line bracket that is welded to the chassis blocked the bolt from coming all the way out (so I unbolted the speed speed sensor wire and went with that method).
This thread is helpful:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/140474-shock-removel-help-please
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I had more trouble removing the OEM suspension compared to a set of Bilsteins because OEM was around an inch longer; it took 2 of us on the 2x4 to pull the a-arms down far enough on the OEM where was 1 was easily enough for the Bilsteins. Thankfully the BC's set to NSX-R ride height are a lot easier to get in because they're so short (by several inches).
On an unrelated note, I weighed the Swift springs at 9.5 lbs vs 15 for the stock BCs (with just a plain bathroom scale so nothing terrible high precision). Just another data point for those of you unsure about that upgrade option. If I measured right, that makes the BCs + Swifts 32.5 lbs vs stock at 69 lbs (that number is from the weight reduction thread so I'm assuming it's just for the damper + spring). I should've compared the stock damper against the BCs side by side when they were both out because that seems like a rather large difference considering.
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Nice, now the easy part is installing the BCs!
I set the bottom height adjustment to the minimum amount of threads (tallest ride height) so the damper body was just showing through those holes in the lower cup that mounts to the a-arm, then lowered the car back down. I then taped a sharp pointed object on top of my OEM car jack, slid it under and adjusted the height until it pointed at the centerline of the bolts the service manual mentioned for measuring height, slid it back out and measured its height with a set of calipers. I think this really helped because the bolts are so far inward that it's really awkward trying to get any other measurement device in, with this way you can sit on the side and slowly adjust the height up, check to see if you're hitting the center line of the bolt from a few different angles, and then take the measurement more accurately from a comfortable position. I'm not sure how others are doing it so maybe there's a better way.
Once I had my measurement I was able to figure out how many millimeters the car needed to drop and adjusted the lock collar up the body by that amount and confirm with the calipers (between the lower cup and the lock collar). From there, just unbolt the bottom of the damper from the a-arm and twist until it meets the collar then lower the car and check your measurements again. If you only need to adjust by a few millimeters you can twist the damper with it completely bolted in still, it's a bit more tiring but quick for small tweaks. Hope that helps and goodluck with the install!
On an unrelated note, I weighed the Swift springs at 9.5 lbs vs 15 for the stock BCs (with just a plain bathroom scale so nothing terrible high precision). Just another data point for those of you unsure about that upgrade option. If I measured right, that makes the BCs + Swifts 32.5 lbs vs stock at 69 lbs (that number is from the weight reduction thread so I'm assuming it's just for the damper + spring). I should've compared the stock damper against the BCs side by side when they were both out because that seems like a rather large difference considering.
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Nice, now the easy part is installing the BCs!
I set the bottom height adjustment to the minimum amount of threads (tallest ride height) so the damper body was just showing through those holes in the lower cup that mounts to the a-arm, then lowered the car back down. I then taped a sharp pointed object on top of my OEM car jack, slid it under and adjusted the height until it pointed at the centerline of the bolts the service manual mentioned for measuring height, slid it back out and measured its height with a set of calipers. I think this really helped because the bolts are so far inward that it's really awkward trying to get any other measurement device in, with this way you can sit on the side and slowly adjust the height up, check to see if you're hitting the center line of the bolt from a few different angles, and then take the measurement more accurately from a comfortable position. I'm not sure how others are doing it so maybe there's a better way.
Once I had my measurement I was able to figure out how many millimeters the car needed to drop and adjusted the lock collar up the body by that amount and confirm with the calipers (between the lower cup and the lock collar). From there, just unbolt the bottom of the damper from the a-arm and twist until it meets the collar then lower the car and check your measurements again. If you only need to adjust by a few millimeters you can twist the damper with it completely bolted in still, it's a bit more tiring but quick for small tweaks. Hope that helps and goodluck with the install!
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I think honcho mentioned it somewhere in this thread. I wrote it down as 156 mm in front and 202 mm in the rear.
I ordered my BC coiliovers with Swift springs. I have not heard anyone talk about camber issues after installing. Did anyone have camber issues after installing these?
- Joined
- 28 November 2009
- Messages
- 997
I think you can do this with TI Dave non compliance rear beam bearing they have a offset hole and allows you to twist to give oem, more or less camber.
For the fronts CT-Engineering does these.
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But what i would like to know is when you lower the car does it have more negative or plus camber?
I think the wheels go in at the top giving you more negative camber but i may be wrong. Does anyone know what camber setting you will be running roughly as you lower the car? I know it will change by how much you lower the car. just like rough a idea.
Ok Thanks, I guess I will see how far it is off after installing and alignment.
- Joined
- 9 July 2006
- Messages
- 611
I finished setting the ride hide to were i like it. However I went for a 10 minute drive and the tires rubbed quite a few times.I'm thinking of raising it a bit again. I have an appointment in the morning for an alignment. If I have it aligned now and decide to raise it later by half and inch will I need to re align it.
It will change your camber settings and therefore other settings as well. Have them set the ride height first before you align it.
- Joined
- 28 November 2009
- Messages
- 997
That's interesting, makes a big difference then.
Honcho, if you did it again would you get 12k/10k or stick with the 10/8 springs.
I love the 10/8 set up with the dampers on 20 towards the firm. It feels like a go kart and very well mannered. I only lowered the car to the type R height and have zero issues with alignment or any accelerated tire wear. That is not to say that if you slam the car that you will be fine alignment wise. I really feel like the car should have always come with the 10/8.
- Joined
- 29 June 2011
- Messages
- 93
where is that measured from?
The factory measurement points discussed here in the service manual:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-and-how-to-do-properly?highlight=ride+height
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-and-how-to-do-properly?highlight=ride+height
Rad! Thanks for the review, my car came with brand new BC's when I got it and I love them. Took me a couple weeks to fine tune my settings for my preference level, now I love the way it rides. Anyone who is interested in these is welcome to scope them out on my 92 when we get together at NSXPO
10/8 for sure. I think this is the best compromise between firmness and comfort. 12/10 probably would ride too stiff for me. Maybe for a dedicated track car.
Remember this is for a NSX on 2002+ factory wheels. I don't know what the heights are for other rims.
Glad to hear you like them. Mine are still going strong and have another track day under their belt.
Thanks Honcho. i'll order the 10/8k swift springs!
Thinking about going with these BC coilovers. Although the standard setup comes with 10kg/10kg springs, I was considering 7kg front / 8kg rear spring rates using Swift springs to maintain the same balance of front to rear spring rates as the pre-97 oem suspension. I'm currently on the stock '94 16"/17" wheels and stock suspension. I'll probably lower the car 1"~1.25" all around. Low enough to look better but not so much that the rear camber can't be brought into spec.
Question: Is 7kg/8kg too soft? I'll probably never track the car, where I live has crappy roads and I want a nice compliant ride.
Question: Is 7kg/8kg too soft? I'll probably never track the car, where I live has crappy roads and I want a nice compliant ride.
As noted those rates are stiffer than stock- closer to the Type-S. But the big monotube shock in the BC is much smoother than the stock dampers, so it will probably end up just as plush.
