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Clutch shudder - flywheel?

Joined
4 August 2015
Messages
28
Hi guys

My clutch have a little shudder when I engage it. Friction plates was replaced 5000 miles ago. Engaging near idle speeds there is no shudder and its only when starting from a stand still. Can it be the flywheel?

- Niels
 
if its oem that may be normal try not to feather throttle and clutch too much
 
It's normal with the dual friction disk clutch. Used or new...no difference. Embrace it.
 
Very surprised to hear that this is normal... Car is 1994 so it is a dual-plate. Thanks a bunch - you just saved me the cost of a new flywheel :D
 
if its oem that may be normal try not to feather throttle and clutch too much

yes,let it out quickly and positively, don't spend too much time getting going
 
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Some shudder is normal due to the dual disc clutch configuration from what I've read - but mine has some strong shudder as I slip and engage the clutch which I mentioned to my mechanic (Jim Russell, local NSX deity).

He said that can usually be fixed by "re-centering" the motor mounts, that if they're centered correctly it diminishes / eliminates the shudder quite a bit. He's going to do this "fix" while he's in there installing the new timing belt, I'll report back once it's done to see if the shudder is reduced or eliminated.
 
update: got my car back from jim russell and i'm happy the report the shuddering is gone! i can still feel the shudder slightly if I *really* try, but even then it feels damped and doesn't shake the car like it used to, and goes away quickly. I have to really try to feel it and feather the clutch just right - in everyday casual driving it never comes up anymore and feels like a brand new clutch.
 
update: got my car back from jim russell and i'm happy the report the shuddering is gone! i can still feel the shudder slightly if I *really* try, but even then it feels damped and doesn't shake the car like it used to, and goes away quickly. I have to really try to feel it and feather the clutch just right - in everyday casual driving it never comes up anymore and feels like a brand new clutch.

That is great news! Unfortunately I just had the timing belt done :/
 
He said that can usually be fixed by "re-centering" the motor mounts, that if they're centered correctly it diminishes / eliminates the shudder quite a bit. He's going to do this "fix" while he's in there installing the new timing belt, I'll report back once it's done to see if the shudder is reduced or eliminated.

Now I am curious. How do you re center the motor mounts and what does he mean by re centering? I don't see any mechanism for adjusting the position of the motor mounts, either the engine to the mount of the mount to the body. The service manual sets out the order in which the mounts are reinstalled when reinstalling the engine; but, makes no mention of adjustments or alignment of the mounts.
 
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Now I am curious. How do you re center the motor mounts and what does he mean by re centering? I don't see any mechanism for adjusting the position of the motor mounts, either the engine to the mount of the mount to the body. The service manual sets out the order in which the mounts are reinstalled when reinstalling the engine; but, makes no mention of adjustments or alignment of the mounts.

I'm just guessing here, as I'm paraphrasing what the mechanic told me, but it sounded like he's actually re-seating the motor into the existing mounts..?
 
I did this recently, and it's not too bad.

Jack/hoist the Motor/Trans Assembly such that its applying very little force. It is here for safety, initially.

Loosen the center bolt of each motor + transmission mount, but not too much.

You can use the rear transmission mount as the visual guide; you want the bolt to be centered in that hole. In my experience, this one is key for clutch shudder reduction, and reduced engine vibe from harder motor mounts (implying it centered the other mounts pretty well at the same time.)

You then can carefully jack/hoist the Motor/Trans assembly, either lowering or raising it slightly to be more centered on the easily-viewed rear mount.

[I have heard of folks starting the engine to let it idle and self-center... can't speak for that method myself.]

After using your centering method, just tighten up the center bolts again, then release the jack/hoist.
 
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