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Busted up WW Lip. Can it be fixed?

Joined
27 October 2006
Messages
4,877
Location
Nor-Cal
Last Friday night I was driving on the highway and I hit something big. Not sure what it was but I heard it go under the car and out the back. So I pulled over and checked the car over, mostly worried about the CF rear diffusor but I had a flashlight and looked around and everything seemed to be in order so I got back in and drove on.

Yesterday I took the car out of the garage to drive to work and I realized my Wings West lip was missing. I guess it was ripped off when I hit that thing on the highway. Well that sucked but today I drove over to the part of the highway where the incident occurred and there on the center emergency area was the lip.

I stopped and picked it up and it appears to have been run over probably by me and maybe a few other cars. But its condition doesn't seem too bad (its still in 1 piece) but it has some large cracks in it and I'm wondering if this can be fixed, sanded and repainted.

If it can be fixed any advice on how to go about it? TIA Pics below








Lip3_zpseb921c97.jpg



Lip1_zps33aed6b3.jpg



Lip2_zps65f365fa.jpg
 
This can be repaired pretty easily. Expect 3-5 hours and $70-100 for supplies assuming you don't already have body work stuff laying around.

Crude summary:

Scuff the damaged portions of the back pretty heavily with 30-50 grit, close the cracks (tape the outside back together) as you well be filling them with resin/fiberglass. Mix finely chopped fiberglass mat with resin and apply to scuffed back of work piece. This should get you back to original shape. When dry, remove tape (only use 3m green btw) and scuff the cracks (120 to 180 grit) making sure to remove paint with bad adhesion also scuff the entire painted work piece with scotch-brite or similar. When satisfied skim coat the cracks with tiger hair (fiberglass strand/resin & body filter mix)...sand, skim filler/ sand and wet sand till perfect surface finish, then prime whole or repaired areas and wet sand again...then ready for paint.

Hope that helps some.
 
This can be repaired pretty easily. Expect 3-5 hours and $70-100 for supplies assuming you don't already have body work stuff laying around.

Crude summary:

Scuff the damaged portions of the back pretty heavily with 30-50 grit, close the cracks (tape the outside back together) as you well be filling them with resin/fiberglass. Mix finely chopped fiberglass mat with resin and apply to scuffed back of work piece. This should get you back to original shape. When dry, remove tape (only use 3m green btw) and scuff the cracks (120 to 180 grit) making sure to remove paint with bad adhesion also scuff the entire painted work piece with scotch-brite or similar. When satisfied skim coat the cracks with tiger hair (fiberglass strand/resin & body filter mix)...sand, skim filler/ sand and wet sand till perfect surface finish, then prime whole or repaired areas and wet sand again...then ready for paint.

Hope that helps some.

Thanks
 
Actually I was thinking of trying to fix it myself and wondering what the process would be.

Step 1: drop it off at Jack's
Step 2: buy Jack donuts
Step 3: buy Jack more donuts
Step 4: pick up finished piece
Step 5: keep Jack in donuts for a few months

:biggrin:

J
 
Step 1: drop it off at Jack's
Step 2: buy Jack donuts
Step 3: buy Jack more donuts
Step 4: pick up finished piece
Step 5: keep Jack in donuts for a few months

:biggrin:

J

Ahhhh....yes. Very good idea. Probably get it back better than new with some cool new design.................
 
Step 1: drop it off at Jack's
Step 2: buy Jack donuts
Step 3: buy Jack more donuts
Step 4: pick up finished piece
Step 5: keep Jack in donuts for a few months

:biggrin:

J

I would very much like to meet this Jack fellow. My car has just had over ten grand of bodywork after an accident and I still don't consider it "done"... maybe Jack can help.
 
This can be repaired pretty easily. Expect 3-5 hours and $70-100 for supplies assuming you don't already have body work stuff laying around.

