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DIY: Header Install
- Thread starter VBNSX
- Start date
Veleno said:
When I ordered the straight pipe, it came with nuts and bolts. Other than than you can just go to a metric bolt place and get a high grade nut/bolt.
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92NSX said:Are the bolts that hold Rod B supposed to be impossible to remove? I have a 1/2" air rathcet run by 150psi compressor and I couldn't get it to budge.
Do you mean the bolts that hold the Rod "B" to the body or to the rear beam? The body side (two top ones) can be tough, but they are only torqued at 43 ft.lbs, not too tight.
You mention air "ratchet". That is useless for this
. You need an impact "gun", or remove them with a good hand tool. I know this is a tight spot. Typically I get the cat out of the way and go in with a 1/2 extension and my impact gun, which takes only a few seconds to bust them loose.HTH,
LarryB
If you want to go seriously rustless, you want stainless steel fasteners. Here's a link to a great online supply shop for all your nut and bolt needs.
http://www.boltdepot.com
Jeff
http://www.boltdepot.com
Jeff
How do they compare to the OEM sensors?
Is it just a good idea to change both sensors when adding headers? Mine are working now so I'm not sure if I need to change them or not. However, I don't want to reinstall the old one only to have them fail and I have to wait up to 2 weeks for new ones to get here.
Which brand did you get out of the ones offered?
Is it just a good idea to change both sensors when adding headers? Mine are working now so I'm not sure if I need to change them or not. However, I don't want to reinstall the old one only to have them fail and I have to wait up to 2 weeks for new ones to get here.
Which brand did you get out of the ones offered?
Veleno said:
I have always used them for o2 sensors... I bought the Walker OE. I haven't had any issues with them before and honestly I replaced the rear bank sometime last year so it was only a matter of time before the front were to fail. So I figured it'd be a good idea to replace it.
Depending on the header you purchased, most headers actually place the o2 bung in a location that would make replacement of the sensors in a really easy spot. I say this just in case you were looking to save a bit.
x
www.sparkplugs.com has the OEM sensors for about $50 for NA1 cars.
Daedalus said:
yeah... the universal application is the only one i'm not comfortable with... oxygensensors.com has them too for around the same price but i'm just not comfortable with them.. I have no idea why.. it may be perfectly fine for all i know but.. eh..
x
Depends on your level of tuning. I've always used widebands for tuning purposes only.
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VBNSX said:yeah... the universal application is the only one i'm not comfortable with... oxygensensors.com has them too for around the same price but i'm just not comfortable with them.. I have no idea why.. it may be perfectly fine for all i know but.. eh..
x
?? The question is why even bother spending more on a universal when OEMs are even cheaper?
There's not much value of having a wideband O2 unless you're going with a programmable ECU. It would actually be very dangerous to feed a wideband output into the stock ECU, as the ECU would try to lean out the mixture as much as it possibly could. You could run a wideband just to see how the engine is really running, but you couldn't remove the stock O2, so you would have to install a 2nd bung and plug it when you were done.
just an fyi... sometimes this stuff just freezes...
I did another install and i have never had this happened to me.. on any o2 I have ever worked on:
the o2 sensor was frozen on so tight that it actually split in half....
just a note to those diy guys... expect the unexpected..
:smile:
x
I did another install and i have never had this happened to me.. on any o2 I have ever worked on:
the o2 sensor was frozen on so tight that it actually split in half....
just a note to those diy guys... expect the unexpected..
:smile:
x
I am unsure if that was your car or a friend's or customer's. If that were my car, and I knew I was going to be doing a header install, my first trip would be to the car wash with a bottle of simple green and a couple of jack stands and a jack to clean the whole engine transmission and undercarriage first to make the job more fun. I like them clean and they photograph better too. Aside from that, nice pictures and attention to detail. Thank you.
Cairo94507 said:
I don't think that is such agreat idea, considering that it can be harmful to aluminiun
Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Id like to thank you guys for the excellent writeups! i finished my install this afternoon. pretty proud of myself too, none of the head studs backed out and i didnt need to pull the ac! just need to hang the exhaust and mount the cats and its test drive/videos time
oh, id also like to thank larry b specifically for all his help with me trying to ressurect this beast
oh, id also like to thank larry b specifically for all his help with me trying to ressurect this beast
Bumping this up because I'm finally installing my cantrell headers, test pipes, and gtlw exhaust... or trying to anyways. So far I've stripped 2 bolts, haha
Stephen
Stephen
...
Here's an updated link to the header install article.
http://www.tuckerbud.com/Track/Headers/DIYHeaders.doc
http://www.tuckerbud.com/Track/Headers/DIYHeaders.doc
huh?
