I go to put down my windows and nothing happens. I check all the fuses and switch the relay under the front hood and they are all good.Are there any other fuses or relays besides under the front hood?? I just had both regulators rebuilt and put in maybe 5 months ago..When i had the regulators put in they told me the passenger switch onthe drivers side only worked going down but i couldnt put the passenger window up from drivers side.But on the passenger side switch worked fine going up and down.Do you think maybe its the switches or is there a hidden relay somewhere.I hate pulling off my door panels and would rather not.Any suggestions???
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Both windows wont go up or down.Need help..
- Thread starter RON300R
- Start date
I know if the driver swith is not connected the windows (from either side) don't work. Sounds like you may have a bad driver switch. Just an hunch
It sounds like you may have a faulty drivers door switch that finally just failed. These switchs are quite simple. I have disassembled them and cleaned the contacts and reinstall for a fully functional operation.
You may have to remove the drivers door panel. See if the wire connector to the switch has become disconnected from the switch. These connectors are stiff to seat. This could be a cheap fix. If not see if someone close has another drivers switch, known to work, you could use for trouble shooting.
Brad
You may have to remove the drivers door panel. See if the wire connector to the switch has become disconnected from the switch. These connectors are stiff to seat. This could be a cheap fix. If not see if someone close has another drivers switch, known to work, you could use for trouble shooting.
Brad
I also believe it to be a bad drivers side window switch. If that is not it. Then it could be just something that did not get reconnected when the regulators were installed. check your connections as well as make sure everything is clean and there is no corrosion.
Thanks for the help. I will check the switch out this week. I seen on another post that the 91-95 legend is the same switch. Does anyone know if this is true. The other post said it was but there were some that said it wasnt has anyone ever put a window switch from a legend in there nsx?Does anyone know where I can buy the switch. The dealer wants $286 for just 1 window switch..Thanks again guys for your help.
Same thing happened to my Integra. Switch went bad and windows didnt work.
Ok, I had this happen just this afternoon. Windows rolled up just fine in the morning. Came outside after work and they wouldn't move at all.
So far I have:
-Checked all the fuses & swapped the relay with a known-good relay -- This did not fix the problem.
-Took the door panel off and completed the continuity checks on the driver's door switch. Although this switch is a bit ghetto-looking, It appears to pass this test.
Performed the ICU tests on page 23-164.
Power Window Key-off Timer System.
1,2,&3 worked find as far as I can tell. 6 failed.
That involved connecting terminal A9 & A14, at which point "power windows should operate". They didn't.
I then was able to confirm continuity between A9 and the relay seat, and continuity from the relay seat to G201. I was not able to find continuity between A14 and the relay seat however. I'm no pro at reading a wiring diagram, so could someone confirm if this should be the case in the first place?
I find it hard to believe that a wire that doesn't use the door loom could just up and develop a break.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
So far I have:
-Checked all the fuses & swapped the relay with a known-good relay -- This did not fix the problem.
-Took the door panel off and completed the continuity checks on the driver's door switch. Although this switch is a bit ghetto-looking, It appears to pass this test.
Performed the ICU tests on page 23-164.
Power Window Key-off Timer System.
1,2,&3 worked find as far as I can tell. 6 failed.
That involved connecting terminal A9 & A14, at which point "power windows should operate". They didn't.
I then was able to confirm continuity between A9 and the relay seat, and continuity from the relay seat to G201. I was not able to find continuity between A14 and the relay seat however. I'm no pro at reading a wiring diagram, so could someone confirm if this should be the case in the first place?
I find it hard to believe that a wire that doesn't use the door loom could just up and develop a break.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Ok, nevermind I was trying the wrong relay terminal with A14 last night.
So I think I am back to the switch.
I still have a queston though. In my efforts to prove it is the switch, I tried operating the windows by just jumpering the plug that goes into the switch, but I have yet to accomplish this. I have connected the sockets described in the service manual....so unless they changed sometheing between 91 (year of the manual) and 92 (year of my car) then I am stumped again.
So I think I am back to the switch.
I still have a queston though. In my efforts to prove it is the switch, I tried operating the windows by just jumpering the plug that goes into the switch, but I have yet to accomplish this. I have connected the sockets described in the service manual....so unless they changed sometheing between 91 (year of the manual) and 92 (year of my car) then I am stumped again.
As I reply to myself....:tongue:
My problem was a break in the ground wire that goes between the power windows and power mirrors through the door harness and grounds at G401/G402 (bolts to body of the car behind the fuze block behind the driver's kick panel.
I have no idea where it broke because I was not inclined to cut open the wire bundle purely because I was curious. I think I have premature rigormortis in my hands as it is from messing with the rubber gromets between the door and car.
Solution: Ran a new ground wire from a convenient point that worked well when I tested it and grounded it to the body in close proximity to where it was grounded originally.
Both windows now work.
My problem was a break in the ground wire that goes between the power windows and power mirrors through the door harness and grounds at G401/G402 (bolts to body of the car behind the fuze block behind the driver's kick panel.
I have no idea where it broke because I was not inclined to cut open the wire bundle purely because I was curious. I think I have premature rigormortis in my hands as it is from messing with the rubber gromets between the door and car.
Solution: Ran a new ground wire from a convenient point that worked well when I tested it and grounded it to the body in close proximity to where it was grounded originally.
Both windows now work.
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