Crude summary:

Scuff the damaged portions of the back pretty heavily with 30-50 grit, close the cracks (tape the outside back together) as you well be filling them with resin/fiberglass. Mix finely chopped fiberglass mat with resin and apply to scuffed back of work piece. This should get you back to original shape. When dry, remove tape (only use 3m green btw) and scuff the cracks (120 to 180 grit) making sure to remove paint with bad adhesion also scuff the entire painted work piece with scotch-brite or similar. When satisfied skim coat the cracks with tiger hair (fiberglass strand/resin & body filter mix)...sand, skim filler/ sand and wet sand till perfect surface finish, then prime whole or repaired areas and wet sand again...then ready for paint.

Hope that helps some.


Will the fiberglass work and stick? The WW Lip is made of urethane. :confused:
 
Will the fiberglass work and stick? The WW Lip is made of urethane. :confused:

Ive never had good experience trying to use fiberglass to fix plastic or urethane. I would suggest scuffing the hell out of it with 80 grit, and then using panelbond 3M 8115 to repair the crack. You'd be around $35 - $40 per tube of panelbond and the gun for that will run you at least $60... but it wont come apart.
 
This can definitely be repaired, but I wouldn't recommend a novice for this type of damage. Depending on cost of new, I would be able to repair it for you but it would need to be shipped to PA. Let me know if u need any assistance if you take on the repair yourself. Id be more than happy to help in any way possible.
 
...but I wouldn't recommend a novice for this type of damage...

Roger is definitely a novice. I say drop it off to Jack's or get a used one from prime.
 
This can definitely be repaired, but I wouldn't recommend a novice for this type of damage. Depending on cost of new, I would be able to repair it for you but it would need to be shipped to PA. Let me know if u need any assistance if you take on the repair yourself. Id be more than happy to help in any way possible.

Thanks for the offer. I haven't had any time to try and fix it yet but maybe this weekend.
 
It can be repaired but in the end you will wish you bought a new one.

You need to get the proper stuff for repairing urethane with - a semi-rigid bumper repair compound, there are many out there, I like the fusor stuff but have also used duramix too - they are expensive and results are mixed so like I said, bythe time you mess around just buy a new one.
 
This can be repaired pretty easily. Expect 3-5 hours and $70-100 for supplies assuming you don't already have body work stuff laying around.

Crude summary:

Scuff the damaged portions of the back pretty heavily with 30-50 grit, close the cracks (tape the outside back together) as you well be filling them with resin/fiberglass. Mix finely chopped fiberglass mat with resin and apply to scuffed back of work piece. This should get you back to original shape. When dry, remove tape (only use 3m green btw) and scuff the cracks (120 to 180 grit) making sure to remove paint with bad adhesion also scuff the entire painted work piece with scotch-brite or similar. When satisfied skim coat the cracks with tiger hair (fiberglass strand/resin & body filter mix)...sand, skim filler/ sand and wet sand till perfect surface finish, then prime whole or repaired areas and wet sand again...then ready for paint.

Hope that helps some.

This will not hold without later coming apart. Unless you actually drill holes and fill with resin to act as a stud to hold from the outer exterior and the inner portion of the lip this will fail. Polyurethane and fiberglass do not mix adhering to each other for a solution of fix.
 
It can be repaired but in the end you will wish you bought a new one.

You need to get the proper stuff for repairing urethane with - a semi-rigid bumper repair compound, there are many out there, I like the fusor stuff but have also used duramix too - they are expensive and results are mixed so like I said, bythe time you mess around just buy a new one.

+1 agreed
 
It can be repaired but in the end you will wish you bought a new one.

You need to get the proper stuff for repairing urethane with - a semi-rigid bumper repair compound, there are many out there, I like the fusor stuff but have also used duramix too - they are expensive and results are mixed so like I said, bythe time you mess around just buy a new one.

This^^^

A front lip/spoiler has too much flex and wear and tear and I feel it will end up coming back down the road and haunting you. May be worth repairing and selling, but for my own car I'd just purchase a new one and be done with it :cool:
 
flat out,,,buy a new one,,,our cars go thru lips,,if u repair it u will see small imperfectins and it will eat u up,,,practice repairing the old one and see how good u are,,,if it comes out good then u will have two,,,and,trust me,,,u will use it !
 
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