Clutch Slave cylinder/master cylinder rebuild kits?

[Mac Attack]

I just need to bleed the system and then I'll report back. Maybe I can find time to sneak in the garage tomorrow.

Some of the stampings were different compared to what I removed, but it looked very close. The length was correct out of the box.

I broke my made-in-USA Craftsman flare wrench trying to remove the flare nut from the distribution block going to the rear of the car. Sprayed some PB Blaster on the fittings overnight and then they let loose. Hope it reseals OK after it's bled and I apply pressure to it.... It shouldn't have been that tight!

Well, there is a slight leak on the flare connection at the new MC that is proving difficult to isolate. I don't like tightening these flare connections much more than I have already, but I'm going to have to crank down on it a bit more I guess.

Also, it's been a PITA to bleed it. I got it close enough to drive around the neighborhood and test out my new suspension settings, but there's still air in the system. I bought the vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and some more fluid to give it another try....

 

[Old Guy]

Well, there is a slight leak on the flare connection at the new MC that is proving difficult to isolate. I don't like tightening these flare connections much more than I have already, but I'm going to have to crank down on it a bit more I guess.

The not wanting to crank down on the fitting is probably a good thing. Its not to hard to damage the flare on a line - small nick on either surface and they drool forever. Been there done that with a vintage car restoration. I found that no amount of tightening will make the weeping go away - at least with the higher pressures on a brake system. As long as the flare on the tube is not cracked or materially damaged, I have had excellent results using copper flare washers / gaskets to seal up brake system flares. The copper is soft and like a crush washer easily deforms to fill in any irregularities in the face of the flare (on either side). With the common flares used on older North American and European cars, you can get a package of 25 of the suitable flare washers in SAE or JIC sizes for about $5.

The NSX will be metric and the flare profiles are probably different (never had to do this on a Japanese vehicle). It may be harder / impossible to find washers/gaskets in the correct size. I would try a hydraulics or air conditioning specialist to see if they have metric flare washers. Flare washers seem to be more common in those industries. Automotive brake shops don't seem to like them, they just seem to use the replace option. Perhaps they believe there is a liability issue. If you have access to the correct profile flaring tool, it is relatively easy to make your own flare washers - there are at least 2 or 3 Utube videos showing how to do this. It may be difficult finding a suitable OD copper washer to act as the blank for creating the metric flare. I suggest using the closest SAE / JIS size washer and ' re profiling' it in the metric flare tool. Just remember to re anneal the copper after the re profiling to remove work hardening.

 

[Mac Attack]

The not wanting to crank down on the fitting is probably a good thing. Its not to hard to damage the flare on a line - small nick on either surface and they drool forever. Been there done that with a vintage car restoration. I found that no amount of tightening will make the weeping go away - at least with the higher pressures on a brake system. As long as the flare on the tube is not cracked or materially damaged, I have had excellent results using copper flare washers / gaskets to seal up brake system flares. The copper is soft and like a crush washer easily deforms to fill in any irregularities in the face of the flare (on either side). With the common flares used on older North American and European cars, you can get a package of 25 of the suitable flare washers in SAE or JIC sizes for about $5.

The NSX will be metric and the flare profiles are probably different (never had to do this on a Japanese vehicle). It may be harder / impossible to find washers/gaskets in the correct size. I would try a hydraulics or air conditioning specialist to see if they have metric flare washers. Flare washers seem to be more common in those industries. Automotive brake shops don't seem to like them, they just seem to use the replace option. Perhaps they believe there is a liability issue. If you have access to the correct profile flaring tool, it is relatively easy to make your own flare washers - there are at least 2 or 3 Utube videos showing how to do this. It may be difficult finding a suitable OD copper washer to act as the blank for creating the metric flare. I suggest using the closest SAE / JIS size washer and ' re profiling' it in the metric flare tool. Just remember to re anneal the copper after the re profiling to remove work hardening.

Yeah, when I removed the clutch line from the old MC to the distribution block, I examined the seating areas and they looked OK. I was suspicious of them because of the torque needed to remove the fittings. I had an Acura dealer replace the clutch hydraulics when I bought it 15 years ago, and they probably ran into the same problem I am now....

