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Brake master cylinder rebuild kit

Joined
21 July 2006
Messages
22
Location
KL, Malaysia
I FOUND a rebuild kit for the NSX brake master cylinder.

I have searched on prime and found that there seemed to be no rebuild kit for the master brake cylinder. There was 1 thread that briefly mentioned that there was a kit some time back but costs too much.

Not sure if there will be any interest in this kit but its worth mentioning that they exist. The kit consists of both the complete primary and secondary pistons, retainer clip and the brake booster rubber seal. So essentially, everything in the master cylinder is replaced except for the outer housing (cylinder body) and reservoir.

The kit costs about US$40.
 
But the time it would take to refresh the MC is not worth it. It's easier to just buy a new MC and install it in 10 minutes.
 
Re: Brake master cylinder rebuild kit $40

Thats what my thoughts were. Anyway, there is no supply of nsx master cylinder here so this is the next best option. Will get some pictures up when I start.
 
I FOUND a rebuild kit for the NSX brake master cylinder.

I have searched on prime and found that there seemed to be no rebuild kit for the master brake cylinder. There was 1 thread that briefly mentioned that there was a kit some time back but costs too much.

Not sure if there will be any interest in this kit but its worth mentioning that they exist. The kit consists of both the complete primary and secondary pistons, retainer clip and the brake booster rubber seal. So essentially, everything in the master cylinder is replaced except for the outer housing (cylinder body) and reservoir.

The kit costs about US$40.


where did you find it, and do you have the Part number??
 
I'm interested in a couple of kits.

Part of my personal reduce, reuse and recycle program. Takes all of 10-20 minutes to rebuild a master if you got the parts.

Silly to discard all that work away and fill up the dumps.

Drew
 
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Here's a little secret... All Honda 1" MC use the same internals. Find a good used one or buy a new one (they are cheaper for the other models) and swap internals.

ie:
USDM 98+ integra
JDM 98+ integra (no swap required, plug and play)
94+ prelude

Enjoy.


Thanks for this info. I will check on it this week.
 
If you do not recondition the bore, it will not last, and you will be doing it again. If it is not too bad it can be honed, but if it is worse, you will need a new one.

My $.02

Regards,
LarryB
 
I remember reading somewhere that you dont honed the master cylinder ?? It needs to be replaced if its bad. If you honed the bore, then it becomes bigger than the seals so that wont work either.

The part I found is from a Japanese parts manufacturer so no part numbers to Honda.

If the all Honda 1" MC use the same internals, can someone get a price on that so I wont get ripped off ?

Thanks !
 
The honing has to be very light. If you have to hone deeply, toss it.

This will become very popular in the years to come:).

BTW, I beleive you can get these parts in Canada as well as Europe.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Ah..... light honing. Now that makes some sense. I remember where I read not to hone the master cylinder. I was going thru the repair manual for the 1981 Honda Prelude trying to put in some repair on my 'classic' !

I am in Malaysia. Need to update that avatar. No nsx master cylinder available here. If there is one, it'll probably cost more than my arm and a leg. If it doesn't, it will likely need honing !
 
would not rebuild a Honda master cylinder.

they have a coating that protects the walls from corrosion of brake fluid. if you hone the walls due to pitting, it removes that coating.

your master cylinder will pit faster and result in brake failure.

your risking a 80000$ car for a savings of 100$.

penny wise, pound foolish.

good luck. :smile:
 
No nsx master cylinder available here. If there is one, it'll probably cost more than my arm and a leg. If it doesn't, it will likely need honing !

try ebay. not having part in your country is a bad excuse of 1/2 assing (excuse my spanish) a job. im sure if a MC is hard to find, it would be even harder to find parts for your crashed up nsx when your "rebuilt" master cylinder fails

good luck. :smile:
 
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+1 on not bothering with rebuilding. Same applies for calipers, not worth the trouble. Been there, done that, won't do it again.
 
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would not rebuild a Honda master cylinder.

they have a coating that protects the walls from corrosion of brake fluid. if you hone the walls due to pitting, it removes that coating.

I was not aware of this. So then for other countries Honda is OK with just popping new seals in?? I know I saw a blow-up of the Master in the Canadian service manual, as well as the clutch master/slave.

Sounds like replacement would be the way to go then.

Regards,
LarryB
 
If I get a new primary piston, secondary piston, seal and retainer, take out the faulty set from the MC then pop in the new set. Would that be good or bad ?
 
I was not aware of this. So then for other countries Honda is OK with just popping new seals in?? I know I saw a blow-up of the Master in the Canadian service manual, as well as the clutch master/slave.

Sounds like replacement would be the way to go then.

Regards,
LarryB

I don't believe there is a coating to protect against corrosion, since it is not necessary. First, aluminum in itself does not 'corrode' like steel. Second, DOT brake fluid does not corrode steel or aluminum as it, in itself prevents corrosion. The only way the system will see corrosion is if moisture is introduced and that moisture is absorbed into the fluid - and we all know how that happens.
 
That makes sense. Brake fluid will corrode the paint on the car body, not the body itself. Be it steel or aluminum. I dont think the brake lines going out of the master cylinder has a coating on the inside. Even if it did, the flared ends would corrode if in fact brake fluids corrode steel or aluminum.

Seach4coupe, could you elaborate on 'been there, done that, wont do it again'. Why, was it that troublesome ? Didnt look that complicated on paper.
 
Seach4coupe, could you elaborate on 'been there, done that, wont do it again'. Why, was it that troublesome ? Didnt look that complicated on paper.

I really would even worry about it. No offense, but most owners here are overly paranoid ;)

Just inspect the bore when you take it apart, you'll know if its bad. It'll be scored/scratched or be pitted where the surface is rough and no longer smooth. General rule of thumb is - if you can feel the scratch with your finger nail, then it needs to be replaced.

Otherwise, throw new seals in it and go :D Really, even if you never took one apart before, you can do it in about 10-15min. Snap ring pliers and an allen wrench is all you need.
 
Seach4coupe, could you elaborate on 'been there, done that, wont do it again'. Why, was it that troublesome ? Didnt look that complicated on paper.

It's not a difficult job. I'm sure you are capable. However, for the extra time and mess involved, I'd just rather buy a rebuilt and slap in in than work on the old one. I've rebuilt both MCs and calipers and I was never happy with the results. Specifically, the rubber boots don't always lay right once there is some corrosion etc in the grooves, the job is messy, the job takes additional time. And, I don't always get it right the first time. My time is too limited to screw around.

A bit off-topic, but I would almost say the same thing about replacing CV boots, but I know the value in preserving OEM axles, so I do go through the trouble in that case.

Good luck in whatever you decide.
 
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