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DIY Clutch Replacement Issue!

17 December 2015
Hey everyone,

The clutch in my 92 with 160k recently began slipping in 4-5th gear. It was no surprise the throw out bearing was always noisy, the car came with no record of the clutch ever being done and lastly the clutch would chatter once in a while. Being on a tight budget I had a clutch shop resurface the stock dual disk flywheel and pressure plate as well as provide new disks. Upon inspection everything seemed well done, the disks mic'd within stock spec. Installed a new pilot, new throw out, aligned and torqued everything to spec, reinstalled the transmission etc...

Now the problems begin:

Installing the slave into the dust cover I missed the arm and so when I depressed the clutch it blew out the cylinder, dumb mistake. Looking at it, decided to just replace since it looked worse for wear and now I had to bleed the system anyway. So I order a replacement and install, I do a one man bleed job pumping the pedal and keeping it depressed while cracking the bleeder over and over until it feels tight again. The car still being in the air I start it up, put it into 1st fine, into 2nd fine, into 3rd fine until I say okay job well done let me get it off jack stands. Once back on the ground I can no longer get the car into gear. It feels like the clutch isn't disengaging enough. Applying force to the shifter and the RPM will dip which to me confirms that.

So figured some air freed up and I decide to bleed, for hours, no change. Then I bought a generic mityvac locally and bled for hours, no change.

I thought maybe the new slave blew out the master, I mean I had clutch function so why wont it come back? Replace the master, grav bleed, then vac bleed then pump bleed etc.. nothing. Clutch will become somewhat firm and looking at the arm I get about an inch of throw. Today I tried the old slave just for giggles and bled the system for a good hour with a bud doing the bleeder open pedal down bleeder closed pedal up routine. The pedal got firm but again no change in throw or condition.

Here is a pic of max throw with either slave.

Today I also took vids. One is of the throw out bearing with the slave disconnected, it seems to me to be in position correctly.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/u5q8ySVoIck" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

The 2nd vid is what I believe to be way too much slop. According to the FSM its NAX .59 free play. I have within that much (barely) on the initial movement but another inch before the clutch begins to resist. Now is this an adjustment issue or is there still air trapped somewhere? I haven't adjusted per the fsm yet because reading some past posts by Larry if the clutch bleeds further post adjust it can become too tight.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8ispwhEtzTs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

Here is another view where you can see the sub .59 play at the actual pedal but way more before the clutch begins to engage.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XuWhKIzmKcM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

I would greatly appreciate any advice here because I'm thoroughly annoyed. I have done so much bleeding, probably gallons, with grav, a friend, vac, speed bleeder etc... The fluid is so solid and clear at this point if there's air I don't know how its going to come out.

Could it be something internal? the vid shows what I believe is the throw out installed correctly, there is no odd noises while running. The fork is clicked into place and the throw is smooth.

Could it have been air originally then once I replaced the master too it became an adjustment issue as well? Its seems like it, I mean the whole 1st half of the pedal is useless then as its engaging firm you bottom out into the floor.

Also worth noting is the PO has used a misshapen bolt instead of the proper pin to mate the clutch and pedal. I replaced it with the pin from Honda. So literally everything moving part besides the pedal itself has been replaced or changed somehow.

Thank you those who read through this book. I don't often post for advice so when I'm that stuck I need to there is usually a story :-/. Any constructive advice is very very welcome.
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I really know close to zip about the original dual disk clutch (I have the later mungo dual mass thingy). The only thing that sticks in my mind is hearing tales that if you did not go through the clutch initialization procedure (or do it correctly) the clutch will fail to disengage. Perhaps your problem is not in the hydraulics?
Oh man I totally dropped the ball and did NONE of that!!!!! I read through the FSM prior to the swap and I guess I missed that section!

This is it?

Would failure to complete this cause my issue? I guess even if so I need to adjust the pedal too.

Thank you for your response and don't sell yourself short you seem to know something for sure! lol
The only thing I recall reading is that failure to initialize the clutch can or will prevent the clutch from releasing. Whether that means the fork can't move or what I don't know. I have the 1998 and later service manual, so I don't even know what initializing really is (other than its something I don't have to worry about:smile:).

The other item would be the clutch damper. I am not exactly sure what the damper consists of. I had assumed that it was a pressurized reservoir of some kind so perhaps if it got damaged, it is messing up the hydraulics. In my manual I can find the diagram for the clutch hydraulics; but, I can't find any description of the damper operation or diagnosis of a defective damper.
I completely agree this is a dual plate clutch not initalized. Everything will feel and act fine, but the midplate does not center properly and keeps dragging on the disks. It is not a difficult procedure. All you need to do is take the plate by the flywheel (engine side) off the trans, initilaize the three mid-plate sliders and you should be good to go. if you have any questions post here, or PM me.

Also you will need a small bolt to initalize the clutch. Hint: You can use one of the small black bolts that hold the fuel injection covers on. Been there, done that:)........

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