Thanks for the info on the seals. I actually have a variety of small copper SECO seals for my 4AN brake fittings, and aluminum SECO seals for my 6AN fuel and 12AN oil fittings. Never had to use them yet. I like the 37 degree AN fittings much better, and is why I've converted everything except for the clutch hydraulics and the brake fittings at the calipers.

Let me crank on it just a little more :wink: , and if that doesn't work I'll probably just flare my own replacement line. It looks like the standard 45 degree double flare, and I have plenty of tubing.

 

[Old Guy]

That works as long as the nick is on the tube flare and not on the matching surface in the MC. The MC being new you would expect it to be good; but........

You most have a hoist to be so relaxed about replacing the clutch line. Being hoistless, just the thought of replacing any of the hard lines makes my back hurt.

 

[Mac Attack]

Another 1/8 turn did it. So happy since I didn't want to go through and replace this with an OEM Acura master. Seems to work fine.

 

[nis350]

Just curious if this would deform the fitting since you have to tighten it so much? The reason I asked is whether it will leak if you replace it with an OEM in the future.

Another 1/8 turn did it. So happy since I didn't want to go through and replace this with an OEM Acura master. Seems to work fine.

 

[MotorMouth93]

Just curious if this would deform the fitting since you have to tighten it so much? The reason I asked is whether it will leak if you replace it with an OEM in the future.

Centric sources the parts from the same companies - Nissin and Adler - that Honda does. Honda doesn't make the parts, Nissin and Adler do, Nissin and Adler then sell them to Honda, who then marks up the price and sells them as OEM. Centric also buys them from Nissin and Adler, but they don't mark them up as much. OEM fit will be identical to Centric since they come from the same place.

Honda doesn't make all the parts they sell, I've had stuff come from the dealer in Honda packaging that clearly says "Made In Japan" but then the sticker on the part itself says made in China. (This was on new OEM NSX trunk struts.)

If you're really worried about it, go ahead and spend 2-3x as much at the dealer.

 

[drew]

FYI, Honda sells rebuild kits for both the clutch master and slave cylinders.

Master: Piston Cup 46926-SF1-003 about $26. This part is also used in Accords, Civics, Integras.
Slave: Cup-A 46934-SD4-901 $2, Cup-B 46933-SL0-003 $5, which is also used in the S2K, Legend.

It matters to somebody like me that live in remote parts of the world where importing stuff is extremely expensive, weight and size matters. For example, my local Honda dealer wants NZ$62.99 for High Temp Urea Grease and doesn't stock it, that sells for $9 in the States. Crazy

 

[dirtbag]

FYI, Honda sells rebuild kits for both the clutch master and slave cylinders.

Master: Piston Cup 46926-SF1-003 about $26. This part is also used in Accords, Civics, Integras.
Slave: Cup-A 46934-SD4-901 $2, Cup-B 46933-SL0-003 $5, which is also used in the S2K, Legend.

It matters to somebody like me that live in remote parts of the world where importing stuff is extremely expensive, weight and size matters. For example, my local Honda dealer wants NZ$62.99 for High Temp Urea Grease and doesn't stock it, that sells for $9 in the States. Crazy

Thanks for the part numbers. I'll have to stock up on some so I can rebuild this unit and have it on standby. The USA is backwards when it comes to international shipping. Taxpayers subsidize e-packet deliveries from China to USA, and China to many other countries - but absolutely refuses to subsidize domestic shipping internally or outbound international. It creates a very unfair trade imbalance for people who run small businesses such as myself. It costs me more to ship my products from my house to a neighbor across the street, than a knockoff/clone part from China to across the street , and in most cases it takes the same amount of time to deliver.

But yeah, the lowest price I can ship anything to NZ is $24 USD, and the next step up is about $37 with tracking. Meanwhile the clone of the same product from China costs $0.34 to ship to the states (subsidize by the American taxpayer and Chinese government). We can thank USPS, China, ebay, Obama administration, Congress, and a few other large online retailers who had their hands in the trilateral trade legislation, which they thought it was a great idea to boost online sales - ultimately all it did was squash competition from small businesses and move a lot of things to China. It's one main reason why we have just a couple online retail giants today.

Luckily for you there may be a trick. If you can find the same (hopefully legitimate) parts shipped from China, you too can have it delivered via e-packet to NZ at a very deep discount. Many businesses in USA have given up and moved shipping operations to China to take advantage of this loophole. There's got to be a Honda/Acura parts dealer located in Taiwan I'd think.