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Caliper Mounting bolts...sucks!

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I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions on taking these off?...I'm in the process of replacing the wheel bearing on the passenger side rear wheel. It seems like Superman torqued down the stupid caliper mounting bolts!!..I don't have access to an impact gun, just the basic tools, and a breaker bar.

Also do I have to release the e-brake to remove this?..is it putting pressure by squeezing the pads together making it more difficult?...I have the car jacked up only on the rear wheel..not both, and i'm reluctant to release the brake for safety.


One more...Do I have to take off the brake line?!..I really don't want bleed the system, Is there enough room to get the rotor out just by moving the caliper assembly?

Also...do you know what exact size socket the axle bolt is?...seems to be a 34mm.


Thanks Prime, Mark
 
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Mark,

the mounting bracket bolts for the caliper are on at 80 ft.lbs. Get the car higher and add a cheater pipe to your breaker bar. If they have never been off, they are just tough. These are in a awkward spot so make sure you are turning in the right direction. I know that may sound stupid, but it has happened:).

The caliper may be a little snug on the rotor but never had a problem gfetting them off. You will need to remove the plastic cover, then remove the mounting bracket for the brake line in the rear of the knuckle, ALL three bolts and take the bracket out. YOu will need to feed the line with its mounting tab through the hole to get enough clearance to remove the caliper from off it's mounting bracket. The e-brake canble and line can remain intact, without removing either from the caliper. You NEED to release the e-brake, it is not an option, so make it safe.

Your challange will be the little phillips screws holding the rotor on if they are still there. You will need either an impact screwdriver or a dremel or drill to drill them out.

The axle nut is 36mm. If you are doing this by hand, you need a REALLY long pipe. I recommend you loosen it with the car on the ground, with the wheel on if youhave wheels that allow access to it when they are mounted. Stock 16" are good for this:).

BTW, If you are changing a bearing you need to remove the entire axle shaft from the hub, essentially remove it from the car.

HTH,
LarryB
 
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Larry Bastanza said:
Mark,

the mounting bracket bolts for the caliper are on at 80 ft.lbs. Get the car higher and add a cheater pipe to your breaker bar. If they have never been off, they are just tough. These are in a awkward spot so make sure you are turning in the right direction. I know that may sound stupid, but it has happened:).

The caliper may be a little snug on the rotor but never had a problem gfetting them off. You will need to remove the plastic cover, then remove the mounting bracket for the brake line in the rear of the knuckle, ALL three bolts and take the bracket out. YOu will need to feed the line with its mounting tab through the hole to get enough clearance to remove the caliper from off it's mounting bracket. The e-brake canble and line can remain intact, without removing either from the caliper. You NEED to release the e-brake, it is not an option, so make it safe.

Your challange will be the little phillips screws holding the rotor on if they are still there. You will need either an impact screwdriver or a dremel or drill to drill them out.

The axle nut is 36mm. If you are doing this by hand, you need a REALLY long pipe. I recommend you loosen it with the car on the ground, with the wheel on if youhave wheels that allow access to it when they are mounted. Stock 16" are good for this:).

BTW, If you are changing a bearing you need to remove the entire axle shaft from the hub, essentially remove it from the car.

HTH,
LarryB

I had a 4ft long pipe and still broke two breaking bars :redface:

Get an impact gun or borrow one from an automotive store...it will be easier this way :smile: I was able to borrow one from Autozone

OBTW, have you looked at the service manual to see what needs to be done? Bolt sizes and torques are located in there. You can d/l it from the FAQ section....just trying to help :)
 
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I have to agree with Larry. The first time I removed my calipers it was a real sonofabitch!!! I ended up putting a one foot piece of pipe on the end of my wrench and smacked it a few times with a heavy hammer. This technique, along with a few good curse words yelled at the bolts worked great. :biggrin:
 
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Time for an impact wrench, that is just about all there is to it.

You break one thing or dent something, you will have paid for the cost of the wrench and a small compressor.

Get the highest torque impact wrench you can afford. IR and Sears work just fine.

If not...

You can use an extra combination wrench to extend the leverage...I never seem to have the right size pipes around.

1. Put box end of wrench on bolt.
2. Put box end of other slightly larger wrench over the open end of the other wrench.
3. Hard to explain w/o pictures, but you can fit them together to form a lever or "cheater bar".
4. You have to pay attention to the alignment of the wrenches. But the neat thing about this is that it is diffucult to damage anything.

Drew
 
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If you're having trouble with the caliper bolts, give up right now, as you'll NEVER get the main wheel hub nut (36mm) off without proper equipment (pneumatic impact wrench).
 
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Make sure you re-torque the axle nut using a torque wrench (or torque stick on an impact wrench) that goes high enough. It's a lot of torque. And make sure you stake it properly; see the topic here on "loose axle nuts".
 
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everything is removed...all covers and brackets.


I'll jack the car up higher....I did combine two wrenches,..for extra torque but not luck. I'll see I can find a large enough pipe to slide the wrench in, for this project I shouldn't have to buy impact tools...The car is a 91, so I expected "some" difficulty but shit, the mounting bolts have never been removed so its on there.



Thanks for the Info!
 
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I just changed my this weekend and yes they are really tight to the point were I thought they were welded on but just use the braker bar .
 
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when I'm dealing with a tuff bolts/nuts, I always soak it in PB BLASTER the night before.... :biggrin:
 
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djskyy said:
when I'm dealing with a tuff bolts/nuts, I always soak it in PB BLASTER the night before.... :biggrin:

Very true. I use WD 40 and I find using a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and socket helps a lot on big stubborn bolts or nuts.
 
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djskyy said:
when I'm dealing with a tuff bolts/nuts, I always soak it in PB BLASTER the night before.... :biggrin:



I did PB blast it the night before, but anyways thanks prime!...the new wheel bearing is in...runs much smoother now.
 
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